Effects of UV Radiation on Usnic Acid in Xanthoparmelia microspora (Müll. Arg. Hale)

(+)-Usnic Acid as a Promising Candidate for a Safe and Stable Topical Photoprotective Agent

The study aimed to examine whether usnic acid—a lichen compound with UV-absorbing properties—can be considered as a prospective photoprotective agent in cosmetic products. Moreover, a comparison of two usnic acid enantiomers was performed to preselect the more effective compound. To meet this aim, an in vitro model was created, comprising the determination of skin-penetrating properties via skin-PAMPA assay, safety assessment to normal human skin cells (keratinocytes, melanocytes, fibroblasts), and examination of photostability and photoprotective properties. Both enantiomers revealed comparable good skin-penetrating properties. Left-handed usnic acid was slightly more toxic to keratinocytes (IC₅₀ 80.82 and 40.12 µg/mL, after 48 and 72 h, respectively) than its right-handed counterpart. The latter enantiomer, in a cosmetic formulation, was characterized by good photoprotective properties and photostability, comparable to the UV filter octocrylene. Perhaps most interestingly, (+)-usnic acid combined with octocrylene in one formulation revealed enhanced photoprotection and photostability. Thus, the strategy can be considered for the potential use of (+)-usnic acid as a UV filter in cosmetic products. Moreover, the proposed model may be useful for the evaluation of candidates for UV filters.

Specialized Metabolites of the Lichen Vulpicida pinastri Act as Photoprotective Agents

The extreme resiliency of lichens to UV radiations makes them an interesting model to find new photoprotective agents acting as UV-blockers and antioxidant. In this research, using a new in vitro method designed to overcome the shortage of material associated to many studies dealing with natural products, we show that the three major compounds isolated from the lichen Vulpicida pinastri, vulpinic acid, pinastric acid and usnic acid, were UV blocker agents. Antioxidant assays evidenced superoxide anion scavenging activity. Combination of the most promising compounds against UVB and UVB radiations, usnic acid, vulpinic acid and pinastric acid, increased the photoprotective activity. At the same time, they were found not cytotoxic on keratinocyte cell lines and photostable in the UVA and UVB ranges. Thus, lichens represent an attractive source to find good candidate ingredients as photoprotective agents. Additionally, the uncommon scalemic usnic acid mixture in this Vulpicida species was proven through electronic circular dichroism calculation.

Lichenic extracts and metabolites as UV filters

Three lichen extracts and ten lichenic compounds have been screened for their photoprotective activities. The determination of their Sun Protection Factor (SPF) and Protection Factor-UVA (PF-UVA) values was done in vitro. Among them, a Lasallia pustulata extract and gyrophoric acid exhibited SPF values over 5, which is better than Homosalate (SPF≈4). Their photoprotective properties are only slightly modified after a 2-hours period of irradiation. Salazinic acid and L. pustulata presented characteristics of a UVA booster like the butyl-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone) (PF-UVA≈2 vs. 2.8 for Avobenzone). Salazinic acid was a better anion superoxide scavenger than ascorbic acid and none of them exhibited a photosensitizing cytotoxicity by exposing them on HaCaT cells to UVA radiations (photo-irritancy factor PIF<5).

Prooxidant and antioxidant behaviour of usnic acid from lichens under UVB-light irradiation--studies on human cells

Natural compounds which can behave as antioxidants and protect against UV-radiation may well have medical and cosmetic value. Usnic acid, which can be obtained from lichens offer such a potential. The latter is one of the best known and reviewed compounds present in lichens and exhibits many properties of value such as antibiotic, antitumor and UV-filter-effects. We report studies of the potential antioxidant and prooxidant activity of usnic acid extracted from Xanthoparmelia farinosa (Vainio) using a human lymphocyte cell line (Jurkat-cells) under UV-B-irradiation. Cell survival and cell metabolism were determined using different conditions such as usnic acid concentration and UVB dose. Compared to the controls the cells incubated with usnic acid in concentrations of 1 x 10(-8) and 1 x 10(-6) M showed a higher cell survival and a normal metabolism under low doses of UVB-light up to 0.1 J/cm(2). When both higher UVB doses (up to 14 J/cm(2)) and higher concentrations of usnic acid (1 x 10(-4) M) where used, the opposite effect was observed. It is concluded that these effects are due to bifunctional (a switch of) anti-oxidative-pro-oxidative behaviour of usnic acid under UV-B-irradiation.