Development of sunscreen products containing passion fruit seed extract

Skin Pigmentation Types, Causes and Treatment-A Review

Human skin pigmentation and melanin synthesis are incredibly variable, and are impacted by genetics, UV exposure, and some drugs. Patients' physical appearance, psychological health, and social functioning are all impacted by a sizable number of skin conditions that cause pigmentary abnormalities. Hyperpigmentation, where pigment appears to overflow, and hypopigmentation, where pigment is reduced, are the two major classifications of skin pigmentation. Albinism, melasma, vitiligo, Addison's disease, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, which can be brought on by eczema, acne vulgaris, and drug interactions, are the most common skin pigmentation disorders in clinical practice. Anti-inflammatory medications, antioxidants, and medications that inhibit tyrosinase, which prevents the production of melanin, are all possible treatments for pigmentation problems. Skin pigmentation can be treated orally and topically with medications, herbal remedies, and cosmetic products, but a doctor should always be consulted before beginning any new medicine or treatment plan. This review article explores the numerous types of pigmentation problems, their causes, and treatments, as well as the 25 plants, 4 marine species, and 17 topical and oral medications now on the market that have been clinically tested to treat skin diseases.

Cosmeceutical Potential of Major Tropical and Subtropical Fruit By-Products for a Sustainable Revalorization

The increasing production of tropical fruits followed by their processing results in tons of waste, such as skins or seeds. However, these by-products have been reported to be rich in bioactive compounds (BACs) with excellent properties of interest in the cosmeceutical industry: antioxidant, anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and photoprotective properties. This review summarizes the tropical fruits most produced worldwide, their bioactive composition and the most important and studied therapeutic properties that their by-products can contribute to skin health, as well as the different approaches for obtaining these compounds using techniques by conventional (Soxhlet, liquid-liquid extraction or maceration) and non-conventional extractions (supercritical fluid extraction (SFE), ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE), microwave-assisted extraction (MAE), pressurized liquid extraction (PLE) and two-phase aqueous system), followed by their identification by HPLC-MS or GC-MS analysis. Moreover, this work encompasses several studies that may prove the effects of seeds and skins from tropical fruits against oxidative stress, hyperpigmentation, acne, aging or UV radiation. Therefore, the investigation of functional components present in tropical fruit by-products under a circular bioeconomy model could be of great interest for the cosmeceutical industry and a very promising option for obtaining new cosmeceutical formulations.

Effect of Purple Passion Fruit Extract Cream (Passiflora edulis Sims var. Edulis) 6% against Striae Distensae

ABSTRACT Background: Striae distensae is a skin disorder that causes cosmetic and psychological problems. Purple passion fruit (Passiflora edulis Sims var. Edulis) is widely cultivated, especially in North Sumatra. The seeds are abundant and unused industrial waste. Purple passion fruit seeds contain piceatannol, ascorbic acid, flavonoids, resveratrol, hydroalcohols and sterols which play a role in the repair of striae distensae through anti-inflammatory mechanisms, increase fibroblast proliferation and collagen production, increase crosslinking between collagen fibers and moisturizers. Objective: To determine the effect of 6% purple passion fruit (Passiflora edulis Sims var. Edulis) seed extract cream on striae distensae. Subjects and Methods: This study is a pre-experimental clinical trial with a pretest-posttest research design on 40 subjects with striae distensae. Diagnosis was confirmed by history and clinical evaluation using the Manchester scar scale before and after administration of 6% purple passion fruit extract cream at weeks 0, 2, 4, 6, 8. Adverse effects were recorded during the study and satisfaction levels were assessed at the end. Results: The majority of subjects' ages ranged from 29 to 39 years (72.5%). There was a significant reduction in Manchester scar scale in striae distensae, both after being given a 6% purple passion fruit extract cream or a combination of 1% tretinoin cream for 8 weeks, with a mean reduction of 25% (p = 0.000). Striae distensae after being given 6% purple passion fruit extract cream compared to 6% purple passion fruit extract cream combined with 1% tretinoin cream, there was no significant difference (p = 0.791). From a total of 40 subjects, none experienced side effects (0%). As many as 57.5% of the subjects showed a good level of satisfaction. Conclusion: The use of 6% purple passion fruit seed extract cream can improve the appearance of striae distensae without side effects and the level of satisfaction is good.    

Photoprotective and Inhibitory Activity of Tyrosinase in Extract and Fractions of Terminalia catappa L

BACKGROUND: Chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation causes various skin damages. One of the most significant risks to skin occurrence is cancer and photoaging. Recent strategies for photoprotection have included incorporating natural sunscreens and antityrosinase. AIM: This study aimed to determine the sun protection factor (SPF) and inhibitory activity of tyrosinase of the extract and fractions of leaves of Terminalia catappa Linn. METHOD: The dried leaves were macerated with 96% ethanol and fractionated using n-hexane, ethyl acetate, and water. The extract and fractions were screened for their phytochemical profile, and tyrosinase inhibitory activity was evaluated and expressed as IC50. The photoprotective activity of extract and fractions were measured by a UV spectrophotometric. RESULTS: Among the tested samples, the ethyl acetate fraction showed ultraprotection on erythema transmission rate (%TE), sunblock on pigmentation transmission (%TP), and minimum protection on SPF. Ethyl acetate fraction showed the highest activity to inhibit tyrosinase (IC50 was 50.54±2.37 μg/mL). The phytochemical analysis of ethyl acetate fraction revealed the presence of phenolic and flavonoid compounds. CONCLUSION: This study’s findings revealed a higher tyrosinase inhibitor and sun protection capacity of ethyl acetate fraction of leaves of T. catappa and suitable to develop as a cosmetic agent.

The Potential of Selected Agri-Food Loss and Waste to Contribute to a Circular Economy: Applications in the Food, Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical Industries

The food sector includes several large industries such as canned food, pasta, flour, frozen products, and beverages. Those industries transform agricultural raw materials into added-value products. The fruit and vegetable industry is the largest and fastest-growing segment of the world agricultural production market, which commercialize various products such as juices, jams, and dehydrated products, followed by the cereal industry products such as chocolate, beer, and vegetable oils are produced. Similarly, the root and tuber industry produces flours and starches essential for the daily diet due to their high carbohydrate content. However, the processing of these foods generates a large amount of waste several times improperly disposed of in landfills. Due to the increase in the world’s population, the indiscriminate use of natural resources generates waste and food supply limitations due to the scarcity of resources, increasing hunger worldwide. The circular economy offers various tools for raising awareness for the recovery of waste, one of the best alternatives to mitigate the excessive consumption of raw materials and reduce waste. The loss and waste of food as a raw material offers bioactive compounds, enzymes, and nutrients that add value to the food cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. This paper systematically reviewed literature with different food loss and waste by-products as animal feed, cosmetic, and pharmaceutical products that strongly contribute to the paradigm shift to a circular economy. Additionally, this review compiles studies related to the integral recovery of by-products from the processing of fruits, vegetables, tubers, cereals, and legumes from the food industry, with the potential in SARS-CoV-2 disease and bacterial diseases treatment.

Sustainability Calculator: A Tool to Assess Sustainability in Cosmetic Products

Assessing sustainability is extremely necessary and appears as an industrial need and requirement in order to facilitate decision making and to evaluate the impacts of existing strategies, products and technologies. Thus, the main goal of this research was to develop a sustainability calculator based on the opinion of experts that work in the different branches of the cosmetic industry, in order to cover the entire life cycle of a cosmetic product. A detailed survey in which all the steps of a cosmetic product life cycle were addressed, was designed and applied to cosmetic professionals. The data obtained with the survey was statistically analysed for the positive and negative impacts of each parameter on sustainability. The analysed data allowed the creation of a Microsoft Excel tool that mirrors the experts’ opinion. A proof of concept was also designed in order to prove the usefulness of the tool. The results show that there are no raw materials and/or packaging materials and practices, that can be considered 100% sustainable. However, with the appropriate strategies, it is possible to drastically decrease the impacts of any type of cosmetic product on sustainability. This is a promising tool that includes the three dimensions of sustainability in a simple, fast, objective and interactive way for the user. Its application will facilitate the work of the formulators and reduce the time of analysis and decision.

The Synergistic Behavior of Antioxidant Phenolic Compounds Obtained from Winemaking Waste's Valorization, Increased the Efficacy of a Sunscreen System

Grape pomace retains polyphenols in the peels and in the seeds after winemaking, which is indicative of the high valorization potential of this industrial waste. There is strong evidence that phenolics are robust antioxidants and confer photoprotection; thus, it is rational to apply these active compounds from winemaking waste to sunscreens, in order to increase UV protection. Despite the importance of this class of cosmetics to public health, more efficacious strategies are still needed to overcome the problems caused by the photoinstability of some UV filters. The hydroethanolic extract of Vitis vinifera L. grapes was obtained by percolation and then lyophilized. Six formulations were developed: Type I—cosmetic base and UV filters; Type II—cosmetic base and extract; and Type III—cosmetic base, extract and UV filters. Each formulation was prepared in the pHs 5 and 7. The antioxidant activities of the samples were measured by DPPH• and expressed in Trolox^® equivalents (TE), and their photostability and in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) were analyzed by diffuse reflectance spectrophotometry. The anti-radical efficiencies observed in the formulations with grape extract were: (II) 590.12 ± 0.01 μmol TE g⁻¹ at pH 5 and 424.51 ± 0.32 μmol TE g⁻¹ at pH 7; (III) 550.88 ± 0.00 μmol TE g⁻¹ at pH 5 and 429.66 ± 0.10 μmol TE g^−1, at pH 7, demonstrating that the UV filters, butylmethoxydibenzoyl methane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and ethylhexyl dimethyl 4-aminobenzoic acid had no influence on this effect. The photoprotective efficacy and the photostability of formulation III containing the extract and UV filters at pH 5 suggested that a synergism between the active molecules provided an 81% increase in SPF. Additionally, this was the only sample that maintained a broad spectrum of protection after irradiation. These results confirmed that the grape pomace extract has multifunctional potential for cosmetic use, mainly in sunscreens, granting them superior performance.

Preparation of organic acid lignin submicrometer particle as a natural broad-spectrum photo-protection agent

Valorization of lignin by-product is an urgent issue in the context of biorefinery. Lignin is a natural anti-UV active ingredient with great potential applications. In this study, a natural broad-spectrum photo-protection agent was prepared using lignin from organic acid extraction process. The submicrometer particles were prepared by dialysis lignin recovered from the pretreatments with organic acid extraction processes (formic acid, formic acid/hydrogen peroxide, and acetic acid/hydrogen peroxide/HCl) and they served as active ingredients in sunblock formulation. The structures of the lignin submicrometer particles were characterized by multiple spectroscopies. The submicrometer particles from organic acid lignin showed high capacities to enhance the sun protection factor values of lotion by 2.80-3.53 at the dosage of 5%, and the lotions containing lignin submicrometer particles had good UV-blocking properties. In addition, the UVA/UVB values (i.e., the ratio of absorbance at UVA to that at UVB) were in the range of 0.69-0.72 for the organic acid lignin submicrometer particles, indicating that they exhibited superior properties. The results indicated that the lignin submicrometer-based lotions with excellent antioxidant and UV protection capacities offered a natural source for sunblock cosmetics.