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Quarmby A, Zhang M, Geisler M, Javorsky T, Mugele H, Cassel M, Lawley J. Risk factors and injury prevention strategies for overuse injuries in adult climbers: a systematic review. Front Sports Act Living 2023; 5:1269870. [PMID: 38162697 PMCID: PMC10756908 DOI: 10.3389/fspor.2023.1269870] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 07/31/2023] [Accepted: 11/09/2023] [Indexed: 01/03/2024] Open
Abstract
Introduction Climbing is an increasingly popular activity and imposes specific physiological demands on the human body, which results in unique injury presentations. Of particular concern are overuse injuries (non-traumatic injuries). These injuries tend to present in the upper body and might be preventable with adequate knowledge of risk factors which could inform about injury prevention strategies. Research in this area has recently emerged but has yet to be synthesized comprehensively. Therefore, the aim of this study was to conduct a systematic review of the potential risk factors and injury prevention strategies for overuse injuries in adult climbers. Methods This systematic review was conducted in accordance with the PRISMA guidelines. Databases were searched systematically, and articles were deemed eligible based upon specific criteria. Research included was original and peer-reviewed, involving climbers, and published in English, German or Czech. Outcomes included overuse injury, and at least one or more variable indicating potential risk factors or injury prevention strategies. The methodological quality of the included studies was assessed with the Downs and Black Quality Index. Data were extracted from included studies and reported descriptively for population, climbing sport type, study design, injury definition and incidence/prevalence, risk factors, and injury prevention strategies. Results Out of 1,183 records, a total of 34 studies were included in the final analysis. Higher climbing intensity, bouldering, reduced grip/finger strength, use of a "crimp" grip, and previous injury were associated with an increased risk of overuse injury. Additionally, a strength training intervention prevented shoulder and elbow injuries. BMI/body weight, warm up/cool downs, stretching, taping and hydration were not associated with risk of overuse injury. The evidence for the risk factors of training volume, age/years of climbing experience, and sex was conflicting. Discussion This review presents several risk factors which appear to increase the risk of overuse injury in climbers. Strength and conditioning, load management, and climbing technique could be targeted in injury prevention programs, to enhance the health and wellbeing of climbing athletes. Further research is required to investigate the conflicting findings reported across included studies, and to investigate the effectiveness of injury prevention programs. Systematic Review Registration https://www.crd.york.ac.uk/, PROSPERO (CRD42023404031).
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Affiliation(s)
- Andrew Quarmby
- Sports Medicine & Sports Orthopaedics, University of Potsdam, University Outpatient Clinic, Potsdam, Germany
| | - Martin Zhang
- Department of Sports Science, Division of Performance Physiology and Prevention, University of Innsbruck, Innsbruck, Austria
| | - Moritz Geisler
- Department of Sports Science, Division of Performance Physiology and Prevention, University of Innsbruck, Innsbruck, Austria
| | - Tomas Javorsky
- Department of Sports Science, Division of Performance Physiology and Prevention, University of Innsbruck, Innsbruck, Austria
| | - Hendrik Mugele
- Department of Sports Science, Division of Performance Physiology and Prevention, University of Innsbruck, Innsbruck, Austria
| | - Michael Cassel
- Sports Medicine & Sports Orthopaedics, University of Potsdam, University Outpatient Clinic, Potsdam, Germany
| | - Justin Lawley
- Department of Sports Science, Division of Performance Physiology and Prevention, University of Innsbruck, Innsbruck, Austria
- EURAC Research, Institute for Mountain Emergency Medicine, Bolzano, Italy
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Kwakye SK, Mostert K, Garnett D, Masenge A. Risk factors associated with football injury among male players from a specific academy in Ghana: a pilot study. Sci Rep 2023; 13:8070. [PMID: 37202453 DOI: 10.1038/s41598-023-34826-0] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 12/31/2022] [Accepted: 05/09/2023] [Indexed: 05/20/2023] Open
Abstract
There seems to be no information on the incidence of injury and associated risk factors for academy football players in Ghana. We determine the risk factors associated with match and training injuries among male football players at an academy in Ghana. Preseason measurements of players' height, weight, and ankle dorsiflexion (DF) range of motion (ROM) were measured with a stadiometer (Seca 213), a digital weighing scale (Omron HN-289), and tape measure, respectively. The functional ankle instability (FAI) of players was measured using the Cumberland Ankle Instability Tool (CAIT), and dynamic postural control was measured with the Star Excursion Balance Test. Injury surveillance data for all injuries were collected by resident physiotherapists throughout one season. Selected factors associated with injury incidence were tested using Spearman's rank correlation at a 5% significance level. Age was negatively associated with overall injury incidence (r = - 0.589, p = 0.000), match (r = - 0.294, p = 0.008), and training incidence (r = - 0.314, p = 0.005). Previous injury of U18s was associated with training injuries (r = 0.436, p = 0.023). Body mass index (BMI) was negatively associated with overall injury incidence (r = - 0.513, p = 0.000), and training incidence (r = - 0.395, p = 0.000). CAIT scores were associated with overall injury incidence (n = 0.263, p = 0.019) and match incidence (r = 0.263, p = 0.029). The goalkeeper position was associated with match incidence (r = 0.241, p = 0.031) while the U16 attacker position was associated with training incidence. Exposure hours was negatively associated with overall injury incidence (r = - 0.599, p = 0.000). Age, BMI, previous injury, goalkeeper and attacker positions, ankle DF ROM, and self-reported FAI were associated with injury incidence among academy football players in Ghana.
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Affiliation(s)
- Samuel Koranteng Kwakye
- Department of Physiotherapy, Faculty of Health Sciences, University of Pretoria, Pretoria, South Africa.
| | - Karien Mostert
- Department of Physiotherapy, Faculty of Health Sciences, University of Pretoria, Pretoria, South Africa
| | - Daniel Garnett
- Department of Sport, Health Sciences and Social Work, Faculty of Health and Life Sciences, Oxford Brookes University, Oxford, UK
| | - Andries Masenge
- Department of Statistics, University of Pretoria, Pretoria, South Africa
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Villarón-Casales C, Aladro-Gonzalvo AR, Gámez-Payá J, Pardo-Ibáñez A, Domínguez-Navarro F, Gallego D, Alarcón-Jimenez J. Static Postural Control during Single-Leg Stance in Endurance, Team and Combat Athletes from the Spanish National Sport Technification Program. INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF ENVIRONMENTAL RESEARCH AND PUBLIC HEALTH 2023; 20:4292. [PMID: 36901298 PMCID: PMC10001565 DOI: 10.3390/ijerph20054292] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Figures] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 01/19/2023] [Revised: 02/22/2023] [Accepted: 02/26/2023] [Indexed: 06/18/2023]
Abstract
In the context of pediatric physical exercise, the analysis of factors affecting postural control (PC) provides insight into the development of sport-specific motor skills. This study aims to evaluate the static PC during single-leg stance in endurance, team and combat athletes from the Spanish National Sport Technification Program. A total of 29 boys and 32 girls, aged 12 to 16 years old, were recruited. Centre of pressure (CoP) was measured on a force platform in standing position for 40 s under two sensorial and leg dominance conditions. Girls showed lower MVeloc (p < 0.001), MFreq (p > 0.001) and Sway (p < 0.001) values than boys in both sensorial conditions (open and closed eyes). The highest values in all PC variables were observed with eyes closed in both genders (p < 0.001). Sway values were lower in boys combat-athletes compared to endurance athletes in two sensorial conditions and with non-dominant leg (p < 0.05). Young athletes in their teens enrolled in a Sport Technification Program have shown differences in PC when comparing different visual conditions, sport disciplines and gender. This study opens a window to a better understanding of the determinants of PC during single-leg stance as a critical element in the sport specialization of young athletes.
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Affiliation(s)
- Carlos Villarón-Casales
- Biomechanics & Physiotherapy in Sports (BIOCAPS), Faculty of Health Sciences, Universidad Europea de Valencia, 46010 Valencia, Spain
| | - Arian Ramón Aladro-Gonzalvo
- Biomechanics & Physiotherapy in Sports (BIOCAPS), Faculty of Health Sciences, Universidad Europea de Valencia, 46010 Valencia, Spain
| | - Javier Gámez-Payá
- Biomechanics & Physiotherapy in Sports (BIOCAPS), Faculty of Health Sciences, Universidad Europea de Valencia, 46010 Valencia, Spain
| | - Alberto Pardo-Ibáñez
- Department of Physical Education and Sport, University of Valencia, 46010 Valencia, Spain
| | - Fernando Domínguez-Navarro
- Biomechanics & Physiotherapy in Sports (BIOCAPS), Faculty of Health Sciences, Universidad Europea de Valencia, 46010 Valencia, Spain
- Department of Physiotherapy, University of Valencia, 46010 Valencia, Spain
| | - Diana Gallego
- Biomechanics & Physiotherapy in Sports (BIOCAPS), Faculty of Health Sciences, Universidad Europea de Valencia, 46010 Valencia, Spain
| | - Jorge Alarcón-Jimenez
- Department of Physiotherapy, Universidad Católica de Valencia, 46900 Valencia, Spain
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Chandran A, Moffit RE, DeJong Lempke AF, Boltz AJ, Alexander AS, Robison HJ, Kerr ZY, Collins CL, Wikstrom EA. Epidemiology of Lateral Ligament Complex Tears of the Ankle in National Collegiate Athletic Association (NCAA) Sports: 2014-15 Through 2018-19. Am J Sports Med 2023; 51:169-178. [PMID: 36592020 DOI: 10.1177/03635465221138281] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Submit a Manuscript] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 01/03/2023]
Abstract
BACKGROUND Epidemiological studies of lateral ankle sprains in NCAA sports are important in appraising the burden of this injury and informing prevention efforts. PURPOSE To describe the epidemiology of lateral ankle sprains in NCAA sports during the 2014-15 through 2018-19 seasons. STUDY DESIGN Descriptive epidemiology study. METHODS Injury and exposure information collected within the NCAA Injury Surveillance Program (ISP) were examined. Counts, rates, and proportions of lateral ankle sprains were used to describe injury incidence by sport, event type (practices, competitions), season segment (preseason, regular season, postseason), injury mechanism (player contact, noncontact, and surface contact, injury history (new, recurrent), and time loss (time loss [≥1 day], non-time loss). Injury rate ratios (IRRs) were used to examine differential injury rates, and injury proportion ratios (IPRs) were used to examine differential distributions. RESULTS A total of 3910 lateral ankle sprains were reported (4.61 per 10,000 athlete exposures) during the study period, and the overall rate was highest in men's basketball (11.82 per 10,000 athlete exposures). The competition-related injury rate was higher than the practice-related rate (IRR, 3.24; 95% CI, 3.04-3.45), and across season segments, the overall rate was highest in preseason (4.99 per 10,000 athlete exposures). Lateral ankle sprains were most often attributed to player-contact mechanisms in men's (43.2%) and women's sports (35.1%), although injuries were more prevalently attributed to player contact in men's than in women's sports (IPR, 1.23; 95% CI, 1.13-1.34). Overall, 49.7% of all lateral ankle sprains were time loss injuries. CONCLUSIONS The findings of this study are consistent with previous epidemiological investigations of lateral ankle sprains among NCAA athletes. Results offer additional context on differential injury mechanisms between men's and women's sports and on injury risk across the competitive season. Future research may examine the effectiveness of deploying injury prevention programs before the start of a season.
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Affiliation(s)
- Avinash Chandran
- Datalys Center for Sports Injury Research and Prevention, Indianapolis, Indiana, USA
| | - Reagan E Moffit
- Datalys Center for Sports Injury Research and Prevention, Indianapolis, Indiana, USA
| | - Alexandra F DeJong Lempke
- Division of Sports Medicine, Boston Children's Hospital, Boston, Massachusetts, USA.,Micheli Center for Sports Injury Prevention, Waltham, Massachusetts, USA.,University of Michigan School of Kinesiology, Ann Arbor, Michigan, USA
| | - Adrian J Boltz
- Datalys Center for Sports Injury Research and Prevention, Indianapolis, Indiana, USA.,Michigan Concussion Center, University of Michigan, Ann Arbor, Michigan, USA
| | | | - Hannah J Robison
- Datalys Center for Sports Injury Research and Prevention, Indianapolis, Indiana, USA
| | - Zachary Yukio Kerr
- Department of Exercise and Sport Science, University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, Chapel Hill, North Carolina, USA
| | - Christy L Collins
- Datalys Center for Sports Injury Research and Prevention, Indianapolis, Indiana, USA
| | - Erik A Wikstrom
- Motion Science Institute, Department of Exercise and Sport Science, University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, Chapel Hill, North Carolina, USA
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Bigdon SF, Hecht V, Fairhurst PG, Deml MC, Exadaktylos AK, Albers CE. Injuries in alpine summer sports - types, frequency and prevention: a systematic review. BMC Sports Sci Med Rehabil 2022; 14:79. [PMID: 35501847 PMCID: PMC9063189 DOI: 10.1186/s13102-022-00468-4] [Citation(s) in RCA: 10] [Impact Index Per Article: 5.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 06/01/2021] [Accepted: 04/18/2022] [Indexed: 01/03/2023]
Abstract
Introduction Summer alpine sports, including mountain biking, hiking and airborne pursuits, have experienced a recent surge in popularity. Accordingly, trauma associated with these activities has increased. There is a scarcity of literature exploring clinical aspects surrounding injuries. Specifically, no single article provides a general overview, as individual studies tend to focus on one particular sport. In the present study, we performed a systematic literature review to summarize existing knowledge and explore the potential for prevention and clinical decision making in this group. Method Literature searches were performed using the PubMed and Scopus database for the most commonly ventured sports associated with injury: mountain biking, climbing, airborne sports, paragliding, and base jumping. From this search, studies were identified for qualitative and quantitative analyses. These searches were done according to PRISMA guidelines for systematic reviews. Studies were then analyzed regarding epidemiology of injuries, relevant anatomical considerations and prevention strategies were discussed. Results A broad spectrum of injury sites and mechanisms are seen in mountain biking, climbing or airborne sports. Mountain biking related injuries commonly involve the upper extremity, with fractures of the clavicle being the most common injury, followed by fractures of the hand and wrist. Scaphoid fractures remain of paramount importance in a differential diagnosis, given their often subtle clinical and radiological appearance. Paragliding, skydiving, and base jumping particularly affect transition areas of the spine, such as the thoracolumbar and the spinopelvic regions. Lower limb injuries were seen in equal frequency to spinal injuries. Regarding relative risk, mountain biking has the lowest risk for injuries, followed by climbing and airborne sports. Male alpinists are reported to be more susceptible to injuries than female alpinists. Generally, the literature surrounding hiking and water-related mountain sports is insufficient, and further work is required to elucidate injury mechanisms and effective preventative measures. A helmet seems to decrease the likelihood of face and head injuries in mountain sports and be a meaningful preventive measurement.
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Affiliation(s)
- Sebastian Frederick Bigdon
- Department of Orthopaedic Surgery and Traumatology, Inselspital, University Hospital, University of Bern, Freiburgstrasse, 3010, Bern, Switzerland.
| | - Verena Hecht
- Department of Orthopaedic Surgery and Traumatology, Inselspital, University Hospital, University of Bern, Freiburgstrasse, 3010, Bern, Switzerland
| | - Paul Gilbert Fairhurst
- Department of Orthopaedic Surgery and Traumatology, Inselspital, University Hospital, University of Bern, Freiburgstrasse, 3010, Bern, Switzerland
| | - Moritz C Deml
- Department of Orthopaedic Surgery and Traumatology, Inselspital, University Hospital, University of Bern, Freiburgstrasse, 3010, Bern, Switzerland
| | - Aristomenis K Exadaktylos
- Department of Emergency Medicine, Inselspital, University Hospital, University of Bern, Freiburgstrasse 16C, 3010, Bern, Switzerland
| | - Christoph E Albers
- Department of Orthopaedic Surgery and Traumatology, Inselspital, University Hospital, University of Bern, Freiburgstrasse, 3010, Bern, Switzerland
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