Topical delivery of retinoids counteracts the UVB-induced epidermal vitamin A depletion in hairless mouse

Vitamin A in Skin and Hair: An Update

Vitamin A is a fat-soluble micronutrient necessary for the growth of healthy skin and hair. However, both too little and too much vitamin A has deleterious effects. Retinoic acid and retinal are the main active metabolites of vitamin A. Retinoic acid dose-dependently regulates hair follicle stem cells, influencing the functioning of the hair cycle, wound healing, and melanocyte stem cells. Retinoic acid also influences melanocyte differentiation and proliferation in a dose-dependent and temporal manner. Levels of retinoids decline when exposed to ultraviolet irradiation in the skin. Retinal is necessary for the phototransduction cascade that initiates melanogenesis but the source of that retinal is currently unknown. This review discusses new research on retinoids and their effects on the skin and hair.

ALDH1A1 Deficiency in Gorlin Syndrome Suggests a Central Role for Retinoic Acid and ATM Deficits in Radiation Carcinogenesis

We hypothesize that aldehyde dehydrogenase 1A1 (ALDH1A1) deficiency will result in impaired ataxia-telangiectasia mutated (ATM) activation in a retinoic acid-sensitive fashion. Data supporting this hypothesis include (1) reduced ATM activation in irradiated primary dermal fibroblasts from ALDH1A1-deficient Gorlin syndrome patients (GDFs), relative to ALDH1A1-positive normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDFs) and (2) increased ATM activation by X-radiation in GDFs pretreated with retinoic acid, however, the impact of donor variability on ATM activation in fibroblasts was not assessed and is a prudent consideration in future studies. Clonogenic survival of irradiated cells showed differential responses to retinoic acid as a function of treatment time. Long-term (5 Day) retinoic acid treatment functioned as a radiosensitizer and was associated with downregulation of ATM protein levels. Short-term (7 h) retinoic acid treatment showed a trend toward increased survival of irradiated cells and did not downregulate ATM protein levels. Using a newly developed IncubATR technology, which defines changes in bulk chemical bond patterns in live cells, we can discriminate between the NHDF and GDF phenotypes, but treatment of GDFs with retinoic acid does not induce reversion of bulk chemical bond patterns associated with GDFs toward the NHDF phenotype. Collectively, our preliminary investigation of the Gorlin phenotype has identified deficient ALDH1A1 expression associated with deficient ATM activation as a possible susceptibility factor that is consistent with the high incidence of spontaneous and radiation-induced carcinogenesis in these patients. The IncubATR technology exhibits sufficient sensitivity to detect phenotypic differences in live cells that may be relevant to radiation health effects.

Topical delivery of retinol emulsions co-stabilised by PEO-PCL-PEO triblock copolymers: effect of PCL block length

This article describes enhanced skin permeation and UV/thermal stability of retinol emulsions by the co-stabilisation of Tween20 and biodegradable poly(ethylene oxide)-block-poly(ε-caprolactone)-block-poly(ethylene oxide) (PEO-PCL-PEO) triblock copolymers having different lengths of hydrophobic PCL block. A triblock copolymer with a longer PCL block has a lower hydrophile-lipophile balance (HLB) value. Commercial Retinol 50C® (BASF Co., Ludwigshafen, Germany) was used as the source of retinol. Ultrasonication of the Retinol 50C® emulsion with the triblock copolymers led to an increase in retinol solubilisation and a decrease in average particle size of the resulting retinol emulsion. These characteristics improved skin permeation of retinol through the stratum corneum of artificial skin and subsequent proliferation of viable epidermis cell. Employment of the triblock copolymer with a longer PCL block increased both UV and thermal stabilization of the retinol. These results suggest that HLB and PCL block length are important factors to enhance the topical delivery of retinol into the skin.

Proposed mechanisms of action for retinoid derivatives in the treatment of skin aging

Skin aging (intrinsic aging) and photoaging (extrinsic aging) involve a similar process that leads to the typical creased appearance of the skin, with the progressive loss of its physical and biologic properties. Photoaging is a premature skin aging caused by long-term exposure to the ultraviolet B radiations of the sun, and is more frequently associated to skin cancer than intrinsic aging. Retinoids are natural and synthetic vitamin A derivatives. They are lipophilic molecules and penetrate the epidermis easily. Their biologically active forms can modulate gene expression by binding to nuclear receptors and then to specific DNA sequences. Because of their ability to modulate genes involved in cellular differentiation and proliferation, they appear as good candidates to treat and prevent photoaging. Hyaluronate and collagen, two major constituents of the dermis, are progressively decreased and altered during aging. Various retinoids were shown to increase their synthesis and concentration in the skin and reduce their rate of degradation. Furthermore, retinoids share a common chemical structure containing several conjugated double bonds that enable them to trap free radicals and absorb UV radiations from the sun, thereby protecting cellular targets such as DNA, lipid membranes, or proteins by preventing direct photochemical damage or UV-induced oxidative stress. Therefore, retinoids may be beneficial in treating skin aging and photoaging because of their biologic, chemical, and physical properties, which act at several levels.

UVA and UVB decrease the expression of CD44 and hyaluronate in mouse epidermis, which is counteracted by topical retinoids

The transmembrane glycoprotein CD44 is currently thought to be the main cell surface receptor for the glycosaminoglycan hyaluronate. We previously showed that (1) CD44 regulate keratinocyte proliferation; (2) topical retinoids dramatically increase the expression of CD44, hyaluronate and hyaluronate synthase (HAS)s in mouse epidermis; (3) topical retinaldehyde restores the epidermal thickness and CD44 expression which are correlated with clinical improvement in lichen sclerosus et atrophicus lesions; and (4) retinaldehyde-induced proliferative response of keratinocytes is a CD44-dependent phenomenon and requires the presence of HB-EGF, erbB1 and matrix metalloproteinases. In this study, we analyzed the effect of UV irradiation on the levels of epidermal hyaluronate and CD44 in mice, as well as its potential prevention by topical retinoids. UVA (10 J/cm(2)) or UVB (1 J/cm(2)) irradiation significantly decreased the expression of CD44 and hyaluronate in the epidermis of hairless mice after 2 h. Expression of both epidermal CD44 and hyaluronate was reconstituted within 24 h. Topical application of retinaldehyde for 3 days prior to UVA or UVB irradiation prevented the decrease of CD44 and hyaluronate expression. Topical retinol and retinoic acid also increased the basal levels of epidermal CD44 and hyaluronate, although their preventive effect on UV-induced decrease of these molecules was less pronounced as compared to topical retinaldehyde. These data confirm the relationships between retinoid and CD44 pathways, although the primary target(s) of UV leading to CD44 and hyaluronate degradation remain to be elucidated.

Physiological Role of Retinyl Palmitate in the Skin

The skin is similar to other organs in how it absorbs, stores, and metabolizes vitamin A. However, because of the anatomical location of skin and the specialized physiological roles it plays, there are ways in which the skin is rather unique. The stratified structure of the epidermis results from the orchestration of retinoid-influenced cellular division and differentiation. Similarly, many of the physiological responses of the skin, such as dermal aging, immune defense, and wound healing, are significantly affected by retinoids. While much is known about the molecular events through which retinoids affect the skin's responses, more remains to be learned. Interest in the effects of retinol, retinyl palmitate, and other retinoids on the skin, fueled in part by the promise of improved dermatologic and cosmetic products, will undoubtedly make the effects of retinoids on skin a subject for continued intense investigation.

Retinoids in cosmeceuticals

Retinoids are natural and synthetic vitamin A derivatives. They are lipophilic molecules and easily penetrate the epidermis. Their biologically active forms can modulate the expression of genes involved in cellular differentiation and proliferation. Retinoic acid (tretinoin), its 13-cis isomer isotretinoin, as well as various synthetic retinoids are used for therapeutic purposes, whereas retinaldehyde, retinol, and retinyl esters, because of their controlled conversion to retinoic acid or their direct receptor-independent biologic action, can be used as cosmeceuticals. These natural retinoic acid precursors are thus expected to be helpful in (i) renewing epidermal cells, (ii) acting as UV filters, (iii) preventing oxidative stress, (iv) controlling cutaneous bacterial flora, and (v) improving skin aging and photoaging. Retinol and retinyl esters are not irritant, whereas demonstrating only a modest clinical efficiency. On the other hand, retinaldehyde, which is fairly well tolerated, seems to be the most efficient cosmeceutical retinoid; it has significant efficiency toward oxidative stress, cutaneous bacterial flora, epidermis renewing, and photoaging.

Spectral properties of topical retinoids prevent DNA damage and apoptosis after acute UV-B exposure in hairless mice

We showed in a recent study that topical retinyl palmitate prevented UV-B-induced DNA damage and erythema in humans. Given that retinyl palmitate is a precursor of retinoic acid, the biological form of vitamin A that acts through nuclear receptors, we wondered whether these protective effects toward UV-B exposure were either receptor dependent or linked to other properties of the retinoid molecule such as its spectral properties. We determined the epidermal retinoid profile induced by topical retinoic acid in hairless mice and analyzed its effect on markers of DNA photodamage (thymine dimers) and apoptosis following acute UV-B exposure; we compared these effects to those induced by other natural topical retinoids (retinaldehyde, retinol and retinyl palmitate) which do not directly activate the retinoid receptors. We then analyzed the direct action of these retinoids on UV-B-induced DNA damage and apoptosis in cultured A431 keratinocytes. Topical retinoic acid significantly decreased (approximately 50%) the number of apoptotic cells, as well as the formation of thymine dimers in the epidermis of mice exposed to acute UV-B. Interestingly, the other topical retinoids decreased apoptosis and DNA damage in a similar way. On the other hand, neither retinoic acid nor the other retinoids interfered with the apoptotic process in A431 keratinocytes exposed to UV-B, whereas DNA photodamage was slightly decreased. We conclude that the decrease of apoptotic cells in hairless mouse epidermis following topical retinoids and UV-B irradiation reflects a protection of the primary targets of UV-B (DNA) by a mechanism independent of the activation of retinoid nuclear receptors, rather than a direct inhibition of apoptosis.

Slow internal release of bioactive compounds under the effect of skin enzymes

A new strategy for the skin delivery of bioactive compounds has been developed, using enzymes involved in the maintenance of the epidermal barrier function and the enzymatic transformation of corresponding precursors. This new strategy has been tested with regard to two enzymatic activities of the skin barrier: extracellular glucosidase and esterase/lipase. An analysis of the requirements for the glycosidic bond hydrolysis of any glycoconjugate by beta-glucocerebrosidase indicates that the release of the moiety linked to the glucose unit is obtained as long as the glycosidic bond being broken is not hindered, and as long as the leaving group property of the released moiety is good enough. This strategy was first applied to the release of the antioxidant delta-tocopherol. It was then extended to retinoic acid by introducing a spacer between the glucose unit and the bioactive moiety. This spacer was either a good leaving group such as hydroquinone, or a structure akin to a ceramide, namely glycerol. In these conditions, beta-glucocerebrosidase releases the complex spacer-active compound that is cleaved by an esterase. One of the advantages of this strategy lies in the slow release of the bioactive compound, extending in time its effect and most likely its tolerance, as is the case for retinoic acid.

Pharmacology of RALGA, a Mixture of Retinaldehyde and Glycolic Acid

BACKGROUND

Retinoids and alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) are major compounds in topical therapy. They exert distinct but potentially complementary activities. However, their association is limited by their respective irritating potential. Recently, the first association between a retinoid and an AHA has been achieved; this formulation (RALGA) associates retinaldehyde (RAL)--a precursor of retinoic acid (RA)--and glycolic acid (GA)--an AHA.

OBJECTIVE

To study the pharmacological properties of RALGA.

METHODS

The bioavailability of RAL into the skin after topical RALGA was studied by HPLC, and its bioconversion to RA was analysed by measuring the enzyme activity of retinaldehyde dehydrogenase and the RA content in the epidermis and dermis. The retinoid activity of RALGA was studied on the modulation of Hhb4 keratin mRNA on the tail of C57BL/6 mice, and its comedolytic properties on the size and density of dermal cysts and the morphology of sebaceous glands in hairless mice.

RESULTS

Epidermal and dermal concentrations of RAL and RA were higher after RALGA treatment, as compared to both RAL 0.1% alone and RA 0.05% alone; this indicates that the presence of GA favours the bioavailability and biotransformation of RAL into RA. The retinoid activity of RALGA (suppression of Hhb4 mRNA keratin) was similar to that of RAL alone, indicating that the presence of GA does not interfere with specific retinoid activity; GA alone had no effect in this test, which confirms the specificity of Hhb4 mRNA keratin modulation for retinoid activity. The diameter and the density of dermal cysts as well as the size of sebaceous glands were significantly decreased by RALGA.

CONCLUSION

These observations indicate that the addition of an AHA such as GA to a retinoid such as RAL results in a better bioavailability of the retinoid, thus a higher delivery of RA, which potentiates the biological activities of the retinoid. This combination allows a delivery of high amounts of RA in the skin while preventing the side-effects usually observed with high concentrations of topical RA.

Penetration and Metabolism of Topical Retinoids in ex vivo Organ-Cultured Full-Thickness Human Skin Explants

The human epidermis contains endogenous retinoids [retinol (vitamin A) and retinyl esters] and carotenoids (mostly beta-carotene). Previous studies in the mouse have shown that the enzymes involved in retinoid metabolism are present in the epidermis. In this study, we wanted to assess the skin penetration and metabolism of topical retinoids in the human. To do this, fresh surgically excised human abdominal skin was mounted on Franz perfusion cells. Topical retinoic acid, retinal, retinol and retinyl palmitate were applied at 2.5 mg/cm(2) in oil-in-water creams containing 0.05% retinoids on the donor compartment, while the receptor compartment was filled with culture medium. The skin was incubated for 24 h at 37 degrees C, then epidermal retinoid concentrations were determined by HPLC. The same experiment was performed with mouse back skin mounted on Franz cells. Finally, topical retinoids were applied on the back of hairless mice for 24 h; then the mice were sacrificed and retinoid concentrations were assayed in the epidermis. In all three models, retinol and its esters were found to be endogenous, as was the case in previous studies in the mouse in vivo. The four applied retinoids penetrated well into the epidermis. Topical retinoic acid did not increase endogenous retinoids, whereas the latter were greatly increased following topical retinal in the mouse. Retinal was also metabolized into retinoic acid, unlike topical retinol and retinyl palmitate, which only increased endogenous retinoids. Topical retinal and retinol did undergo a higher metabolism in both mouse models than in human skin. In summary, the penetration and metabolism patterns of topical retinoids were quite similar in the two mouse models used, indicating that the Franz cells appear to be a good model to predict in vivo metabolism of topical retinoids. When applying this concept to our results obtained in Franz cells with human skin, we conclude that topical retinol and retinal load human skin with both storage and functional vitamin A.

Photoreaction, phototoxicity, and photocarcinogenicity of retinoids

Sunlight is a human carcinogen. Many retinoid-containing cosmetics are used to protect damages caused by sunlight irradiation. Since retinol is thermally unstable and retinyl palmitate (RP) s relatively more stable, RP is also widely used as an ingredient in cosmetic formulations. In general, little is known about the photodecomposition of retinoids and the toxicity of retinoids and their photodecomposition products on the skin's responses to sunlight. This review focuses on the update information on photoreactions, phototoxicity, and photocarcinogenicity of the natural retinoids including retinol, retinal, retinoid acid (RA), retinyl acetate, and RP.

Vitamin A Exerts a Photoprotective Action in Skin by Absorbing Ultraviolet B Radiation

Retinyl esters, a storage form of vitamin A, concentrate in the epidermis, and absorb ultraviolet radiation with a maximum at 325 nm. We wondered whether these absorbing properties of retinyl esters might have a biologically relevant filter activity. We first used an in vitro model to assess the photoprotective properties of retinyl palmitate. We then applied topical retinyl palmitate on the back of hairless mice before exposing them to 1 J per cm2 ultraviolet B, and assayed the levels of thymine dimers produced in epidermal DNA 2 h following ultraviolet B exposure. Finally, we applied topical retinyl palmitate or a sunscreen on the buttocks of human volunteers before exposing them to four minimal erythema doses of ultraviolet B; we assayed the levels of thymine dimers produced 2 h following ultraviolet B exposure, and determined the intensity of erythema 24 h after ultraviolet B. In vitro, retinyl palmitate was shown to be as efficient as the commercial filter octylmethoxycinnamate in preventing ultraviolet-induced fluorescence or photobleaching of fluorescent markers. The formation of thymine dimers in mouse epidermis was significantly inhibited by topical retinyl palmitate. In human subjects, topical retinyl palmitate was as efficient as a sun protection factor 20 sunscreen in preventing sunburn erythema as well as the formation of thymine dimers. These results demonstrate that epidermal retinyl esters have a biologically relevant filter activity and suggest, besides their pleomorphic biologic actions, a new role for vitamin A that concentrates in the epidermis.

A retrospective study of the effect of long-term topical application of retinaldehyde (0.05%) on the development of actinic keratosis

BACKGROUND

The role of topical retinoids on photocarcinogenesis is still unclear. Retinaldehyde is a natural metabolite of vitamin A used as a cosmetic product. Its effect on actinic keratoses has not been studied to date.

OBJECTIVE

To study the incidence of actinic keratoses during long-term application of retinaldehyde in order to evaluate a possible chemoprophylactic effect.

METHODS

We conducted a retrospective study on 61 patients who had applied retinaldehyde on photoexposed body areas for a period ranging from 6 to 142 months. We counted the total number of actinic keratoses and cutaneous tumors that appeared over the time of exposure to retinaldehyde.

RESULTS

The epidemiological characteristics of actinic keratoses were not modified by the application of retinaldehyde. Irregular application as compared to regular application of retinaldehyde was not associated with a change in the risk of actinic keratoses, suggesting that continuous use is not associated per se with a higher risk of actinic keratoses.

CONCLUSION

With the statistical power limitation of this study, retinaldehyde applied alone does not appear to have prophylactic effects on the development of actinic keratoses. The design adopted is feasible to study the safety of cosmetic products applied for a long period of time.

Oxidative stress-independent depletion of epidermal vitamin A by UVA

In hairless mice, epidermal vitamin A (retinol and retinyl esters) is strongly decreased following a single exposure to UVB. Here, using the same mouse model, we studied the effects of UVA on epidermal vitamin A content, lipid peroxidation, and CRBP-I expression, as well as the putative prevention of vitamin A depletion or lipid peroxidation by topical alpha-tocopherol. An acute exposure to UVA completely depleted epidermal vitamin A with EC50 of 0.25 and 0.5 J per cm2 for retinyl esters and retinol, respectively; these values were 0.1 J per cm2 for both retinoids under UVB exposure. CRBP-I expression was increased 2-fold 8 h following UVA exposure (10 J per cm2), and this increase persisted for at least 16 h. A single UVA exposure induced a concentration-dependent epidermal lipid peroxidation (EC50 = 3.5 J per cm2) giving rise to 55.4 +/- 4.2 nmol lipid peroxides per g at 20 J per cm2, whereas UVB, up to 1 J per cm2, did not increase the basal concentration of 6.7 +/- 0.9 nmol lipid peroxides per g. On the other hand, topical menadione induced a concentration-dependent lipid peroxidation, but did not affect vitamin A content. Pretreatment with alpha-tocopherol (i) did not inhibit UV-induced vitamin A depletion, (ii) completely inhibited the increased lipid peroxidation induced by UVA or menadione, and (iii) accelerated reconstitution of epidermal vitamin A after UVB but not UVA induced depletion. Thus acute UVA induced both epidermal vitamin A depletion and lipid peroxidation, UVB induced only vitamin A depletion, and menadione induced only a lipid peroxidation; topical alpha-tocopherol prevented lipid peroxidation but not vitamin A depletion. These observations indicate (i) that CRBP-I neither provides protection to UVB- and UVA-induced epidermal vitamin A depletion, nor interferes significantly with reconstitution, and (ii) that the UV-induced vitamin A depletion and lipid peroxidation in mouse epidermis are unrelated processes. UV light does not destroy epidermal vitamin A through an oxidative stress but probably by a photochemical reaction in which UV radiations at about 325 nm give the corresponding activation energy.

Isomerization of 11-cis-retinoids to all-trans-retinoids in vitro and in vivo

The regeneration of 11-cis-retinal, the universal chromophore of the vertebrate retina, is a complex process involving photoreceptors and adjacent retinal pigment epithelial cells (RPE). 11-cis-Retinal is coupled to opsins in both rod and cone photoreceptor cells and is photoisomerized to all-trans-retinal by light. Here, we show that RPE microsomes can catalyze the reverse isomerization of 11-cis-retinol to all-trans-retinol (and 13-cis-retinol), and membrane exposure to UV light further enhances the rate of this reaction. This conversion is inhibited when 11-cis-retinol is in a complex with cellular retinaldehyde-binding protein (CRALBP), providing a clear demonstration of the protective effect of retinoid-binding proteins in retinoid processes in the eye, a function that has been long suspected but never proven. The reverse isomerization is nonenzymatic and specific to alcohol forms of retinoids, and it displays stereospecific preference for 11-cis-retinol and 13-cis-retinol but is much less efficient for 9-cis-retinol. The mechanism of reverse isomerization was investigated using stable isotope-labeled retinoids and radioactive tracers to show that this reaction occurs with the retention of configuration of the C-15 carbon of retinol through a mechanism that does not eliminate the hydroxyl group, in contrast to the enzymatic all-trans-retinol to 11-cis-retinol reaction. The activation energy for the conversion of 11-cis-retinol to all-trans-retinol is 19.5 kcal/mol, and 20.1 kcal/mol for isomerization of 13-cis-retinol to all-trans-retinol. We also demonstrate that the reverse isomerization occurs in vivo using exogenous 11-cis-retinol injected into the intravitreal space of wild type and Rpe65-/- mice, which have defective forward isomerization. This study demonstrates an uncharacterized activity of RPE microsomes that could be important in the normal flow of retinoids in the eye in vivo during dark adaptation.

Cutaneous vitamins A and E in the context of ultraviolet- or chemically-induced oxidative stress

Vitamins A and E are present in mammalian skin. Although the main circulating form of vitamin A in the blood is retinol, the epidermis stores it as retinyl esters. The epidermis can be easily loaded with high amounts of vitamin A by topical application of either retinol or retinaldehyde, two well-tolerated precursors of the biologically active retinoic acid, while topical alpha-tocopherol loads the epidermis with vitamin E. The probable physiological function of epidermal vitamin E is to contribute to the antioxidant defense of the skin, whereas that of epidermal vitamin A (retinol and retinyl esters) is not yet well understood. Besides being a precursor for retinoic acid, vitamin A also has a free radical scavenging potential. Due to their physical properties, vitamins A and E absorb ultraviolet (UV) light in the region of solar spectrum that is responsible for most of the deleterious biological effects of the sun. In the mouse, topical vitamin A has been shown to prevent the UV-induced epidermal hypovitaminosis A, while topical vitamin E prevents oxidative stress and cutaneous and systemic immunosuppression elicited by UV. Thus constitutive epidermal vitamins A and E appear complementary in preventing UV-induced deleterious cutaneous and systemic effects, and these properties can be reinforced by topical application of retinol or retinaldehyde and topical alpha-tocopherol.

Skin, sun, and vitamin A: from aging to cancer

Human epidermis contains significant amounts of Vitamin A, the enzymes responsible for its metabolism toward either storage or activation, the binding proteins for its protection and specific transport, and the nuclear receptors involved in the vitamin A-induced gene-activity modulation. This complex system may be drastically altered upon ultraviolet light exposure because vitamin A absorbs in the UVB range. We have conducted a series of experiments in order to analyse the effects of UV exposure on the epidermal stores of endogenous vitamin A (retinol and retinyl esters), the activity of enzymes and binding proteins, and some biological parameters such as apoptosis transcription factors expression (cJun) and thymine dimers. Current data indicate that the vitamin A system is a direct target of both UVB and UVA and participates in an adaptive response to UV exposure. The physiological role of this adaptive response to acute and chronic sun exposure should be further analysed. Interfering with this UV-induced vitamin A deficiency is a new concept for the prevention of skin cancer and aging.