Influence of hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin on photo-induced free radical production by the sunscreen agent, butyl-methoxydibenzoylmethane

The effect of deuteration on the keto-enol equilibrium and photostability of the sunscreen agent avobenzone

The remarkable properties of deuterium have led to many exciting and favourable results in enhancing material properties, for applications in the physical, medical, and biological sciences. Deuterated isotopologues of avobenzone, a sunscreen active ingredient, were synthesised to examine for any changes to the equilibrium between the diketone and enol isomers, as well as their UV photostability and photoprotective properties. Prior to UV irradiation, deuteration of the diketone methylene/enol moiety (i.e. avobenzone-d2) led to an increase in the % diketone compared to non-deuterated, determined by 1H NMR experiments in CDCl3 and C6D12. This can be rationalised from two angles; mechanistically by a deuterium kinetic isotope effect for the CH vs. CD abstraction step during tautomerisation from the diketone to the enol, and a weaker chelating hydrogen bond for the enol when deuterated allowing increased equilibration to the diketone. Avobenzone-d2 was further examined by solid state 13C NMR. The higher % diketone for avobenzone-d2 was postulated to favour increased photodegradation by a non-reversible pathway. This was investigated by UV irradiation of the avobenzone isotopologues in C6D12, both in real time in situ within the NMR by fibre optic cable as well as ex situ using sunlight. An increase in the relative amount of photoproducts for avobenzone-d2 compared to non-deuterated was observed by 1H NMR upon UV irradiation ex situ. Overall, the study demonstrates that deuteration can be applied to alter complex equilibria, and has potential to be manifested as changes to the properties and behaviour of materials.

Avobenzone encapsulated in modified dextrin for improved UV protection and reduced skin penetration

The present study used differential scanning calorimetry, thermogravimetric analysis, and UV spectrometry to examine: i) the encapsulation of an organic UV filter 1-(4-methoxyphenyl)-3-(4-tert-butylphenyl)propane-1,3-dione (avobenzone) within modified dextrin and ii) the characteristics of these inclusion complexes (MDA). The properties of avobenzone emulsions with and without encapsulation in modified dextrin, the in vitro UV protection factor, dissolution and release, and the skin penetrability of avobenzone were also examined. The presence of inclusion complexes significantly decreased the tendency of the UV filter to penetrate the skin. In addition, such inclusion complexes should effectively prevent skin damage from radiation extending from the UVA to the UVC.

Butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane

A comprehensive profile on Butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane, one of the most commonly used ultraviolet (UV) filters in topical sunscreen products, is prepared. This UV filter, often referred to as Avobenzone, has its main absorbance in the UVA I region of the spectrum and is susceptible to photodegradation. The profile contains the following sections: general information, use and mechanism of action, method of preparation, physical characteristics, methods of analysis, stability, and toxicity. The physical characteristics section includes the melting range, differential scanning calorimetry, partition coefficient, ionization constant, solubility, and UV, infrared, nuclear magnetic resonance ((1)H NMR and (13)C NMR) and mass spectrometry and X-ray powder diffractometry. The method of analysis section in addition to compendial identification and purity and assay methods includes thin-layer gas and high-performance liquid chromatography. The photostability and photostabilization of Butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane, in addition to its toxicity, are also documented.

Microencapsulation of a cyclodextrin complex of the UV filter, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane: in vivo skin penetration studies

Lipid microparticles loaded with the complex between hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin (HP-β-CD) and the sunscreen agent, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDBM) were evaluated for their effect on the UV filter percutaneous penetration. The microparticles were prepared by the melt emulsification technique using tristearin as lipidic material and hydrogenate phosphatidylcholine as the surfactant. Human skin penetration was investigated in vivo by the tape stripping technique, a minimal invasive procedure based on the progressive removal of the upper cutaneous layers (stratum corneum) with adhesive tape strips. The amount of sunscreen fixed to each strip was determined by HPLC after solvent extraction. The recovery of the UV filter from spiked adhesive tapes was >94.4% and the precision of the method was better than 7.6% relative standard deviation. Non-encapsulated BMDBM, its complex with HP-β-CD, the lipid microparticles loaded with the sunscreen alone or the BMDBM/HP-β-CD complex were introduced into oil-in-water emulsions and applied to human volunteers. Compared to the cream with the non-encapsulated sunscreen agent (percentage of the applied dose penetrated, 9.7%±2.5), the amount of BMDBM diffusing into the stratum corneum was increased by the formulations containing the BMDBM/HP-β-CD complex (17.1%±3.2 of the applied dose) or the microparticles loaded with BMDBM only (15.1%±2.7 of the applied dose). On the contrary, a significant decrease in the level of UV filter penetrated into the stratum corneum was achieved by the cream containing the microencapsulated BMDBM/HP-β-CD complex (percentage of the applied dose penetrated, 6.0%±1.5). The reduced BMDBM percutaneous penetration attained by the latter system should enhance the UV filter efficacy and limit potential toxicological risks.

Photostabilization effect of quercetin on the UV filter combination, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane-octyl methoxycinnamate

The aim of the study was to investigate the effect of the natural antioxidant quercetin on the photostability of the most widely used combination of UVA (320-400 nm) and UVB (290-320 nm) filters, respectively butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDBM) and octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC). In order to reproduce the conditions prevalent in commercial sunscreen products, the stabilizing efficacy of quercetin was evaluated in model creams containing BMDBM (3%, wt/wt) together with OMC (4%, wt/wt) and exposed to a solar simulator at an irradiance corresponding to natural sunlight. Quercetin was found to enhance the photostability of the two UV filters in a concentration-dependent way. Addition of quercetin to the sunscreen formulation significantly reduced the photodegradation of BMDBM and OMC from 40.3 +/- 2.4 to 27.7 +/- 2.6% and from 51.3 +/- 2.1 to 42.2 +/- 2.0%, respectively. Moreover, comparative photodegradation studies demonstrated that quercetin was much more effective and at a lower concentration than commonly used stabilizer (octocrylene) and antioxidants (vitamin E, butylated hydroxyanisole). In vitro determination of the UVB and UVA protection parameters showed that the quercetin-based formulation fulfilled the official requirements on sunscreen products. Because of its photostabilizing and multiple antioxidant properties, quercetin represents a useful additive for the formulation of effective broad-spectrum sunscreens containing BMDBM and OMC.

Comparative evaluation of different substrates for the in vitro determination of sunscreen photostability: spectrophotometric and HPLC analyses

Polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) plates and Transpore(TM) tapes were compared as substrates for the in vitro evaluation of photostability of commercial sunscreen products. The sun care preparations were applied respectively on Transpore(TM) tapes and PMMA plates and their sun protection factors (SPF) and UVA protection parameters [UVA/UVB ratio, critical wavelength, UVA protection factor (UVA-PF)] were measured by transmission spectroscopy, before and after irradiation with simulated sunlight. No significant differences were observed in the UV protection parameters measured on Transpore(TM) tapes or PMMA plates, before exposure to the solar simulator. Conversely, after irradiation, the SPF values of the sun care products exhibited marked variations between the two substrates, the decrease in SPF being greater on PMMA plates (31.3-63.1%) than on Transpore(TM) tapes (10.4-23.8%). Differences between the two substrates were detected also for the UVA protection parameters, although they were significant only for the UVA-PF. The tested samples were assayed also by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) to assess the extent of photodegradation of the UV filters present in the examined formulations. The results showed that for the PMMA plates, the light-induced decrease in SPF, as determined by spectrophotometry, fitted well with the percentage loss of ethyl hexyl methoxycinnamate (the only photounstable UVB filter present) measured by HPLC. Moreover, for the PMMA substrate, the UVA-PF percentage reduction was consistent with the percentage degradation of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (the only photounstable UVA filter present) determined by HPLC. On the other hand, poor correlation between spectrophotometric and HPLC analyses was observed on Transpore(TM) tapes. Therefore, PMMA plates are more reliable than Transpore(TM) tapes as substrates for in vitro photodegradation tests of sunscreen products by transmission spectroscopy.

Incorporation in lipid microparticles of the UVA filter, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane combined with the UVB filter, octocrylene: effect on photostability

The aim of this study was to reduce the photoinstability of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDBM), the most widely used UVA filter, by incorporating it in lipid microparticles (LMs) alone or together with the UVB filter octocrylene (OCR), acting also as photostabilizer. Microparticles loaded with BMDBM or with combined BMDBM and OCR were produced by the hot emulsion technique, using glyceryl behenate as lipid material and poloxamer 188 as surfactant. The LMs were characterized by release studies, scanning electron microscopy, and powder X-ray diffractometry. The BMDBM and OCR loading was 15.2% and 10.6%, respectively. In order to reproduce the conditions prevalent in commercial sunscreen products, the photoprotective efficacy of the LMs was evaluated after their introduction in a model cream (oil-in-water emulsion) containing a mixture of UVA and UVB filters. A small but statistically significant decrease in BMDBM photodegradation was obtained when the UVA filter was encapsulated alone into the LMs (the extent of degradation was 28.6% +/-2.4 for non-encapsulated BMDBM and 26.0% +/-2.5 for BMDBM-loaded microparticles). On the other hand, the co-loading of OCR in the LMs produced a more marked reduction in the light-induced decomposition of microencapsulated BMDBM (the UVA filter loss was 21.5% +/-2.2). Therefore, incorporation in lipid microparticles of BMDBM together with the sunscreen OCR is more effective in enhancing the UVA filter photostability than LMs loaded with BMDBM alone.

Influence of solid lipid microparticle carriers on skin penetration of the sunscreen agent, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor

The objective of this study was to prepare lipid microparticles (LMs) loaded with the sunscreen agent, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (4-MBC), to achieve decreased skin penetration of this UV filter. The microparticles were produced by the melt dispersion technique using tristearin as lipidic material and hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine as the surfactant. The obtained microparticles were characterized by scanning electron microscopy and differential scanning calorimetry. Release of 4-MBC from the LMs was found to be slower than its dissolution rate. The influence of the LMs' carrier system on percutaneous penetration was evaluated after their introduction in a model topical formulation (emulsion). In-vitro measurements were performed with cellulose acetate membranes in Franz diffusion cells. The 4-MBC release and diffusion was decreased by 66.7-77.3% with the LM formulation, indicating that the retention capacity of the microparticles was maintained after incorporation into the emulsion. In-vivo human skin penetration of 4-MBC was investigated by tape stripping, a technique for selectively removing the upper cutaneous layers. The amount of sunscreen penetrating into the stratum corneum was greater for the emulsion containing non-encapsulated 4-MBC (36.55% of the applied dose) compared with the formulation with the sunscreen-loaded microparticles (24.57% of the applied dose). The differences between the two formulations were statistically significant in the first (2-4) horny layer strips. Moreover, the LMs' effect measured in-vivo was less pronounced than in-vitro. The increased 4-MBC retention on the skin surface achieved by its incorporation in the LMs should enhance its efficacy and reduce the potential toxicological risk associated with skin penetration.

Oak leaf extract as topical antioxidant: free radical scavenging and iron chelating activities and in vivo skin irritation potential

The topical application of antioxidants may be beneficial for the protection of the skin against UV damage. An extract of Quercus robur leaves was prepared and evaluated considering its putative application as topical antioxidant. The solvent and extractive method selection was monitored by 1,1-diphenyl-2-picryl hydrazyl (DPPH) free radical scavenging activity and polyphenols extraction (measured by the Folin Ciocalteu assay). Iron chelating activity and the phenolic composition (HPLC/DAD) were assessed on the extract obtained under optimized conditions. Skin irritation potential was investigated by performing an in vivo patch test in 19 volunteers. The extraction solvent which resulted in the highest activity was ethanol:water (4:6) and thus it was selected for further preparation of this extract. The IC50s for the iron chelation and DPPH scavenging assays were 153.8 +/- 26.3 microg x mL-1 and 7.53 +/- 0.71 microg x mL-1 (mean +/- SD), respectively. The total phenolic content was found to be 346.3 +/- 6.7 mg gallic acid equivalents (GAE)/g extract (mean +/- SD). Three phenolic compounds were identified in the extract namely: ellagic acid, rutin and hyperoside. The major identified component was ellagic acid. The patch test carried out showed that the extract can be regarded as safe for topical application.

Transient Enol Isomers of Dibenzoylmethane and Avobenzone as Efficient Hydrogen Donors toward a Nitroxide Pre-fluorescent Probe†

Dibenzoylmethane and avobenzone photochemistry involves the formation of transient enol isomers (Z and E). Conjugation of the OH group with the carbonyl group in these transient isomers reduces the OH bond energy. A fast reduction of the pre-fluorescent probe (C343T) was observed after addition to photolysed DBM samples in nonpolar solvents. This can be attributed to a hydrogen transfer reaction from the transient E accumulated. While no quenching for Z by TEMPO was detected in the laser flash photolysis timescale. Theoretical calculations of spin densities distribution of the radical formed from Z and E showed a more delocalized distribution that would indicate a low reactivity towards oxygen. Our results suggest that DBM and avobenzone can effectively behave as photoantioxidants or photoactivated antioxidants under conditions where its enol isomers can be accumulated.

Influence of liposphere preparation on butyl-methoxydibenzoylmethane photostability

The incorporation of butyl-methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDBM), one of the most efficient and frequently used UV-A blockers, into lipospheres was examined in order to decrease the light-induced sunscreen degradation. Lipospheres, obtained by the melt technique and using tristearin as the lipid material and hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine as the emulsifier, showed proper features in terms of size (10-40 microm), BMDBM loading level (21.63% +/- 0.90%, w/w) and physical state. Photolysis studies, involving irradiation of lipospheres with simulated sunlight before and after their introduction in emulsion formulations, demonstrated a relevant enhancement of the encapsulated sunscreen photostability in comparison with unencapsulated BMDBM.

Sunscreens – Which and What for?

It is well established that sun exposure is the main cause for the development of skin cancer. Chronic continuous UV radiation is believed to induce malignant melanoma, whereas intermittent high-dose UV exposure contributes to the occurrence of actinic keratosis as precursor lesions of squamous cell carcinoma as well as basal cell carcinoma. Not only photocarcinogenesis but also the mechanisms of photoaging have recently become apparent. In this respect the use of sunscreens seemed to prove to be more and more important and popular within the last decades. However, there is still inconsistency about the usefulness of sunscreens. Several studies show that inadequate use and incomplete UV spectrum efficacy may compromise protection more than previously expected. The sunscreen market is crowded by numerous products. Inorganic sunscreens such as zinc oxide and titanium oxide have a wide spectral range of activity compared to most of the organic sunscreen products. It is not uncommon for organic sunscreens to cause photocontact allergy, but their cosmetic acceptability is still superior to the one given by inorganic sunscreens. Recently, modern galenic approaches such as micronization and encapsulation allow the development of high-quality inorganic sunscreens. The potential systemic toxicity of organic sunscreens has lately primarily been discussed controversially in public, and several studies show contradictory results. Although a matter of debate, at present the sun protection factor (SPF) is the most reliable information for the consumer as a measure of sunscreen filter efficacy. In this context additional tests have been introduced for the evaluation of not only the protective effect against erythema but also protection against UV-induced immunological and mutational effects. Recently, combinations of UV filters with agents active in DNA repair have been introduced in order to improve photoprotection. This article reviews the efficacy of sunscreens in the prevention of epithelial and nonepithelial skin cancer, the effect on immunosuppression and the value of the SPF as well as new developments on the sunscreen market.

Reactive oxygen species produced upon photoexcitation of sunscreens containing titanium dioxide (an EPR study)

Commercial sunscreen products containing titanium dioxide were irradiated with lambda>300 nm and the formation of oxygen- (.OH, O2.-/.OOH) and carbon-centered radicals was monitored by EPR spectroscopy and spin trapping technique using 5,5-dimethyl-1-pyrroline N-oxide, alpha-phenyl-N-tert-butylnitrone (PBN), alpha-(4-pyridyl-1-oxide)-N-tert-butylnitrone as spin traps, and free nitroxide radical 4-hydroxy-2,2,6,6-tetramethylpiperidine N-oxyl. The photoinduced production of singlet oxygen was shown by 4-hydroxy-2,2,6,6-piperidine. The generation of reactive oxygen radical species upon irradiation of sunscreens significantly depends on their composition, as the additives present (antioxidants, radical-scavengers, solvents) can transform the reactive radicals formed to less harmful products. The continuous in situ irradiation of titanium dioxide powder, recommended for cosmetic application, investigated in different solvents (water, dimethyl sulfoxide, isopropyl myristate) resulted in the generation of oxygen-centered reactive radical species (superoxide anion radical, hydroxyl and alkoxyl radicals).

Influence of cyclodextrins on in vitro human skin absorption of the sunscreen, butyl-methoxydibenzoylmethane

The effects of hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin (HP-beta-CD) and sulfobutylether-beta-CD (SBE7-beta-CD) on in vitro human skin penetration and retention of the sunscreen agent butyl-methoxydibenzoylmethane (BM-DBM) were investigated. The interaction between the UV filter and the cyclodextrins was studied in water by phase-solubility analysis. Solid complexes were prepared by the co-evaporation method and characterized by (1)H NMR spectroscopy, thermal analysis and powder X-ray diffraction. Solutions containing BM-DBM free or complexed with cyclodextrins were applied to excised human skin in Franz diffusion cells and the amount of sunscreen permeated after 6 h into the stratum corneum, viable epidermis, dermis and receptor fluid was assessed by HPLC. As much as 14.10-16.78% of the applied dose of BM-DBM penetrated within the skin tissue. No sunscreen was detected in the dermis and in the receiver phase. The greater proportion (84.6-95.5%) of the absorbed UV filter was localized in the stratum corneum with no significant differences between uncomplexed or complexed BM-DBM. Notable levels (2.29% of the applied dose) of the sunscreen agent accumulated in the epidermis from the preparation containing free BM-DBM. The epidermal concentration of the UV filter was markedly reduced (0.66% of the applied dose) by complexation with SBE7-beta-CD, whereas HP-beta-CD had no effect. The decreased BM-DBM retention in the epidermal region achieved by SBE7-beta-CD limits direct contact of the sunscreen and of its reactive photolytic products with the skin viable tissues.