Zhong J, Zhao N, Song Q, Du Z, Shu P. Topical retinoids: Novel derivatives, nano lipid-based carriers, and combinations to improve chemical instability and skin irritation.
J Cosmet Dermatol 2024. [PMID:
38952060 DOI:
10.1111/jocd.16415]
[Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 12/21/2023] [Revised: 04/17/2024] [Accepted: 05/24/2024] [Indexed: 07/03/2024]
Abstract
BACKGROUND
Retinoids, defined as synthetic or natural derivatives of vitamin A, have been extensively studied as anti-aging molecules that are widely applied in cosmetics. However, due to their physicochemical property, retinoids are highly unstable and extremely sensitive to light, oxygen, and temperature. Moreover, topical application of retinoids often leads to cutaneous irritation. These instabilities and irritant properties of retinoids limit their application in cosmetic and pharmaceutical products.
AIM
Our study aimed to provide a systematic review to summarize the mechanisms underlying the instability and irritant properties of retinoids, as well as recent developments in addressing these challenges.
METHODS
A comprehensive PubMed search was conducted using the following keywords: retinoids, chemical instability, skin irritation, retinoid derivatives, nano lipid-based carriers, liposomes, penetration-enhancer vesicles, ethosomes, niosomes, nanoemulsions, solid lipid nanoparticles, vitamins, soothing and hydrating agents, antioxidants and metal chelator and retinol combinations. Relevant researches published between 1968 and 2023 and studies related to these reports were reviewed.
RESULTS
The development of new retinoid derivatives, the utilization of new delivery systems like nano lipid-based carriers and the combination with other compounds like vitamins, soothing agents, antioxidants and metal chelator have been explored to improve the stability, bioavailability, and toxicity of the retinoid family.
CONCLUSIONS
Through advancements in formulation techniques, structure modification of retinoid derivatives and development of novel nano lipid-based carriers, the chemical instability and skin irritation of retinoids has been mitigated, ensuring their efficacy and potency over extended periods.
Collapse