Scrutinizing skinfield melanin patterns in young Caucasian women

Sunscreens and Cosmetic Formulations Containing Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate and Rice Peptides for the Improvement of Skin Photoaging: A Double-blind, Randomized Placebo-controlled Clinical Study

Photoprotective formulations containing substances with antioxidant properties in combination have been used as a strategy for the improvement of photoaged skin conditions. However, there is a lack of studies evaluating the clinical efficacy of these substances in young women with signs of photoaging. Thus, the objective of the present study was to evaluate the clinical efficacy of sunscreens and cosmetic formulations containing ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and rice peptides for the improvement of skin photoaging in young women. A double-blind, randomized placebo-controlled clinical efficacy study was conducted on 60 female subjects aged 20-30 years with skin changes related to photoaging and without photoprotective habits. The hydrolipidic layer conditions and structural and morphological characteristics of the skin were evaluated by biophysical and skin imaging techniques. The results showed that the daily use of the formulations under study improved the skin conditions by increasing skin hydration and dermis echogenicity. In addition, the application of the active substances reduced skin hyperpigmentation and increased epidermal cell renewal. In summary, the present study showed the importance of daily application of sunscreens and formulations with antioxidant properties for the prevention and attenuation of skin changes related to photoaging in young women.

Assessment of changes in biophysical parameters by dermocosmetic emulgel loaded with Cinnamomum tamala extract: A split-faced and placebo-controlled study

BACKGROUND

Phenolic and flavonoid compounds found in plants alleviate the photo-damaging skin conditions by playing a major role in skin rejuvenation.

AIMS

The aim of the study was to explore the cosmeceutical effects of Cinnamomum tamala extract.

OBJECTIVE

Recent research was aimed to quantify phenols and flavonoids in the natural extract of C tamala leaves, to develop its phyto-cosmetic emulgel and to assess effects of emulgel on healthy human skin.

METHOD

Phenols and flavonoids in C tamala (CT) extract were quantified by using ELISA assay. Emulgel formulation loaded with 4% C tamala (CT emulgel) was developed, and its cosmetic effects were evaluated on the cheeks of 13 healthy female test volunteers by comparing with placebo (base). Facial parameters including melanin, erythema, sebum, and visible facial pores (size and area) were studied by using Mexameter^® , Sebumeter^® , and VisioFace^® at regular interval for 90 days.

RESULTS

Total phenolic content and total flavonoids content of C tamala leaves extract were found to be 73.08 ± 0.0078 mg GAE/g and 52.63 ± 0.0060 mg QE/g CT extract respectively. As compared to placebo (base), CT emulgel was found to be significantly (P ≤ .05) effective in minimizing skin photo-damaging effects by reducing the levels of melanin, erythema, and sebum and size and count of both fine and large facial pores.

CONCLUSION

Cinnamomum tamala leaves extract, being a rich source of phenols and flavonoids minimized the photo-damaging effects by reducing skin melanin, erythema, and excess sebum; improving the skin imperfections by reducing facial pore count and area as assessed by advanced imaging and bioengineering techniques.

In vivo skin fluorescence imaging in young Caucasian adults with early malignant melanomas

Background

Human cutaneous malignant melanoma (CMM) is an aggressive cancer showing a dramatic worldwide increase in incidence over the past few decades. The most prominent relative epidemiological increase has been disclosed in young women. The aim of the study was to assess the effects of chronic sun exposures in order to rate the extend of melanocytic stimulations in the vicinity of CMM.

Methods

The study was designed to evaluate the melanin distribution and density using ultraviolet light illumination. The present study was performed on surgical excision specimens of thin CMM lesion removed from the upper limbs of 55 Caucasian adults (37 women and 18 men). Two control groups comprised 23 men and 21 women of similar ages who had medium-size congenital melanocytic nevi, also present on the upper limbs. The peritumoral skin was scrutinized using a Visioscan^® VC98 device, revealing the faint mosaic melanoderma (FMM) pattern that grossly indicates early signs of chronic photodamage in epidermal melanin units.

Results

The median extent of relative FMM was significantly higher in the CMM male group. By contrast, the CMM female group showed a reverse bimodal distribution in FMM size. Only 12/37 (32.5%) of the CMM female group had an increased FMM size, whereas 25/37 (67.5%) of females with CMM had a global FMM extent in the normal range, relative to the controls.

Conclusion

Thin CMM supervening in young women appear unrelated to repeat photoexposure. Other mechanisms are possibly involved.

Asymmetric facial skin viscoelasticity during climacteric aging

Background

Climacteric skin aging affects certain biophysical characteristics of facial skin. The purpose of the present study was to assess the symmetric involvement of the cheeks in this stage of the aging process.

Methods

Skin viscoelasticity was compared on both cheeks in premenopausal and post-menopausal women with indoor occupational activities somewhat limiting the influence of chronic sun exposure. Eighty-four healthy women comprising 36 premenopausal women and 48 early post-menopausal women off hormone replacement therapy were enrolled in two groups. The tensile characteristics of both cheeks were tested and compared in each group. A computerized suction device equipped with a 2 mm diameter hollow probe was used to derive viscoelasticity parameters during a five-cycle procedure of 2 seconds each. Skin unfolding, intrinsic distensibility, biological elasticity, and creep extension were measured.

Results

Both biological elasticity and creep extension were asymmetric on the cheeks of the post-menopausal women. In contrast, these differences were more discrete in the premenopausal women.

Conclusion

Facial skin viscoelasticity appeared to be asymmetric following menopause. The possibility of asymmetry should be taken into account in future studies of the effects of hormone replacement therapy and any antiaging procedure on the face in menopausal women.

Streamlining cutaneous melanomas in young women of the Belgian Mosan region

Sporadic cutaneous melanoma (SCM) has shown a dramatic increase in incidence in Caucasian populations over the past few decades. A particular epidemiological increase was reported in women during their childbearing age. In the Belgian Mosan region, a progressive unremitting increase in SCM incidence was noticed in young women for the past 35 years. The vast majority of these SCMs were of the superficial type without any obvious relationship with a large number of melanocytic nevi or with signs of frequent and intense sunlight exposures as disclosed by the extent in the mosaic subclinical melanoderma. A series of investigations pointed to a possible relationship linking the development of some SCM to the women hormonal status including the effect of hormonal disruptors. These aspects remain, however, unsettled and controversial. It is possible to differentiate and clearly quantify the SCM shape, size, scalloped border, and variegated pigmentation using computerized morphometry as well as fractal and multifractal methods.