Review of human hair optical properties in possible relation to melanoma development

Optical evaluation of internal damage to human hair based on second near-infrared window polarization microscopy

OBJECTIVE

Hair beauty treatments glorify human life. As a side effect, there is a risk of deteriorating the health of the hair. Optically polarized microscopy has been used for many decades to evaluate hair conditions owing to its ease of use and low operating costs. However, the low biopermeability of light hinders the observation of detailed structures inside hair. The aim of this study is to establish an evaluation technique of internal damages in a hair by utilizing a near-infrared (NIR) light with a wavelength of 1000-1600 nm, called "second NIR window".

METHODS

We built a laser scanning transmission microscope system with an indium gallium arsenide detector, a 1064 nm laser source, and optical circular polarization to visualize the anisotropy characterization of keratin fibres in hair. Samples of Asian black hair before and after bleaching, after permanent-waving, after lithium bromide (LiBr) treatment, and after heating was observed. Some parameters reflecting intra-hair damage were quantitatively compared with the parameters in digitally recorded images with analytical developments.

RESULTS

The light transmittance of black hair was dramatically improved by utilizing the second NIR window. Numerical analysis of circular polarization in hair quantified the internal damage in chemically or thermally treated hair and found two different types of damage. The present method enabled quantitative evaluation of the condition changes in the cortex; for example, a decrease in circular polarizability by LiBr treatment and restoration by replacing the LiBr solution with water. In addition, black speckles were observed after the heat treatment. Longer heating and wetting times increased the appearance probability and size of the speckles. According to quantitative analyses, the emergence of black spots was independent of polarizability changes, indicating that they were not pores.

CONCLUSION

Circular polarization microscopy based on near-infrared optics in the second NIR window provides an effective evaluation method for quantifying intra-hair damage caused by cosmetic treatments. The present method provides noninvasive, easy, and inexpensive hair evaluation and has potential as a gold standard in hair care research/medical fields.

Polarization properties and Umov effect of human hair

This study delves into the polarization properties of various hair colors using several techniques, including polarization ray tracing, full Stokes, and Mueller matrix imaging. Our analysis involved studying hair in both indoor and outdoor settings under varying lighting conditions. Our results demonstrate a strong correlation between hair color and the degree of linear polarization. Specifically, light-colored hair, such as white and blond, exhibits high albedo and low DoLP. In contrast, dark hair, like black and brown hair, has low albedo and high DoLP. Our research also revealed that a single hair strand displays high diattenuation near specular reflections but high depolarization in areas with diffuse reflections. Additionally, we investigated the wavelength dependency of the polarization properties by comparing the Mueller matrix under illumination at 450 nm and 589 nm. Our investigation demonstrates the impact of hair shade and color on polarization properties and the Umov effect.

Effect of hair removal on solar UV transmission into skin and implications for melanoma skin cancer development

Melanoma is the severest type of skin cancer. As distinct from many other cancer types, the incidence of melanoma has been increasing steadily over the last century. Discovering new risk factors of melanoma will not only raise public awareness but also potentially contribute to the improvement of skin cancer protection in the future. Nowadays, the tendency of shaving skin hair is becoming increasingly popular for aesthetic purposes. However, human hair serves several functions, one of which is ultraviolet (UV) protection for the skin. What is more, stem cells found in the follicles of hair could be the origin of melanoma upon exposure to ultraviolet radiation. Therefore, it is of interest to investigate the effect of shaving on solar UV transmission in the skin. To achieve that, two groups of skin models are constructed in TracePro software: one with unaltered hair and one with shaved hair. The UV transport in the models is simulated using the Monte Carlo method and the absorptions in the stem cells layer are compared. It is found that shaving will increase the UV transmission to the follicular stem cells to a certain degree. More specifically, shaving limbs will generally increase the solar UV transmission from about 5% to 20% in the UV wavelength range.

Transepidermal UV radiation of scalp skin ex vivo induces hair follicle damage that is alleviated by the topical treatment with caffeine

Objectives

Although the effect of ultraviolet radiation (UVR) on human skin has been extensively studied, very little is known on how UVR impacts on hair follicle (HF) homeostasis. Here, we investigated how solar spectrum UVR that hits the human skin surface impacts on HF biology, and whether any detrimental effects can be mitigated by a widely used cosmetic and nutraceutical ingredient, caffeine.

Methods

Human scalp skin with terminal HFs was irradiated transepidermally ex vivo using either 10 J/cm²UVA (340–440 nm) + 20 mJ/cm²UVB (290–320 nm) (low dose) or 50 J/cm²UVA + 50 mJ/cm²UVB (high dose) and organ‐cultured under serum‐free conditions for 1 or 3 days. 0.1% caffeine (5.15 mmol/L) was topically applied for 3 days prior to UV exposure with 40 J/cm²UVA + 40 mJ/cm²UVB and for 3 days after UVR. The effects on various toxicity and vitality read‐out parameters were measured in defined skin and HF compartments.

Results

Consistent with previous results, transepidermal UVR exerted skin cytotoxicity and epidermal damage. Treatment with high and/or low UVA+UVB doses also induced oxidative DNA damage and cytotoxicity in human HFs. In addition, it decreased proliferation and promoted apoptosis of HF outer root sheath (ORS) and hair matrix (HM) keratinocytes, stimulated catagen development, differentially regulated the expression of HF growth factors, and induced perifollicular mast cell degranulation. UVR‐mediated HF damage was more severe after irradiation with high UVR dose and reached also proximal HF compartments. The topical application of 0.1% caffeine did not induce skin or HF cytotoxicity and stimulated the expression of IGF‐1 in the proximal HF ORS. However, it promoted keratinocyte apoptosis in selected HF compartments. Moreover, caffeine provided protection towards UVR‐mediated HF cytotoxicity and dystrophy, keratinocyte apoptosis, and tendential up‐regulation of the catagen‐promoting growth factor.

Conclusion

Our study highlights the clinical relevance of our scalp UV irradiation ex vivo assay and provides the first evidence that transepidermal UV radiation negatively affects important human HF functions. This suggests that it is a sensible prophylactic strategy to integrate agents such as caffeine that can act as HF photoprotectants into sun‐protective cosmeceutical and nutraceutical formulations.

Thermal damage thresholds for multiple-pulse porcine skin laser exposures at 1070 nm

As solid-state laser technology continues to mature, high-energy lasers operating in the near-infrared (NIR) band have seen increased utilization in manufacturing, medical, and military applications. Formulations of maximum permissible exposure limits establish guidelines for the safe use of these systems for a given set of laser parameters, based on past experimental and analytical studies of exposure thresholds causing injury to the skin and eyes. The purpose of our study is to characterize the skin response to multiple-pulsed laser exposures at the NIR wavelength of 1070 nm, at a constant beam diameter of 1 cm, using anesthetized Yucatan mini-pig subjects. Our study explores three constant total laser-on times of 0.01, 0.1, and 10 s as single- and multiple-pulse sequences. Exposures consisting of 10, 30, and 100 pulses have identical individual pulse durations but different duty cycles in order to include variable degrees of thermal additivity. A plurality of three observers quantifies skin damage with the minimally visible lesion metric, judged at the 1- and 24-h intervals postexposure. Calculation of the median effective dose (ED₅₀) provides injury thresholds for all exposure conditions, based on varying laser power across subjects. The results of this study will provide a quantitative basis for the incorporation of multiple-pulsed laser exposure into standards and augment data contained in the existing ED₅₀ database.

Medulla loss of scalp hair in breast cancer patients determined by near-infrared microscopy

Inexpensive near-infrared microscopy (NIRM) was developed as a convenient technique to detect the medulla loss of scalp hair while reducing analytical time with easy sample preparation, leading to a field screening tool for breast cancer. NIRM has been evaluated as an alternative to synchrotron-based nanoscopy and to the relatively expensive method of conventional infrared microscopy to determine the degree and pattern of medulla loss of scalp hairs of patients with breast cancer and benign diseases, as well as normal healthy individuals. NIR imaging showed a strong, scattering-based hyperintense contrast of the medulla compared to the fully attenuated cortex in medullated healthy hair. Complete medulla loss (CML) per hair strand was more extensively (60.9  ±  10.2 %) (p  <  0.001) detected in the hair of all cancer patients than in the hair of either healthy individuals (less than 3.7  ±  7.5%) or those with benign disease (30.6  ±  5.9  %  ), suggesting a potential biomarker for breast cancer diagnosis. The medulla structure was retained mostly in the hair of age-matched healthy individuals, but discontinuous medulla loss was observed concomitantly with less CML in fibroadenoma patients. Potentially, compact NIRM modules can be integrated into a mobile platform as point-of-care technology for breast cancer screening.