The 24-hour skin hydration and barrier function effects of a hyaluronic 1%, glycerin 5%, and Centella asiatica stem cells extract moisturizing fluid: an intra-subject, randomized, assessor-blinded study

Benefits of topical natural ingredients in epidermal permeability barrier

Because of the crucial role of epidermal permeability barrier in regulation of cutaneous and extracutaneous functions, great efforts have been made to identify and develop the regimens that can improve epidermal permeability barrier function. Studies have demonstrated that oral administration of natural ingredients can improve epidermal permeability barrier in various skin conditions, including inflammatory dermatoses and UV-irradiation. Moreover, topical applications of some natural ingredients can also accelerate the repair of epidermal permeability barrier after acute barrier disruption and lower transepidermal water loss in the intact skin. Natural ingredient-induced improvements in epidermal permeability barrier function can be attributable to upregulation of keratinocyte differentiation, lipid production, antioxidant, hyaluronic acid production, expression of aquaporin 3 and sodium-hydrogen exchanger 1. In this review, we summarize the benefits of topical natural ingredients in epidermal permeability barrier in normal skin with or without acute barrier disruption and the underlying mechanisms.

Fabrication of polyvinyl pyrrolidone-K90/Eudragit RL100-based dissolving microneedle patches loaded with alpha-arbutin and resveratrol for skin depigmentation

Alpha-arbutin (AA) and resveratrol (Res) are widely used in skin-lightening products. However, current topical formulations have minimal skin-lightening effects due to the low absorption and poor solubility of these active compounds. This study investigated the efficacy and safety of using dissolving microneedle (DMN) patches to improve the delivery of AA and Res for skin depigmentation. The DMN patches (F0-F3) fabricated from polyvinyl pyrrolidone-K90 (PVP-K90)/Eudragit RL100 blends successfully penetrated excised porcine skin and showed sufficient mechanical strength to resist compression forces. Loading DMNs with 10% AA and 2% Res at a ratio of 5 : 1 (F3) resulted in a synergistic interaction between the drugs with desirable dissolving ability, drug loading, and stability. Furthermore, both in vitro and in vivo studies revealed that the use of F3 DMN patches successfully enhanced the intradermal delivery of AA and Res over a 24 h period, with the delivered amount being higher (∼2.6 times) than that provided by a cream formulation (P < 0.05). After removing the DMN patches, the mice's skin was spontaneously and completely resealed within 12 h. In clinical studies, F3 DMN patches slightly decreased the melanin index of the participants without causing skin irritation or erythema at any time during the 24 h period when the patches were applied (P < 0.05). Moreover, application of the patches for 24 h was not found to affect skin hydration, transepidermal water loss, or skin elasticity. Therefore, AA/Res-loaded DMN patches could offer a promising approach for the effective local delivery of cosmetic agents for skin depigmentation.

Assessment of a Formulation Containing a Castanea sativa Shells Extract on Skin Face Parameters: In Vivo Evaluation

In the last years, the demand for new eco-friendly ingredients has increased on the cosmetic market. Consumers are more aware of sustainable principles and, simultaneously, more conscious regarding the skin aging process. Chestnut (Castanea sativa) shells are a food by-product produced in high quantities in Europe. This waste has been described as a rich source of phenolic compounds with skin biological effects, such as antioxidant, antiradical, and anti-inflammatory activities. Despite the huge number of assays reporting the richness of chestnut shell extracts in bioactive compounds as well as the development of cosmetic formulations containing these extracts, no in vivo assays have assessed their clinical efficacy in human volunteers. The aim of this study was to evaluate the effect on skin face parameters of a formulation containing a chestnut shell extract in human volunteers (n = 22) who applied the product twice per day, for 56 days. For that, biophysical techniques, including Corneometer®, Cutometer®, and PrimosPremium, were employed, allowing the quantification of skin hydration and firmness, as well as of wrinkles’ depth and volume and wrinkles’ skin roughness. The results demonstrated that the formulation led to a slight decrease in roughness and wrinkles’ depth, although no significant differences with respect to a placebo were observed. In addition, a clear improvement of skin hydration was achieved (t0 = 54.00 Arbitrary Units (A.U.) and t56 = 58.62 A.U.). In contrast to the placebo, the active formulation increased skin firmness up to 31.76% in 50.00% of the volunteers, but without significant differences with respect to the placebo, probably due to the short period of treatment. A long-term use of the product is recommended to possibly observe significant differences in all parameters.

Long-term effects of two 24-hour moisturizing products on skin barrier structure and function: A biometric and molecular study

INTRODUCTION

Recently, there are a few moisturizers showing hydrating effects up to 24 hours after single application. Aquaporin 3 might be associated with the degree of skin hydration. We aimed to assess the effects of two brands of 24-hour moisturizers on the skin barrier function, as well as the AQP3 gene expression.

METHOD

Two moisturizers were applied once daily by 20 participants age 36.15 ± 9.55 years. Upper right and left forearms were randomly assigned to application of each product, whereas the right lower forearm served as control site for application of a cream base formulation. Biophysical assessments including trans epidermal water loss (TEWL), skin hydration, pH, surface lipids, and elasticity parameters were performed before intervention, 1, 4, and 24 hours after single application, following 2 weeks daily application and 1 week after termination of use. Also 5-mm punch biopsies were performed from application sites of product B and cream base formulation in for five participants after 2 weeks of application.

RESULTS

A single treatment with both products led to 24-hour increase in skin moisture in comparison with the control site (P-value <.01). Daily application of both products for 14 days also led to significant improvement in skin moisture (P-value <.01), TEWL (P-value <.01), and elasticity parameters. The increase in skin hydration was associated with upregulation of AQP3 gene expression in treated area for one of the formulations (P-value = .04).

CONCLUSION

The tested 24-hour moisturizers only need to be applied once daily to improve skin barrier function and hydration and up-regulate AQP3 mRNA expression.

Effects of Aloe vera Flower Extract and Its Active Constituent Isoorientin on Skin Moisturization via Regulating Involucrin Expression: In Vitro and Molecular Docking Studies

Skin moisturization is very crucial for maintaining the flexibility, viscoelasticity, and differentiation of the epidermis and its deprivation causes several diseases from dry skin to dermatitis. Aloe vera, a miracle plant having diverse medicinal properties including skin moisturization effects. This study investigated for the first time the molecular mechanism targeting skin moisturization effects of the Aloe vera flower and its major active constituent. By treating human epidermal keratinocytes (HaCaT cells) with Aloe vera flower water extract (AFWE), we found that AFWE upregulated epidermal involucrin by activating the expression of protein kinase C, p38, and ERK 1/2. Additionally, it modulated filaggrin, increased aquaporin expression, and hyaluronan synthesis via a balanced regulation of HAS1 and HYAL1 protein. Similarly, it was able to protect UVB-induced photodamage. Western blot analysis, ELISA, and qRT- PCR were performed to evaluate various epidermal differentiation markers and moisturization-related factors on human epidermal keratinocytes (HaCaT cells). TLC and HPLC were used to detect and analyze the chemical constituents. Among them, we found that an active component of Aloe vera flower, isoorientin (IO) has a high binding affinity to all of its targeted proteins such as involucrin, PKC, P38, etc. through molecular docking assay. This study indicated that the Aloe vera flower and its active constituent, IO can be used as a prominent ingredient to enhance skin barrier function and improve its related pathologies.

Mechanisms of skin moisturization with hyperharmonized hydroxyl modified fullerene substance

BACKGROUND

Hyper Harmonized Hydroxyl Modified Fullerene Substance (3HFWC⁺ ) establishes hydrogen bonds with the surrounding water molecules and organizes them in clusters with the liquid crystalline state, similar to the properties of water surrounding the biomolecules.

AIMS

To investigate the moisturizing properties of hyperharmonized fullerenol-3HFWC⁺ as an emulsion O/W ingredient on the skin.

PATIENTS/METHODS

We have analyzed the reflexion of the blue light from the skin, in vivo, with different levels of moisturization and compared the influence of three groups of cosmetic products (with various active ingredients, 3HFWC⁺ or water in same percentage in the "vehiculum") on skin moisturization by measuring paramagnetic/diamagnetic properties by Optomagnetic Imaging Spectroscopy.

RESULTS

Regenerating Cream and Body Lotion have shown statistically significant increase of diamagnetic features predominantly in all 3 types of creams, while the Hand Cream formulations have not shown statistically significant results after 4 weeks of treatment. Anti-aging cream with 3HFWC⁺ demonstrated statistically significant increase of paramagnetic properties of the skin (p⁺ /p^- from 0.90 to 0.62) and showed beneficial effects on information transfer and water content in stratum corneum.

CONCLUSION

Although it does not act as a classical moisturizing agent on the skin, 3HFWC⁺ can increase moisturization as a result of hydrogen bonds established among 3HFWC⁺ and water or biomolecules, liquid crystalline state of water in 3HFWC⁺ resembling the properties of water surrounding the biomolecules, and finally, liquid crystalline state of water in the products.

Controlling the Skin Barrier Quality through the Application of Polymeric Films Containing Microspheres with Encapsulated Plant Extract

Human skin has protective functions and it is a barrier that protects the interior of the body from harmful environmental factors and pathogen penetration. An important role of the skin is also to prevent the loss of water from the body and if the skin barrier is damaged, the amount of water emitted from the internal environment is increased. Therefore, it is crucial to recovery and maintenance of epidermal barrier integrity. The aim of the current work was to encapsulate Calendula officinalis flower extract in gelatin microspheres and then incorporation microspheres into thin polymeric films made from sodium alginate or mixture of sodium alginate and starch. Such materials may find applications in the cosmetic field for example in the preparation of masks for skin, according to the Calendula officinalis flower extract wide influence on skin condition. Thus, the release profile of this extract from the materials was tested under conditions corresponding to the skin (pH 5.4, 37 °C). The mechanical properties, surface free energy, and moisture content of obtained films were measured. To determine the barrier quality of the stratum corneum, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin color measurements were performed. The loaded microspheres were successfully incorporated into polymeric films without affecting its useful properties. Although the values of Young’s modulus and the moisture content were decreased after film modification by microspheres addition, the skin parameters were much better after application of films with microspheres. The results confirmed that obtained materials can be potentially used in cosmetics to improve the skin barrier quality.

Collagen Hydrolysates for Skin Protection: Oral Administration and Topical Formulation

Antioxidants are molecules that delay or inhibit the oxidation of other molecules. Its use significantly increased in recent years in the diet of people. Natural antioxidants are replacing the use of synthetic antioxidant ingredients due to their safety, nutritional, and therapeutic values. Hydrolyzed collagen (HC) is a popular ingredient considered to be an antioxidant. This low molecular weight protein has been widely utilized due to its excellent biocompatibility, easy biodegradability, and weak antigenicity. It is a safe cosmetic biomaterial with good moisturizing properties on the skin. The antioxidant properties of HC are conditioned to the size of the molecule: the lower the molecular weight of peptides, the greater the ability to donate an electron or hydrogen to stabilize radicals. The antioxidant capacity of HC is mostly due to the presence of hydrophobic amino acids in the peptide. The exact mechanism of peptides acting as antioxidants is not clearly known but some aromatic amino acids and histidine are reported to play an important role in the antioxidant activity. Oral ingestion of HC increases the levels of collagen-derived peptides in the blood torrent and improves the skin properties such as elasticity, skin moisture, and transepidermal water loss. Additionally, daily intakes of HC protect the skin against UV melasma, enhances the fibroblast production and extracellular matrix of the skin. HC has been identified as a safe cosmetic ingredient for topical formulations with good moisturizing properties at the stratum corneum layer of the skin. It reduces the effects of skin aging (dryness, laxity, and wrinkles). The use of HC as a principal ingredient in safe formulations for skin protection was reviewed and compared when it is used by topical and/or oral administration.

Skin Hydration Effects of Scale-Up Fermented Cyclopia intermedia against Ultraviolet B-Induced Damage in Keratinocyte Cells and Hairless Mice

Photoaging occurs by chronic skin exposure to the sun and ultraviolet irradiation and leads to skin aging accompanied by a lack of skin hydration. We previously demonstrated the photoprotective effect of fermented Cyclopia intermedia (honeybush) extract on the skin. In this study, we evaluated the skin hydration effects of scaled-up fermented honeybush extract (HU-018) against ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation in HaCaT immortalized human keratinocytes and hairless mice. Pretreating HaCaT cells with HU-018 attenuated the decreased hyaluronic acid (HA) levels and mRNA expression of genes encoding involucrin, filaggrin, and loricrin by UVB irradiation. HU-018 treatment also ameliorated the decreased stratum corneum (SC) hydration and the increased levels of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and erythema index (EI) in hairless mice after UVB exposure. Microarray analysis revealed changes in gene expression patterns of hyaluronan synthase 2 (Has2), transforming growth factor-beta 3 (TGF-β3), and elastin induced by HU-018 in UVB-irradiated mice. Consistently, the mRNA expression of Has2, TGF-β3, and elastin was increased by HU-018 treatment. Moreover, HU-018 restored the increased epidermal thickness and collagen disorganization in skin tissue of UVB-irradiated mice. HU-018 treatment also decreased matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) expression and increased procollagen type-1, elastin, and TGF-β1 expression. In conclusion, we found that HU-018 promoted skin hydration processes in UVB-irradiated keratinocytes and hairless mice by modulating involucrin, filaggrin, loricrin, and HA expression and ameliorating visible signs of photoaging. Thus, HU-018 may be a good skin hydration agent for skin care.

Skin Retention of Sorbates from an After Sun Formulation for a Broad Photoprotection

Overexposure to sunlight is widely accepted as the underlying cause of cutaneous melanoma. UV radiation induces the formation of DNA photoproducts that, if unrepaired, can induce carcinogenic mutations. Recent data indicate that sorbates can be useful to widen the protection against UV radiation by acting as a triplet-state quencher in the melanocyte. The aim of the present work was to prepare an after sun formulation containing ethylsorbate or sorbic acid in order to take advantage of the triplet-state quenching activity of these molecules and protect the skin from UV-induced damages. Ethylsorbate and sorbic acid were characterized in terms of solubility and partition coefficient, and their transdermal permeation and skin accumulation were studied in vitro from simple solutions and in the presence of cyclodextrins (alpha and hydroxypropylbeta) as a complexing agent. The goal was to reduce as much as possible sorbates permeation while sustaining their skin levels. The obtained results indicated that the addition of alphacyclodextrins determined a 6-folds (ethylsorbate ) or 4-folds (sorbic acid) reduction of the transdermal permeation. Sorbic acid and alphacyclodextrin (1:1 molar ratio) were then formulated in an after sun vehicle using 1.5% hyaluronic acid (sodium salt) as a thickener and hydrating agent. The addition of hyaluronic acid gave rise to a formulation with good cosmetic properties and good sorbate (0.2–0.3 µmol/cm2) skin levels (stratum corneum + viable epidermis) and thus a potential protection against post-exposure UV damage.

Pharmacological Properties, Molecular Mechanisms, and Pharmaceutical Development of Asiatic Acid: A Pentacyclic Triterpenoid of Therapeutic Promise

Asiatic acid (AA) is a naturally occurring aglycone of ursane type pentacyclic triterpenoids. It is abundantly present in many edible and medicinal plants including Centella asiatica that is a reputed herb in many traditional medicine formulations for wound healing and neuropsychiatric diseases. AA possesses numerous pharmacological activities such as antioxidant and anti-inflammatory and regulates apoptosis that attributes its therapeutic effects in numerous diseases. AA showed potent antihypertensive, nootropic, neuroprotective, cardioprotective, antimicrobial, and antitumor activities in preclinical studies. In various in vitro and in vivo studies, AA found to affect many enzymes, receptors, growth factors, transcription factors, apoptotic proteins, and cell signaling cascades. This review aims to represent the available reports on therapeutic potential and the underlying pharmacological and molecular mechanisms of AA. The review also also discusses the challenges and prospects on the pharmaceutical development of AA such as pharmacokinetics, physicochemical properties, analysis and structural modifications, and drug delivery. AA showed favorable pharmacokinetics and found bioavailable following oral or interaperitoneal administration. The studies demonstrate the polypharmacological properties, therapeutic potential and molecular mechanisms of AA in numerous diseases. Taken together the evidences from available studies, AA appears one of the important multitargeted polypharmacological agents of natural origin for further pharmaceutical development and clinical application. Provided the favorable pharmacokinetics, safety, and efficacy, AA can be a promising agent or adjuvant along with currently used modern medicines with a pharmacological basis of its use in therapeutics.

Proteomic Contributions to Medicinal Plant Research: From Plant Metabolism to Pharmacological Action

Herbal medicine is a clinical practice of utilizing medicinal plant derivatives for therapeutic purposes. It has an enduring history worldwide and plays a significant role in the fight against various diseases. Herbal drug combinations often exhibit synergistic therapeutic action compared with single-constituent dosage, and can also enhance the cytotoxicity induced by chemotherapeutic drugs. To explore the mechanism underlying the pharmacological action of herbs, proteomic approaches have been applied to the physiology of medicinal plants and its effects on animals. This review article focuses on the existing proteomics-based medicinal plant research and discusses the following topics: (i) plant metabolic pathways that synthesize an array of bioactive compounds; (ii) pharmacological action of plants tested using in vivo and in vitro studies; and (iii) the application of proteomic approaches to indigenous plants with scarce sequence information. The accumulation of proteomic information in a biological or medicinal context may help in formulating the effective use of medicinal plants.