Water adsorption with relative humidity changes for keratin and collagen as studied by infrared ( IR ) micro‐spectroscopy

Non-invasive identification of historical textiles and leather by means of external reflection FTIR spectroscopy

Identifying the fibres in historical textiles presents a complex challenge due to the wide variety of plant, animal and early synthetic materials that have been used. Traditionally, this identification process involves sampling followed by either microscopic examination or ATR-FTIR spectroscopy. However, there are instances when sampling is restricted due to the good condition or significant value of the object under analysis. Additionally, the presence of leather components alongside textiles can further complicate the identification. This paper proposes a novel non-invasive method for fibre identification based on External Reflection (ER) FTIR spectroscopy, which has been rarely applied to textiles or leather. The current research demonstrates that ER-FTIR spectrum is a viable tool for fibre identification on both recent and historical textiles. The non-invasiveness of the analytical approach enables a comprehensive investigation without compromising the number or position of samples. Respect to ATR-FTIR spectra, the ER-FTIR spectra frequently exhibit an amplification of certain diagnostic bands, facilitating the identification of the various fibres examined in this study (cotton, hemp, viscose, silk, wool, leather, polyamide, acrylic, polyester). The extended spectral range (7500-375 cm-1) which is provided by ER-FTIR spectrometry also contains extra bands in the near infrared region, which can provide key information for the discrimination due to the lack of distortion phenomena. The technique was applied to the characterisation of textile materials coming from a collection of 10 traditional Japanese samurai armours spanning from the 16th to the 20th century (Museo delle Culture, Lugano, Switzerland). For the first time, the results provided a comprehensive overview of the textiles utilized in Japanese armours across various historical periods. Overall, the appearance of materials in samurai armours reflects the evolution of armour-making techniques and the influence of socio-cultural factors throughout Japanese history. Synthetic and semi-synthetic materials were easily detected, revealing the occurrence of a past conservation treatment or the early adoption of modern man-made materials in the manufacturing of traditional armours. The approach outlined in this case study can be applied to textile collections of various kinds, offering a reliable mean to discern the yarn composition and detect non-original components. The method also appears as a valuable prescreening tool for designing a less intrusive yet more informative sampling strategy, should additional details about fibre type and dyeing be necessary.

Arginine-fructose-glucose from red ginseng extract reduces stiffness of keratin fiber in corneocyte of skin

PURPOSE

The moisture content of the stratum corneum of the skin changes depending on the external environment. The structure of keratinous fiber protein in corneocyte of the skin changes depending on the amount of moisture. As the moisture decreases, the population of the alpha-helix increases, the beta-sheet deceases, and the stiffness increases accordingly. Here, we investigated the effect of humectants from ginseng on the keratin structure.

METHODS

Corneocyte was prepared from dry porcine skin with disc tape and measured through ATR-FT-IR. The signal from amide I of the keratin protein in corneocyte was detected, and the change in the ratio of alpha-helix and beta-sheet was calculated. The test samples were treated on the exfoliated corneocyte, and the degree of change was checked.

RESULT

Arginine-fructose-glucose (AFG)-enriched extract of red ginseng was effective in changing the keratin structure and was superior to humectants such as glycerin. However, arginine, mono sugar were not effective, and the AFG form in which two sugars were bound to one amino acid could perform its function.

CONCLUSION

The present study suggests that AFG, when applied to cosmetics, is expected to improve skin texture in a different way from existing moisturizers represented by glycerin by reducing the alpha-helix structure of corneocyte keratin.

Water retention capabilities of collagen, gelatin and peptide as studied by IR/QCM/RH system

In this study, water retention properties of triple helix collagen, gelatin (separated single chains) and peptide (broken peptide fragments) were studied by using IR micro-spectroscopy equipped with a relative humidity (RH) control system and quartz crystal microbalance (QCM). Adsorbed water ratios (wt%) are found to be in the order of collagen, gelatin and peptide (at about RH = 60%, 22 wt% for collagen, 14 wt% for gelatin and 9 wt% for peptide). Free water molecules with longer H bonds are the major adsorbed water species for collagen, gelatin and peptide. IR band shifts and changes in normalized band areas of functional groups are generally larger for collagen than gelatin and peptide, indicating larger interactions of water molecules with functional groups such as aliphatic CH₂, CH₃, amides, COO^- and C-O for collagen. Relations between normalized band areas show that water molecules are interacting with aliphatic CH species and C-O bonds of collagen. Since the fibril structures of collagen triple helices are reported to be cross-linked by sugars, water molecules can be attracted to polar C-O bonds of sugars linking collagen triple helices in fibrils and they are interacting with adjacent aliphatic CH side chains on the surface of fibrils.

Water Adsorption to Leaves of Tall Cryptomeria japonica Tree Analyzed by Infrared Spectroscopy under Relative Humidity Control

Leaf water storage is a complex interaction between live tissue properties (anatomy and physiology) and physicochemical properties of biomolecules and water. How leaves adsorb water molecules based on interactions between biomolecules and water, including hydrogen bonding, challenges our understanding of hydraulic acclimation in tall trees where leaves are exposed to more water stress. Here, we used infrared (IR) microspectroscopy with changing relative humidity (RH) on leaves of tall Cryptomeria japonica trees. OH band areas correlating with water content were larger for treetop (52 m) than for lower-crown (19 m) leaves, regardless of relative humidity (RH). This high water adsorption in treetop leaves was not explained by polysaccharides such as Ca-bridged pectin, but could be attributed to the greater cross-sectional area of the transfusion tissue. In both treetop and lower-crown leaves, the band areas of long (free water: around 3550 cm⁻¹) and short (bound water: around 3200 cm⁻¹) hydrogen bonding OH components showed similar increases with increasing RH, while the band area of free water was larger at the treetop leaves regardless of RH. Free water molecules with longer H bonds were considered to be adsorbed loosely to hydrophobic CH surfaces of polysaccharides in the leaf-cross sections.

Interactions of Glycerol, Diglycerol, and Water Studied Using Attenuated Total Reflection Infrared Spectroscopy

In order to examine the mixing properties of glycerol-water and diglycerol-water solutions, these solutions were measured using attenuated total reflection infrared spectroscopy. The absorbance spectra corrected for 1 µm thickness were subtracted by pure polyols for obtaining water spectra, and by pure water for polyol spectra. Both asymmetric and symmetric CH₂ stretching vibration bands (around 2940, 2885 cm^-1) shifted about 10 cm^-1 to lower wavenumber side (redshifts) with increasing polyol concentrations, especially at higher concentrations. Redshifts of C-O-H rocking bands (around 1335 cm^-1) with increasing polyol concentrations are slightly larger for diglycerol-water (10 > 6 cm^-1) than glycerol-water solutions. C-O stretching bands of CHOH groups (1125 and 1112 cm^-1) shift slightly but in opposite sides for glycerol and diglycerol at highest polyol concentrations (90-100 wt%). These shifts of CH₂ stretching, COH rocking, and CO stretching of CHOH at higher polyol concentrations suggest interactions of outer CH₂ with inner CHOH groups of surrounding polyols. The normalized band area changes with polyol concentrations could be fitted by quadratic polynomials possibly due to mixtures of different interactions between water-water, polyol-water, and polyol-polyol molecules. The OH stretching band for diglycerol 90 wt% shows three humps indicating at least three OH components: long, medium, and short H bond water molecules. Short H bond water molecules are the major component possibly between inner CHOH and outer side CH₂OH groups, while the long H component might loosely bind to outer CH₂OH groups.