Unsaturated fatty acid-enriched extract from Hippophae rhamnoides seed reduces skin dryness through up-regulating aquaporins 3 and hyaluronan synthetases 2 expressions

Association of enzymatic and optimized ultrasound-assisted aqueous extraction of flavonoid glycosides from dried Hippophae rhamnoides L. (Sea Buckthorn) berries

The main purpose of the present study was to determine the effect of associating an optimized ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) protocol with enzyme-assisted extraction (EAE) in aqueous media, using the dried berries of Hippophae rhamnoides L. (sea buckthorn) as plant material. A specialized software was used for the determination of potential optimal extraction parameters, leading to the development of four optimized extracts with different characteristics (UAE ± EAE). For these extracts, buffered or non-buffered solutions have been used, with the aim to determine the influence of adjustable pH on extractability. As enzymatic solution, a pectinase, cellulase, and hemicellulase mix (2:1:1) has been applied, acting as pre-treatment for the optimized protocol. The highest extractive yields have been identified for non-buffered extracts, and the E-UAE combination obtained extracts with the highest overall in vitro antioxidant activity. The HPLC-MSn analysis demonstrated a rich composition in different types of isorhamnetin-O-glycosides, as well as some quercetin-O-glycosides, showing a high recovery of specific flavonol-type polyphenolic species. Moreover, we have tentatively identified two flavanols (i.e., catechin and epigallocatechin) and one flavone derivative (i.e., luteolin).

Benefits of topical natural ingredients in epidermal permeability barrier

Because of the crucial role of epidermal permeability barrier in regulation of cutaneous and extracutaneous functions, great efforts have been made to identify and develop the regimens that can improve epidermal permeability barrier function. Studies have demonstrated that oral administration of natural ingredients can improve epidermal permeability barrier in various skin conditions, including inflammatory dermatoses and UV-irradiation. Moreover, topical applications of some natural ingredients can also accelerate the repair of epidermal permeability barrier after acute barrier disruption and lower transepidermal water loss in the intact skin. Natural ingredient-induced improvements in epidermal permeability barrier function can be attributable to upregulation of keratinocyte differentiation, lipid production, antioxidant, hyaluronic acid production, expression of aquaporin 3 and sodium-hydrogen exchanger 1. In this review, we summarize the benefits of topical natural ingredients in epidermal permeability barrier in normal skin with or without acute barrier disruption and the underlying mechanisms.

Rosa gallica and its active compound, cyanidin-3,5-O-diglucoside, improve skin hydration via the GLK signaling pathway

Rosa gallica has been previously reported to display anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidative, and anti-skin wrinkle activities. However, the effect of Rosa gallica on skin hydration and its active components are largely unknown. Herein, we aimed to investigate the skin hydration effect of rose petal extract (RPE) in humans and elucidate the underlying molecular mechanism. A double-blinded clinical study was performed to investigate the effect of RPE on skin hydration. Stratum corneum moisture analysis demonstrated that RPE treatment significantly improved hydration levels in human skin. Furthermore, HAS2 and hyaluronic acid levels were notably increased by RPE in keratinocytes and 3D human skin equivalent model. By comparing the modulatory effect on HAS2 expression, cyanidin-3,5-O-diglucoside (CDG) was identified as the most potent compound in RPE likely responsible for skin hydration. The kinase activity of GLK, an upstream regulator of MAPK signaling, was increased by CDG in a dose-dependent manner. Importantly, silencing GLK reversed CDG-mediated HAS2 upregulation, further supporting the involvement of GLK in the CDG-mediated effects. Binding of CDG to GLK was confirmed by pull-down assay and computer modeling. These findings suggest that RPE and its active component CDG increases skin hydration by upregulating HAS2 expression through modulating the GLK-MAP2K-MAPK signaling pathway.

Effect of Evening Primrose Oil Supplementation on Selected Parameters of Skin Condition in a Group of Patients Treated with Isotretinoin-A Randomized Double-Blind Trial

Background: Retinoids, which include isotretinoin, reduce sebum levels, the degree of epidermal wetness (CORN) and cause an increase in transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Weight gain has also been observed in isotretinoin-treated patients. An agent that can reduce the severity of isotretinoin side effects is evening primrose oil (Oenothera paradoxa). The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effect of evening primrose oil supplementation in patients with acne vulgaris treated with isotretinoin on skin hydration status (CORN), transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin oiliness (sebum) and changes in body weight and BMI. Methods: Patients diagnosed with acne were assigned to the isotretinoin-treated group (n = 25) or the isotretinoin and evening primrose oil-treated group (n = 25). The intervention lasted 9 months. CORN (with a corneometer), TEWL (with a tewameter) and sebum (with a sebumeter) were assessed twice, as well as body weight and BMI (Tanita MC-780). Results: The isotretinoin-treated group showed statistically significant reductions in CORN (p = 0.015), TEWL (p = 0.004) and sebum (p < 0.001) after the intervention. In the group treated with isotretinoin and evening primrose oil, TEWL and sebum levels also decreased significantly (p < 0.05), while CORN levels increased from 42.0 ± 9.70 to 50.9 ± 10.4 (p = 0.017). A significant decrease in body weight (p < 0.001) and BMI (p < 0.001) was observed in both groups after 9 months of intervention. Conclusions: During isotretinoin treatment, supplementation with evening primrose oil increased skin hydration. However, there were no differences between groups in transepidermal water loss, skin oiliness, weight loss and BMI.

Elevation of Hyaluronan Synthase by Magnesium Supplementation Mediated through the Activation of GSK3 and CREB in Human Keratinocyte-Derived HaCaT Cells

Skin barrier damage is present in the patients with hereditary disorders of the magnesium channel, but the molecular mechanism has not been fully understood. We found that the expressions of hyaluronan synthase (HAS), HAS2 and HAS3 are influenced by MgCl2 concentration in human keratinocyte-derived HaCaT cells. The exposure of cells to a high concentration (5.8 mM) of MgCl2 induced the elevation of HAS2/3 expression, which was inhibited by mRNA knockdown of nonimprinted in Prader-Willi/Angelman syndrome-like domain containing 4 (NIPAL4). Similarly, the content of hyaluronic acid (HA) was changed according to MgCl2 concentration and the expression of NIPAL4. The MgCl2 supplementation increased the reporter activities of HAS2/3, which were inhibited by NIPAL4 knockdown, indicating that the expressions of HAS2/3 are up-regulated at the transcriptional level. The reporter activities and mRNA levels of HAS2/3, and the production of HA were inhibited by CHIR-99021, a glycogen synthase kinase-3 (GSK3) inhibitor, and naphthol AS-E, a cyclic AMP-response element binding protein (CREB) inhibitor. Furthermore, the mutation in putative CREB-binding sites of promoter region in HAS2/3 genes inhibited the MgCl2 supplementation-induced elevation of promoter activity. Our results indicate that the expressions of HAS2/3 are up-regulated by MgCl2 supplementation in HaCaT cells mediated through the activation of GSK3 and CREB. Magnesium may play a pivotal role in maintaining the skin barrier function and magnesium supplementation may be useful to enhance moisturization and wound repair in the skin.

A Fatty Acid Fraction Purified From Sea Buckthorn Seed Oil Has Regenerative Properties on Normal Skin Cells

In recent years, natural product's research gained momentum, fueled by technological advancement and open availability of research data. To date, sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides L. [Elaeagnaceae]) plant parts, especially berries, are well characterized and repeatedly tested for antioxidant activity and regenerative properties, in various cell types and tissues. However, fatty acids (FA) have been less investigated in term of biological effects, although, they are important bioactive components of the sea buckthorn fruit and oil. The aim of our work was to determine whether sea buckthorn seed oil is a suitable source of FA with regenerative properties on normal skin cells. Using high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) and liquid chromatography – mass spectrometry (LC-MS), we purified and characterized four fractions enriched in saturated (palmitic) and non-saturated (linoleic, alfa-linolenic, oleic) FA, which were tested for cytotoxicity, cytokine and growth factor production, and regenerative effect on normal keratinocytes and skin fibroblasts. Evidence is presented that the palmitic acid enriched fraction was a suitable sea buckthorn seed oil derived product with cell proliferation properties on both skin cell types.

To compare the effect of sea buckthorn and silver sulfadiazine dressing on period of wound healing in patients with second-degree burns: A randomized triple-blind clinical trial

Burn injuries can be associated with the incidence of disability and death, yet their management remains a costly difficult problem. We conducted this clinical trial to evaluate the period of wound healing with sea buckthorn dressings for the second-degree burns and compare the results with 1% silver sulfadiazine (SSD) dressings. This randomized triple-blind clinical trial was conducted in a hospital in Isfahan, Iran. Fifty-five patients suffering second-degree burns were recruited through convenient sampling and randomly divided into two groups and treated with either sea buckthorn cream or 1% SSD. Wound dressings were done until complete wound healing was attained. The process of healing burns was monitored using the Bates-Jensen Wound Assessment Tool; complete healing was determined by using the standard burn healing checklist. It was deduced that the period of healing second-degree burns in the group treated with sea buckthorn cream was shorter than the group treated with 1% SSD (p < 0.001). The results demonstrated the greater clinical efficacy of sea buckthorn cream over 1% SSD for healing second-degree burns. It was concluded that using sea buckthorn dressing by reducing the period of wound healing can shorten the course of treatment of second-degree burns as well as reduce the burden of care in health care services.

Unsaturated fatty acid-enriched extract from Hippophae rhamnoides seed reduces skin dryness through up-regulating aquaporins 3 and hyaluronan synthetases 2 expressions

Background

Seed oil of sea buckthorn (SBT) is well known to contain high amount of polyunsaturated fatty acid (PUFA), and PUFA is generally acknowledged to promote skin hydration by reducing trans‐epidermal water loss (TEWL).

Aims

The present study is aimed to investigate that skin hydration offered by SBT seed oil is whether through up‐regulating AQP3 or HAS2 expression.

Methods

MTT assay was performed to detect cytotoxicity of SBT seed oil, and then, PCR was carried out to explore whether SBT seed oil can increase AQP3 mRNA expression in normal human epidermis keratinocytes (NHEK) cells or not. Immunofluorescence (IF) and Western blot analysis were used to test the protein level expression of AQP3 and HAS2 influenced by SBT seed oil in NHEK cells or in reconstructed epidermis skin model.

Results

According to the result of MTT assay, all test concentration of SBT seed oil showed no cytotoxicity to cells. 10 μg/mL SBT seed oil treatment evidently increased AQP3 mRNA level compared to negative control (NC). IF and Western blot analysis results demonstrated that AQP3 and HAS2 protein levels in NHEK cells treated with 10 μg/mL SBT seed oil were much higher than that of NC. Finally, treatment with 10 μg/mL SBT seed oil substantially up‐regulated expression of AQP3 and HAS2 protein in reconstructed epidermis skin model in comparison to NC.

Conclusions

In summary, our study first proved that SBT seed oil can improve skin hydration through increasing AQP3 and HAS2 expressions.