Biomelanin antioxidants in cosmetics: assessment based on inhibition of lipid peroxidation

Recent Advances and Progress on Melanin: From Source to Application

Melanin is a biological pigment formed by indoles and phenolic compounds. It is widely found in living organisms and has a variety of unique properties. Due to its diverse characteristics and good biocompatibility, melanin has become the focus in the fields of biomedicine, agriculture, the food industry, etc. However, due to the wide range of melanin sources, complex polymerization properties, and low solubility of specific solvents, the specific macromolecular structure and polymerization mechanism of melanin remain unclear, which significantly limits the further study and application of melanin. Its synthesis and degradation pathways are also controversial. In addition, new properties and applications of melanin are constantly being discovered. In this review, we focus on the recent advances in the research of melanin in all aspects. Firstly, the classification, source, and degradation of melanin are summarized. Secondly, a detailed description of the structure, characterization, and properties of melanin is followed. The novel biological activity of melanin and its application is described at the end.

Functional and Structural Characterization of Melanin from Brevibacillus invocatus Strain IBA

Melanin is a polyphenol or indolic dark brown to black pigment of macromolecules that has a variety of biological functions including UV defence, desiccation, and oxidation. The pigment is classified as a heterogenic polymer. Analytical characterization of melanin can be difficult due to its heterogeneity. In this study, a newly isolated strain of Brevibacillus invocatus strain IBA capable of extracellular melanin production was grown on nutrient agar and the bacteria were molecularly identified. Chemical and physical methods were used to characterize melanin. The solubility of melanin in organic and inorganic solvents was used to characterise it chemically. According to the UV-visible wavelength scan, physical characterization revealed absorption in the UV region 200 to 300 nm, but declining towards the visible region. Functional group identification of extracted melanin was carried out by FTIR with different stretching vibrations at 3226, 2920, 2849, 1628, 1555, 1340 cm^-1 and weak absorption bands at 1104 and 1015 cm^-1. Structural characterization was carried by SEM of extracted melanin which showed irregular shape and size at different magnifications. The crystallinity of melanin was studied using X-ray crystallography, with a lattice parameter of approximately a = 8.54. The XRD spectrum of the extracted melanin crystallographic pattern revealed peaks at 2θ = 27.32, 31.66, 45.41, 53.84, 53.84, 56.44, 66.18, 73.10, 75.26, and 83.94, which correspond to reflections (111), (200), (220), (311), (222), (400), (331), (420), and (422), respectively. The analytical methods available for melanin analysis are largely complementary, providing detailed knowledge required to draw reliable conclusions about the sample under investigation.

Raman Characterization of Fungal DHN and DOPA Melanin Biosynthesis Pathways

Fungal melanins represent a resource for important breakthroughs in industry and medicine, but the characterization of their composition, synthesis, and structure is not well understood. Raman spectroscopy is a powerful tool for the elucidation of molecular composition and structure. In this work, we characterize the Raman spectra of wild-type Aspergillus fumigatus and Cryptococcus neoformans and their melanin biosynthetic mutants and provide a rough “map” of the DHN (A. fumigatus) and DOPA (C. neoformans) melanin biosynthetic pathways. We compare this map to the Raman spectral data of Aspergillus nidulans wild-type and melanin biosynthetic mutants obtained from a previous study. We find that the fully polymerized A. nidulans melanin cannot be classified according to the DOPA pathway; nor can it be solely classified according to the DHN pathway, consistent with mutational analysis and chemical inhibition studies. Our approach points the way forward for an increased understanding of, and methodology for, investigating fungal melanins.

New insight into melanin for food packaging and biotechnology applications

Melanin is a dark brown to black biomacromolecule with biologically active multifunctional properties that do not have a precise chemical structure, but its structure mainly depends on the polymerization conditions during the synthesis process. Natural melanin can be isolated from various animal, plant, and microbial sources, while synthetic melanin-like compounds can be synthesized by simple polymerization of dopamine. Melanin is widely used in various areas due to its functional properties such as photosensitivity, light barrier property, free radical scavenging ability, antioxidant activity, etc. It also has an excellent ability to act as a reducing agent and capping agent to synthesize various metal nanoparticles. Melanin nanoparticles (MNP) or melanin-like nanoparticles (MLNP) have the unique potential to act as functional materials to improve nanocomposite films' physical and functional properties. Various food packaging and biomedical applications have been made alone or by mixing melanin or MLNP. In this review, the general aspects of melanin that highlight biological activity, along with a description of MNP and the use as nanofillers in packaging films as well as reducing and capping agents and biomedical applications, were comprehensively reviewed.

Nutraceuticals for Skin Care: A Comprehensive Review of Human Clinical Studies

The skin is the body’s largest organ, it participates in sensitivity and offers protection against microorganisms, chemicals and ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Consequently, the skin may suffer alterations such as photo-ageing, immune dysfunction and inflammation which may significantly affect human health. Nutraceuticals represent a promising strategy for preventing, delaying, or minimising premature ageing of the skin and also to alleviate certain skin disorders. Among them, bioactive peptides and oligosaccharides, plant polyphenols, carotenoids, vitamins and polyunsaturated fatty acids are the most widely used ingredients. Supplementation with these products has shown evidence of having an effect on the signs of ageing and protection against UV radiation ageing in several human trials. In this review, the most relevant human studies on skin nutraceuticals are evaluated and the statistical resolution, biological relevance of their results, and, the trial protocols are discussed. In conclusion, quality and rigorousness of the trials must be improved to build credible scientific evidence for skin nutraceuticals and to establish a cause-effect relationship between the ingredients the beneficial effects for the skin.

Gallic Acid-Loaded Gel Formulation Combats Skin Oxidative Stress: Development, Characterization and Ex Vivo Biological Assays

Oxidative stress, which is a result of overproduction and accumulation of free radicals, is the main cause of several skin degenerative diseases, such as aging. Polyphenols, such as gallic acid, are an important class of naturally occurring antioxidants. They have emerged as strong antioxidants that can be used as active cosmetics. The purpose of this study was to develop a gallic acid-loaded cosmetic gel formulation and characterize it using rheological, mechanical, and bioadhesive tests. Its antioxidant effect in the stratum corneum was evaluated by a non-invasive method. According to the characterization tests, the formulation exhibited skin adhesiveness and pseudoplastic behavior without thixotropy, rendering it suitable for use as a cosmetic formulation. Furthermore, the non-invasive method indicated the antioxidant effect in the stratum corneum, with the global lipid peroxide reduction being 33.97 ± 11.66%. Thus, we were able to develop a promising gallic acid-loaded gel formulation that could reduce lipid peroxides and thus combat skin oxidative stress.

Bioproduction, characterization, anticancer and antioxidant activities of extracellular melanin pigment produced by newly isolated microbial cell factories Streptomyces glaucescens NEAE-H

In this present study, a newly isolated strain, Streptomyces sp. NEAE-H, capable of producing high amount of black extracellular melanin pigment on peptone-yeast extract iron agar and identified as Streptomyces glaucescens NEAE-H. Plackett-Burman statistical design was conducted for initial screening of 17 independent (assigned) variables for their significances on melanin pigment production by Streptomyces glaucescens NEAE-H. The most significant factors affecting melanin production are incubation period, protease-peptone and ferric ammonium citrate. The levels of these significant variables and their interaction effects were optimized by using face-centered central composite design. The maximum melanin production (31.650 μg/0.1 ml) and tyrosinase activity (6089.10 U/ml) were achieved in the central point runs under the conditions of incubation period (6 days), protease-peptone (5 g/L) and ferric ammonium citrate (0.5 g/L). Melanin pigment was recovered by acid-treatment. Higher absorption of the purified melanin pigment was observed in the UV region at 250 nm. It appeared to have defined small spheres by scanning electron microscopy imaging. The maximum melanin yield was 350 mg dry wt/L of production medium. In vitro anticancer activity of melanin pigment was assayed against skin cancer cell line using MTT assay. The IC₅₀ value was 16.34 ± 1.31 μg/ml for melanin and 8.8 ± 0.5 μg/ml for standard 5-fluorouracil.

Ultraviolet radiation, aging and the skin: prevention of damage by topical cAMP manipulation

Being the largest and most visible organ of the body and heavily influenced by environmental factors, skin is ideal to study the long-term effects of aging. Throughout our lifetime, we accumulate damage generated by UV radiation. UV causes inflammation, immune changes, physical changes, impaired wound healing and DNA damage that promotes cellular senescence and carcinogenesis. Melanoma is the deadliest form of skin cancer and among the malignancies of highest increasing incidence over the last several decades. Melanoma incidence is directly related to age, with highest rates in individuals over the age of 55 years, making it a clear age-related disease. In this review, we will focus on UV-induced carcinogenesis and photo aging along with natural protective mechanisms that reduce amount of “realized” solar radiation dose and UV-induced injury. We will focus on the theoretical use of forskolin, a plant-derived pharmacologically active compound to protect the skin against UV injury and prevent aging symptoms by up-regulating melanin production. We will discuss its use as a topically-applied root-derived formulation of the Plectranthus barbatus (Coleus forskolii) plant that grows naturally in Asia and that has long been used in various Aryuvedic teas and therapeutic preparations.

UV radiation and the skin

UV radiation (UV) is classified as a "complete carcinogen" because it is both a mutagen and a non-specific damaging agent and has properties of both a tumor initiator and a tumor promoter. In environmental abundance, UV is the most important modifiable risk factor for skin cancer and many other environmentally-influenced skin disorders. However, UV also benefits human health by mediating natural synthesis of vitamin D and endorphins in the skin, therefore UV has complex and mixed effects on human health. Nonetheless, excessive exposure to UV carries profound health risks, including atrophy, pigmentary changes, wrinkling and malignancy. UV is epidemiologically and molecularly linked to the three most common types of skin cancer, basal cell carcinoma, squamous cell carcinoma and malignant melanoma, which together affect more than a million Americans annually. Genetic factors also influence risk of UV-mediated skin disease. Polymorphisms of the melanocortin 1 receptor (MC1R) gene, in particular, correlate with fairness of skin, UV sensitivity, and enhanced cancer risk. We are interested in developing UV-protective approaches based on a detailed understanding of molecular events that occur after UV exposure, focusing particularly on epidermal melanization and the role of the MC1R in genome maintenance.

Effect of Supplemented and Topically Applied Antioxidant Substances on Human Tissue

Systemic and topical application of antioxidant substances for the medical treatment and prophylaxis of many diseases as well as additional protection of the skin against the destructive action of free radicals and other reactive species has become very popular during the past years. Stimulated by the positive results of a fruit and vegetable diet in supporting medical treatment and in cosmetics, artificial and extracted antioxidant substances have been broadly applied. Surprisingly, not only positive but also strong negative results have been obtained by different authors. According to study reports artificial and extracted antioxidant substances support different kinds of medical therapies, if they are applied in mixtures of different compounds at low concentration levels. In the case of the application of high concentration of some single compounds, side effects were often observed. Regarding skin treatment by systemically applied antioxidant substances for cosmetic purposes, positive cosmetic effects as well as no effects, but almost no side effects, apart from a number of allergic reactions, were reported. One reason for this seems to be the lower concentration of systemically applied antioxidant substances in comparison with a medical application. Topical application of antioxidant substances is closely related to cosmetic treatment for skin protection and anti-aging. Positive results were also obtained in this case. The present review is an attempt to classify and summarize the published literature concerning the efficiency of action of systemic and topical applications of antioxidant substances, such as carotenoids and vitamins, on human organism and especially on the skin. The available literature on this topic is very extensive and the results are often contradictory. Nevertheless, there are some clear tendencies concerning systemic and topical application of antioxidant substances in medicine and cosmetics, and we summarize them in the present paper.

A polypeptide from Chlamys farreri abolishes UV-induced apoptosis in murine thymocytes in vitro

Previously we reported that a polypeptide from Chlamys farreri (PCF) was a potent photoprotective agent against ultraviolet (UV) irradiation in vitro. To understand the mechanism by which PCF protects cells from irradiation, we studied anti-apoptotic effects of PCF against UV irradiation on the murine thymocytes in vitro. MTT and flow cytometric analysis assays showed that 2h pretreatment with PCF completely abolished UV induced cell death. TEM examination showed that PCF fully protected the ultrastructure of thymocytes exposed to UV irradiation. Lipid peroxidation and intracellular reactive oxygen species assays indicated that PCF efficiently blocked production of reactive oxygen intermediates induced by UV irradiation. Further, PCF protected UV-irradiated thymocytes from losing mitochondrial transmembrane potential and DNA fragmentation. Based on these observations we propose that PCF is a potent anti-apoptotic factor, which protects cells from irradiation at multiple steps.

Inhibition of Enzyme Activities and the Antiwrinkle Effect of Polyphenol Isolated from the Persimmon Leaf (Diospyros kaki folium) on Human Skin

BACKGROUND

Many studies have been conducted to find a natural material that has high biologic functions for human skin without any side effects. Persimmon leaf has a substantial amount of tannins in different forms; therefore, it was selected as a target material.

OBJECTIVE

The biosynthesis rate of the collagen was also investigated to clarify the beneficial functions for the human skin.

METHODS

Persimmon leaves were obtained, extracted with 80% ethanol, and isolated into PFs I, II, and III after column chromatography using a Sephadex LH-20 column followed by thin-layer chromatography.

RESULTS

The xanthine oxidase inhibition effect of both PFs II and III was over 40% at a 100 ppm concentration. PF II, containing higher flavonoids levels, had a significantly higher tyrosinase inhibition than that of PF III. Collagenase inhibition was 16.3 and 8.1% for PF III and PF II, respectively, at 100 ppm. On the other hand, elastase inhibition activity was significantly higher in PF II than PF III. Collagen biosynthesis rates of PF III were over 25% from a 1 to 10 ppm concentration. Consequently, PFs isolated from the persimmon leaf can be used as natural materials or additives for human skin owing to their beneficial biologic functions, including the antiwrinkle effect and the inhibition of skin problems, for food or cosmetic compositions.

Topical antioxidant vitamins C and E prevent UVB-radiation-induced peroxidation of eicosapentaenoic acid in pig skin

Eicosapentaenoic acid protects against UV-radiation-induced immunosuppression and photocarcinogenesis, but it is also prone to oxidative degradation, which may reduce or abolish its beneficial effects. The protective effect of topically applied vitamin E, vitamin C, or both against UVB-radiation-induced lipid peroxidation in the presence of eicosapentaenoic acid was investigated using an ex vivo pig skin model. Changes in the bioavailability of both antioxidants induced by UV radiation were studied in different skin compartments. The UVB-radiation dose used (25 kJ/m2) was similar to that required to induce immunosuppression in BALB/c mice. Exposure of pig skin with an epidermal eicosapentaenoic acid content of 1.0 +/- 0.3 mol% to UVB radiation resulted in an 85% increase of epidermal lipid peroxidation (P < 0.005). Topical application of vitamin E or vitamin C 60 min prior to UVB irradiation resulted in a major increase in both antioxidants in the stratum corneum and viable epidermis (P < 0.05). Vitamin E and vitamin C completely protected against UVB-radiation-induced lipid peroxidation (P < 0.005), but compared to vitamin E, a 500-fold higher vitamin C dose was needed. UVB irradiation induced a vitamin E consumption of up to 100% in the stratum corneum and viable epidermis, and a vitamin C consumption of only 21% in the stratum corneum. Simultaneously applied vitamin E and vitamin C also completely protected against UVB-radiation-induced lipid peroxidation (P < 0.05), and lower antioxidant doses were needed compared to vitamin E or vitamin C alone. In the presence of vitamin C, epidermal vitamin E was more stable upon UVB irradiation (P < 0.05), suggesting interaction between vitamin E and vitamin C. In conclusion, topically applied vitamin E and/or vitamin C efficiently protect against UVB-radiation-induced lipid peroxidation in the presence of eicosapentaenoic acid. The beneficial biological effects of eicosapentaenoic acid may therefore be improved if vitamin E and/or vitamin C are present in sufficient amounts. The ex vivo pig skin model provides a useful tool for assessing short-term biochemical effects related to UVB radiation, without the use of living experimental animals.

Skin pigmentation enhancers

The highest incidences of cancer are found in the skin, but endogenous pigmentation is associated with markedly reduced risk. Agents that enhance skin pigmentation have the potential to reduce both photodamage and skin cancer incidence. The purpose of this review is to evaluate agents that have the potential to increase skin pigmentation. These include topically applied substances that simulate natural pigmentation: dihydroxyacetone and melanins; and substances that stimulate the natural pigmentation process: psoralens with UVA (PUVA), dimethylsulfoxide (DMSO), L-tyrosine, L-Dopa, lysosomotropic agents, diacylglycerols, thymidine dinucleotides, DNA fragments, melanocyte stimulating hormone (MSH) analogs, 3-isobutyl-1-methylxanthine (IBMX), nitric oxide donors, and bicyclic monoterpene (BMT) diols. These agents are compared with regards to efficacy when administered to melanoma cells, normal human epidermal melanocytes, animal skin, and human skin. In addition, mechanisms of action are reviewed since these may reveal issues related to both efficacy and safety. Both dihydroxyacetone and topically applied melanins are presently available to the consumer, and both of these have been shown to provide some photoprotection. Of the pigmentation stimulators, only PUVA and MSH analogs have been tested extensively on humans, but there are concerns about the safety and side effects of both. At least some of the remaining pigmentation stimulators under development have the potential to safely induce a photoprotective tan.

Protection against ultraviolet B- and C-induced DNA damage and skin carcinogenesis by the flowers of Prunus persica extract

The ethanol extract of the flowers of Prunus persica (Ku-35) (50-200 microg/ml) was found to inhibit UVB- as well as UVC-induced DNA damage measured by the COMET assay in the skin fibroblast cell (NIH/3T3). In addition, Ku-35 inhibited UVB- or UVC-induced lipid peroxidation, especially against UVB-induced peroxidation at higher than 10 microg/ml. We also evaluated the protective effect of Ku-35 against UVB-induced non-melanoma skin cancer in mice. Ku-35 was applied topically before UVB exposure, and its effects on tumor incidence (% of mice with tumors) and tumor multiplicity (number of tumors per mouse) were evaluated. The application of Ku-35 clearly resulted in a delay of tumor development compared to the control. In tumor incidence, 100% mice in the control group and the low dose treatment of Ku-35 had tumors, whereas 94.1% of the mice had tumors after the high dose treatment of Ku-35 at the end of experiment (28 weeks). In tumor multiplicity, low and high treatments of Ku-35 resulted in 25.9 and 53.9% reduction at the end of the experiment (P<0.05, one-way analysis of variance (ANOVA)). The present data indicate that Ku-35 protects against photogenotoxicity in NIH/3T3 fibroblasts. The possible action mechanism of Ku-35 may be through its anti-oxidant activity without pro-oxidant effect. Ku-35 can also show a delay of tumor development against UVB-induced skin carcinogenesis. These results suggest that Ku-35 extract may be useful for protecting UV-induced DNA damage and carcinogenesis when topically applied.

Vitamin C inhibits the enzymatic activity of Streptococcus pneumoniae hyaluronate lyase

Enzyme activity measurement showed that L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C (Vc)) competitively inhibits the hyaluronan degradation by Streptococcus pneumoniae hyaluronate lyase. The complex crystal structure of this enzyme with Vc was determined at 2.0 A resolution. One Vc molecule was found to bind to the active site of the enzyme. The Vc carboxyl group provides the negative charges that lead the molecule into the highly positively charged cleft of the enzyme. The Vc ring system forms hydrophobic interactions with the side chain of Trp-292, which is one of the aromatic patch residues of this enzyme responsible for the selection of the cleavage sites on the substrate chain. The binding of Vc inhibits the substrate binding at hyaluronan 1, 2, and 3 (HA1, HA2, and HA3) catalytic positions. The high concentration of Vc in human tissues probably provides a low level of natural resistance to the pneumococcal invasion. This is the first time that Vc the direct inhibition on the bacterial "spreading factor" was reported, and Vc is also the first chemical that has been shown experimentally to have an inhibitory effect on bacterial hyaluronate lyase. These studies also highlight the possible structural requirement for the design of a stronger inhibitor of bacterial hyaluronate lyase.