Enhancement of Exfoliating Effects through the Novel Cosmetic Ingredient Mandelic acid_Carnitine Ion-Pairing Complex

PURPOSE

This study aimed to develop a novel exfoliating material with high efficacy and low irritation by synthesizing the Mandelic acid_Carnitine ion pairing complex (M_C complex) and evaluating its exfoliating properties. Additionally, the study assessed the skin improvement effects of the M_C complex through clinical evaluations.

METHODS

The M_C complex was synthesized in a 1:1 molar ratio of Mandelic acid and Carnitine. Structural characterization was performed using dynamic light scattering and Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy. Exfoliating efficacy was evaluated on porcine skin, and clinical assessments were conducted on human subjects to measure various skin improvement parameters.

RESULTS

The formation of the M_C complex was confirmed through particle size analysis, zeta-potential measurements, and FT-IR spectroscopy. The M_C complex demonstrated superior exfoliating efficacy compared to Mandelic acid alone, especially at pH 4.5. Clinical evaluations showed significant improvements in blackheads, whiteheads, pore volume, depth, density, count, and affected area, as well as skin texture. No adverse reactions were observed.

CONCLUSION

The M_C complex exhibits high exfoliating efficacy and minimal irritation, making it a promising cosmetic ingredient for improving skin health. These findings support its potential as a low-irritation exfoliating material under mildly acidic conditions, contributing to overall skin health enhancement.

An overview about oxidation in clinical practice of skin aging

Free radicals are unstable chemical species, highly reactive, being formed by cellular entities of different tissues. Increased production of these species without proper effective action of endogenous and exogenous antioxidant systems, generates a condition of oxidative stress, potentially provider of skin disorders that extend from functional impairments (skin cancer, dermatitis, chronic and acute inflammatory processes) even aesthetic character, with the destruction of structural proteins and cellular changes with the appearance of stains, marks and lines of expressions and other signs inherent to the intrinsic and extrinsic skin aging process. The antioxidants are chemical substances commonly used in clinical practice for topical application and may contribute in the fight against the radical species responsible for many skin damage. This paper summarized the main evidence of the benefits brought by the topical application of antioxidants in the skin, considering the amplitude of the indicative performance of antioxidant activity by in vitro and ex-vivo tests as well as in vivo tests. It is recognized that a breadth of product performance tests should be explored to truly identify the effectiveness of antioxidant products for an anti-aging effect.

Transdermal iontophoretic drug delivery: advances and challenges

The stratum corneum continues to pose considerable impediment to transdermal drug delivery. One of the effective ways of circumventing this challenge is through the use of iontophoresis. Iontophoresis uses low-level current to drive charged compounds across the skin. This review discusses progress made in the field of iontophoretic transport of small and large molecules. The major obstacles are also touched upon and advances made in the last few decades described. A number of iontophoretic systems approved for clinical use by regulatory authorities is also discussed.

Skin permeation enhancement effects of the gel and whole-leaf materials of Aloe vera, Aloe marlothii and Aloe ferox

OBJECTIVES

The aim of this study was to investigate the in-vitro permeation enhancement effects of the gel and whole-leaf materials of Aloe vera, Aloe marlothii and Aloe ferox using ketoprofen as a marker compound.

METHODS

The permeation studies were conducted across excised female abdominal skin in Franz diffusion cells, and the delivery of ketoprofen into the stratum corneum-epidermis and epidermis-dermis layers of the skin was investigated using a tape-stripping technique.

KEY FINDINGS

A. vera gel showed the highest permeation-enhancing effect on ketoprofen (enhancement ratio or ER = 2.551) when compared with the control group, followed by A. marlothii gel (ER = 1.590) and A. ferox whole-leaf material (ER = 1.520). Non-linear curve fitting calculations indicated that the drug permeation-enhancing effect of A. vera gel can be attributed to an increased partitioning of the drug into the skin, while A. ferox whole leaf modified the diffusion characteristics of the skin for ketoprofen. The tape stripping results indicated that A. marlothii whole leaf delivered the highest concentration of the ketoprofen into the different skin layers.

CONCLUSIONS

Of the selected aloe species investigated, A. vera gel material showed the highest potential as transdermal drug penetration enhancer across human skin.