A Guide to Indoor Rock Climbing Injuries

Mental health problems, sleep quality and overuse injuries in advanced Swedish rock-climbers - the CLIMB study

OBJECTIVES

To examine the prevalence of mental health problems (depression, anxiety, and stress), sleep quality, and disability due to overuse injuries in advanced and elite rock-climbers. The rock-climbers were compared to a group of non-climbing controls.

METHODS

A self-selected sample of advanced and elite Swedish rock-climbing athletes was recruited through the Swedish Rock-climbing Federation, local rock-climbing gyms and through social media. A control group, matched in size was recruited. Participants in the control group answered an online survey of validated questionnaires, examining symptoms of stress, anxiety, depression, sleep quality. The climbing participants answered the same survey as the non-climbing controls but with additional questions regarding musculoskeletal problems and disabilities related to these. Outcome measures used were the Depression Anxiety Stress Scale, Pittsburgh Sleep Quality Index and The Oslo Sports Trauma Research Center Overuse Injury Questionnaire.

RESULTS

A total of 183 participants were included in the rock-climbing group, and 180 participants in the control group. In the rock-climbing group the mean age (SD) was 28.2 (8.3) years among women and 30.5 (9.6) years in men. The mean BMI of women was 21.2 (2.2) and 22.8 (2.1) in men. A total of 30.6% of the rock-climbing group (26.7% of men, 35.9% of women) reported at least moderate levels of symptoms of depression and 23.1% (17.2% men, 30.8% women) at least moderate levels of symptoms of anxiety. A total of 48.4% of rock-climbers (39.1% men, and 61.6% women) reported at least moderate levels of symptoms of stress. Among the rock-climbers, 45.0% reported having poor sleep quality. There were no statistical significant differences (p = 0.052-0.96) in mental health problems or sleeping problems between the rock-climbers and the controls. Among rock-climbers, reports of one-week prevalence of injury related problems was: Finger and hand (49.5%), Shoulder (35.2%), Knee (29.1%), Lumbar back (26.4%), Arm (25.3%), Thoracic back and neck (17.0%), and Foot and lower leg (12.1%).

CONCLUSION

The overall results indicate high levels of symptoms of mental health problems and poor sleep quality in both rock-climbers and controls. Although no significant differences between the climbing group and the control group was displayed, symptoms that warrant clinical attention is high. Overuse injuries were commonly reported among the rock-climbers in all examined injury locations. Previous studies reporting mental health problems to be more prevalent among athletes were contradicted in this study. The results display the need for a broader perspective regarding climbers general health and the need to provide structured care and adequate support in order to come to terms with these concerns.

Neuromechanics of finger hangs with arm lock-offs: analyzing joint moments and muscle activations to improve practice guidelines for climbing

Introduction

Climbing imposes substantial demands on the upper limbs and understanding the mechanical loads experienced by the joints during climbing movements is crucial for injury prevention and optimizing training protocols. This study aimed to quantify and compare upper limb joint loads and muscle activations during isometric finger hanging exercises with different arm lock-off positions.

Methods

Seventeen recreational climbers performed six finger dead hangs with arm lock-offs at 90° and 135° of elbow flexion, as well as arms fully extended. Upper limb joint moments were calculated using personalized models in OpenSim, based on three-dimensional motion capture data and forces measured on an instrumented hang board. Muscle activations of upper limb muscles were recorded with surface electromyography electrodes.

Results

Results revealed that the shoulder exhibited higher flexion moments during arm lock-offs at 90° compared to full extension (p = 0.006). The adduction moment was higher at 135° and 90° compared to full extension (p < 0.001), as well as the rotation moments (p < 0.001). The elbows exhibited increasing flexion moments with the increase in the arm lock-off angle (p < 0.001). Muscle activations varied across conditions for biceps brachii (p < 0.001), trapezius (p < 0.001), and latissimus dorsi, except for the finger flexors (p = 0.15).

Discussion

Our findings indicate that isometric finger dead hangs with arms fully extended are effective for training forearm force capacities while minimizing stress on the elbow and shoulder joints. These findings have important implications for injury prevention and optimizing training strategies in climbing.