Safety and Antioxidant Efficacy Profiles of Rutin-Loaded Ethosomes for Topical Application

Lipid Nanovesicles for Antioxidant Delivery in Skin: Liposomes, Ufasomes, Ethosomes, and Niosomes

The skin, being the largest organ of the human body, serves as the primary barrier against external insults, including UV radiation, pollutants, and microbial pathogens. However, prolonged exposure to these environmental stressors can lead to the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), causing oxidative stress, inflammation, and ultimately, skin aging and diseases. Antioxidants play a crucial role in neutralizing ROS and preserving skin health by preventing oxidative damage. In recent years, nanotechnology has emerged as a powerful tool for enhancing the delivery of antioxidants onto the skin. In particular, liposomal formulations have offered unique advantages such as improved stability, controlled release, and enhanced penetration through the skin barrier. This has led to a surge in research focused on developing liposomal-based antioxidant delivery systems tailored for skin health applications. Through a comprehensive analysis of the literature from the 2019-2024 period, this review provides an overview of emerging trends in the use of liposomal delivery systems developed for antioxidants aimed at improving skin health. It explores the latest advancements in liposomal formulation strategies, vesicle characterization, and their applications in delivering antioxidants to combat oxidative stress-induced skin damage and other associated skin pathologies. A comparison of various delivery systems is conducted for the most common antioxidants. Finally, a brief analysis of lipid nanovesicles used in the cosmeceutical industry is provided.

The influence of rutin and chlorogenic acid on oxidative stress and in vivo fertility: Evaluation of the quality and antioxidant status of post-thaw semen from Azari water buffalo bulls

BACKGROUND

The vulnerability of buffalo sperm to cryoinjury necessitates the improvement of sperm cryo-resistance as a critical strategy for the widespread use of assisted reproductive technologies in buffalo.

OBJECTIVES

The main aim of the present study was to evaluate the effects of different concentrations of rutin and chlorogenic acid (CGA) on buffalo semen quality, antioxidant activity and fertility during cryopreservation.

METHODS

The semen was collected and pooled from the 3 buffaloes using an artificial vagina (18 ejaculations). The pooled sperm were divided into nine different groups: control (Tris-based extender); 0.4, 0.6, 0.8 and 1 mM rutin (rutin + Tris-based extender); and 50, 100, 150 and 200 µM CGG (CGA + Tris-based extender). Sperm kinematics, viability, hypo-osmotic swelling test, mitochondrial activity, antioxidant activities and malondialdehyde (MDA) concentration of frozen and thawed buffalo sperm were evaluated. In addition, 48 buffalo were finally inseminated, and pregnancy was rectally determined 1 month after insemination.

RESULTS

Compared to the control group, adding R-0.4, R-0.6, CGA-100 and CGA-150 can improve total and progressive motility, motility characteristics, viability, PMF and DNA damage in buffalo sperm. In addition, the results showed that R-0.4, R-0.6, CGA-50, CGA-100 and CGA-150 increased total antioxidant capacity, catalase, glutathione peroxidase and glutathione activities and decreased MDA levels compared to the control group. Furthermore, it has been shown that adding 150 µM CGA and 0.6 mM rutin to an extender can increase in vivo fertility compared to the control group.

CONCLUSIONS

In conclusion, adding rutin and CGA to the extender improves membrane stability and in vivo fertility of buffalo sperm by reducing oxidative stress.

Pharmacological insight of rutin as a potential candidate against peptic ulcer

Peptic ulcer is a sore on the stomach lining that results from the erosion of the gastrointestinal tract mucosa due to various influencing factors. Of these, Helicobacter pylori infection and non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) stand out as the most prominent causes. This condition poses a significant global health concern due to its widespread impact on individuals worldwide. While various treatment strategies have been employed, including proton pump inhibitors and histamine-2 receptor antagonists, these have notable side effects and limitations. Thus, there is a pressing need for new treatments to address this global health issue. Rutin, a natural flavonoid, exhibits a range of biological activities, including anti-inflammatory, anticancer, and antioxidant properties. This review explores the potential anti-ulcer effect of rutin in experimental models and how rutin can be a better alternative for treating peptic ulcers. We used published literature from different online databases such as PubMed, Google Scholar, and Scopus. This work highlights the abundance of rutin in various natural sources and its potential as a promising option for peptic ulcer treatment. Notably, the anti-inflammatory properties of rutin, which involve inhibiting inflammatory mediators and the COX-2 enzyme, are emphasized. While acknowledging the potential of rutin, it is important to underscore the necessity for further research to fully delineate its therapeutic potential and clinical applicability in managing peptic ulcers and ultimately improving patient outcomes. This review on the anti-ulcer potential of rutin opened a new door for further study in the field of alternative medicine in peptic ulcer management.

Rutin-Loaded Transethosomal Gel for Topical Application: A Comprehensive Analysis of Skin Permeation and Antimicrobial Efficacy

This study conducts a systematic investigation of the creation and optimization of a rutin-loaded transethosome intended for topical use. The formulation's characteristics were thoroughly assessed for vesicle size (160.45 ± 1.98 nm), polydispersity index (0.235 ± 0.067), and zeta potential (-22.89 mV), with an entrapment efficiency and drug loading of 89.99 ± 1.55% and 8.9 ± 2.11%, respectively, and found to have a spherical shape by the use of transmission electron microscopy. The conversion to a gel suitable for application on the skin was carried out. The drug release form Opt-RUT-TE formulation (73.61 ± 2.55%) was significantly higher than that of release form RUT-suspension (34.52 ± 1.19%). The drug that permeated the skin from Opt-RUT-TEG (935.25 ± 10.49 μg/cm2) was significantly higher than the permeability from RUT-Suspension gel (522.57 ± 6.79 μg/cm2). Notably, tape stripping analysis revealed that the Opt-RUT-TE gel effectively penetrated the skin layers, with a higher concentration observed in the epidermis-dermis than in the RUT-suspension gel. The transethosomal gel exhibited favorable characteristics, highlighting its capacity to efficiently permeate the skin and suppress the growth of microorganisms, and Opt-RUT-TEG showed a higher microorganism inhibition zone (Gram-positive bacteria) than that of RUT-suspension gel. The investigation highlights the significant therapeutic possibilities of rutin in a transethosomal gel formulation for treating dermatological diseases by improving skin permeability and exhibiting antibacterial effects.

Preparation and Preliminary Analysis of Several Nanoformulations Based on Plant Extracts and Biodegradable Polymers as a Possible Application for Chronic Venous Disease Therapy

Nanotechnology is one of the newest directions for plant-based therapies. Chronic venous disease often predisposes to long-term and invasive treatment. This research focused on the inclusion of vegetal extracts from Sophorae flos (SE), Calendulae flos (CE), and Ginkgo bilobae folium (GE) in formulations with PHB and PLGA polymers and their physicochemical characterization as a preliminary stage for possible use in the development of a complex therapeutic product. The samples were prepared by an oil-water emulsification and solvent evaporation technique, resulting in suspensions with high spreadability and a pH of 5.5. ATR-FTIR analysis revealed bands for stretching vibrations (O-H, C=O, and C-H in symmetric and asymmetric methyl and methylene) in the same regions as the base components, but switched to high or low wavenumbers and absorbance, highlighting the formation of adducts/complexes between the extracts and polymers. The obtained formulations were in the amorphous phase, as confirmed by XRD analysis. AFM analysis emphasized the morphological peculiarities of the extract-polymer nanoformulations. It could be noticed that, in the case of SE-based formulations, the dominant characteristics for SE-PHB and SE-PLGA composition were the formation of random large (SE-PHB) and smaller uniform (SE-PLGA) particles; further on, these particles tended to aggregate in the case of SE-PHB-PLGA. For the CE- and GE-based formulations, the dominant surface morphology was their porosity, generally with small pores, but larger cavities were observed in some cases (CE- and GE-PHB). The highest roughness values at the (8 µm × 8 μm) scale were found for the following samples and succession: CE-PHB < SE-PLGA < SE-PHB-PLGA. In addition, by thermogravimetric analysis, impregnation in the matrix of compression stockings was evaluated, which varied in the following order: CE-polymer > SE-polymer > GE-polymer. In conclusion, nine vegetal extract-polymer nanoformulations were prepared and preliminarily characterized (by advanced physicochemical methods) as a starting point for further optimization, stability studies, and possible use in complex pharmaceutical products.

Ethosomes: a potential nanovesicular carrier to enhancing the drug delivery against skin barriers

Ethosomes, which are liposomes like structures, mainly composed primarily of ethanol, have attracted considerable attention due to their potential to enhance the drug permeation via skin. The article discusses the formulation and preparation methods of ethosomes, offering insights into the various factors that influence their size, shape, and stability. Moreover, it explores the techniques used to assess the physicochemical properties of ethosomes and their impact on drug delivery effectiveness. The article also elucidates the mechanism by which ethosomes enhance skin permeation, emphasising their ability to modify the lipid structure and fluidity of the stratum corneum. Additionally, the review investigates the applications of ethosomes in diverse drug delivery scenarios, including the delivery of small molecules, peptides, and phytoconstituents. It highlights the potential of ethosomes to improve drug bioavailability, extend drug release, and achieve targeted delivery to specific skin layers or underlying tissues.

Unlocking the potential of cosmetic dermal delivery with ethosomes: A comprehensive review

BACKGROUND

In a world where hair loss, acne, and skin whitening are common concerns, ethosomes emerge as a captivating breakthrough in cosmetic drug delivery.

METHOD

This review provides a comprehensive overview of the ethosomal system and assesses its potential as an effective nanocarrier for delivering active ingredients to the skin. The focus is on exploring their applications in various pathologies, particularly skin disorders such as acne, hair loss, and skin pigmentation.

RESULTS

Ethosomes are a novel type of vesicular nanocarrier composed of high concentrations of ethanol (20-45%) and phospholipids. Their unique structure and composition make them an ideal choice for transporting active ingredients through the skin, offering targeted and effective treatment. The inclusion of ethanol in ethosomes' composition gives them distinctive properties, including flexibility, deformability, and stability, facilitating deep penetration into the skin and enhancing medication deposition. Moreover, ethosomes improved theoverall drug-loading capacity, and specificity of target treatment CONCLUSION: Ethosomes represent a unique and suitable approach for delivering active cosmetic ingredients in the treatment of hair loss, acne, and skin whitening, presenting a versatile alternative to traditional dermal delivery systems. Despite the challenges associated with their complex preparation and sensitivity to temperature and humidity, the remarkable potential benefits of ethosomes cannot be ignored. Further research is crucial to unlock their full potential, understand their limitations, and refine their formulations and administration methods. Ethosomes hold the promise of transforming the way we address these cosmetic concerns, offering an exciting glimpse into the future of advanced skincare solutions.

Biocompatible gliadin-sericin complex colloidal particles used for topical delivery of the antioxidant phloretin

Oxidative stress caused by environmental exposures results in numerous skin diseases. Phloretin (PHL) is often used to relieve various skin symptoms, however, precipitation or crystallization of PHL in aqueous systems limits its ability to diffuse through the stratum corneum, making it difficult to exert effect at the target. To address this challenge, we herein report a method for the generation of core-shell nanostructure (G-LSS) via the growth of sericin crust around gliadin nanoparticle as a topical nanocarrier of PHL to improve its cutaneous bioavailability. Physicochemical performance, morphology, stability, and antioxidant activity of the nanoparticles were characterized. G-LSS-PHL exhibited uniformed spherical nanostructures with the robust encapsulation on PHL (∼90 %). This strategy protected PHL from UV-induced degradation, facilitating to inhibit erythrocyte hemolysis and quench free radicals in a dose-dependent manner. Transdermal delivery experiments and porcine skin fluorescence imaging indicated that G-LSS facilitated the penetration of PHL across the epidermis layer of skin to reach deep-seated sites, and promoted cumulative turnover of PHL with a 2.0-fold increase. Cell cytotoxicity and uptake assay confirmed that as-prepared nanostructure was nontoxic to HSFs, and promoted cellular absorption of PHL. Therefore, this work opened up new promising avenues for developing robust antioxidant nanostructure for topical applications.

Rutin bioconjugates as potential nutraceutical prodrugs: An in vitro and in ovo toxicological screening

Rutin (RUT) is considered one the most attractive flavonoids from a therapeutic perspective due to its multispectral pharmacological activities including antiradical, anti-inflammatory, antiproliferative, and antimetastatic among others. Still, this compound presents a low bioavailability what narrows its clinical applications. To overcome this inconvenience, the current paper was focused on the synthesis, characterization, and toxicological assessment of two RUT bioconjugates obtained by enzymatic esterification with oleic acid (OA) and linoleic acid (LA)—rutin oleate (RUT-O) and rutin linoleate (RUT-L), as flavonoid precursors with improved physicochemical and biological properties. Following the enzymatic synthesis in the presence of Novozyme® 435, the two bioconjugates were obtained, their formation being confirmed by RAMAN and FT-IR spectroscopy. The in vitro and in ovo toxicological assessment of RUT bioconjugates (1–100 µM) was performed using 2D consecrated cell lines (cardiomyoblasts - H9c2(2-1), hepatocytes—HepaRG, and keratinocytes—HaCaT), 3D reconstructed human epidermis tissue (EpiDerm™), and chick chorioallantoic membranes, respectively. The results obtained were test compound, concentration—and cell-type dependent, as follows: RUT-O reduced the viability of H9c2(2-1), HepaRG, and HaCaT cells at 100 µM (to 77.53%, 83.17%, and 78.32%, respectively), and induced cell rounding and floating, as well as apoptotic-like features in the nuclei of all cell lines, whereas RUT-L exerted no signs of cytotoxicity in all cell lines in terms of cell viability, morphology, and nuclear integrity. Both RUT esters impaired the migration of HepaRG cells (at 25 µM) and lack irritative potential (at 100 µM) in vitro (tissue viability >50%) and in ovo (irritation scores of 0.70 for RUT-O, and 0.49 for RUT-L, respectively). Computational predictions revealed an increased lipophilicity, and reduced solubility, drug-likeness and drug score of RUT-O and RUT-L compared to their parent compounds—RUT, OA, and LA. In conclusion, we report a favorable toxicological profile for RUT-L, while RUT-O is dosage-limited since at high concentrations were noticed cytotoxic effects.

Technologies for Solubility, Dissolution and Permeation Enhancement of Natural Compounds

The current review is based on the advancements in the field of natural therapeutic agents which could be utilized for a variety of biomedical applications and against various diseases and ailments. In addition, several obstacles have to be circumvented to achieve the desired therapeutic effectiveness, among which limited dissolution and/or solubility and permeability are included. To counteract these issues, several advancements in the field of natural therapeutic substances needed to be addressed. Therefore, in this review, the possible techniques for the dissolution/solubility and permeability improvements have been addressed which could enhance the dissolution and permeability up to several times. In addition, the conventional and modern isolation and purification techniques have been emphasized to achieve the isolation and purification of single or multiple therapeutic constituents with convenience and smarter approaches. Moreover, a brief overview of advanced natural compounds with multiple therapeutic effectiveness have also been anticipated. In brief, enough advancements have been carried out to achieve safe, effective and economic use of natural medicinal agents with improved stability, handling and storage.

Improved stability and skin penetration through glycethosomes loaded with glycyrrhetinic acid

OBJECTIVE

In recent years, glycyrrhetinic acid (GA) has been popularly used in cosmetics because of its anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant effects. However, due to the poor water solubility of GA and the barrier effect of human skin, the penetration of GA through the skin may be hindered. Liposomes are a common delivery system for functional compounds in cosmetics. Nonetheless, the stability and transdermal effect of traditional liposomes are limited. The aim of this work was to prepare a new liposome system that contained glycerol and ethanol to enhance the stability of the vesicles and promote the penetration of GA into the skin.

METHODS

The glycethosomes were prepared by ethanol injection and sonication method. The effects of different concentrations of glycerol and ethanol on the particle size, polydispersity (PDI), entrapment efficiency (EE), stability and rheological properties of vesicles were evaluated. Lipophilic and hydrophilic fluorescent probes were used to investigate the microviscosity of vesicles. In vitro permeation tests were performed with pig skin in Franz cells and the concentration of GA in different skin layers was determined by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). The ability of different vesicles to induce lipid extraction and fluidization was analyzed by using attenuated total reflection-Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (ATR-FTIR).

RESULTS

When glycerol was 50% and ethanol was 25%, the obtained glycethosomes had the smallest particle size and the best stability with a mean particle size of 94.5 nm, PDI 0.216 and 99.8% EE. Fluorescence probe studies indicated that the microviscosity of glycethosomes was the largest when the concentration of glycerol and ethanol was 50% and 25%, which was consistent with the storage stability of glycethosomes. It was found that the glycethosomes had the best transdermal effect and the total skin permeation percentage of GA was 20.67%, while that of ethosomes, glycerosomes, liposomes and dispersion were 10.56%, 9.38%, 7.78% and 5.02%, respectively. And glycethosomes had effectively lipid extraction and fluidization effect on the skin stratum corneum.

CONCLUSION

Compared to other traditional liposomes, glycethosomes can significantly improve the stability of vesicles and the transdermal effect of GA. Glycethosomes are promising vesicles for the delivery of GA.

The Optimized Delivery of Triterpenes by Liposomal Nanoformulations: Overcoming the Challenges

The last decade has witnessed a sustained increase in the research development of modern-day chemo-therapeutics, especially for those used for high mortality rate pathologies. However, the therapeutic landscape is continuously changing as a result of the currently existing toxic side effects induced by a substantial range of drug classes. One growing research direction driven to mitigate such inconveniences has converged towards the study of natural molecules for their promising therapeutic potential. Triterpenes are one such class of compounds, intensively investigated for their therapeutic versatility. Although the pharmacological effects reported for several representatives of this class has come as a well-deserved encouragement, the pharmacokinetic profile of these molecules has turned out to be an unwelcomed disappointment. Nevertheless, the light at the end of the tunnel arrived with the development of nanotechnology, more specifically, the use of liposomes as drug delivery systems. Liposomes are easily synthesizable phospholipid-based vesicles, with highly tunable surfaces, that have the ability to transport both hydrophilic and lipophilic structures ensuring superior drug bioavailability at the action site as well as an increased selectivity. This study aims to report the results related to the development of different types of liposomes, used as targeted vectors for the delivery of various triterpenes of high pharmacological interest.

The Effect of pH and Sodium Caseinate on the Aqueous Solubility, Stability, and Crystallinity of Rutin towards Concentrated Colloidally Stable Particles for the Incorporation into Functional Foods

Poor water solubility and low bioavailability of hydrophobic flavonoids such as rutin remain as substantial challenges to their oral delivery via functional foods. In this study, the effect of pH and the addition of a protein (sodium caseinate; NaCas) on the aqueous solubility and stability of rutin was studied, from which an efficient delivery system for the incorporation of rutin into functional food products was developed. The aqueous solubility, chemical stability, crystallinity, and morphology of rutin (0.1–5% w/v) under various pH (1–11) and protein concentrations (0.2–8% w/v) were studied. To manufacture the concentrated colloidally stable rutin–NaCas particles, rutin was dissolved and deprotonated in a NaCas solution at alkaline pH before its subsequent neutralisation at pH 7. The excess water was removed using ultrafiltration to improve the loading capacity. Rutin showed the highest solubility at pH 11, while the addition of NaCas resulted in the improvement of both solubility and chemical stability. Critically, to achieve particles with colloidal stability, the NaCas:rutin ratio (w/w) had to be greater than 2.5 and 40 respectively for the lowest (0.2% w/v) and highest (4 to 8% w/v) concentrations of NaCas. The rutin–NaCas particles in the concentrated formulations were physically stable, with a size in the range of 185 to 230 nm and zeta potential of −36.8 to −38.1 mV, depending on the NaCas:rutin ratio. Encapsulation efficiency and loading capacity of rutin in different systems were 76% to 83% and 2% to 22%, respectively. The concentrated formulation containing 5% w/v NaCas and 2% w/v rutin was chosen as the most efficient delivery system due to the ideal protein:flavonoid ratio (2.5:1), which resulted in the highest loading capacity (22%). Taken together, the findings show that the delivery system developed in this study can be a promising method for the incorporation of a high concentration of hydrophobic flavonoids such as rutin into functional foods.

TransfersomILs: From Ionic Liquids to a New Class of Nanovesicular Systems

Ionic liquids (ILs) have increasingly been studied as key materials to upgrade the performance of many pharmaceutical formulations. In controlled delivery systems, ILs have improved multiple physicochemical properties, showing the relevance of continuing to study their incorporation into these formulations. Transfersomes are biocompatible nanovesicular systems, quite useful in controlled delivery. They have promising characteristics, such as elasticity and deformability, making them suitable for cutaneous delivery. Nonetheless, their overall properties and performance may still be improved. Herein, new TransfersomILs systems to load rutin were developed and the physicochemical properties of the formulations were assessed. These systems were prepared based on an optimized formulation obtained from a Box-Behnken factorial design (BBD). The impact of imidazole-based ILs, cholinium-based ILs, and their combinations on the cell viability of HaCaT cells and on the solubility of rutin was initially assessed. The newly developed TransfersomILs containing rutin presented a smaller size and, in general, a higher association efficiency, loading capacity, and total amount of drug release compared to the formulation without IL. The ILs also promoted the colloidal stability of the vesicles, upgrading storage stability. Thus, ILs were a bridge to develop new TransfersomILs systems with an overall improved performance.

A Newfangled Collagenase Inhibitor Topical Formulation Based on Ethosomes with Sambucus nigra L. Extract

Sambucus nigra L. (S. nigra) is a shrub widespread in Europe and western Asia, traditionally used in medicine, that has become popular in recent years as a potential source of a wide range of interesting bioactive compounds. The aim of the present work was to develop a topical S. nigra extract formulation based on ethosomes and thus to support its health claims with scientific evidence. S. nigra extract was prepared by an ultrasound-assisted method and then included in ethosomes. The ethosomes were analyzed in terms of their size, stability over time, morphology, entrapment capacity (EC), extract release profile, stability over time and several biological activities. The prepared ethosomes were indicated to be well defined, presenting sizes around 600 nm. The extract entrapment capacity in ethosomes was 73.9 ± 24.8%, with an interesting slow extract release profile over 24 h. The extract-loaded ethosomes presented collagenase inhibition activity and a very good skin compatibility after human application. This study demonstrates the potential use of S. nigra extract incorporated in ethosomes as a potential cosmeceutical ingredient and on further studies should be performed to better understand the impact of S. nigra compounds on skin care over the time.

Preliminary Protocol Development of a HPLC-TBARS-EVSC (Ex Vivo Stratum Corneum) Assay for Skin Research: Application in a Sunscreen System

Considering the importance of the cutaneous tissue investigation and the need for the development of new protocols to non-invasively establish the safety and efficacy of dermocosmetics and topical products, we aimed at developing an HPLC-TBARS-EVSC (high performance liquid chromatography–thiobarbituric acid reactive species–ex vivo stratum corneum) assay for the lipid peroxidation measurement on subjects’ stratum corneum (SC) obtained by tape stripping; additionally, we applied the HPLC-TBARS-EVSC assay in an emulsified sunscreen system containing ethylhexyl triazone and bemotrizinol as UV filters. HPLC analysis was performed in isocratic mode with 35% methanol/65% phosphate buffer (pH 7.0) as the mobile phase. The diode detector was set at 532 nm to quantify the malondialdehyde (MDA)-TBA adduct. An ex vivo tape stripping method was applied in 10 volunteers in three pre-defined regions of the volar forearms: the control; the irradiated; and the site containing the sunscreen (2.0 mg·cm−2). Ten adhesive tapes per region were used for SC removal. An exclusive ex vivo protocol to measure SC lipid peroxidation was preliminarily developed with linearity and selectivity. The protocol suggested the use of an artificial irradiation dose (5506 KJ·m−2) to improve the assay response from the SC. The sunscreen system had a significative decrease in SC lipoperoxidative damage compared to the control. Our protocol can aid in the efficacy establishment of anti-UV and antioxidant agents, for instance, in studies that aim at elucidating the level of SC lipid peroxidation and even in carrying out baseline investigations characterizing different ethnicities and genders.

Recent Advances in Nanomaterials for Dermal and Transdermal Applications

The stratum corneum, the most superficial layer of the skin, protects the body against environmental hazards and presents a highly selective barrier for the passage of drugs and cosmetic products deeper into the skin and across the skin. Nanomaterials can effectively increase the permeation of active molecules across the stratum corneum and enable their penetration into deeper skin layers, often by interacting with the skin and creating the distinct sites with elevated local concentration, acting as reservoirs. The flux of the molecules from these reservoirs can be either limited to the underlying skin layers (for topical drug and cosmeceutical delivery) or extended across all the sublayers of the epidermis to the blood vessels of the dermis (for transdermal delivery). The type of the nanocarrier and the physicochemical nature of the active substance are among the factors that determine the final skin permeation pattern and the stability of the penetrant in the cutaneous environment. The most widely employed types of nanomaterials for dermal and transdermal applications include solid lipid nanoparticles, nanovesicular carriers, microemulsions, nanoemulsions, and polymeric nanoparticles. The recent advances in the area of nanomaterial-assisted dermal and transdermal delivery are highlighted in this review.

Proniosomal Gel for Topical Delivery of Rutin: Preparation, Physicochemical Characterization and In Vitro Toxicological Profile Using 3D Reconstructed Human Epidermis Tissue and 2D Cells

Rutin (Rut) is a natural flavonol, well-known for its broad-spectrum of therapeutic effects, including antioxidant and antitumoral activities; still, it has a reduced clinical outcome due to its limited solubility in aqueous solutions. To overcome this drawback, this study proposes a novel formulation for rutin as a proniosomal gel for cutaneous applications. The gel was prepared by coacervation phase-separation method and complies with the standard requirements in terms of particle size (140.5 ± 2.56 nm), zeta potential (−27.33 ± 0.09 mV), encapsulation capacity (> 50%), pH (7.002 ± 0.18) and rheological properties. The results showed high biocompatibility of the gel on the 3D reconstructed human epidermis model characterized by increased viability of the cells and a lack of irritant and phototoxic potential. The evaluations on 2D cells confirm the preferential cytotoxic effect of Rut on melanoma cells (IC₅₀ value = 8.601 µM, nuclear fragmentation) compared to normal keratinocytes. Our data suggest that the proniosomal gel is a promising drug carrier for Rut in the management and prevention of skin disorders.

Self-assembled lipids for food applications: A review

Lipids play an important role in human nutrition. Several foodstuffs can be manufactured from the simple, compound and derived lipids. In particular, the use of self-assembled lipids (SLs, e.g. self-assembled L-α-lecithin) has brought great attention for the development of tailored, tuned and targeted colloidal structures loading degradation-sensitive substances with valuable antimicrobial, antioxidant and nutraceutical properties for food applications. For example, polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs) and essential oils can be protected from degradation, thus improving their bioavailability in general terms in consumers. From a nanotechnological point of view, SLs allow the development of advanced and multifaceted architectures, in which each molecule of them are used as building blocks to obtain designed and ordered structures. It is important to note before beginning this review, that simple and compound lipids are the main SLs, while essential fatty acids and derived lipids in general have been considered by many research groups as the bulk loaded substances within several structures from self-assembled carbohydrates, proteins and lipids. However, this review paper is addressed on the analysis of the lipid-lipid self-assembly. Lipids can be self-assembled into various structures (micelles, vesicular systems, lyotropic liquid crystals, oleogels and films) to be used in different food applications: coatings, controlled and sustained release materials, emulsions, functional foods, etc. SLs can be obtained via non-covalent chemical interactions, primarily by hydrogen, hydrophilic and ionic bonding, which are influenced by the conditions of ionic strength, pH, temperature, among others. This manuscript aims to give an analysis of the specific state-of-the-art of SLs for food applications, based primarily on the literature reported in the past five years.

Ex vivo penetration analysis and anti-inflammatory efficacy of the association of ferulic acid and UV filters

BACKGROUND

Unprotected chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation generates many harmful effects to human skin and sunscreens are essential to health, however, traditional products do not provide enough protection against cutaneous oxidative stress, a process amplified by UV radiation. Therefore, the development of multifunctional photoprotective formulations seems to be a more efficacious approach, since these enable the absorption/reflection of UV radiation and maintain the cutaneous homeostasis.

OBJECTIVES

In the present study, ferulic acid (FA), a well-known antioxidant, has been combined with two UV filters, bemotrizinol and ethylhexyl triazone, and the safety and efficacy of this formulation has been assessed combining ex vivo and in vivo methods.

METHODS

Skin permeation assays were performed by applying the formulation in the volar forearm of participants, after which consecutive samples of the stratum corneum were collected by tape stripping, and the quantification of FA, bemotrizinol and ethylhexyl triazone was performed by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). Also, the FA anti-inflammatory action in combination with the UV filters was probed through a method employing Laser Doppler flowmetry to measure the vasodilatory response to methyl nicotinate topical application.

RESULTS

Skin permeation assay was able to characterize the penetration depth of each substance. It should also be noted that a specific HPLC analytical method was developed in this study to enable the rapid simultaneous quantification of the three substances. Results from Laser Doppler flowmetry showed that the FA was able to mitigate the vasodilatory response.

CONCLUSIONS

FA proved to be a valuable resource in a multifunction sunscreen, not only providing an increase in the SPF of sunscreens, previously published, but also decreasing the extent of inflammation.

Contribution of Topical Antioxidants to Maintain Healthy Skin—A Review

The skin is constantly exposed to various environmental stresses, in particular to the damage caused by pollution and ultraviolet radiation (UV), and as a consequence, the horny extract can be negatively impacted by the harmful influence of some of its surface components. The mechanisms involved in the degradation processes promoted by UV radiation are driven by the direct absorption of radiation via cellular chromophores, the formation of excited states and the consequent chemical reactions, or even by the photosensitization mechanisms, in which UV light is absorbed by the sensitizers that are excited and their reactions promote the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). The mechanisms of polluting agents are not yet fully understood, however, they indicate that one of the main mechanisms involved is oxidative stress by lipid peroxidation, with the ability to promote damage to the composition of sebum, the quality of the stratum corneum and also, promote aging skin. Recent studies demonstrate the potential of antioxidant agents, with an emphasis on products of natural origin, which try to promote the maintenance of the physiological balance of the skin.