Effectiveness of antioxidants (vitamin C and E) with and without sunscreens as topical photoprotectants

Unveiling the mechanisms for the development of rosehip-based dermatological products: an updated review

Rosa spp., commonly known as rosehips, are wild plants that have traditionally been employed as herbal remedies for the treatment of a wide range of disorders. Rosehip is a storehouse of vitamins, including A, B complex, C, and E. Among phytonutrients, vitamin C is found in the highest amount. As rosehips contain significant levels of vitamin C, they are perfect candidates for the development of skincare formulations that can be effectively used in the treatment of different skin disorders (i.e., scarring, anti-aging, hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, melasma, and atopic dermatitis). This research focuses on the vitamin C content of several Rosa sp. by their botanical and geographic origins, which according to research studies are in the following order: R. rugosa > R. montana > R. canina > R. dumalis, with lower levels in R. villosa and R. arvensis, respectively. Among rosehip species, R. canina is the most extensively studied species which also displays significant amounts of bioactive compounds, but also antioxidant, and antimicrobial activities (e.g., against Propionibacterium acnes, Staphylococcus aureus, S, epidermis, and S. haemolyticus). The investigation also highlights the use of rosehip extracts and oils to minimise the harmful effects of acne, which primarily affects teenagers in terms of their physical appearance (e.g., scarring, hyperpigmentation, imperfections), as well as their moral character (e.g., low self-confidence, bullying). Additionally, for higher vitamin C content from various rosehip species, the traditional (i.e., infusion, maceration, Soxhlet extraction) and contemporary extraction methods (i.e., supercritical fluid extraction, microwave-assisted, ultrasonic-assisted, and enzyme-assisted extractions) are highlighted, finally choosing the best extraction method for increased bioactive compounds, with emphasis on vitamin C content. Consequently, the current research focuses on assessing the potential of rosehip extracts as medicinal agents against various skin conditions, and the use of rosehip concentrations in skincare formulations (such as toner, serum, lotion, and sunscreen). Up-to-date studies have revealed that rosehip extracts are perfect candidates as topical application products in the form of nanoemulsions. Extensive in vivo studies have revealed that rosehip extracts also exhibit specific activities against multiple skin disorders (i.e., wound healing, collagen synthesis, atopic dermatitis, melasma, and anti-aging effects). Overall, with multiple dermatological actions and efficacies, rosehip extracts and oils are promising agents that require a thorough investigation of their functioning processes to enable their safe use in the skincare industry.

Exploring the Protective Efficacy of Topical Products for Actinic Keratosis Against Ultraviolet-Induced DNA and Protein Damage: An Experimental, Double-Blind Irradiation Study

Introduction Numerous studies have delved into the clinical efficacy of different topical treatments for actinic keratosis (AK). However, our understanding remains limited regarding their capacity to prevent DNA and protein damage caused by ultraviolet radiation (UVR). Objectives The aim of this study was to analyze and compare the preventive capabilities of various AK-targeted products in countering DNA and protein alterations in human biopsies following exposure to experimental UVR. Methods Twelve healthy Caucasian volunteers (six men and six women) aged 18 years and above, with Fitzpatrick skin types II-III, participated in an experimental irradiation study. Six topical products, containing various ingredients (DNA repair enzymes, antioxidants, keratolytic agents, cyclooxygenase inhibitors, and/or sunscreens) were tested. The experimental sites were exposed to UVR at six times the minimal erythema dose for eight consecutive days. Each test product was applied 30 to 45 minutes before irradiation at a standard thickness of 2 mg/cm2. A control site was treated with the vehicle alone, serving as a negative control. The study focused on cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs) and protein carbonylation (PC) as molecular markers of UVR-induced DNA and protein damage, respectively. Results The efficacy of different AK-targeted topical products showed substantial variation when applied to normal skin before experimental exposure to UVR. While sunscreens, predictably, played a crucial role, additional ingredients (i.e., DNA repair enzymes and antioxidants) also acted as vital protective agents for both the cellular genome and proteome, shielding them against UVR-induced damage. Conclusion In topical products specifically designed for AK, the strategic integration of DNA repair enzymes and antioxidants, in addition to sunscreens, establishes a critical defense mechanism against the detrimental effects of UVR on cellular DNA and proteins.

Bioactive Compounds for Skin Health: A Review

Human skin is continually changing. The condition of the skin largely depends on the individual’s overall state of health. A balanced diet plays an important role in the proper functioning of the human body, including the skin. The present study draws attention to bioactive substances, i.e., vitamins, minerals, fatty acids, polyphenols, and carotenoids, with a particular focus on their effects on the condition of the skin. The aim of the study was to review the literature on the effects of bioactive substances on skin parameters such as elasticity, firmness, wrinkles, senile dryness, hydration and color, and to define their role in the process of skin ageing.

Ameliorative Effects of Peptides from the Oyster (Crassostrea hongkongensis) Protein Hydrolysates against UVB-Induced Skin Photodamage in Mice

Chronic exposure to ultraviolet B (UVB) irradiation is a major cause for skin photoaging. UVB induces damage to skin mainly by oxidative stress, inflammation, and collagen degradation. This paper investigated the photo-protective effects of peptides from oyster (Crassostrea hongkongensis) protein hydrolysates (OPs) by topical application on the skin of UVB-irradiated mice. Results from mass spectrometry showed that OPs consisted of peptides with a molecular weight range of 302.17–2936.43 Da. In vivo study demonstrated that topical application of OPs on the skin significantly alleviated moisture loss, epidermal hyperplasia, as well as degradation of collagen and elastin fibers caused by chronic UVB irradiation. In this study, OPs treatment promoted antioxidant enzymes (SOD and GPH-Px) activities, while decreased malondialdehyde (MDA) level in the skin. In addition, OPs treatment significantly decreased inflammatory cytokines (IL-1β, IL-6, TNF-α) content, and inhibited inflammation related (iNOS, COX-2) protein expression in the skin. Via inhibiting metalloproteinase 1(MMP1) expression, OPs treatment markedly decreased the degradation of collagen and elastin fibers as well as recovered the altered arrangement of extracellular matrix network in the dermis of skin. Our study demonstrated for the first time that OPs protected against UVB induced skin photodamage by virtue of its antioxidative and anti-inflammatory properties, as well as regulating the abnormal expression of MMP-1. The possible molecular mechanism underlying OPs anti-photoaging is possibly related to downregulating of the MAPK/NF-κB signaling pathway, while promoting TGF-β production in the skin.

Fn14 deficiency protects lupus-prone mice from histological lupus erythematosus-like skin inflammation induced by ultraviolet light

The cytokine TNF-like weak inducer of apoptosis (TWEAK) and its receptor Fn14 are involved in cell survival and cytokine production. The TWEAK/Fn14 pathway plays a role in the pathogenesis of spontaneous cutaneous lesions in the MRL/lpr lupus strain; however, the role of TWEAK/Fn14 in disease induced by ultraviolet B (UVB) irradiation has not been explored. MRL/lpr Fn14 knockout (KO) was compared to MRL/lpr Fn14 wild-type (WT) mice following exposure to UVB. We found that irradiated MRL/lpr KO mice had significantly attenuated cutaneous disease when compared to their WT counterparts. There were also fewer infiltrating immune cells (CD3⁺ , IBA-1⁺ and NGAL⁺ ) in the UVB-exposed skin of MRL/lpr Fn14KO mice, as compared to Fn14WT. Furthermore, we identified several macrophage-derived proinflammatory chemokines with elevated expression in MRL/lpr mice after UV exposure. Depletion of macrophages, using a CSF-1R inhibitor, was found to be protective against the development of skin lesions after UVB exposure. In combination with the phenotype of the MRL/lpr Fn14KO mice, these findings indicate a critical role for Fn14 and recruited macrophages in UVB-triggered cutaneous lupus. Our data strongly suggest that TWEAK/Fn14 signalling is important in the pathogenesis of UVB-induced cutaneous disease manifestations in the MRL/lpr model of lupus and further support this pathway as a possible target for therapeutic intervention.

The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health

The primary function of the skin is to act as a barrier against insults from the environment, and its unique structure reflects this. The skin is composed of two layers: the epidermal outer layer is highly cellular and provides the barrier function, and the inner dermal layer ensures strength and elasticity and gives nutritional support to the epidermis. Normal skin contains high concentrations of vitamin C, which supports important and well-known functions, stimulating collagen synthesis and assisting in antioxidant protection against UV-induced photodamage. This knowledge is often used as a rationale for the addition of vitamin C to topical applications, but the efficacy of such treatment, as opposed to optimising dietary vitamin C intake, is poorly understood. This review discusses the potential roles for vitamin C in skin health and summarises the in vitro and in vivo research to date. We compare the efficacy of nutritional intake of vitamin C versus topical application, identify the areas where lack of evidence limits our understanding of the potential benefits of vitamin C on skin health, and suggest which skin properties are most likely to benefit from improved nutritional vitamin C intake.

Lipid peroxidation: Its effects on the formulation and use of pharmaceutical emulsions

Pharmaceutical delivery systems are developed to improve the physicochemical properties of therapeutic compounds. Emulsions are one of these drug delivering systems formulated using water, oils and lipids as main ingredients. Extensive data are usually generated on the physical and chemical characteristics of these oil-in-water and lipid emulsions. However, the oxidative tendency of emulsions is often overlooked. Oxidation impacts the overall quality and safety of these pharmaceutical emulsions. Additionally, introducing oxidatively unstable emulsions into biological systems further promotes oxidation in situ. Products of these reactions then continue to pose serious harm to cells and fuel other physiological oxidation reactions. Consequently, the increase of oxidation products leads to oxidative damage to biological systems. Thus, emulsions with lower lipid peroxidation are more stable and will reduce the negative effects of oxidation in situ. Preventive measures during the formulation of emulsions are important. Many naturally occurring and cost effective substances possess low oxidation tendencies and confer oxidative protection when used in emulsions. Additionally, certain preparatory methods should be employed to reduce or better control lipid peroxidation. Finally, emulsions must be evaluated for their oxidation susceptibility using the various techniques available. Careful attention to the preparation of emulsions and assessment of their oxidative stability will help produce safer emulsions without compromising efficacy.

Fractional CO₂ Laser Pretreatment Facilitates Transdermal Delivery of Two Vitamin C Derivatives

BACKGROUND

Topical vitamin C derivatives have been used to treat melasma and used as a skin whitener. The aim of this study was to compare skin histology and permeation of l-ascorbic acid 2-phosphate sesquimagnesium salt (MAP-1) and magnesium l-ascorbic acid-2-phosphate (MAP-2) after fractional CO₂ laser pretreatment.

METHODS

The effect of fractional laser treatment on porcine skin was examined by scanning electron microscopy and confocal laser scanning electron microscopy. The effect of fractional CO₂ laser treatment of different fluencies and pass numbers on transdermal flux of the two vitamin C derivatives through porcine skin was examined in vitro using a Franz diffusion chamber.

RESULTS

Fluxes of MAP-1 and MAP-2 across fractional CO₂ laser-treated (5 W) skin were eight- to 13-fold, and 20- to 22-fold higher, respectively, than the fluxes of these compounds across intact skin. Fluxes of MAP-1 and MAP-2 across fractional CO₂ laser-treated (9 W) skin were 14- to 19-fold, and 30- to 42-fold higher, respectively, than their fluxes across intact skin.

CONCLUSION

Fractional CO₂ laser treatment is an effective way of delivering vitamin C derivatives into the skin.

Benefits of combinations of vitamin A, C and E derivatives in the stability of cosmetic formulations

Chemically stable ester derivatives of vitamins A, C and E have become a focus of interest for their role in the satisfactory results in skin aging treatments. Accordingly, the aim of this study was to evaluate the physical and chemical stability of a cosmetic formulation containing 1% retinyl palmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and tocopheryl acetate, alone or in combination. In the studies of physical stability, a Brookfield rheometer was used to determine rheological behavior of formulations containing the vitamins. Chemical stability was determined by HPLC on a Shimadzu system with UV detection. Results showed that formulations had pseudoplastic behavior and that vitamins did not alter their apparent viscosity and thixotropy. In the chemical stability studies, first-order reaction equations were used for determinations of the shelf-life of vitamins derivatives considering a remaining concentration of 85%. Combined vitamins in a single formulation had a slightly lower degradation rate as compared to different preparations containing only one of the vitamins. Considering that many cosmetic formulations contain vitamin combinations it is suggested that the present study may contribute to the development of more stable formulations containing liposoluble vitamins.

[Skin aging]

Like the entire human organism, the skin is subject to an intrinsic unpreventable aging process. But exogenous factors also influence skin aging. Ultraviolet radiation in particular results in premature skin aging, also referred to as extrinsic skin aging or photo aging, causing in large part aging-associated changes in sun-exposed areas. Intrinsic and extrinsic aging share several molecular similarities despite morphological and pathophysiological differences. The formation of reactive oxygen species and the induction of metalloproteinases reflect central aspects of skin aging. Accumulation of fragmented collagen fibrils prevents neocollagenesis and accounts for further degradation of extracellular matrix by means of positive feedback regulation. The importance of extrinsic factors in skin aging and the detection of its mechanisms has given rise to development of various therapeutic and preventive strategies.

[Topical treatment of skin aging]

Safe levels of UV exposure and UV protection are the most important measures to protect the skin from epithelial skin cancer and skin aging. This report reviews noninvasive topical methods to counteract skin wrinkling and irregular pigmentation of aging skin. Furthermore, information is provided about the effects of UV protection by using sunscreens and topical antioxidants. The effect of vitamin A acid derivatives, chemical peeling, and bleaching agents is considered. Newly developed substances are presented.