Low energy nanoemulsions as carriers for essential oils in topical formulations for antioxidant skin protection

Red Raspberry Seed Oil Low Energy Nanoemulsions: Influence of Surfactants, Antioxidants, and Temperature on Oxidative Stability

The aim of this study was to assess and improve the oxidative stability of red raspberry seed oil−RO, a potential topical ingredient derived from food industry by-products, on its own and when incorporated in low energy nanoemulsion (NE). The RO’s oxidative stability was assessed at 5, 25, and 40 °C during one month of storage and expressed in: peroxide value, p-anisidine, and thiobarbituric reactive substances—TBARS value, while for NEs, lipid hydroperoxides and TBARS values were monitored. Both synthetic (butylated hydroxytoluene—BHT and ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid—EDTA), and natural (oregano essential oil—ORE and oak fruit extract—OAK) antioxidants were used. Pure RO and RO with BHT or ORE were stable at 5 °C and 25 °C, but at 40 °C BHT showed only moderate protection, while ORE was prooxidant. NEs prepared with new biodegradable polyglycerol esters-based surfactants, with droplet sizes of < 50 nm and narrow size distribution, showed improved physicochemical stability at room temperature, and especially at 40 °C, compared to NEs with polysorbate 80, which required the addition of antioxidants to preserve their stability. Natural antioxidants ORE and OAK were compatible with all NEs; therefore, their use is proposed as an effective alternative to synthetic antioxidants.