Hydrolyzed collagen interferes with in vitro photoprotective effectiveness of sunscreens

In Vitro Photoprotection and Functional Photostability of Sunscreen Lipsticks Containing Inorganic Active Compounds

Titanium dioxide (TiO2) is a safe inorganic ultraviolet (UV) filter with activity against UV damage. However, the recombination of the carrier’s charge and the tendency for TiO2 aggregation are the main disadvantages. Substrate supports, such as mesoporous silica, are biocompatible strategies to incorporate TiO2, altering its interaction with the skin. Since the lips are sensitive to the adversities of the environment, including UV radiation, the application of lipstick sunscreens is of great importance and expected to provide protection for this particular area against sunburn and photoaging, among other unfavorable responses unprotected UV exposure. We investigated the in vitro photoprotective efficacy and photostability of lipstick formulations containing TiO2 incorporated into mesoporous silica (SBA-15). The samples were the lipstick base; SBA-15; TiO2 (free form); and TiO2 incorporated into SBA-15. The photoprotective efficacy was characterized in vitro using a Labsphere UV2000S. Lipsticks were irradiated in a Suntest CPS+ chamber to evaluate functional photostability. Lipstick base and SBA-15 alone did not display photoprotective efficacy. The sample containing 10.0% TiO2 incorporated into the mesoporous silica generated greater photostability and sun protection factor (SPF) value compared to the one containing only 10.0% TiO2 (free state). Our findings suggest that TiO2 + SBA-15 can be considered a broad-spectrum ingredient for innovative sunscreens, particularly for the photoprotection of the lips.

Research Progress on Nutritional Value, Preservation and Processing of Fish-A Review

The global population has rapidly expanded in the last few decades and is continuing to increase at a rapid pace. To meet this growing food demand fish is considered a balanced food source due to their high nutritious value and low cost. Fish are rich in well-balanced nutrients, a good source of polyunsaturated fatty acids and impose various health benefits. Furthermore, the most commonly used preservation technologies including cooling, freezing, super-chilling and chemical preservatives are discussed, which could prolong the shelf life. Non-thermal technologies such as pulsed electric field (PEF), fluorescence spectroscopy, hyperspectral imaging technique (HSI) and high-pressure processing (HPP) are used over thermal techniques in marine food industries for processing of most economical fish products in such a way as to meet consumer demands with minimal quality damage. Many by-products are produced as a result of processing techniques, which have caused serious environmental pollution. Therefore, highly advanced technologies to utilize these by-products for high-value-added product preparation for various applications are required. This review provides updated information on the nutritional value of fish, focusing on their preservation technologies to inhibit spoilage, improve shelf life, retard microbial and oxidative degradation while extending the new applications of non-thermal technologies, as well as reconsidering the values of by-products to obtain bioactive compounds that can be used as functional ingredients in pharmaceutical, cosmetics and food processing industries.

Photoprotective effect of the fucose-containing polysaccharide FucoPol

This study reports the performance of FucoPol, a fucose-containing bacterial polysaccharide, as a photostable agent with high absorption yield at concentrations as low as 0.02 % (w/v). FucoPol is non-cytotoxic, efficiently protects from UVA and UVB at concentrations of 0.02-2 % (w/v) and 0.2-2 % (w/v), respectively, has over 94 % overall photostability up to 1.5 h of irradiation time. The lowest concentration studied (0.02 %, w/v) shows a sun protection factor (SPF) of 2.61 ± 0.08. The SPF-to-concentration unit ratio showed that FucoPol is about 60-fold more photoprotective than combinations of common organic and inorganic UV filters. In vitro radiation exposure experiments of adhered Vero epithelial and PM1 keratinocytic cells in the presence of 0.25 % (w/v) FucoPol further showed that cell viability was preserved, and delayed radiation-induced cell death was prevented. Overall, FucoPol outperforms common cosmetic biopolymers like xanthan and fucogel. These results are very promising for the development of bio-based sunscreen formulations.

Is the Botryococcus braunii Dry Biomass an Adjuvant for Anti-UVB Topical Formulations?

Several topical products have been developed to avoid the harmful effects from ultraviolet (UV) radiation, such as sunscreens. Research for actives from natural sources is increasing due to the fact that chemical filters could induce adverse events. The microalgae Botryococcus braunii has potential interest in cosmetic applications. Specialized literature reported that B. braunii aqueous extract induced a reduction in skin dehydration and collagen production and promoted antioxidant activity. This research aimed to produce B. braunii biomass and to investigate its contribution regarding photoprotection. Formulations containing B. braunii dry biomass, with or without UV filters into vehicles composed of an emulsifying polymer or a self-emulsifying base, were evaluated in vitro by means of photoprotective activity and photostability. B. braunii dry biomass did not provide adequate photoprotection efficacy; however, it was observed that the self-emulsifying base promoted better sun protection factor (SPF) in comparison with the emulsifying polymer.

The Synergistic Behavior of Antioxidant Phenolic Compounds Obtained from Winemaking Waste's Valorization, Increased the Efficacy of a Sunscreen System

Grape pomace retains polyphenols in the peels and in the seeds after winemaking, which is indicative of the high valorization potential of this industrial waste. There is strong evidence that phenolics are robust antioxidants and confer photoprotection; thus, it is rational to apply these active compounds from winemaking waste to sunscreens, in order to increase UV protection. Despite the importance of this class of cosmetics to public health, more efficacious strategies are still needed to overcome the problems caused by the photoinstability of some UV filters. The hydroethanolic extract of Vitis vinifera L. grapes was obtained by percolation and then lyophilized. Six formulations were developed: Type I—cosmetic base and UV filters; Type II—cosmetic base and extract; and Type III—cosmetic base, extract and UV filters. Each formulation was prepared in the pHs 5 and 7. The antioxidant activities of the samples were measured by DPPH• and expressed in Trolox^® equivalents (TE), and their photostability and in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) were analyzed by diffuse reflectance spectrophotometry. The anti-radical efficiencies observed in the formulations with grape extract were: (II) 590.12 ± 0.01 μmol TE g⁻¹ at pH 5 and 424.51 ± 0.32 μmol TE g⁻¹ at pH 7; (III) 550.88 ± 0.00 μmol TE g⁻¹ at pH 5 and 429.66 ± 0.10 μmol TE g^−1, at pH 7, demonstrating that the UV filters, butylmethoxydibenzoyl methane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and ethylhexyl dimethyl 4-aminobenzoic acid had no influence on this effect. The photoprotective efficacy and the photostability of formulation III containing the extract and UV filters at pH 5 suggested that a synergism between the active molecules provided an 81% increase in SPF. Additionally, this was the only sample that maintained a broad spectrum of protection after irradiation. These results confirmed that the grape pomace extract has multifunctional potential for cosmetic use, mainly in sunscreens, granting them superior performance.