Olympic competition climbing: the beginning of a new era-a narrative review

Painfully ignorant? Impact of gender and aim of training on injuries in climbing

Introduction

Climbing has evolved from an obscure outdoor sport to a predominantly indoor sport with the rise of mainstream climbing on artificial walls. Reported climbing-related injuries were predominantly chronic and may be avoided with proper planning of training. All climbers, regardless of age and gender, are training on the same routes and perform similar movements; however, few studies have investigated gender-specific injuries in climbing.

Objectives

Assess the distribution of chronic climbing injuries in an international population with gender-specific analyses and assess the impact of the person's training focus or aim of training on those injuries.

Methods

A cross-sectional survey using a web-based item-driven questionnaire was created and promoted using social media and several climbing media stakeholders. All climbers engaged in either sport climbing, bouldering or traditional climbing were included.

Results

The survey received 1513 responses (877 men, 427 women and 9 not reporting gender), of which 50.3% (n=665; 51.4% men and 48.0% women) had experienced an injury in the past 12 months. There were significant differences in injuries in feet/ankle (p=0.014), neck (p=0.03), head (p=0.0001), shoulder (p=0.001), elbow (p=0.021) and fingers (p=0.003).

Conclusion

Over 50% of the climbers experienced an injury in the past 12 months. The most common injuries were to the shoulders (women) and fingers (men). There were significant differences between the genders regarding injury site and prevalence. The gender differences may be affected by the aim for training and the style of climbing.

Strobe training as a visual training method that improves performance in climbing

Introduction

Strobe training is a form of visual training where the athlete has to practice during intermittently dark conditions. Strobe training improves visual, perceptual, and cognitive skills, which will enhance athletic performance. Strobe training can influence multiple training components in climbing: psychological, tactical, physical, and technical training.

Materials and methods

The study was conducted on 17 elite climbers from Romania (10 male and 7 female), representing the entire National Youth Climbing Team. The research group was divided into a control group (n = 8) and an experimental group (n = 9). The used instruments were the Cognitrom battery (for cognitive skills, such as spatial skills and reactivity), the Witty SEM system (for motor-cognitive skills, such as cognitive agility, visual processing speed, and visual memory), and the International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA) performance-related test battery for climbers (climbing-specific motor skills). The experimental group had 20 strobe training sessions, which took place during one calendar year, as an additional session to their climbing schedule done with their principal trainer. The strobe session was once a week, depending on the periodization of the macrocycle (preparatory, competitional, and transition periods). The control group and the experimental group had similar climbing training sessions during the 1-year macrocycle in terms of intensity and volume of their training.

Results

Strobe training improved on-sight performance (d = 0.38) and red-point performance (d = 0.36). Strobe training improved the majority of cognitive skills [all spatial skills (d = 1.27 for mental image transformation; d = 1.14 for spatial orientation; d = 1.59 for image generation) and simple reaction time (d = 0.99)]. Strobe training improved all motor-cognitive skills (d = 0.16 for visual memory; d = 1.96 for visual memory errors; d = 1.39 for visual processing speed; d = 1.94 for visual processing errors; d = 1.30 for cognitive agility). Strobe training improved many climbing-specific parameters (flexibility and upper body strength) (d = 0.44 and d = 0.47 for flexibility parameters; d = 0.50 to 0.73 for upper body strength parameters).

Discussion

Strobe training is an effective training method for enhancing performance that should be used on more experienced climbers. It acts more on spatial skills, rather than on reactivity skills, developing the visual-motor coordination system. Strobe training has greater effects on climbers aged below 16 years, as youth athletes rely more on visual input compared to adults. The improvement in climbing-specific variables was due to the additional climbing session done weekly. Strobe training acts more on the cognitive component of training than on the motor component of training in climbing.

"Run-and-jump failure": new injury patterns in indoor bouldering

In recent years, professional and non-professional bouldering have seen a fundamental change in movement patterns towards complex movement sequences. This is associated with increased demands on the musculoskeletal system, especially the lower extremities, which can lead to new injury patterns. In the course of our clinical work, we have already seen an increasing number of lower extremity injuries after run-and-jump sequences, with a severe one being highlighted in this case report.

Recovery markers in elite climbers after the national boulder climbing championship

This study aimed to investigate recovery markers among elite climbers following the National Boulder Championship. We assessed maximum isometric hand grip strength (HS), forearm swelling (circumference), delayed soreness in forearm muscles, tiredness, and exercise readiness at several time points: pre-competition, immediately post-competition (within 4 min after their last effort), and 12, 24, 48, and 60 h post-competition. Maximum isometric hand grip strength decreased by 6.38 ± 1.32% (p = 0.006) post-12 h, returning to pre-competition values post-24 h (all p > 0.05). Forearm circumference (FC) increased 1.78 ± 1.77% (p < 0.001) post-competition, returning to pre-competition values post-12 h (all p > 0.05). Forearm pain (FP) increased post-competition (p = 0.002) and post-12 h (p < 0.001), returning to pre-competition values post-24 h (all p > 0.05). Tiredness increased post-competition (p < 0.001), post-12 h (p < 0.001), and post-24 h (p < 0.001), returning to pre-competition values post-48 h (all p > 0.05). Climbing readiness was reduced post-competition (p < 0.001), post-12 h (p < 0.001), post-24 h (p < 0.001), and post-48 h (p = 0.005), only returning to pre-competition values post-60 h (p = 0.189). Visual analysis of individual data pointed out a relatively small variability in the HS and FC markers, while FP, tiredness, and readiness exhibited larger individual variations. These findings indicate that different recovery patterns exist for the analyzed markers, suggesting that athletes may require up to 60 h after a competition to fully recover and regain their ability to face new competitive challenges.

Physiological Characteristics, Dietary Intake, and Supplement Use in Sport Climbing

PURPOSE OF REVIEW

As sport climbing has become an Olympic sport and keeps gaining in popularity, there is growing interest in the role of diet and the effect of dietary supplements on climbing performance. The aim of this review is to provide an insight into the dietary intake of climbers and discuss ergogenic aids that could improve their performance.

RECENT FINDINGS

Limited information is available regarding the dietary intake and eating habits of climbers, and the studies conducted are few and far between. The diet of climbers is apparently suboptimal, with inadequate energy intakes often owning to insufficient carbohydrate consumption. Likewise, supplement use and ergogenic aids for climbing performance are largely unexplored. Several ergogenic aids have been suggested to improve climbing performance; however, only two have been examined directly on climbing-specific outcomes. The dietary intake, eating behaviors, and supplement use in sport climbers are not well studied, and available information is most likely outdated. Considerably, more work is needed to determine which ergogenic aids can be beneficial for climbing performance.

Palmar Shift of the Proximal Interphalangeal Joint in Different Grip Positions as a Potential Risk Factor for Periphyseal Injuries in Adolescent Climbers

INTRODUCTION

The aim of this study was to evaluate different grip positions as a contributing factor for primary periphyseal stress injuries of the finger phalanges in climbing.

METHODS

Ultrasound imaging of the proximal interphalangeal joint was performed on 37 asymptomatic adolescent climbers. Longitudinal images were obtained of middle and ring fingers of both hands in different grip positions (open, half-open, and crimp), unloaded and loaded. The translation between the dorsal head of the proximal phalanx and the shaft of the middle phalanx was measured in an unloaded and loaded situation for all grip positions. The resulting difference was determined as the palmar shift.

RESULTS

The mean age of the study population was 13 y. Results showed a palmar shift of 0.57 mm in a loaded crimp grip position compared to 0.13 mm in an open position and 0.20 mm in a half-open grip position. With a P value of <0.001, this shift was significantly higher in a crimp grip position compared to open or half-open grip positions.

CONCLUSIONS

This leads to an increase in joint incongruity and much higher peak forces on the dorsal aspect of the epiphyseal-physeal-metaphyseal complex, which is particularly vulnerable during the adolescent growth spurt. Thus, climbing and training behavior should be adapted accordingly during this phase by avoiding the crimp grip position until epiphyseal fusion.

Point-of-Care Ultrasound (POCUS) for Sideline Youth Sports Coverage

PURPOSE OF REVIEW

The purpose of this review is to discuss the use of point-of-care ultrasound for sideline youth sports coverage.

RECENT FINDINGS

Participation in youth sports has been increasing, with trends that athletes are specializing earlier and competing at higher levels at younger ages (NSCH 2019, Fabricant 2013). Point-of-care ultrasound (POCUS) utilizes non-invasive imaging to diagnose and manage various musculoskeletal conditions ranging from traumatic injuries, such as fractures and intramuscular hematomas, to early screening for conditions such as asymptomatic knee lesions. Since it is well-tolerated by children and adolescents and allows for easy accessibility for sideline care, POCUS could provide a strong alternative to other imaging modalities such as x-ray and magnetic resonance imaging (MRI) as both have their limitations. Youth sideline sports coverage could be enhanced with immediate medical attention from ultrasound-trained medical professionals. On the sidelines of a traumatic injury, POCUS expedites patient care with immediate examination of acute injuries. In low resource and hard-to-reach locations such as a rural youth sporting event, it can be key in the triaging of injuries. As a supplement to a physical exam, the risk of a misdiagnosis is reduced, and a long, expensive trip to the hospital for unnecessary imaging studies may be avoided. Ultrasound is a versatile, non-invasive, radiation-free imaging modality that serves as an accessible option for sideline coverage at youth sporting events. Ultrasound is well-tolerated by children and adolescents. It can be used to evaluate, diagnose, and manage a range of musculoskeletal conditions at the sidelines of youth sports.

Wrist Injuries in Climbers

BACKGROUND

Acute and chronic injuries to the wrist are among the most common sport-related complaints of climbing athletes but have not been extensively evaluated in this population. Therefore, it is important to categorize climbing injuries to the wrist, analyze risk factors, and assess treatment outcomes.

PURPOSE

To evaluate the distribution, outcomes, and influencing factors of wrist injuries in climbers.

STUDY DESIGN

Case series; Level of evidence, 4.

METHODS

Climbing athletes with wrist injuries who presented to our specialized sports medical center over the course of 4 years (2017-2020) were selected. All had prospectively completed questionnaires including their climbing-specific background (years of training, climbing level, training methods, etc). Injuries were analyzed (International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation [UIAA] grade and diagnosis), and treatment methods and outcomes were retrospectively assessed with a minimum follow-up of 2 years. Parameters included the climbing score, visual analog scale for pain score, Patient-Rated Wrist Evaluation (PRWE) score, and shortened version of the Disabilities of the Arm, Shoulder and Hand (QuickDASH) score including the sport component (DASH-Sport) score before and after treatment as well as time to return to climbing.

RESULTS

A total of 69 patients (25 female, 44 male) with 78 wrist injuries were identified and analyzed. Of these, 7 injuries were bilateral, occurring at the same time, and 2 injuries were independent reinjuries to either the same or the contralateral side. In addition, 24 injuries (30.8%) were acute, while 54 (69.2%) were chronic. Overall, 2 injuries had a UIAA grade of 3; all others had a UIAA grade of 2. The most frequent injuries were synovitis of the ulnocarpal recess, ulnar impaction, bone marrow edema of the lunate, wrist sprains (joint capsular pain with stress, with no pathological finding on magnetic resonance imaging), and wrist ganglion cysts. Nonoperative treatment was performed for 61 of the injuries, while 17 were treated surgically. In 51 cases (65.4%), injuries healed without consequences; in 27 cases (34.6%), discomfort remained. The visual analog scale pain score decreased from 4.8 ± 1.9 before treatment to 0.7 ± 1.0 after treatment (P < .001), the PRWE score decreased from 53.6 ± 24.9 to 10.3 ± 13.1 (P < .001), the QuickDASH score improved from 53.0 ± 16.6 to 20.0 ± 20.2 (P < .001), and the DASH-Sport score improved from 82.0 ± 16.1 to 38.1 ± 23.5 (P < .001). The climbing score improved from 2.5 ± 1.1 to 4.3 ± 1.0 points (P < .001). The patient-reported number of days with pain was negatively correlated with changes in the PRWE score (r = -0.351; P < .001), QuickDASH score (r = -0.316; P = .007), and climbing score (r = -0.264; P = .025) as well as the number of days without climbing (r = -0.266; P = .025). The number of days without climbing was positively correlated with changes in the PRWE score (r = 0.369; P < .001).

CONCLUSION

Wrist injuries in climbers constituted a diverse set of diagnoses. Ulnar-sided injuries were most common, and many patients had >1 diagnosis. Outcomes for all treatment methods (surgery and nonoperative care) were favorable, but approximately one-third of climbers had persistent wrist discomfort after treatment, underscoring the need for accurate diagnoses and acute and expert care.

Evaluation of finger cartilage composition in recreational climbers with 7 Tesla T2 mapping magnetic resonance imaging

Purpose

Sport climbing may lead to tissue adaptation including finger cartilage before apparent surface damage is detectable. The main aim was to assess finger cartilage composition with T2 mapping in young, active climbers and to compare the results to a non-climbers' collective. A secondary aim was to compare whether differences in cartilage T2 times are observed between older vs. younger volunteers.

Methods and materials

7 Tesla MRI of the fingers Dig.2-4 was performed using a multi-echo spin echo sequence. Manual segmentation of 3 ROIs at the metacarpal heads, 1 ROI at the base phalanx and 1 ROI at the proximal interphalangeal joint was performed. Included were 13 volunteers without history of trauma who are regularly performing climbing activities as a recreational sport (>20 h/month). These were age-matched with 10 control subjects not performing climbing activities.

Results

Mean age was 32.4 years for the climbing group and 25.8 years for the controls. Mean T2 values for the 5 different ROIs were 42.2 ± 7.8 msec for climbers and 41.4 ± 6.8 msec for non-climbers. No significant differences were observed for T2 values between both groups. However, higher age had a significant impact on T2 values for all assessed ROIs (higher age 44.2 ± 9.5, younger age 32.9 ± 5.7, p = 0.001).

Discussion

This study evaluated the cartilage composition of young, engaged climbers with a T2 mapping MRI technique with the purpose to depict early onset joint changes. No negative impact on cartilage composition due to the sport activity was found, whereas age-related effects on the cartilage seemed to be more prominent.

Functional and Sport-Specific Outcome Following Traumatic First-Time Shoulder Dislocation and Arthroscopic Surgical Repair in Rock Climbers

INTRODUCTION

Traumatic shoulder dislocations rank among the most common shoulder injuries in climbers, with rising numbers over the last years. The objective of this study was to analyze the outcome following traumatic first-time shoulder dislocation and subsequent surgical treatment in this population.

METHODS

In a retrospective study, climbers who experienced a traumatic shoulder dislocation were treated with an arthroscopic repair of the labrum-ligament complex (LLC). The functional outcome was assessed with a standardized questionnaire and clinical examination, including the Constant Murley and Single Assessment Numeric Evaluation scores. The sport-specific outcome was analyzed using the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA) scale of difficulty and a sport-specific outcome score.

RESULTS

The functional and sport-specific outcome for 27 climbers (20 men; 7 women; 3 with bilateral injuries; age, 34±11 [17-61] y; data presented as mean±SD [range]) was assessed 53±29 (12-103) mo after surgery. The postoperative Constant Murley score was 95±8 (67-100) points. At follow-up, 93% (n=25) of patients had started climbing again. Twenty-one climbers (78%) reached a climbing level within the range of ±0.33 UIAA grades of their initial capability or even exceeded their preinjury grade. Only 7% (n=2) of the patients had a recurrent shoulder dislocation, leading to a secondary surgery, and, therefore, required ongoing postoperative treatment at the time of follow-up.

CONCLUSIONS

Arthroscopic repair of the LLC following first-time traumatic shoulder dislocation in climbers shows a good outcome and a low recurrence rate. After surgery, most patients are able to regain a high level of rock-climbing ability.

Top of the podium, at what cost? injuries in female international elite climbers

Objectives

Competitive sport climbing has made its way to the Olympic stage. This prestige has brought about route setting and training alterations which presumably affect injury epidemiology. Most of the climbing injury literature contains male climbers and lacks high performing athletes. Studies with both female and male climbers, rarely included separate analyses for performance level or sex. Therefore, injury concerns for elite female competitive climbers are impossible to discern. A former study examined the prevalence of amenorrhea in elite international female climbers (n = 114) and reported that 53.5% had at least one injury in the past 12 months, but injury details were excluded. This study's aim was to report these injury details and their associations with BMI, menstrual status and eating disorders of the cohort.

Methods

Online survey was emailed to competitive female climbers recruited through the IFSC database between June and August 2021. Data was analyzed using Mann-Whitney U, χ² and logistic regression.

Results

229 registered IFSC climbers opened the questionnaire and 114 (49.7%) provided valid responses. Respondents (mean ± SD; age = 22.9 ± 5 year) represented 30 different countries and more than half (53.5%, n = 61) reported an injury in the prior 12 months with the majority in shoulders (37.7%, n = 23) and fingers (34.4%, n = 21). Injury prevalence in climbers with amenorrhea was 55.6% (n = 10). BMI was not a significant predictor of injury risk (OR = 1.082, 95% CI: 0.89, 1.3; p = 0.440) while accounting for current ED over the past 12 months. However, the odds ratio for having an injury was doubled for those with an ED (OR = 2.129, 95% CI: 0.905, 5.010; p = 0.08).

Conclusion

With over half reporting recent injuries (<12 months) mostly to shoulders and fingers, development of new strategies for injury prevention in competitive female climbers are warranted. In addition, climbers with disordered eating behaviors and/or menstrual disturbances might be more prone to injury. More research in this population is required. Suitable screening to prevent these health issues and proper monitoring of these athletes are paramount to long-term athlete success.

High-resolution ultrasound tendon-to-bone distances in partial and complete finger flexor A2 pulley ruptures simulated in human cadaver dissection: toward understanding imaging of partial pulley ruptures

Introduction: The A2 pulley tear is the most common injury in rock climbing. Whereas complete A2 pulley ruptures have been extensively researched, studies focused on partial A2 pulley ruptures are lacking. A2 pulleys rupture distally to proximally. High-resolution ultrasound imaging is considered the gold-standard tool for diagnosis and the most relevant ultrasound measurement is the tendon-to-bone distance (TBD), which increases when the pulley ruptures. The purpose of this study was to establish tendon-to-bone distance values for different sizes of partial A2 pulley ruptures and compare these values with those of complete ruptures. Material and methods: The sample consisted of 30 in vitro fingers randomly assigned to 5 groups: G1, no simulated tear (control); G2, simulated 5 mm tear (low-grade partial rupture); G3, simulated 10 mm tear (medium-grade partial rupture); G4, simulated 15 mm tear (high-grade partial rupture); and G5, simulated 20 mm or equivalent tear (complete rupture). A highly experienced sonographer blinded to the randomization process and dissections examined all fingers. Results: The tendon-to-bone distance measurements (medians and interquartile ranges) were as follows: G1, 0.95 mm (0.77-1.33); G2, 2.11 mm (1.78-2.33); G3, 2.28 mm (1.95-2.42); G4, 3.06 mm (2.79-3.28); and G5, 3.66 mm (3.55-4.76). Significant differences were found between non-torn pulleys and simulated partial and complete pulley ruptures. Discussion: In contrast, and inconsistent with other findings, no significant differences were found among the different partial rupture groups. In conclusion, the longer the partial pulley rupture, the higher the tendon-to-bone distance value. The literature is inconsistent regarding the tendon-to-bone distance threshold to diagnose a partial A2 pulley rupture. The minimum tendon-to-bone distance value for a partial rupture was 1.6 mm, and tendon-to-bone distance values above 3 mm suggest a high-grade partial pulley rupture (15 mm incision) or a complete pulley rupture.

Low occurrence of MRI spinal changes in elite climbing athletes; a cross-sectional study

OBJECTIVES

To examine the occurrence of magnetic resonance imaging (MRI) changes in the thoracolumbar spine among elite climbing athletes.

METHODS

All climbers of the Swedish national sport climbing team (n = 8), and individuals having trained for selection to the national team (n = 11), were prospectively included. A control group, matched in age and sex, were recruited. All participants underwent a thoracolumbar MRI (1.5 T, T1- and T2-weighted imaging), evaluated according to Pfirrmann classification, modified Endplate defect score, Modic changes, apophyseal injuries and spondylolisthesis. Pfirrmann ≥ 3, Endplate defect score ≥ 2 and Modic ≥ 1 was defined as degenerative findings.

RESULTS

Fifteen individuals, 8 women, participated in both the climbing group (mean age 23.1, SD 3.2 years) and the control group respectively (mean age 24.3, SD 1.5 years). In the climbing group, 6.1% of the thoracic and 10.6% of the lumbar intervertebral discs showed signs of degeneration according to Pfirrmann. One disc with a grade above 3 was present. Modic changes in the thoracic/lumbar spine were prevalent in 1.7%/1.3% of the vertebrae. Degenerative endplate changes according to the Endplate defect score were found in 8.9% and 6.6% of the thoracic and lumbar spinal segments of the climbing group, respectively. Two apophyseal injuries were found, while no participants displayed signs of spondylolisthesis. There was no difference in point-prevalence of radiographic spinal changes between climbers and controls (0.07 < p < 1.0).

CONCLUSION

In this small cross-sectional study, only a low proportion of elite climbers displayed changes of the spinal endplates or intervertebral discs, as opposed to other sports with high spinal loads. Most observed abnormalities were low grade degenerative changes and did not differ statistically compared to controls.

ROCK-CLIMBING EXERCISE IN THE PHYSICAL TRAINING OF ATHLETES

ABSTRACT Introduction: With the promotion of rock climbing in the Tokyo Olympic Games in 2020 and the China National Games in 2017, the sport has been spread to the general public, and the country has paid more attention to its development. Objective: Study the effects of rock-climbing exercise on athletes' performance in physical training. Methods: A comparative study was conducted on the physical training of rock climbers through literary consultation, experience, and mathematical statistics aiming to explore the impact of the sport on physical training in rock climbers. Fifteen professional rock-climbing team athletes participated in this research. Results: A significant difference was found in strength quality between the experimental group and the control group (p<0.05), there were very significant differences in the fixed bar, push-ups, and 1min abdominal exercises (p<0.01) after the experiment, there were significant differences in speed, agility, and endurance between the experimental group and the control group (p<0.05), with emphasis on motor coordination and speed quality (p<0.01). Conclusion: Integrating physical training with rock climbing training has a remarkable effect on improving athletes' physical performance. Level of evidence II; Therapeutic studies - investigation of treatment outcomes.

Cognitive factors that predict on-sight and red-point performance in sport climbing at youth level

Introduction

The ascent of a route can be defined as being climbed on-sight or red-point. Climbing performance is measured by the grade of the personal best route that the athlete has ever climbed.

Methodology

The study examined 17 youth climbers (10 male and 7 female). The inclusion criteria were age (less than 20 years), a minimum of three sessions per week, a minimum 7a climbing grade and participation in national or international competitions. We used the Cognitrom battery and applied tests measuring spatial orientation and reactivity.

Results

Climbing experience explained 42.7% of the variance of on-sight performance, and 49.5% of the variance of red-point performance. Image generation has a negative on both on-sight and red-point performance, lowering the prediction with 0.5% for on-sight climbing and with 1.5% for red-point climbing.

Discussion

Experience can predict climbing performance with a better prediction for red-point performance than on-sight with almost 7%. A high level of image generation ability can lead to viewing more approaches for passing the crux, but in a moment of physical and mental breakdown, can lead to failure. Red-pointing is less demanding than on-sight from physiological and psychologycal points of view. On-sight climbing requires greater levels of cognitive skills, such as route intepretation strategies, spatial orientation, motric memory, problem-solving skills, but also greater levels of psychological skills such as stress management, risk management, coping anxiety.

Figure skating: Increasing numbers of revolutions in jumps at the European and World Championships

Figure skating is associated with a high prevalence of sport-specific injuries and overuse symptoms. Impacts are of greater magnitude in jumps with more revolutions that are thus connected to a greater risk of injury. While figure skating programs seem to have recently increased in difficulty, performance trends have not yet been reported in the literature. We hypothesized increasing performance and decreasing age trends of the best athletes who competed at international level in recent years. Furthermore, we aimed to identify and analyse objective performance parameters and to assess a potential link between age and the risk of injury. The development of the number of double, triple and quadruple jumps in the singles figure skating events at the World and European Championships since the introduction of the new ISU Judging System in the 2004/2005 season was analysed using regression statistics and Student's T-Tests. In all groups, the numbers of jumps with fewer rotations significantly decreased in the favour of jumps with more rotations. Women only started to perform jumps with four rotations in 2019. In the men, the number of quadruple jumps increased from an average of less than one to more than three in recent years (European and World Championships, both p < 0.001). In the European, but not in the World Championships, the average age increased in the men and decreased in the women (European Championships, men and women p = 0.006). Our study was the first to assess performance trends in elite figure skating. The incidence of injuries and overuse syndromes in figure skating needs to be monitored cautiously, as increases can be expected following recent gains in performance and jump complexity.

Nonoperative Treatment of Finger Flexor Tenosynovitis in Sport Climbers—A Retrospective Descriptive Study Based on a Clinical 10-Year Database

Simple Summary

Finger flexor tenosynovitis is among the most frequent overuse injuries in sport climbers. Targeted therapy is currently based mostly on reports of the anecdotal practical experience of single centers rather than scientific investigations, as there is very little research available on this pathology. The aim of this study was to describe the nonoperative treatment outcomes of finger flexor tenosynovitis treatments in sport climbers by retrospectively asking patients about injury triggers, therapy contents and outcomes. All patients were initially treated conservatively, and only one of the patients needed further therapy in the form of a single injection with hyaluronic acid; none of them underwent further operative treatment. The average symptom duration was 30.5 weeks, and all patients were able to resume climbing, with approximately 75% of them regaining or exceeding their initial climbing level. These good to excellent outcomes and no correlation between particular therapy contents and therapy outcome suggest that finger flexor tenosynovitis in sport climbers has a favorable natural course without requiring invasive therapy. However, further cohort studies and, ultimately, randomized controlled trials are needed to conclusively confirm our promising observations from this study.

Abstract

The aim of this study was to describe the nonoperative treatment outcomes of finger flexor tenosynovitis in sport climbers and to evaluate the association with baseline measures and therapy contents. Sixty-five sport climbers (49 males, mean age 34.1 years) diagnosed with tenosynovitis of the finger flexors were retrospectively asked about injury triggers, therapy contents and outcomes. Pulley thickness was measured by ultrasound. All patients were initially treated conservatively, and only one of the patients needed further therapy (single injection with hyaluronic acid); none of them underwent surgical treatment. The most frequently applied therapy was climbing-related load reduction (91%). The treatment resulted in a statistically significant reduction in pain intensity during climbing (before/after therapy ratio [Visual Analog Scale (VAS)/VAS] = 0.62, 95% CI = 0.55, 0.68). The average duration of the symptoms was 30.5 weeks (range 1–120 weeks). In a multiple linear regression analysis, initial daily life pain intensity and a climbing level higher than 7b according to the French/sport grading scale were the only predictive parameters for the relative change in pain intensity and symptom duration, respectively. All patients were able to resume climbing, with 75% regaining or even exceeding their initial climbing level. The good to excellent outcomes and no correlation between particular therapy contents and therapy outcome may suggest that finger flexor tenosynovitis in sport climbers has a favorable natural course without requiring invasive therapy. However, further cohort studies and, ultimately, randomized controlled trials are needed to conclusively confirm our promising observations.

Evaluation of a four-week Adjunct Compensatory Training for the treatment of climbing-specific overstrain syndromes of the shoulder

BACKGROUND

 Although climbing is an increasingly popular sport, there is a lack of scientific evaluation of suitable training methods for climbers, especially with a view to prevention and rehabilitation. A specific rehabilitation program, Adjunct Compensatory Training (ACT), has recently been presented, but it has not been evaluated scientifically to date.

OBJECTIVE

 To investigate the effects of Adjunct Compensatory Training on climbing-specific overstrain syndromes of the shoulder.

METHODS

 Twenty active boulderers and climbers with an average age of 28.9 (± 7.4) years performed a guided shoulder program of six specific exercises from the ACT program over a period of four weeks. They were examined before and after the intervention. Pre- and post-interventional measurements included the Constant-Murley Score, the QuickDASH Score and the measurement of shoulder ROM (range of motion).

RESULTS

 The Constant-Murley Score increased from 82 (± 10.0) to 104.1 (± 8.2) at follow-up (p < 0.001). The VAS value for bouldering and climbing decreased from 5.25 (± 1.4) before to 2.4 (± 1.6) after the intervention (p < 0.001). Shoulder flexion increased from 167.5 (± 14.9) to 173.1 (± 7.7) after the intervention (p < 0.05), abduction from 172.5 (± 14.9) to 179.6 (± 5.9) (n. s.), external rotation from neutral zero position from 77.6 (± 16.8) to 86.3 ± (8.3) (p < 0.05). Feasibility and acceptance of the intervention were good. Ninety-five percent of the participants continued to exercise, and 100 percent recommended the program to others.

CONCLUSION

 The ACT led to an improvement in pain, activities of daily living, range of motion and strength in boulderers and climbers with overstrain symptoms of the shoulder. It is also classified as a realistically feasible workout. The extent to which this effect will continue, and whether or not the program can prevent injuries, remains to be seen. It can only be presumed that regular exercises prevent shoulder injuries in the climbing population.

Evaluation of a Diagnostic-Therapeutic Algorithm for Finger Epiphyseal Growth Plate Stress Injuries in Adolescent Climbers

BACKGROUND

Finger epiphyseal growth plate stress injuries are the most frequent sport-specific injuries in adolescent climbers. Definitive diagnostic and therapeutic guidelines are pending.

PURPOSE

To evaluate a diagnostic-therapeutic algorithm for finger epiphyseal growth plate stress injuries in adolescent climbers.

STUDY DESIGN

Case series; Level of evidence, 4.

METHODS

On the basis of previous work on diagnostics and treatment of finger epiphyseal growth plate stress injuries (EGPIs) in adolescent climbers, we developed a new algorithm for management of these injuries, which was implemented into our clinical work. During a 4-year period, we performed a prospective multicentered analysis of our patients treated according to the algorithm. Climbing-specific background was evaluated (training years, climbing level, training methods, etc); injuries were analyzed (Salter-Harris classification and UIAA MedCom score [Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme]); and treatments and outcomes were recorded: union, time to return to climbing, VAS (visual analog scale), QuickDASH (shortened version of the Disabilities of the Arm, Shoulder, and Hand), and a climbing-specific outcome score.

RESULTS

Within the observation period, 27 patients with 37 independent EGPIs of the fingers were recorded (mean ± SD age, 14.7 ± 1.5 years; 19 male, 8 female; 66.7% competitive athletes). Regarding maturity at time of injury, the mean age at injury did not differ by sex. Average UIAA climbing level was 9.5 ± 0.8, with 6 ± 4.6 years of climbing or bouldering and 14 ± 9.1 hours of weekly climbing-specific training volume. Among the 37 injuries there were 7 epiphyseal strains, 2 Salter-Harris I fractures, and 28 Salter-Harris III fractures (UIAA 1, n = 7; UIAA 2, n = 30). Thirty-six injuries developed through repetitive stress, while 1 had an acute onset. Twenty-eight injuries were treated nonoperatively and 9 surgically. Osseous union was achieved in all cases, and there were no recurrences. The time between the start of treatment and the return to sport was 40.1 ± 65.2 days. The climbing-specific outcome score was excellent in 34 patients and good in 3. VAS decreased from 2.3 ± 0.6 to 0.1 ± 0.4 after treatment and QuickDASH from 48.1 ± 7.9 to 28.5 ± 3.3.

CONCLUSION

The proposed management algorithm led to osseous union in all cases. Effective treatment of EGPIs of the fingers may include nonsurgical or surgical intervention, depending on the time course and severity of the injury. Further awareness of EGPI is important to help prevent these injuries in the future.

MRI of Finger Pulleys at 7T-Direct Characterization of Pulley Ruptures in an Ex Vivo Model

The aim of this study was to evaluate 7 Tesla (7T) magnetic resonance imaging (MRI) for direct visualization and specific characterization of the finger flexor pulleys A2, A3, and A4 before and after ex vivo pulley rupture. Thirty fingers of human cadavers were examined before and after pulley disruption with a 26 min clinical 7T pulse sequence protocol. Images were assessed by two experienced radiologists for the presence of pulley rupture. Injury characterization included definition of rupture location, morphology, and complications. Image quality was evaluated according to a 4-point Likert-type scale from “not evaluable” to “excellent”. Macroscopic preparations were used as the reference standard. Direct characterization of intact A2, A3, and A4 pulleys and the corresponding pulley lesions was possible in all cases. The rupture location was distributed equally at the radial, ulnar, and central parts of the pulleys. A dislocation and intercalation of the pulley stump between the flexor tendon and finger phalanges was observed as a complication in 62.5% of cases. The average Likert score for direct visualization of pulleys was 2.67 before rupture and 2.79 after rupture creation, demonstrating adequate image quality for routine application. 7T MRI enables a direct characterization of A2, A3, and A4 pulleys before and after artificial disruption, including the definition of rupture morphology and location as well as the detection of rupture complications. This promises a precise presurgical evaluation of pulley injuries and complicated pulley stump dislocations.

Finger Flexor Pulley Injuries in Rock Climbers

Finger flexor pulley system injuries are the most common overuse injury in rock climbers. These injuries occur rarely outside of rock climbing, owing to the sport's unique biomechanical demands on the finger. As rock climbing continues to grow and earn recognition as a mainstream sport, an understanding of how to diagnose and treat these injuries also has become important. Our purpose is to describe current concepts in anatomy, biomechanics, clinical evaluation, imaging, prevention, and treatment strategies relating to finger flexor pulley system injuries. Our literature search was performed on PubMed with MeSH terms and keywords as subject headings to meet the objectives of this review. The "crimp grip" used in rock climbing is the mechanism for these injuries. The A2, A3, and A4 pulleys are at the highest risk of injury, especially when loaded eccentrically. Physical examination may reveal clinical "bowstringing," defined as the volar displacement of the flexor tendons from the phalanges; however, imaging is required for characterization of the underlying injury. Ultrasound is highly sensitive and specific for diagnosis and is recommended as the initial imaging technique of choice. Magnetic resonance imaging is recommended as an additional imaging study if ultrasound is inconclusive. Properly warming up increases the amount of physiologic bowstringing and is thought to prevent injury from occurring. Pulley injuries may be classified as grade I through IV. Conservative treatment, including immobilization, the H-tape method, and the use of a protective pulley splint, is recommended for grade I to III injuries. Surgical repair is reserved for grade IV injuries that are not amenable to conservative treatment.