Design of a photostabilizer having built-in antioxidant functionality and its utility in obtaining broad-spectrum sunscreen formulations

Evaluation of the photoprotective and antioxidant potential of an avobenzone derivative

Solar radiation can cause damage to the skin, and the use of sunscreens is one of the main protective measures. However, photounstable ultraviolet (UV) filters can generate photoproducts and reactive oxygen species (ROS). Adding antioxidants, such as resveratrol, to enhance the action of UV filters in sunscreens is an interesting strategy for reducing the damage caused by UV radiation exposure. However, new compounds must have their stability, safety and efficacy guaranteed. Avobenzone, a commonly used UV filter, stands out as a promising candidate for structural modification to enhance its stability. Its molecular hybridization with other UV filters and antioxidants can lead to safer and more effective compounds. In this study, the photoprotective and antioxidant potential of a derivative of avobenzone, hybridized with resveratrol's molecule, was evaluated using in vitro models of cells in monolayer and reconstructed human skin (RHS). Phototoxic potential was assessed using fibroblasts, while the antioxidant activity was measured using the DCFH2-DA probe in HaCaT keratinocytes and in-house RHS. The derivative exhibited UV absorption and demonstrated photostability. It did not exhibit any phototoxic nor photoreactivity potential. Additionally, it was able to photo stabilize a combination of photounstable UV filters, avobenzone and octyl methoxycinnamate, and to reduce their phototoxic potential. In terms of antioxidant activity, the derivative successfully protected against UVA-induced ROS production in the HaCaT keratinocytes model, showing statistical equivalence to the antioxidant control, quercetin (10 μg/mL). Furthermore, experiments conducted in the RHS model demonstrated a significant reduction of 30.7% in ROS generation compared to the irradiated control. This study demonstrated that structural modifications of avobenzone can lead to the development of a broad spectrum (absorbing UVB and UVA II radiation, as well as a portion of the UVA I radiation), non-phototoxic, non-photoreactive and photostable derivative for sunscreen and anti-aging formulations. This derivative enhances protection against oxidative stress induced by UV radiation and improves the effectiveness of sun protection. In addition to the monolayer model, the use of a standardized in-house RHS model was highly relevant for evaluating the effects of UV radiation and skin aging. This model closely mimics human physiological conditions and enables the testing of new compounds and the investigation of protective mechanisms against skin damage.

Drug Delivery Strategies for Avobenzone: A Case Study of Photostabilization

Several developments and research methods are ongoing in drug technology and chemistry research to elicit effectiveness regarding the therapeutic activity of drugs along with photoprotection for their molecular integrity. The detrimental effect of UV light induces damaged cells and DNA, which leads to skin cancer and other phototoxic effects. The application of sunscreen shields to the skin is important, along with recommended UV filters. Avobenzone is widely used as a UVA filter for skin photoprotection in sunscreen formulations. However, keto-enol tautomerism propagates photodegradation into it, which further channelizes the phototoxic and photoirradiation effects, further limiting its use. Several approaches have been used to counter these issues, including encapsulation, antioxidants, photostabilizers, and quenchers. To seek the gold standard approach for photoprotection in photosensitive drugs, combinations of strategies have been implemented to identify effective and safe sunscreen agents. The stringent regulatory guidelines for sunscreen formulations, along with the availability of limited FDA-approved UV filters, have led many researchers to develop perfect photostabilization strategies for available photostable UV filters, such as avobenzone. From this perspective, the objective of the current review is to summarize the recent literature on drug delivery strategies implemented for the photostabilization of avobenzone that could be useful to frame industrially oriented potential strategies on a large scale to circumvent all possible photounstable issues of avobenzone.

Chemical Composition and Protective Effect of Young Barley (Hordeum vulgare L.) Dietary Supplements Extracts on UV-Treated Human Skin Fibroblasts in In Vitro Studies

Young barley seems to be a promising material for use as nutricosmetic due to the presence of many biologically active compounds. The aim of this study was to evaluate the effect of Hordeum vulgare L. extracts on human skin fibroblasts exposed to ultraviolet radiation B (UVB) radiation. Analysis of the chemical composition showed a predominance of 9,12,15-octadecatrienoic acid. The quality assessment showed that young barley preparations have high total polyphenolic content (TPC) and favourable total antioxidant status (TAS). They also contain antioxidant elements such as zinc, copper, and selenium. Furthermore, the analyzed products were found to be safe in terms of toxic elements (lead, cadmium and mercury) and lack of cytotoxic effect of young barley extracts on cells. In vitro bioactivity assays showed that young barley extract increased the survival rate and accelerated the migration of fibroblasts in research models with UVB radiation. The application of both extracts caused an increase in DNA biosynthesis, and in the number of cells arrested in S phase. Moreover, an inhibitory effect of the tested extracts on the expression of matrix metalloproteinase 2 (MMP-2) and matrix metalloproteinase 9 (MMP-9) was observed. The results indicate that young barley extracts, due to protective as well as restorative effect, could potentially be used in the production of nutricosmetics and skin care products.

Sunscreens and their usefulness: have we made any progress in the last two decades?

Sunscreens have now been around for decades to mitigate the Sun's damaging ultraviolet (UV) radiation which, although essential for the existence of life, is a recognized prime carcinogen. Accordingly, have suncreams achieved their intended purposes towards protection against sunburns, skin photo-ageing and the like? Most importantly, however, have they provided the expected protection against skin cancers that current sunscreen products claim to do? In the last two decades, there have been tens, if not hundreds of studies on sunscreens with respect to skin protection against UVB (280‒320 nm)-traditionally sunscreens with rather low sun protection factors (SPF) were intended to protect against this type of radiation-and UVA (320‒400 nm) radiation; a distinction between SPF and UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) is made. Many of the studies of the last two decades have focused on protection against the more skin-penetrating UVA radiation. This non-exhaustive article reviews some of the important facets of what is currently known about sunscreens with regard (i) to the physical UV filters titanium dioxide (TiO₂) and zinc oxide (ZnO) and the mostly photo-unstable chemical UVB/UVA filters (e.g., octinoxate (OMC) and avobenzone (AVO), among others), (ii) to novel chemical sunscreen agents, (iii) to means that minimize the breakdown of chemical filters and improve their stability when exposed to UV sunlight, (iv) to SPF factors, and (v) to a short discussion on non-melanoma skin cancers and melanoma. Importantly, throughout the article we allude to the safety aspects of sunscreens and at the end ask the question: do active ingredients in sunscreen products pose a risk to human health, and what else can be done to enhance protection? Significant loss of skin protection from two well-known commercial suncreams when exposed to simulated UV sunlight. Cream I: titanium dioxide, ethylhexyl triazone, avobenzone, and octinoxate; Cream II: octyl salicylate, oxybenzone, avobenzone, and octinoxate.

The effect of deuteration on the keto-enol equilibrium and photostability of the sunscreen agent avobenzone

The remarkable properties of deuterium have led to many exciting and favourable results in enhancing material properties, for applications in the physical, medical, and biological sciences. Deuterated isotopologues of avobenzone, a sunscreen active ingredient, were synthesised to examine for any changes to the equilibrium between the diketone and enol isomers, as well as their UV photostability and photoprotective properties. Prior to UV irradiation, deuteration of the diketone methylene/enol moiety (i.e. avobenzone-d2) led to an increase in the % diketone compared to non-deuterated, determined by 1H NMR experiments in CDCl3 and C6D12. This can be rationalised from two angles; mechanistically by a deuterium kinetic isotope effect for the CH vs. CD abstraction step during tautomerisation from the diketone to the enol, and a weaker chelating hydrogen bond for the enol when deuterated allowing increased equilibration to the diketone. Avobenzone-d2 was further examined by solid state 13C NMR. The higher % diketone for avobenzone-d2 was postulated to favour increased photodegradation by a non-reversible pathway. This was investigated by UV irradiation of the avobenzone isotopologues in C6D12, both in real time in situ within the NMR by fibre optic cable as well as ex situ using sunlight. An increase in the relative amount of photoproducts for avobenzone-d2 compared to non-deuterated was observed by 1H NMR upon UV irradiation ex situ. Overall, the study demonstrates that deuteration can be applied to alter complex equilibria, and has potential to be manifested as changes to the properties and behaviour of materials.

Glutathione as a photo-stabilizer of avobenzone: an evaluation under glass-filtered sunlight using UV-spectroscopy

Avobenzone is the most widely used UVA filter in sunscreen lotion and it is prone to degradation in the presence of sunlight/UV radiation. To overcome the photo-instability of avobenzone, various photostabilizers have been used as additives, including antioxidants such as vitamin C, vitamin E, and ubiquinone. In the present study, the well known antioxidant, glutathione, was evaluated for protecting avobenzone from photodegradation in the presence of glass-filtered sunlight. The features of glutathione as a skin whitener and a radical scavenger in cells have prompted the assessment of the photostabilzing activity of glutathione on avobenzone. Glutathione significantly attenuated the glass-filtered sunlight-induced degradation of avobenzone at equimolar or higher ratios of glutathione and avobenzone. Mutational studies have been undertaken to investigate the role of the thiol group and the isopeptide bond of glutathione on its photoprotection activity towards avobenzone. The thiol group of glutathione plays a vital role in exhibiting the photoprotection activity, which was further supported by the studies on photodegradation of avobonzone in the presence of β-mercaptoethanol. The dual role of glutathione as a skin whitening agent and a photostabilizer of avobenzone may be useful for the development of multipurpose cosmetic lotions.

Sebusuppressive efficacy of the antioxidant bis-ethylhexyl hydroxydimethoxy benzylmalonate in the treatment of oily and blemished skin

The aim of this study was to assess the effect of 2% bis-ethylhexyl hydroxydimethoxy benzylmalonate (HDBM; RonaCare(®) AP) as an active ingredient in the treatment of oily and blemished skin. This study was carried out as a randomized, placebo-controlled, single-blind study on 44 test subjects with blemished skin over a period of 8 weeks. Sebum measurement, skin inflammation/redness scoring by an expert, photographic documentation and a self-assessment with regard to skin improvement, and tests of skin compatibility and galenic characteristics were performed. Treatment with 2% HDBM resulted in a significant reduction of sebum excretion and showed efficacy against inflamed/red lesions also shown by photographic documentation. Efficacy and galenic performance of 2% HDBM were judged to be superior to the placebo emulsion. Additionally, 2% HDBM was well tolerated; approximately 80% of the test subjects rated the compatibility as good to very good.

Lipid nanoparticles based on butyl-methoxydibenzoylmethane: in vitro UVA blocking effect

The aim of the present study was to obtain efficient lipid nanoparticles loaded with butyl-methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDBM) in order to develop cosmetic formulations with enhanced UVA blocking effect. For this purpose, two adequate liquid lipids (medium chain triglycerides and squalene) have been used in combination with two solid lipids (cetyl palmitate and glyceryl stearate) in order to create appropriate nanostructured carriers with a disordered lipid network able to accommodate up to 1.5% BMDBM. The lipid nanoparticles (LNs) were characterized in terms of particle size, zeta potential, entrapment efficiency, loading capacity and in vitro UVA blocking effect. The efficiency of lipid nanoparticles in developing some cosmetic formulations has been evaluated by determining the in vitro erythemal UVA protection factor. In order to quantify the photoprotective effect, some selected cream formulations based on BMDBM-LNs and a conventional emulsion were exposed to photochemical UV irradiation at a low energy to simulate the solar energy during the midday. The results obtained demonstrated the high ability of cream formulations based on BMDBM-LNs to absorb more than 96% of UVA radiation. Moreover, the developed cosmetic formulations manifest an enhanced UVA blocking effect, the erythemal UVA protection factor being four times higher than those specific to conventional emulsions.

Review of sunscreen and the emergence of non-conventional absorbers and their applications in ultraviolet protection

Protection against ultraviolet (UV) radiation is the major function of sunscreen lotions and UV-protective coatings for vehicles, homes, equipment and clothing. Sunscreen formulations have been optimized to become protective over a broader spectrum of UV radiation and maintain greater photostability. They are comprised of organic and inorganic components that act as chemical and physical UV protectors, respectively. Some of the organic components are limited by their spectrum of protection and photostability. Studies using solid lipid nanoparticles, recently explored organic molecules, inorganic components and antioxidants attempt to further optimize UV protection. In this review, we examine traditional and emerging nanoparticle components and highlight novel ideas in UV protection which may provide pathways for future studies.

Characterization of the UVA protection provided by avobenzone, zinc oxide, and titanium dioxide in broad-spectrum sunscreen products

BACKGROUND

Solar UV radiation (UVR) is composed of UVB (290-320 nm) and UVA (320-400 nm) wavelengths. Only two sunscreen active ingredients approved in the US, avobenzone (butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane) and zinc oxide (ZnO), provide true broad-spectrum protection against UVA wavelengths >360 nm. Although effective against shorter UVR wavelengths <360 nm, titanium dioxide (TiO(2)) is also often believed to confer broad-spectrum protection and is substituted for ZnO or avobenzone. To sustain its absorption capacity within a sunscreen film during UVR exposure, avobenzone needs to be formulated into sunscreen products using sound formulation strategies.

OBJECTIVES

To characterize the efficacy of avobenzone, ZnO, and TiO(2) in terms of their abilities to provide broad UVA protection and to demonstrate the effectiveness of the different formulation strategies used today to maintain the efficacy of avobenzone even during prolonged exposures to UVR.

METHODS

UVA efficacy was assessed by measuring absorbance profiles in vitro using Vitro Skin® (IMS Inc., Orange, CT, USA) as an inert substrate and by determining UVA protection factors (PFA) on human skin. The impact of avobenzone loss on sun protection factor (SPF) and PFA values was evaluated by serially reducing avobenzone concentrations in an otherwise photostable product. The photostabilizing influence of specific formulation ingredients was monitored by measuring the extent to which they prevented UVR-induced degradation of avobenzone, whereas photostability of commercial sunscreen products was quantified by measuring the percentage change in absorbance within the UVB and UVA spectral regions following irradiation of thin product films on inert substrates.

RESULTS

Model formulations containing 3% avobenzone or 5% ZnO provided superior attenuation of UVA wavelengths >360 nm compared with formulas containing 5% TiO(2). Additionally, sunscreen products of similar SPF containing avobenzone or ZnO exhibited significantly higher PFA values than those containing TiO(2). The addition of photostabilized avobenzone or ZnO increased PFA values nearly 3-fold, whereas the addition of TiO(2) increased PFA values only modestly. Judicious selection of sunscreen actives alone or in combination with extra stabilizing agents maintained the photostability of avobenzone in formulations to deliver sustained broad-spectrum absorbance during 4 hours of exposure to UVR. Small losses (<20%) of avobenzone did not significantly reduce a product's protective effects as measured by SPF and PFA values on human skin.

CONCLUSIONS

TiO(2) provided neither the same level of UVA attenuation nor the same degree of UVA protection on human skin as did products containing photostabilized avobenzone or ZnO. Hence, TiO(2) cannot be considered a substitute for avobenzone or ZnO in providing high levels of UVA protection to human skin. Use of proper formulation strategies can ensure that avobenzone losses are minimized to the extent that they have no impact on a product's ability to deliver sustained protection, even over periods of prolonged exposure to UVR.

Photostabilization effect of quercetin on the UV filter combination, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane-octyl methoxycinnamate

The aim of the study was to investigate the effect of the natural antioxidant quercetin on the photostability of the most widely used combination of UVA (320-400 nm) and UVB (290-320 nm) filters, respectively butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDBM) and octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC). In order to reproduce the conditions prevalent in commercial sunscreen products, the stabilizing efficacy of quercetin was evaluated in model creams containing BMDBM (3%, wt/wt) together with OMC (4%, wt/wt) and exposed to a solar simulator at an irradiance corresponding to natural sunlight. Quercetin was found to enhance the photostability of the two UV filters in a concentration-dependent way. Addition of quercetin to the sunscreen formulation significantly reduced the photodegradation of BMDBM and OMC from 40.3 +/- 2.4 to 27.7 +/- 2.6% and from 51.3 +/- 2.1 to 42.2 +/- 2.0%, respectively. Moreover, comparative photodegradation studies demonstrated that quercetin was much more effective and at a lower concentration than commonly used stabilizer (octocrylene) and antioxidants (vitamin E, butylated hydroxyanisole). In vitro determination of the UVB and UVA protection parameters showed that the quercetin-based formulation fulfilled the official requirements on sunscreen products. Because of its photostabilizing and multiple antioxidant properties, quercetin represents a useful additive for the formulation of effective broad-spectrum sunscreens containing BMDBM and OMC.

A blocked diketo form of avobenzone: photostability, photosensitizing properties and triplet quenching by a triazine-derived UVB-filter

Novel sunscreens are required providing active protection in the UVA and UVB regions. On the other hand, there is an increasing concern about the photosafety of UV filters, as some of them are not sufficiently photostable. Avobenzone is one of the most frequently employed sunscreen ingredients, but it has been reported to partially decompose after irradiation. In the present work, photophysical and photochemical studies on a methylated avobenzone-derivative have shown that the diketo form is responsible for photodegradation. A transient absorption was observed at 380 nm after laser flash photolysis excitation at 308 nm. It was assigned to the triplet excited state of the diketo form, as inferred from quenching by oxygen and beta-carotene. This transient also interacted with key building blocks of biomolecules by triplet-triplet energy transfer (in the case of thymidine) or electron transfer processes (for 2'-deoxyguanosine, tryptophan and tyrosine). Irradiation of the avobenzone derivative in the presence of a triazine UV-B filter (E-35852) diminished the undesirable effects of the compound by an efficient quenching of the triplet excited state. Thus, sunscreen formulations including triplet quenchers could provide effective protection from the potential phototoxic and photoallergic effects derived from poor photostability of avobenzone.

Photostability of commercial sunscreens upon sun exposure and irradiation by ultraviolet lamps

Background

Sunscreens are being widely used to reduce exposure to harmful ultraviolet (UV) radiation. The fact that some sunscreens are photounstable has been known for many years. Since the UV-absorbing ingredients of sunscreens may be photounstable, especially in the long wavelength region, it is of great interest to determine their degradation during exposure to UV radiation. Our aim was to investigate the photostability of seven commercial sunscreen products after natural UV exposure (UVnat) and artificial UV exposure (UVart).

Methods

Seven commercial sunscreens were studied with absorption spectroscopy. Sunscreen product, 0.5 mg/cm², was placed between plates of silica. The area under the curve (AUC) in the spectrum was calculated for UVA (320–400 nm), UVA1 (340–400 nm), UVA2 (320–340 nm) and UVB (290–320 nm) before (AUC_before) and after (AUC_after) UVart (980 kJ/m² UVA and 12 kJ/m² of UVB) and before and after UVnat. If theAUC Index (AUCI), defined as AUCI = AUC_after/AUC_before, was > 0.80, the sunscreen was considered photostable.

Results

Three sunscreens were unstable after 90 min of UVnat; in the UVA range the AUCI was between 0.41 and 0.76. In the UVB range one of these sunscreens was unstable with an AUCI of 0.75 after 90 min. Three sunscreens were photostable after 120 min of UVnat; in the UVA range the AUCI was between 0.85 and 0.99 and in the UVB range between 0.92 and 1.0. One sunscreen showed in the UVA range an AUCI of 0.87 after UVnat but an AUCI of 0.72 after UVart. Five of the sunscreens were stable in the UVB region.

Conclusion

The present study shows that several sunscreens are photounstable in the UVA range after UVnat and UVart. There is a need for a standardized method to measure photostability, and the photostability should be marked on the sunscreen product.