Efficacy of Sunscreens Containing Pre-Tocopheryl in a Surviving Human Skin Model Submitted to UVA and B Radiation

Interaction between the microbiota and the skin barrier in aging skin: a comprehensive review

The interplay between the microbes and the skin barrier holds pivotal significance in skin health and aging. The skin and gut, both of which are critical immune and neuroendocrine system, harbor microbes that are kept in balance. Microbial shifts are seen with aging and may accelerate age-related skin changes. This comprehensive review investigates the intricate connection between microbe dynamics, skin barrier, and the aging process. The gut microbe plays essential roles in the human body, safeguarding the host, modulating metabolism, and shaping immunity. Aging can perturb the gut microbiome which in turn accentuates inflammaging by further promoting senescent cell accumulation and compromising the host's immune response. Skin microbiota diligently upholds the epidermal barrier, adeptly fending off pathogens. The aging skin encompasses alterations in the stratum corneum structure and lipid content, which negatively impact the skin's barrier function with decreased moisture retention and increased vulnerability to infection. Efficacious restoration of the skin barrier and dysbiosis with strategic integration of acidic cleansers, emollients with optimal lipid composition, antioxidants, and judicious photoprotection may be a proactive approach to aging. Furthermore, modulation of the gut-skin axis through probiotics, prebiotics, and postbiotics emerges as a promising avenue to enhance skin health as studies have substantiated their efficacy in enhancing hydration, reducing wrinkles, and fortifying barrier integrity. In summary, the intricate interplay between microbes and skin barrier function is intrinsically woven into the tapestry of aging. Sound understanding of these interactions, coupled with strategic interventions aimed at recalibrating the microbiota and barrier equilibrium, holds the potential to ameliorate skin aging. Further in-depth studies are necessary to better understand skin-aging and develop targeted strategies for successful aging.

A new dermocosmetic containing retinaldehyde, delta-tocopherol glucoside and glycylglycine oleamide for managing naturally aged skin: results from in vitro to clinical studies

INTRODUCTION

Natural aging of skin tissues, the addition of the cumulative action of the time and radiation exposure result in skin atrophy, wrinkles and degeneration of the extracellular matrix (ECM). The aim of the study was to investigate the beneficial effect of a combination containing retinaldehyde (RAL), delta-tocopherol glucoside (delta-TC) and glycylglycine ole-amide (GGO) and of a dermocosmetic containing the combination.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The protective effect of the combination was assessed through in vitro gene expression of ultraviolet (UV)-irradiated fibroblasts. A skin aging assay using UV light on ex vivo skin samples and a clinical study conducted in 36 women aged from 35 to 55 years with a minimum of level 4 to a maximum of level 6 on the crow's feet photoscale assessed the antiaging effect of the dermocosmetic.

RESULTS

When added to UV-irradiated fibroblasts, the combination substantially improved the ECM in activating the elastin fiber production (fibrillin 2, fibulin 1 and 5 and lysyl oxidase-like 2) as well as that of proteins involved in the cellular ECM interactions (integrin b1, paxillin and actin a2). An ex vivo photodamaged human skin model showed that the dermocosmetic formulation containing the combination of the active ingredients protected the elastic network against UV-induced alterations including both elastin and fibrillin-rich fibers in the dermis. A daily application of the dermocosmetic for 2 months on naturally aged skin resulted in a statistically significant improvement (p<0.05) of visible signs of aging comprising crow's feet, wrinkles and periocular fine lines. Finally, the formulation was well tolerated.

CONCLUSION

The dermocosmetic containing RAL, delta-TC and GGO provides a substantial benefit in the daily care of naturally aged skin in women aged 35-55 years.

Cerium oxide nanoparticles, combining antioxidant and UV shielding properties, prevent UV-induced cell damage and mutagenesis

Efficient inorganic UV shields, mostly based on refracting TiO2 particles, have dramatically changed the sun exposure habits. Unfortunately, health concerns have emerged from the pro-oxidant photocatalytic effect of UV-irradiated TiO2, which mediates toxic effects on cells. Therefore, improvements in cosmetic solar shield technology are a strong priority. CeO2 nanoparticles are not only UV refractors but also potent biological antioxidants due to the surface 3+/4+ valency switch, which confers anti-inflammatory, anti-ageing and therapeutic properties. Herein, UV irradiation protocols were set up, allowing selective study of the extra-shielding effects of CeO2vs. TiO2 nanoparticles on reporter cells. TiO2 irradiated with UV (especially UVA) exerted strong photocatalytic effects, superimposing their pro-oxidant, cell-damaging and mutagenic action when induced by UV, thereby worsening the UV toxicity. On the contrary, irradiated CeO2 nanoparticles, via their Ce(3+)/Ce(4+) redox couple, exerted impressive protection on UV-treated cells, by buffering oxidation, preserving viability and proliferation, reducing DNA damage and accelerating repair; strikingly, they almost eliminated mutagenesis, thus acting as an important tool to prevent skin cancer. Interestingly, CeO2 nanoparticles also protect cells from the damage induced by irradiated TiO2, suggesting that these two particles may also complement their effects in solar lotions. CeO2 nanoparticles, which intrinsically couple UV shielding with biological and genetic protection, appear to be ideal candidates for next-generation sun shields.

Nitroxides and a nitroxide-based UV filter have the potential to photoprotect UVA-irradiated human skin fibroblasts against oxidative damage

BACKGROUND

Antioxidants are now being incorporated into sunscreens as additional topical measure for delaying the aging process and reducing photo-damage to skin induced by excessive UVA exposure. UVA radiation reaching the skin leads to the generation of ROS (reactive oxygen species) implicated in DNA damage and activation of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) responsible for collagen damage and photo-aging. Nitroxides are a class of compounds endowed with versatile antioxidant activity and recently, nitroxide-based UV filters in which a nitroxide moiety has been attached to the most popular UV filter present in sunscreens have been developed.

OBJECTIVE

This study explores the potential photo-protective effects of these compounds on ROS production and induction of MMP-1 in cultured human dermal fibroblasts exposed to UVA. For comparison, vitamin E was also tested.

METHODS

The effects were assessed by measuring intracellular ROS production using a ROS-index probe and MMP-1 mRNA expression levels using quantitative real-time PCR (qPCR).

RESULTS

Exposure of fibroblasts to 18J/cm(2) UVA lead to a two-fold increase in ROS production which was reduced to non-irradiated control levels in the presence of 50μM nitroxide compounds and vitamin E. Under the same conditions, a ten-fold increase in MMP-1 mRNA expression levels was observed 24h post-UVA treatment which was significantly reduced by all nitroxide compounds but not vitamin E.

CONCLUSION

The results of this study support the potential use of nitroxide compounds, including novel nitroxide-based UV filters, as a useful and alternative strategy for improving the efficacy of topical formulations against photo-aging and possibly photo-carcinogenesis.

In vitro photostability and photoprotection studies of a novel 'multi-active' UV-absorber

This paper reports on the synthesis and properties of a new UV-absorber (OC-NO) based on the most popular UV filter worldwide, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) in which the methoxy group has been replaced with a pyrrolidine nitroxide bearing antioxidant activity. This sunscreen active has therefore both UV-absorbing and antioxidant properties which could ideally address both the UV-B and UV-A skin photo-damage. For broad-spectrum coverage, the combinations of OC-NO with two commonly used UV-A absorbers (BMDBM and DHHB) were also studied. The results obtained reveal that OC-NO: (a) is as photostable as OMC after UV-A exposure; (b) acts as free radical scavenger as demonstrated by EPR and chemical studies; (c) reduces UV-A and UV-A+BMDBM induced lipid peroxidation in liposomes and cells, measured as reduced TBARS levels and increased C11-BODIPY red fluorescence, respectively; (d) has comparable antioxidant activity to that of vitamin E and BHT commonly used in skin care formulations; (e) is non-cytotoxic to human skin fibroblasts as assessed with the MTT assay when exposed to increasing doses of UV-A; and (f) OC-NO+DHHB is a promising, photostable broad spectrum UV-filter combination that concomitantly reduces UV-induced free radical damage. These results suggest that nitroxide/antioxidant-based UV-absorbers may pave the way for the utilization of 'multi-active' ingredients in sunscreens thereby reducing the number of ingredients in these formulations.

Inhibition of nitric oxide and reactive oxygen species production improves the ability of a sunscreen to protect from sunburn, immunosuppression and photocarcinogenesis

BACKGROUND

More effective strategies are required for the prevention of skin cancer, which is caused by ultraviolet (UV) radiation in sunlight. Sunscreens containing UV filters or reflectors offer some protection from sunlight. Pharmacologically active compounds that reduce UV damage offer considerable potential for improving sunscreen formulations. However, few studies have investigated whether the addition of such biological modifiers are an improvement.

OBJECTIVES

In this study we supplemented a 2-ethyl hexyl methoxycinnamate-based sunscreen with the nitric oxide (NO) inhibitor NG-monomethyl-L-arginine acetate, the iron chelator 2,2'-dipyridyl, which reduces reactive oxygen species (ROS) production, or both. This was to determine whether inhibition of NO, ROS, or both could improve photoprotection by a sunscreen.

METHODS

These sunscreens were compared for photoprotection from sunburn, immunosuppression and skin carcinogenesis in mice. To observe additional photoprotection by the NO and ROS inhibitors, UV doses were used that exceeded the protective capacity of the sunscreen.

RESULTS

The combined inhibition of both NO and ROS production, but neither alone, increased sunscreen protection from sunburn and immunosuppression. Similarly, inhibition of both NO and ROS but neither alone reduced tumour multiplicity and incidence, therefore improving sunscreen protection from photocarcinogenesis.

CONCLUSIONS

Whether NO and ROS inhibition were independently improving sunscreen photoprotection, with both being required for an observable effect, or whether inhibition of an interaction between NO and ROS was responsible for improved photoprotection by the sunscreen is unknown. These studies show that supplementation of a sunscreen with inhibitors of NO and ROS production improves the ability of the sunscreen to protect from sunburn, immunosuppression and photocarcinogenesis. Such an approach may be useful for reducing skin cancer incidence in humans.