Efficacy of a topical serum containing l-ascorbic acid, neohesperidin, pycnogenol, tocopherol and hyaluronic acid in relation to skin aging signs

Expert consensus on perioperative integrated skincare for noninvasive energy-based device aesthetic procedures in clinical practice in China

BACKGROUND

Noninvasive energy-based device (NI-EBD) aesthetic procedures has recently gained widespread usage for treating various skin conditions, enhancing skin texture and performing rejuvenation-related procedures. However, practically all NI-EBD procedures result in variable degrees of damage to the skin barrier, inducing pathological and physiological processes such as oxidative stress and inflammation, and only a small percentage of individuals possess the innate ability to restore it.

OBJECTIVE

To introduce the concept of integrated skincare and establish standardized operational procedures for perioperative integrated skincare, and furnish a theoretical basis for clinical diagnosis and treatment performed by professional medical aestheticians.

METHODS

The author leveraged domestic and international guidelines, clinical practice expertise and evidence-based research, adapting them to suit the specific circumstances in China.

RESULTS

The consensus were provided four parts, including concept and essence of integrated skincare, integrated skincare significance during the perioperative phase of NI-EBD procedures, active ingredients and functions of effective skincare products, standardized perioperative skincare procedure for NI-EBD procedures and precautions. For the standardized perioperative skincare procedure, four recommendations were listed according to different stages during NI-EBD procedures.

CONCLUSION

These recommendations create the 'Expert Consensus on Perioperative Integrated Skincare for Noninvasive Energy-Based Device Aesthetic Procedures in Clinical Practice in China'.

Ex vivo Evaluation of a Liposome-Mediated Antioxidant Delivery System on Markers of Skin Photoaging and Skin Penetration

Purpose

The topical application of antioxidants has been shown to augment the skin's innate antioxidant system and enhance photoprotection. A challenge of topical antioxidant formulation is stability and penetrability. The use of a targeted drug delivery system may improve the bioavailability and delivery of antioxidants. In this ex vivo study, we assessed the effects of the topical application of a liposome-encapsulated antioxidant complex versus a free antioxidant complex alone on skin photoaging parameters and penetrability in human skin explants.

Patients and Methods

Human organotypic skin explant cultures (hOSEC) were irradiated to mimic photoaging. The encapsulated antioxidant complex and free antioxidant complex were applied topically onto the irradiated hOSEC daily for 7 days. The two control groups were healthy untreated hOSEC and irradiated hOSEC. Photoprotective efficacy was measured with pro-inflammatory cytokine (IL-6 and IL-8) and matrix metalloproteinase 9 (MMP-9) secretion. Cell viability and metabolic activity were measured via resazurin assay. Tissue damage was evaluated via lactate dehydrogenase (LDH) cytotoxicity assay. Skin penetration of the encapsulated antioxidant complex was assessed via fluorescent dye and confocal microscopy.

Results

Compared to healthy skin, irradiated skin experienced increases in IL-6, IL-8 (p < 0.05), and MMP-9 (p < 0.05) secretion. After treatment with the encapsulated antioxidant complex, there was a 39.3% reduction in IL-6 secretion, 49.8% reduction in IL-8 (p < 0.05), and 38.5% reduction in MMP-9 (p < 0.05). After treatment with the free antioxidant complex, there were no significant differences in IL-6, IL-8, or MMP-9 secretion. Neither treatment group experienced significant LDH leakage or reductions in metabolic activity. Liposomes passed through the stratum corneum and into the epidermis.

Conclusion

The topical application of a liposome-encapsulated antioxidant complex containing ectoin, astaxanthin-rich microalgae Haematococcus pluvialis extract, and THDA improves penetrability and restored IL-6, IL-8, and MMP-9 levels in irradiated human skin explants, which was not seen in the comparator free antioxidant complex group.

Presentation of Meibomian Acini Compared to Dermal Papillae of the Eyelid Margin, Using Confocal Laser Scanning Microscopy and Corresponding Histology

BACKGROUND

Numerous studies have investigated the eyelid margin using confocal laser scanning microscopy (CLSM) and have presented morphological alterations of the examined structures, which were presumed to be Meibomian acini. However, recent data confirm that these structures are the cross-sections of dermal papillae of the dermoepidermal junction. This study aims to present the morphological appearance of Meibomian acini examined by confocal laser scanning microscopy in comparison to dermal papillae, and to reveal the corresponding patterns with specific histological sections.

METHODS AND MATERIAL

Twenty healthy patients were examined with a CLSM device in vivo at the marginal edge of the eyelid. Twenty-two samples of full-thickness eyelid wedges from 22 patients treated surgically with ectropion were collected, of which 11 freshly excised samples were imaged on the incision surface with CLSM ex vivo and 11 eyelids underwent conventional histological preparation. The represented structures on CLSM images were compared to Meibomian acini on histological sections in terms of area, longest and shortest diameter, as well as depth and density.

RESULTS

On in vivo CLSM images, Meibomian orifices, epidermal cells, and dermal connective tissue could be identified, the latter in a cross-sectional view of the dermal papillae surrounded by basal cells of the epidermis, forming reflective ring-like structures. All morphological parameters of these structures differed from Meibomian acini measured on histological sections. In contrast, the CLSM images of the incision surface showed acinar units with the same morphology as the Meibomian acini seen in the histological images and no statistically significant difference was found between the corresponding parameters.

CONCLUSION

The morphological appearance of Meibomian acini differs from the structures that were previously presumed as Meibomian glands on CLSM images. In vivo imaging of Meibomian glands by commonly used in vivo CLSM cannot be performed.

Antioxidant Metabolism Pathways in Vitamins, Polyphenols, and Selenium: Parallels and Divergences

Free radicals (FRs) are unstable molecules that cause reactive stress (RS), an imbalance between reactive oxygen and nitrogen species in the body and its ability to neutralize them. These species are generated by both internal and external factors and can damage cellular lipids, proteins, and DNA. Antioxidants prevent or slow down the oxidation process by interrupting the transfer of electrons between substances and reactive agents. This is particularly important at the cellular level because oxidation reactions lead to the formation of FR and contribute to various diseases. As we age, RS accumulates and leads to organ dysfunction and age-related disorders. Polyphenols; vitamins A, C, and E; and selenoproteins possess antioxidant properties and may have a role in preventing and treating certain human diseases associated with RS. In this review, we explore the current evidence on the potential benefits of dietary supplementation and investigate the intricate connection between SIRT1, a crucial regulator of aging and longevity; the transcription factor NRF2; and polyphenols, vitamins, and selenium. Finally, we discuss the positive effects of antioxidant molecules, such as reducing RS, and their potential in slowing down several diseases.

Photoprotective and Anti-Aging Properties of the Apical Frond Extracts from the Mediterranean Seaweed Ericaria amentacea

There is a growing interest in using brown algal extracts thanks to the bioactive substances they produce for adaptation to the marine benthic environment. We evaluated the anti-aging and photoprotective properties of two types of extracts (50%-ethanol and DMSO) obtained from different portions, i.e., apices and thalli, of the brown seaweed, Ericaria amentacea. The apices of this alga, which grow and develop reproductive structures during summer when solar radiation is at its peak, were postulated to be rich in antioxidant compounds. We determined the chemical composition and pharmacological effects of their extracts and compared them to the thallus-derived extracts. All the extracts contained polyphenols, flavonoids and antioxidants and showed significant biological activities. The hydroalcoholic apices extracts demonstrated the highest pharmacological potential, likely due to the higher content of meroditerpene molecular species. They blocked toxicity in UV-exposed HaCaT keratinocytes and L929 fibroblasts and abated the oxidative stress and the production of pro-inflammatory cytokines, typically released after sunburns. Furthermore, the extracts showed anti-tyrosinase and anti-hydrolytic skin enzyme activity, counteracting the collagenase and hyaluronidase degrading activities and possibly slowing down the formation of uneven pigmentation and wrinkles in aging skin. In conclusion, the E. amentacea apices derivatives constitute ideal components for counteracting sunburn symptoms and for cosmetic anti-aging lotions.

Microbial Hyaluronic Acid Production: A Review

Microbial production of hyaluronic acid (HA) is an area of research that has been gaining attention in recent years due to the increasing demand for this biopolymer for several industrial applications. Hyaluronic acid is a linear, non-sulfated glycosaminoglycan that is widely distributed in nature and is mainly composed of repeating units of N-acetylglucosamine and glucuronic acid. It has a wide and unique range of properties such as viscoelasticity, lubrication, and hydration, which makes it an attractive material for several industrial applications such as cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, and medical devices. This review presents and discusses the available fermentation strategies to produce hyaluronic acid.

Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) as a Cosmeceutical to Increase Dermal Collagen for Skin Antiaging Purposes: Emerging Combination Therapies

Ascorbic acid (AA) is an essential nutrient and has great potential as a cosmeceutical that protects the health and beauty of the skin. AA is expected to attenuate photoaging and the natural aging of the skin by reducing oxidative stress caused by external and internal factors and by promoting collagen gene expression and maturation. In this review, the biochemical basis of AA associated with collagen metabolism and clinical evidence of AA in increasing dermal collagen and inhibiting skin aging were discussed. In addition, we reviewed emerging strategies that have been developed to overcome the shortcomings of AA as a cosmeceutical and achieve maximum efficacy. Because extracellular matrix proteins, such as collagen, have unique amino acid compositions, their production in cells is influenced by the availability of specific amino acids. For example, glycine residues occupy 1/3 of amino acid residues in collagen protein, and the supply of glycine can be a limiting factor for collagen synthesis. Experiments showed that glycinamide was the most effective among the various amino acids and amidated amino acids in stimulating collagen production in human dermal fibroblasts. Thus, it is possible to synergistically improve collagen synthesis by combining AA analogs and amino acid analogs that act at different stages of the collagen production process. This combination therapy would be useful for skin antiaging that requires enhanced collagen production.