Sun protection, progress, myths, and inconsistencies (a proposal for the democratization of ISO 24443)

The concept of modern human sun protection is no more than one hundred years, but real development of it, including protection against UVA + UVB radiation (and more recently also the IR and blue light), has been no more than 30 years. One fundamental issue while formulating sunscreens is the photostability of the UV filters, which is particularly feeble for the UVA. The gold standard for the determination of sunscreen UVA protection "in vitro" is ISO 24443:2021. Still, interlaboratory results are not as consistent as expected. The Technical Committee for Cosmetics (ISO TC 217) has tried to standardize the method with precise specifications for the materials and equipment used. In particular, the standardization of UV exposure sources based on Xe arc lamps. This fact requires expensive equipment out of the reach of many laboratories to achieve adequate temperature control on the samples. In this paper, it will be shown that, within the experimental error, satisfactory results were achieved with a cheap commercial LED source irradiating only in the UVA spectra. Evidence is presented to conclude that other more relevant factors must be considered as the main cause of uncertainties.

Analytical tools and evaluation strategies for nanostructured lipid carrier-based topical delivery systems

INTRODUCTION

The inception of nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) proved to be a revolutionary step toward the treatment of dermatological disorders. To uncover its true potential, it is imperative that the system be characterized and evaluated comprehensively.

AREAS COVERED

The present review has been written to furnish an in-depth account of analytical tools and evaluation procedures under one roof. Besides discussing the challenges of topical delivery and benefits of NLCs, the paper elaborates on their physicochemical characterization. Further, in vitro evaluation of NLCs for dermatological benefits, followed by their evaluation in a hydrogel/cream base is covered. Lastly, disease-specific evaluation of NLC-based formulations is presented.

EXPERT OPINION

The research endeavors for NLCs have largely focused on the fabrication of NLCs for different bioactives. However, scientific efforts should be aimed toward the lesser explored realm of NLCs, i.e. exploitation of analytical techniques, such as Parelectric spectroscopy, Electron Spin Resonance, and Nuclear Magnetic Resonance spectroscopy. NLCs have been proven for their potential to foster the therapeutic modalities applicable to cutaneous disorders. More attention needs to be devoted to their evaluation for disease-specific parameters. The futuristic steps must involve clinical studies, to lay the path for their commercialization.

A Perspective on the Ultrafast Photochemistry of Solution-Phase Sunscreen Molecules

Sunscreens are one of the most common ways of providing on-demand additional photoprotection to the skin. Ultrafast transient absorption spectroscopy has recently proven to be an invaluable tool in understanding how the components of commercial sunscreen products display efficient photoprotection. Important examples of how this technique has unravelled the photodynamics of common components are given in this Perspective, and some of the remaining unanswered questions are discussed.

Drug-inorganic-polymer nanohybrid for transdermal delivery

For transdermal drug delivery, we prepared a drug-inorganic nanohybrid (FB-LDH) by intercalating a transdermal model drug, flurbiprofen (FB), into the layered double hydroxides (LDHs) via coprecipitation reaction. The X-ray diffraction patterns and FT-IR spectra of the FB-LDH indicated that the FB molecules were successfully intercalated via electrostatic interaction within the LDH lattices. The in vitro drug release revealed that the Eudragit(®) S-100 in release media could facilitate the drug out-diffusion by effectively replacing the intercalated drug and also enlarging the lattice spacing of the FB-LDH. In this work, a hydrophobic gel suspension of the FB-LDH was suggested as a transdermal controlled delivery formulation, where the suspensions were mixed with varying amounts of Eudragit(®) S-100 aqueous solution. The Frantz diffusion cell experiments using mouse full-skins showed that a lag time and steady-state flux of the drug could be controlled from 12.8h and 3.28μgcm(-2)h(-1) to less than 1h and 14.57μgcm(-2)h(-1), respectively, by increasing the mass fraction of Eudragit(®) S-100 solution in gel suspensions from 0% to 20% (w/w), respectively. Therefore, we conclude gel formulation of the FB-LDH have a potential for transdermal controlled drug delivery.

Lipid nanoparticles as novel delivery systems for cosmetics and dermal pharmaceuticals

INTRODUCTION

Lipid nanoparticles are innovative carrier systems developed as an alternative to traditional vehicles such as emulsions, liposomes and polymeric nanoparticles. Solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN) and the newest nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC) show important advantages for dermal application of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals.

AREA COVERED

This article focuses on the main features of lipid nanoparticles, in terms of their preparation and recent advancements. A detailed review of the literature is presented, introducing the importance of these systems in the topical delivery of drugs and active substances.

EXPERT OPINION

Lipid nanoparticles are able to enhance drug penetration into the skin, allowing increased targeting to the epidermis and consequently increasing treatment efficiency and reducing the systemic absorption of drugs and cosmetic actives. The complete biodegradation of lipid nanoparticles and their biocompatible chemical nature have secured them the title of 'nanosafe carriers.' SLN and NLC represent a new technological era, which has been taken over by the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry, which will open new channels for effective topical delivery of substances.