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Salas T, Bordes C, Arquier D, Caillier L, Mandica F, Bolzinger MA. Effect of massage on retinol skin penetration. Int J Pharm 2023:123106. [PMID: 37279867 DOI: 10.1016/j.ijpharm.2023.123106] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 03/23/2023] [Revised: 05/31/2023] [Accepted: 06/02/2023] [Indexed: 06/08/2023]
Abstract
Topical administration of active substances may be promoted by optimizing not only the vehicle formulation but also the application protocol. The formulation aspects are widely studied in the literature while a few works are dedicated to the development of application methods. In this context, we studied an application protocol usable as a part of skincare routine by investigating the effect of massage on the skin penetration of retinol. Retinol is a lipophilic molecule widely used as an anti-ageing firming agent in cosmetic formulations. Massage was applied to pig skin explants mounted to Franz diffusion cells after or before the deposit of the retinol-loaded formulation. Thetype of skin massage (roll or rotary type) and its duration were varied.The massage protocol had a significant influence on retinol skin penetration. Due to its highly lipophilic character, retinol accumulated into the stratum corneum but, depending on the massage protocol, a significant retinol concentration was obtained after 4 hours in epidermis and dermis layers. Results showed that the roll-type massage was significantly more efficient than the rotary process that exhibited little effect on retinol cutaneous penetration. Such results could be interesting for the development of massage devices in association with cosmetic formulations.
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Affiliation(s)
- Tiffanie Salas
- Université de Lyon, Université Claude Bernard Lyon 1, CNRS UMR 5007, Laboratoire D'Automatique, de Génie des Procédés et de Génie Pharmaceutique (LAGEPP), 43 Bd Du 11 Novembre 1918, 69622, Villeurbanne, France; Groupe SEB, Campus SEB, 112, Chemin Du Moulin Carron, Ecully, France.
| | - Claire Bordes
- Université de Lyon, Université Claude Bernard Lyon 1, CNRS UMR 5007, Laboratoire D'Automatique, de Génie des Procédés et de Génie Pharmaceutique (LAGEPP), 43 Bd Du 11 Novembre 1918, 69622, Villeurbanne, France
| | - Delphine Arquier
- Université de Lyon, Université Claude Bernard Lyon 1, CNRS UMR 5007, Laboratoire D'Automatique, de Génie des Procédés et de Génie Pharmaceutique (LAGEPP), 43 Bd Du 11 Novembre 1918, 69622, Villeurbanne, France
| | - Laurent Caillier
- Groupe SEB, Campus SEB, 112, Chemin Du Moulin Carron, Ecully, France
| | - Franck Mandica
- Groupe SEB, Campus SEB, 112, Chemin Du Moulin Carron, Ecully, France
| | - Marie-Alexandrine Bolzinger
- Université de Lyon, Université Claude Bernard Lyon 1, CNRS UMR 5007, Laboratoire D'Automatique, de Génie des Procédés et de Génie Pharmaceutique (LAGEPP), 43 Bd Du 11 Novembre 1918, 69622, Villeurbanne, France.
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2
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Léger DS, Luengo GS. The human touch: A connected neuro-cellular skin-brain network. Skin Res Technol 2023; 29:e13278. [PMID: 37113087 PMCID: PMC10234176 DOI: 10.1111/srt.13278] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 07/01/2022] [Accepted: 01/02/2023] [Indexed: 04/29/2023]
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3
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Hamp A, Anderson J, Laughter MR, Anderson JB, Presley CL, Rundle CW, Dellavalle RP. Gua-sha, Jade Roller, and Facial Massage: Are there benefits within dermatology? J Cosmet Dermatol 2023; 22:700-703. [PMID: 36170573 DOI: 10.1111/jocd.15421] [Citation(s) in RCA: 2] [Impact Index Per Article: 2.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 08/03/2022] [Revised: 09/07/2022] [Accepted: 09/26/2022] [Indexed: 12/01/2022]
Affiliation(s)
- Austin Hamp
- Arizona College of Osteopathic Medicine, Midwestern University, Glendale, Arizona, USA
| | - Jarett Anderson
- Arizona College of Osteopathic Medicine, Midwestern University, Glendale, Arizona, USA
| | - Melissa R Laughter
- Transitional Year Residency, The University of Texas at Austin Dell Medical School, Austin, Texas, USA
| | - Jaclyn B Anderson
- Department of Pathology, Stanford University, Stanford, California, USA
| | - Colby L Presley
- Division of Dermatology, Lehigh Valley Health Network, Allentown, Pennsylvania, USA
| | - Chandler W Rundle
- Department of Dermatology, Duke University Hospital, Durham, North Carolina, USA
| | - Robert P Dellavalle
- Dermatology Service, US Department of Veterans Affairs Rocky Mountain Regional Medical Center, Aurora, Colorado, USA
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Okuda I, Yamada M, Yamada Y, Yokoyama Y, Kampan N, Akita K, Jinzaki M. Anatomic and diagnostic considerations of facial mobility for understanding the effectiveness of facial massage: A pilot study. Skin Res Technol 2021; 27:1057-1063. [PMID: 34032318 DOI: 10.1111/srt.13058] [Citation(s) in RCA: 1] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 03/09/2021] [Accepted: 04/20/2021] [Indexed: 01/28/2023]
Abstract
BACKGROUND The effectiveness of facial massage is often explained by the resulting increases in the blood and lymphatic flow. However, it is difficult to explain the lifting effect on the cheeks. The aim of this study was to analyze facial mobility to further current understanding of the effectiveness of facial massage. MATERIALS AND METHODS Two kinds of analytical methods were designed using a cadaveric head as well as advanced computed tomography (CT). The cadaveric face was divided into three sections, and three different colors of ink were injected into each section. It was kept in a supine position for 24 hours, and the ink distribution was observed. Upright and supine CT examinations were performed on six healthy adult volunteers. The images of both were superimposed by a three-dimensional image analysis system, and changes in facial contours were analyzed. RESULTS The three colors of ink spread craniocaudally and were distributed differently from the gravitational vector. When both CT images were superimposed, two distinct lines were formed, which represented overlapping of the facial contours due to the two different CT images. These lines were found to correspond to the border of each color of the ink. CONCLUSION Focusing on the mobility of the face, the soft tissue of the face had vertical mobility, and it was speculated that this mobility is involved in the effectiveness of facial massage. Our results could provide useful information for cosmetic treatment and contribute to the collection of scientific knowledge for anti-aging medicine.
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Affiliation(s)
- Itsuko Okuda
- Department of Diagnostic Radiology, Keio University School of Medicine, Tokyo, Japan.,Department of Clinical Anatomy, Tokyo Medical and Dental University (TMDU), Tokyo, Japan.,Department of Diagnostic Radiology, Mita Hospital, International University of Health and Welfare (IUHW), Tokyo, Japan
| | - Minoru Yamada
- Department of Diagnostic Radiology, Keio University School of Medicine, Tokyo, Japan
| | - Yoshitake Yamada
- Department of Diagnostic Radiology, Keio University School of Medicine, Tokyo, Japan
| | - Yoichi Yokoyama
- Department of Diagnostic Radiology, Keio University School of Medicine, Tokyo, Japan
| | - Natnicha Kampan
- Department of Clinical Anatomy, Tokyo Medical and Dental University (TMDU), Tokyo, Japan.,Department of Anatomy, Faculty of Medicine, Chiang Mai University, Chiang Mai, Thailand
| | - Keiichi Akita
- Department of Clinical Anatomy, Tokyo Medical and Dental University (TMDU), Tokyo, Japan
| | - Masahiro Jinzaki
- Department of Diagnostic Radiology, Keio University School of Medicine, Tokyo, Japan
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5
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Aiello LM, Vergilio MM, Monteiro E Silva SA, Anselmo T, Leonardi GR. Skin effect of facial cleansing combined with an electric sonic device. J Cosmet Dermatol 2021; 20:3537-3544. [PMID: 33619809 DOI: 10.1111/jocd.14017] [Citation(s) in RCA: 1] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 09/07/2020] [Revised: 01/27/2021] [Accepted: 02/09/2021] [Indexed: 12/15/2022]
Abstract
BACKGROUND New technologies, such as sonic devices, have been developed to optimize the skin cleansing process and improve its efficiency. To evaluate the effectiveness of these cosmetic procedures, skin bioengineering is an objective method to assess the biophysical parameters of the skin. AIMS This study aimed to assess the effect of facial cleansing on the physiological properties of the skin by comparing a cleansing process with cosmetic product applied manually to cleansing with cosmetic product associated with the use of an electric sonic device. PATIENTS/METHODS A gentle skin cleanser was applied to the entire face of 12 subjects; the sonic device was used on one half of the face and the manual process was performed on the other half. Instrumental skin analyses included sebummetry, corneometry, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), infrared thermography, and high-frequency ultrasound and were measured before and up to 90 min after cleansing. Results were compared using two-way ANOVA and Friedman tests. RESULTS Data obtained from the statistical analysis of sebummetry, TEWL, thermography, and ultrasound parameters did not show any significant difference. When assessing the corneometry parameters, a significant reduction in hydration values (17.19%) was observed in the manual cleansing area, while the values remained similar to baseline values in the area where the sonic device was used. CONCLUSION The cleansing process with a sonic device did not cause a significant hydration reduction, suggesting better preservation of skin homeostasis when compared to manual cleansing.
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Affiliation(s)
- Laura Moretti Aiello
- Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of Campinas (UNICAMP), Campinas, Brazil
| | - Mariane Massufero Vergilio
- Graduate Program in Internal Medicine, School of Medical Sciences - University of Campinas (UNICAMP), Campinas, Brazil
| | | | - Tamiris Anselmo
- Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of Campinas (UNICAMP), Campinas, Brazil
| | - Gislaine Ricci Leonardi
- Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of Campinas (UNICAMP), Campinas, Brazil.,Graduate Program in Internal Medicine, School of Medical Sciences - University of Campinas (UNICAMP), Campinas, Brazil
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Messaraa C, Robertson N, Walsh M, Hurley S, Doyle L, Mansfield A, Daly L, Tansey C, Mavon A. Clinical evidences of benefits from an advanced skin care routine in comparison with a simple routine. J Cosmet Dermatol 2019; 19:1993-1999. [PMID: 31840424 DOI: 10.1111/jocd.13252] [Citation(s) in RCA: 8] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.6] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 09/24/2019] [Revised: 11/20/2019] [Accepted: 11/21/2019] [Indexed: 12/28/2022]
Abstract
BACKGROUND The use of a skin care routine is commonly promoted by the cosmetic industry, yet there is a lack of clinical evidence to support this practice over the use of a single skin care product. AIMS In the present study, we aimed at showing the clinical benefits of using a comprehensive skin care routine vs a simple one. METHODS Skin micro-/macro-topographic, skin color, and superficial/deep hydration were collected at baseline and after 4 weeks of use, on forty-nine women randomly allocated to two groups. The first one followed the use of an advanced routine (AR: Cleanser/Toner/Eye cream/Serum/Day & Night cream), while the other group was instructed to use a simple routine (SR: Cleanser & Day cream). RESULTS Hemoglobin heterogeneity was found to be significantly reduced only in the SR group. However, the AR outperformed the SR when it comes to improving superficial hydration, deep hydration, skin roughness, mean pore area, melanin heterogeneity, and crow's feet wrinkle depth. A significant increase in skin brightness from baseline was only recorded when using the AR while both routines significantly improved the nasolabial wrinkles. CONCLUSION These findings advocate for using a relevant daily routine as it demonstrates the visible skin benefits over a short period, while driving the creation of habits for the prevention of aging signs.
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Affiliation(s)
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - Alain Mavon
- Oriflame Skin Research Institute, Oriflame Cosmetics AB, Stockholm, Sweden
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7
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Caberlotto E, Bernal M, Miller Z, Poole A, Ruiz L, Tanter M, Gennisson JL, Querleux B. Controlled mechanical vibration and impacts on skin biology. Skin Res Technol 2019; 25:881-889. [PMID: 31400033 DOI: 10.1111/srt.12753] [Citation(s) in RCA: 2] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.4] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 06/13/2019] [Accepted: 06/28/2019] [Indexed: 12/22/2022]
Abstract
BACKGROUND AND OBJECTIVE Different biological models have shown how mechanical stimulation may induce physiological responses from solicited cells, tissues, or organs. In models of cultured skin cells, the frequency of the mechanical stress appears to be a paramount parameter, generating a biological response in some cells, particularly from dermal fibroblasts. Our objective was to explore in ex vivo human skin explants the effects of mechanical stimulation. MATERIALS AND METHODS Mechanical stimulations were provided by a torque test device, with different end effectors, able to generate cyclic strains at different frequencies (from 40 to 120 Hz). Skin explant samples were stimulated twice daily by the device for one minute, over 10 days. RESULTS At days 0, 5, and 10, samples were processed by immunohistological procedures, allowing some structural dermal proteins to be quantified (fluorescence). As compared to untreated skin explant samples, the stimulation procedure clearly led some proteins of the dermal-epidermal and some dermal proteins to be overexpressed. This stimulation was found to be frequency-dependent, with the greatest overall increases occurring at 60 and 90 Hz. CONCLUSION For the first time, ultrafast ultrasound imaging in vitro (phantom mimicking skin mechanical properties) was used to analyze mechanical waves transmitted to the skin layers as a function of end effector shape.
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Affiliation(s)
| | - Miguel Bernal
- Institut Langevin, ESPCI Paris, CNRS UMR7587, INSERM U979, PSL Research University, Paris, France
| | - Zane Miller
- L'Oréal Research and Innovation Redmond, Redmond, WA, USA
| | - Aaron Poole
- L'Oréal Research and Innovation Redmond, Redmond, WA, USA
| | - Laetitia Ruiz
- L'Oréal Research and Innovation, Aulnay-sous-Bois, France
| | - Mickaël Tanter
- Institut Langevin, ESPCI Paris, CNRS UMR7587, INSERM U979, PSL Research University, Paris, France
| | - Jean-Luc Gennisson
- IR4M, CNRS, CEA SHFJ, 4 Place du general Leclerc, Université Paris-sud, Orsay, France
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Gold M, Ablon G, Andriessen A, Goldberg D, Hooper D, Mandy S. Facial cleansing with a sonic brush—A review of the literature and current recommendations. J Cosmet Dermatol 2019; 18:686-691. [DOI: 10.1111/jocd.12906] [Citation(s) in RCA: 3] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.6] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 11/26/2018] [Accepted: 01/03/2019] [Indexed: 01/07/2023]
Affiliation(s)
| | - Glynis Ablon
- Ablon Skin Institute & Research Center University of California, Los Angeles Manhattan Beach California
| | - Anneke Andriessen
- Radboud University Medical Center Nijmegen The Netherlands
- Andriessen Consultants Malden The Netherlands
| | - David Goldberg
- Skin Laser & Surgery Specialists of NY and NJ New York New York
- Icahn School of Medicine at Mt. Sinai New York New York
| | - Deirdre Hooper
- Private Practice Medical, Cosmetic, and Laser Dermatology New Orleans Louisiana
- Department of Dermatology Louisiana State University New Orleans Louisiana
- Department of Dermatology Tulane University New Orleans Louisiana
| | - Steve Mandy
- Department of Dermatology University of Miami, Miller School of Medicine Miami Florida
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Le Digabel J, Houriez-Gombaud-Saintonge S, Filiol J, Lauze C, Josse G. Dermal fiber structures and photoaging. JOURNAL OF BIOMEDICAL OPTICS 2018; 23:1-12. [PMID: 30244547 DOI: 10.1117/1.jbo.23.9.096501] [Citation(s) in RCA: 5] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.8] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 03/07/2018] [Accepted: 08/29/2018] [Indexed: 06/08/2023]
Abstract
The use of multiphoton imaging has become a standard technique to visualize the dermis fibers as it requires no specific staining. The density and organization of collagen and elastin are common markers of skin intrinsic aging and photoaging; thus, there is a need of grading this skin aging with quantitative indicators able to provide a robust evaluation of the dermis fibers' state. We propose a systematic analysis of multiphoton images of skin biopsies taken on the buttock and the forearm of patients of different ages. The intensity histograms of images were analyzed through their moments, a wavelet decomposition was done, and the wavelet coefficients distribution was fitted by a generalized Gaussian distribution. Different parameters relative to the collagen or elastin densities, organizations, and structures were calculated and exhibit phenomena specific to intrinsic or extrinsic aging. Those indicators could become a standard method to analyze the degree of skin aging (intrinsic or extrinsic) through multiphoton imaging.
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Affiliation(s)
- Jimmy Le Digabel
- Pierre Fabre Dermo Cosmétique, Clinical Research Center, Toulouse, France
| | | | - Jérôme Filiol
- Pierre Fabre Dermo Cosmétique, Clinical Research Center, Toulouse, France
| | - Christophe Lauze
- Pierre Fabre Dermo Cosmétique, Clinical Research Center, Toulouse, France
| | - Gwendal Josse
- Pierre Fabre Dermo Cosmétique, Clinical Research Center, Toulouse, France
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Instructive microenvironments in skin wound healing: Biomaterials as signal releasing platforms. Adv Drug Deliv Rev 2018; 129:95-117. [PMID: 29627369 DOI: 10.1016/j.addr.2018.03.012] [Citation(s) in RCA: 114] [Impact Index Per Article: 19.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 11/06/2017] [Revised: 03/16/2018] [Accepted: 03/27/2018] [Indexed: 12/16/2022]
Abstract
Skin wound healing aims to repair and restore tissue through a multistage process that involves different cells and signalling molecules that regulate the cellular response and the dynamic remodelling of the extracellular matrix. Nowadays, several therapies that combine biomolecule signals (growth factors and cytokines) and cells are being proposed. However, a lack of reliable evidence of their efficacy, together with associated issues such as high costs, a lack of standardization, no scalable processes, and storage and regulatory issues, are hampering their application. In situ tissue regeneration appears to be a feasible strategy that uses the body's own capacity for regeneration by mobilizing host endogenous stem cells or tissue-specific progenitor cells to the wound site to promote repair and regeneration. The aim is to engineer instructive systems to regulate the spatio-temporal delivery of proper signalling based on the biological mechanisms of the different events that occur in the host microenvironment. This review describes the current state of the different signal cues used in wound healing and skin regeneration, and their combination with biomaterial supports to create instructive microenvironments for wound healing.
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