A Clinical Anti-Ageing Comparative Study of 0.3 and 0.5% Retinol Serums: A Clinically Controlled Trial

Cosmetic retinoid use in photoaged skin: A review of the compounds, their use and mechanisms of action

The inevitable attrition of skin due to ultraviolet radiation, termed photoaging, can be partially restored by treatment with retinoid compounds. Photoaged skin in lightly pigmented individuals, clinically presents with the appearance of wrinkles, increased laxity, and hyper- and hypopigmentation. Underlying these visible signs of ageing are histological features such as epidermal thinning, dermal-epidermal junction flattening, solar elastosis and loss of the dermal fibrillin microfibrillar network, fibrillar collagen and glycosaminoglycans. Retinoid compounds are comprised of three main generations with the first generation (all-trans retinoic acid, retinol, retinaldehyde and retinyl esters) primarily used for the clinical and cosmetic treatment of photoaging, with varying degrees of efficacy, tolerance and stability. All-trans retinoic acid is considered the 'gold standard' for skin rejuvenation; however, it is a prescription-only product largely confined to clinical use. Therefore, retinoid derivatives are readily incorporated into cosmeceutical formulations. The literature reported in this review suggests that retinol, retinyl esters and retinaldehyde that are used in many cosmeceutical products, are efficacious, safe and well-tolerated. Once in the skin, retinoids utilize a complex signalling pathway that promotes remodelling of photoaged epidermis and dermis and leads to the improvement of the cutaneous signs of photoaging.

Ferulic acid in synergy with retinol alleviates oxidative injury of HaCaT cells during UVB-induced photoaging

Application of retinol (Vitamin A, VA) in skincare is limited for instability, poor water solubility, and skin intolerance that combats skin aging. We employed computer-aided virtual screening and cell experiments with transcriptomics, thereby unveiling the comprehensive gene expression and regulation pathway of photoaging HaCaT cell treated with ferulic acid (FA) in synergizing with VA. Through network pharmacology analysis, the combined use of VA and FA exhibited highly correlated cross-targets with skin aging acting on EGFR, PTPN1, ESR2, GSK3B, BACE1, PYGL, PTGS2 and APP. The indicators of oxidative stress, such as SOD, GSH, MDA, CAT and ROS in HaCaT cells after co-administration, were significantly improved from those in photoaging group (p<0.0001). 155 differential expressed genes (DEGs) were specific between groups, while reducing the expression of PTGS2 was identified as an important regulatory factor in photoaging HaCaT cells by VA and FA. Those DEGs of co-administration group focused on oxidative-reduction enzyme activity, skin growth, keratinization, and steroid biosynthesis. Apparently, the co-administration of VA and FA effectively mitigated the process of UVB-induced photoaging by reducing oxidative stress injury, inflammation responses, and regulating cell growth. This synergistic approach significantly slowed down the photoaging progression and improved the applied performance of VA in HaCaT cells.

Multifaceted amelioration of cutaneous photoageing by (0.3%) retinol

BACKGROUND

Although retinol skin care products improve the appearance of photoaged skin, there is a need for an effective retinol concentration that provides skin benefits without irritation.

OBJECTIVE

To compare the efficacy of topical 0.1%, 0.3% and 1% retinol in remodelling the cutaneous architecture in an in vivo experimental patch test study, and to determine tolerance of the most effective formulations when used in a daily in-use escalation study.

METHODS

For the patch test study, retinol products were applied under occlusion, to the extensor forearm of photoaged volunteers (n = 5; age range 66-84 years), and 3 mm skin biopsies obtained after 12 days. Effects of different retinol concentrations, and a vehicle control, on key epidermal and dermal biomarkers of cellular proliferation and dermal remodelling were compared to untreated baseline. Separately, participants (n = 218) recorded their tolerance to 0.3% or 1% retinol over a six-week, approved regimen, which gradually increased the facial applications to once nightly.

RESULTS

Retinol treatment induced a stepwise increase in epidermal thickness and induced the expression of stratum corneum proteins, filaggrin and KPRP. 0.3% retinol and 1% retinol were comparably effective at inducing keratinocyte proliferation in the epidermis, whilst reducing e-cadherin expression. Fibrillin-rich microfibril deposition was increased following treatment with 0.3% and 1% retinol (p < 0.01); other dermal components remained unaltered (e.g., fibronectin, collagen fibrils, elastin), and no evidence of local inflammation was detected. The in-use study found that 0.3% retinol was better tolerated than 1% retinol, with fewer and milder adverse events reported (χ² (1) = 23.97; p < 0.001).

CONCLUSIONS

This study suggests that 1% and 0.3% retinol concentrations were similarly effective at remodelling photodamaged skin in an in vivo model of long-term use. Use of 0.3% retinol in the escalation study was associated with fewer adverse reactions when applied daily. Hence, 0.3% retinol may be better tolerated than 1% retinol, thereby allowing longer-term topical application.