Designing Topical Hyaluronic Acid technology - size does matter…

Clinical Evaluation of Next-generation, Multi-weight Hyaluronic Acid Plus Antioxidant Complex-based Topical Formulations with Targeted Delivery to Enhance Skin Rejuvenation

Introduction

Hyaluronic acid (HA) has become a commonly used ingredient in many topical products due to its strong humectant properties and essential role in skin hydration; however, limitations of delivery of HA to only the surface of skin has hindered leveraging the full capacity of HA biology necessary for skin rejuvenation. Here, we describe the clinical efficacy data of a set of novel next-generation, multi-weight HA plus antioxidant complex-based topical formulations with targeted skin delivery to enhance skin rejuvenation.

Methods

Four multi-weight HA plus antioxidant complex-based formulations: 1) Multi-Weight HA plus Antioxidant Complex Lotion with SPF 30 (Day Lotion); 2) Multi-Weight HA plus Antioxidant Complex Cream (Night Cream); 3) Multi-Weight HA plus Antioxidant Complex Gel Cream; and 4) Multi-Weight HA plus Antioxidant Complex Boost Serum were clinically evaluated for key attributes including moisturization via corneometer, with clinical grading of: dryness, roughness, fine lines and wrinkles, and following daily use of the individual products for up to eight weeks.

Results

Daily use of the multi-weight HA plus antioxidant complex-based formulations demonstrated significant improvements in all parameters evaluated compared to baselines, with changes in moisturization observed within 30 minutes of application, and changes in clinical grading parameters of dryness, roughness, fine lines and wrinkles observed as early as two weeks.

Conclusion

These data demonstrate the clinical benefits of daily use of multi-weight HA plus antioxidant complex-based moisturizers for overall improvement in skin health and appearance.

Evaluation of Antioxidants' Ability to Enhance Hyaluronic-acid Based Topical Moisturizers

Background

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a unique molecule of the extracellular matrix with multiple biological activities. In skin, HA plays an essential role as a humectant, capable of binding up to 1,000 times its mass with water, providing skin with moisture and viscoelastic properties. HA concentration and synthesis decrease significantly in aging skin, due to exogenous and endogenous factors, including photoaging and HA metabolism. A key driver for HA degradation and reduced concentration is mediated via induction of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and other free radicals.

Objective

In this study, we evaluate antioxidant ingredients essential in the development of next-generation HA-based topical formulations aimed at leveraging HA's ability to maximize anti-aging properties.

Methods

Two antioxidants, glycine saponin (Glycine soja germ extract) and glycyrrhetinic acid (enoxolone), were evaluated for stimulation of endogenous HA production and inhibition of endogenous hyaluronidase activity, respectively.

Results

The antioxidant glycine saponin induced endogenous HA synthesis in fibroblasts, while the antioxidant glycyrrhetinic acid decreased the degradation rate of HA by 54 percent.

Conclusion

While HA has been included in numerous topical skin products, critical aspects of HA metabolism, especially in aging skin, have often been overlooked, including decreases in HA synthesis with increasing age, and increases in HA degradation mediated by exogenously induced reactive oxygen species and free radicals and increased enzymatic degradation by endogenous hyaluronidases. Here, we describe a unique approach to inclusion of two antioxidants essential for the development of the next generation of antioxidant complex-based topical skin formulations to limit the signs of aging skin.

Multicenter evaluation of a topical hyaluronic acid serum

BACKGROUND

A new hyaluronic acid (HA) formulation was developed based on high molecular weight (MW) compounds used on the surface of the skin while using peptides to stimulate the high MW HA production by fibroblasts and keratinocytes from within the skin layers. Detailed science has been submitted to this journal in a previous publication. This multicenter study aims to validate the science by demonstrating the safety and efficacy of the product in the clinical realm.

OBJECTIVES

This study evaluated the efficacy and safety of a topical HA serum in facial skin.

METHODS

An open-label clinical study was undertaken over 4 months from November 2021 to March 2022. Participants applied the topical serum twice daily and were provided a gentle cleanser and an SPF 30+ to use in the morning. Follow-up visits were conducted at weeks 2, 4, and 8. At every visit, participants were measured for hydration post 15 minutes of cleansing the skin and post 15 minutes of product application for cumulative skin hydration sensor measurements. Additional procedures included participant assessments and satisfaction, investigator assessments, biopsies, and photography.

RESULTS

At each follow-up visit, there was an increase in hydration measurements compared to baseline, in both immediate scores and cumulative long-term scores. At weeks 4 and 8, there was a statistically significant increase in hydration compared to baseline and the prior visit. Participants' assessments progressively increased over 2-, 4-, and 8-week intervals with significantly favorable ratings in all measured parameters. Similarly, investigator assessment grades were statistically significant (p < 0.0001) for decreased fine lines/wrinkling, crepiness, texture, erythema, and dryness, and increased (p < 0.0001) for moisture/hydration. Histology revealed increased CD44 staining in 6 of the 7 participants biopsied, denoting increased HA stimulation. In all of the participant biopsies, H&E staining demonstrated improvement in solar elastosis. Photography revealed remarkable improvement in erythema, tone, and texture.

CONCLUSIONS

The study results demonstrated that the formulation produced significant improvements in immediate and long-term hydration effects on the skin as measured by the skin hydration sensor, 'wearifi' technology, comparison of before and after biopsies, and participant and investigator assessments. This high MW HA formulation produced excellent clinical improvement in skin health and hydration.