Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Glyceryl Stearate and Glyceryl Stearate/SE

Amended Safety Assessment of Triglycerides as Used in Cosmetics

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of 51 triglycerides; 25 of these ingredients were previously reviewed by the Panel, and 26 are reviewed herein for the first time. The majority of the ingredients named in this assessment have several functions, with most reported to function as skin conditioning agents (occlusive or emollient) and/or viscosity increasing agents in cosmetics; some are also reported to function as a fragrance or solvent. The Panel reviewed relevant new data, including frequency and concentration of use, and considered the data from previous reports. The Panel concluded the 51 triglycerides reviewed in this report are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment.

Shared Makeup Cosmetics as a Route of Demodex folliculorum Infections

Purpose

The aim of the study was to examine Demodex survival in makeup cosmetics, i.e., powder cream, mascara, and lipstick, and to determine whether cosmetics shared with others can be a source of D. folliculorum infection.

Methods

Live D. folliculorum adults were placed in cosmetic samples and their motility was observed under a microscope. The mites were fully or partially immersed in the powder cream and lipstick, and only partially immersed in the mascara. Partial immersion means that only the opisthosoma was covered by the cosmetic, whereas the gnathosoma and podosoma had no contact with the cosmetic. Cessation of motility was regarded as a sign of death.

Results

In the control (mites placed on a microscope slide with no cosmetics), the survival time was 41.2 h. D. folliculorum that were immersed fully or partially in the lipstick substrate were viable for 38.5 h and 148 h, respectively. The survival time of the mites at full and partial immersion in the powder cream was 0.78 h and 2.16 h, respectively. The average survival time in the mascara was 21 h.

Conclusions

Makeup cosmetics used by different individuals at short intervals (from several hours to several days) can be a source of transmission of Demodex sp. mites.

Supplementary Information

The online version contains supplementary material available at 10.1007/s11686-020-00332-w.

The science behind wet wipes for infant skin: Ingredient review, safety, and efficacy

In the diapered area, the continuous exposure to excess moisture and irritants from urine and feces weakens the stratum corneum, making the skin more susceptible to irritation. The use of wet wipes for infants (baby wipes) is a common practice to clean skin after urine or a bowel movement, and this practice even extends to cleaning the hands and face, resulting in repeated daily use. Therefore, ensuring that baby wipes contain ingredients that are safe and mild on skin is important to help minimize skin irritation and discomfort. While disposable baby wipes have been shown to be effective and gentle at cleaning infant skin, even the skin of premature infants, there is growing public concern regarding their safety and tolerability. Not all products are made the same, as differences exist in manufacturing processes, ingredients, materials, safety, and quality testing. Therefore, it is important that healthcare professionals have accessible evidenced-based information on the safety and tolerability of common ingredients found in baby wipes to optimally educate their patients and families. Herein, we provide a review on best practices for ingredient selection, safety, and efficacy of baby wipes.

Final Report of the Amended Safety Assessment of Glyceryl Lau rate, Glyceryl Lau rate SE, Glyceryl Laurate/Oleate, Glyceryl Adipate, Glyceryl Alginate, Glyceryl Arachidate, Glyceryl Arachidonate, Glyceryl Behenate, Glyceryl Caprate, Glyceryl Caprylate, Glyceryl Caprylate/Caprate, Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate, Glyceryl Cocoate, Glyceryl Collagenate, Glyceryl Erucate, Glyceryl Hydrogenated Rosinate, Glyceryl Hydrogenated Soyate, Glyceryl Hydroxystearate, Glyceryl Isopalmitate, Glyceryl Isostearate, Glyceryl Isostearate/Myristate, Glyceryl Isostearates, Glyceryl Lanolate, Glyceryl Linoleate, Glyceryl Linolenate, Glyceryl Montanate, Glyceryl Myristate, Glyceryl Isotridecanoate/Stearate/Adipate, Glyceryl Oleate SE, Glyceryl Oleate/Elaidate, Glyceryl Palmitate, Glyceryl Palmitate/Stearate, Glyceryl Palmitoleate, Glyceryl Pentadecanoate, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Glyceryl Rosinate, Glyceryl Sesquioleate, Glyceryl/Sorbitol Oleate/Hydroxystearate, Glyceryl Stearate/Acetate, Glyceryl Stearate/Maleate, Glyceryl Tallowate, Glyceryl Thiopropionate, and Glyceryl Undecylenate1

The safety of 43 glyceryl monoesters listed as cosmetic ingredients was reviewed in a safety assessment completed in 2000. Additional safety test data pertaining to Glyceryl Rosinate and Glyceryl Hydrogenated Rosinate were received and served as the basis for this amended report. Glyceryl monoesters are used mostly as skin-conditioning agents—emollients and/or surfactant—emulsifying agents in cosmetics. The following 20 glyceryl monoesters are currently reported to be used in cosmetics: Glyceryl Laurate, Glyceryl Alginate, Glyceryl Arachidonate, Glyceryl Behenate, Glyceryl Caprylate, Glyceryl Caprylate/Caprate, Glyceryl Cocoate, Glyceryl Erucate, Glyceryl Hydroxystearate, Glyceryl Isostearate, Glyceryl Lanolate, Glyceryl Linoleate, Glyceryl Linolenate, Glyceryl Myristate, Glyceryl Oleate/Elaidate, Glyceryl Palmitate, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Glyceryl Rosinate, Glyceryl Stearate/Acetate, and Glyceryl Undecylenate. Concentration of use data received from the cosmetics industry in 1999 indicate that Glyceryl Monoesters are used at concentrations up to 12 % in cosmetic products. Glyceryl Monoesters are not pure monoesters, but are mostly mixtures with mono-, di-, and tri-esters. The purity of commercial and conventional Monoglyceride (Glyceryl Monoester) is a minimum of 90%. Glyceryl Monoesters (monoglycerides) are metabolized to free fatty acids and glycerol, both of which are available for the resynthesis of triglycerides. Glyceryl Laurate enhanced the penetration of drugs through cadaverous skin and hairless rat skin in vitro and has been described as having a wide spectrum of antimicrobial activity. A low-grade irritant response was observed following inhalation of an aerosol containing 10% Glyceryl Laurate by test animals. Glyceryl monoesters have little acute or short-term toxicity in animals, and no toxicity was noted following chronic administration of a mixture consisting mostly of glyceryl di- and mono- esters. Glyceryl Laurate did have strong hemolytic activity in an in vitro assay using sheep erythrocytes. Glyceryl Laurate, Glyceryl Isostearate, or Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate were not classified as ocular irritants in rabbits. Undiluted glyceryl monoesters may produce minor skin irritation, especially in abraded skin, but in general these ingredients are not irritating at concentrations used in cosmetics. Glyceryl monoesters are not sensitizers, except that Glyceryl Rosinate and Hydrogenated Glyceryl Rosinate may contain residual rosin, which can cause allergic reactions. These ingredients are not photosensitizers. Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate was not mutagenic in the Ames test system. Glyceryl Laurate exhibited antitumor activity and Glyceryl Stearate was negative in a tumor promotion assay. At concentrations higher than used in cosmetics, Glyceryl Laurate did cause moderate erythema in human repeat-insult patch test (RIPT) studies, but the other glyceryl monoesters tested failed to produce any significant positive reactions. Glyceryl Rosinate was irritating to animal skin at 50%, but did not produce sensitization in clinical tests at concentrations up to 10% and covered with semioccluded patches. There is reported use of Glyceryl Rosinate at 12% in mascara, which is somewhat higher than the concentration in the clinical testing. It was reasoned that the available data do support the safety of this use because there would be minimal contact with the skin and no occlusion. The safety of Arachidonic Acid was not documented and substantiated for cosmetic product use in an earlier safety assessment and those same safety questions apply to Glyceryl Arachidonate. Based on these data, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel found that these glyceryl monoesters are safe as cosmetic ingredients in the present practices of use and concentration: except that the available data are insufficient to support the safety of Glyceryl Arachidonate. Additional data needed to support the safety of Glyceryl Arachidonate include (1) dermal absorption data; and, based on the results of the absorption studies, there may be a need for (2) immunomodula-tory data; (3) carcinogenicity and photocarcinogenicity data; and (4) human irritation, sensitization, and photosensitization data.

Amended final report on the safety assessment of glyceryl dilaurate, glyceryl diarachidate, glyceryl dibehenate, glyceryl dierucate, glyceryl dihydroxystearate, glyceryl diisopalmitate, glyceryl diisostearate, glyceryl dilinoleate, glyceryl dimyristate, glyceryl dioleate, glyceryl diricinoleate, glyceryl dipalmitate, glyceryl dipalmitoleate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl palmitate lactate, glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl stearate lactate, and glyceryl stearate succinate

Glyceryl Dilaurate, Glyceryl Diarachidate, Glyceryl Dibehenate, Glyceryl Dierucate, Glyceryl Dihydroxystearate, Glyceryl Diisopalmitate, Glyceryl Diisostearate, Glyceryl Dilinoleate, Glyceryl Dimyristate, Glyceryl Dioleate, Glyceryl Diricinoleate, Glyceryl Dipalmitate, Glyceryl Dipalmitoleate, Glyceryl Distearate, Glyceryl Palmitate Lactate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Glyceryl Stearate Lactate, and Glyceryl Stearate Succinate are diacylglycerols (also known as diglycerides or glyceryl diesters) that function as skin conditioning agents - emollients in cosmetics. Only Glyceryl Dilaurate (up to 5%), Glyceryl Diisostearate (up to 43%), Glyceryl Dioleate (up to 2%), Glyceryl Distearate (up to 7%), and Glyceryl Stearate Lactate (up to 5%) are reported to be in current use. Production proceeds from fully refined vegetable oils, which are further processed using hydrogenation and fractionation techniques, and the end products are produced by reacting selected mixtures of the partly hydrogenated, partly fractionated oils and fats with vegetable-derived glycerine to yield partial glycerides. In the final stage of the production process, the products are purified by deodorization, which effectively removes pesticide residues and lower boiling residues such as residues of halogenated solvents and aromatic solvents. Diglycerides have been approved by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) for use as indirect food additives. Nominally, these ingredients are 1,3-diglycerides, but are easily isomerized to the 1,2-diglycerides form. The 1,3-diglyceride isomer is not a significant toxicant in acute, short-term, subchronic, or chronic animal tests. Glyceryl Dilaurate was a mild primary irritant in albino rabbits, but not a skin sensitizer in guinea pig maximization tests. Diacylglycerol Oil was not genotoxic in the Ames test, in mammalian Chinese hamster lung cells, or in a rodent bone marrow micronucleus assay. An eye shadow containing 1.5% Glyceryl Dilaurate did not induce skin irritation in a single insult patch test, but mild skin irritation reactions to a foundation containing the same concentration were observed. A trade mixture containing an unspecified concentration of Glyceryl Dibehenate did not induce irritation or significant cutaneous intolerance in a 48-h occlusive patch test. In maximization tests, neither an eye shadow nor a foundation containing 1.5% Glyceryl Dilaurate was a skin sensitizer. Sensitization was not induced in subjects patch tested with 50% w/w Glyceryl Dioleate in a repeated insult, occlusive patch test. Glyceryl Palmitate Lactate (50% w/v) did not induce skin irritation or sensitization in subjects patch tested in a repeat-insult patch test. Phototoxicity or photoallergenicity was not induced in healthy volunteers tested with a lipstick containing 1.0% Glyceryl Rosinate. Two diacylglycerols, 1-oleoyl-2-acetoyl-sn-glycerol and 1,2-dipalmitoyl-sn-glycerol, did not alter cell proliferation (as determined by DNA synthesis) in normal human dermal fibroblasts in vitro at doses up to 10 microg/ml. In the absence of initiation, Glyceryl Distearate induced a moderate hyperplastic response in randomly bred mice of a tumor-resistant strain, and with 9,10-dimethyl-1,2-benzanthracene (DMBA) initiation, an increase in the total cell count was observed. In a glyceryl monoester study, a single application of DMBA to the skin followed by 5% Glyceryl Stearate twice weekly produced no tumors, but slight epidermal hyperplasia at the site of application. Glyceryl Dioleate induced transformation in 3-methylcholanthrene-initiated BALB/3T3 A31-1-1 cloned cells in vitro. A tumor-promoting dosing regimen that consisted of multiple applications of 10 mumol of a 1,2-diacylglycerol (sn-1,2-didecanoylglycerol) to female mice twice daily for 1 week caused more than a 60% decrease in protein kinase C (PKC) activity and marked epidermal hyperplasia. Applications of 10 micromol sn-1,2-didecanoylglycerol twice weekly for 1 week caused a decrease in cytosolic PKC activity, an increase in particulate PKC activity, and no epidermal hyperplasia. In studies of the tumor-promoting activity of 1,2-diacylglycerols, dose and the exposure regimen by which the dose is delivered play a role in tumor promotion. The 1,2-diacylglycerol-induced activation of PKC may also relate to the saturation of the fatty acid in the 1 or 2 position; 1,2-Diacylglycerols with two saturated fatty acids are less effective. Also, the activity of 1,2-diacylglycerols may be reduced when the fatty acid moiety in the structure is a long-chain fatty acid. A histological evaluation was performed on human skin from female volunteers (18 to 56 years old) who had applied a prototype lotion or placebo formulation, both containing 0.5% Glyceryl Dilaurate, consecutively for 16 weeks or 21 weeks. Skin irritation was not observed in any of the subjects tested. Biopsies (2 mm) taken from both legs of five subjects indicated no recognizable abnormalities of the skin; the epidermis was normal in thickness, and there was no evidence of scaling, inflammation, or neoplasms in any of the tissues that were evaluated. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel considered that the available safety test data indicate that diglycerides in the 1,3-diester form do not present any significant acute toxicity risk, nor are these ingredients irritating, sensitizing, or photosensitizing. Whereas no data are available regarding reproductive or developmental toxicity, there is no reason to suspect any such toxicity because the dermal absorption of these chemicals is negligible. The Panel noted that these nominally 1,3-diglycerides contain 1,2-diglycerides, raising the concern that 1,2-diglycerides could potentially induce hyperplasia. Data regarding the induction of PKC and the tumor promotion potential of 1,2-diacylglycerols increased the level of concern. Most of the diglycerides considered in this safety assessment, however, have fatty acid chains longer than 14 carbons and none have mixed saturated/unsaturated fatty acid moieties. The Panel considered it particularly important that a 21-week use study of a prototype lotion containing 0.5% Glyceryl Dilaurate (a 14-carbon chain fatty acid) indicated no evidence of scaling, inflammation, or neoplasms in biopsy specimens. Also, DNA synthesis assays on Glyceryl Dilaurate and Glyceryl Distearate indicated that neither chemical altered cell proliferation (as determined by DNA synthesis) in normal human dermal fibroblasts in vitro at doses up to 10 microg/ml. The Panel understands that use testing is a common practice in industry and, if histopathology data are collected, the Panel believes that such an approach can demonstrate an absence of epidermal hyperplasia. Because the concentration of these ingredients can vary (up to 43% for Glyceryl Diisostearate in lipstick), the frequency of application can be several times daily, and the proportion of diglycerides that are inactive 1,3 isomers versus potentially biologically active 1,2 isomers is unknown, the Panel believes that each use should be examined to ensure the absence of epidermal hyperplasia during product development and testing. In the absence of inhalation toxicity data on the Glyceryl Diesters in this safety assessment, the Panel determined that these ingredients can be used safely in aerosolized products because they are not respirable. The Panel recognizes that certain ingredients in this group are reportedly used in a given product category, but the concentration of use is not available. For other ingredients in this group, information regarding use concentration for specific product categories is provided, but the number of such products is not known. In still other cases, an ingredient is not in current use, but may be used in the future. Although there are gaps in knowledge about product use, the overall information available on the types of products in which these ingredients are used and at what concentration indicate a pattern of use. Within this overall pattern of use, the CIR Expert Panel considers all ingredients in this group to be safe.

Unexpected skin barrier influence from nonionic emulsifiers

Skin disorders are often treated with creams containing various active substances. The creams also contain emulsifiers, which are surface-active ingredients used to stabilize the emulsion. Emulsifiers are potential irritants and in the present study the influence of stearic acid, glyceryl stearate, PEG-2, -9, -40, and -100 stearate, steareth-2, -10 and -21 on normal as well as on irritated skin have been evaluated with non-invasive measurements. Test emulsions were created by incorporating 5% emulsifiers in a water/mineral oil mixture (50:50). The emulsions and their vehicle were then applied to normal skin for 48 h and to sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) damaged skin for 17 h in aluminum chambers. Twenty-four hours after removal of the chambers the test sites were evaluated for degree of irritation. In normal skin, the emulsifiers induced significant differences in TEWL but not in skin blood flow. Five of the emulsifiers increased TEWL. In SLS-damaged skin an aggravation of the irritation was expected. However, no differences regarding skin blood flow was noted from the emulsifiers. Furthermore, three emulsifiers unexpectedly decreased TEWL. These results highlight the possibility of absorption of these emulsifiers into the lipid bilayer, which increase TEWL in normal skin and decrease TEWL in damaged skin.

The role of tobacco smoke, iron ore mine dusts, viruses, and chemicals in experimental cancer

Assessment of long-term studies on the carcinogenic potential of certain environmental agents has indicated that all of the following appear to activate and/or promote the inherent tumors of the host strains of the animals used irrespective of the extent of additional immunological modulation accompanying the agents: tobacco smoke inhalation, the implantation and inhalation of the respirable fraction of iron ore mine dusts, acute neonatal reovirus 3 infection, urethane, and tobacco smoke inhalation following urethane treatment. It is proposed that these environmental agents function at the onc-gene level as promoters/activators rather than carcinogens, and that this now requires an understanding of the means by which certain environmental agents function at the onc-gene level.