In vitro skin penetration of acetyl hexapeptide-8 from a cosmetic formulation

Developing Plant Exosomes as an Advanced Delivery System for Cosmetic Peptide

Peptides are a promising skincare ingredient, but due to their inherent instability and the barrier function of the skin's surface, they often have limited skin absorption and penetration, which can significantly hinder their skincare benefits. To address this, a novel technique called NanoGlow has been introduced for encapsulating peptide-based cosmetic raw materials into engineered nanosized plant-derived exosomes (pExo) to achieve the goal of a healthier and more radiant skin state. In this approach, pExo served as carriers for cosmetic peptides across the intact skin barrier, enhancing their biological effectiveness in skin beauty. The NanoGlow strategy combines chemical activation and physical proencapsulation, boasting a high success rate and straightforward and stable operation, making it suitable for large-scale production. Comprehensive analysis using in vitro cellular absorption and skin penetration models has demonstrated that the nanosized pExo carriers significantly improve peptide penetration into the skin compared to free peptides. Furthermore, in vivo tissue slice studies have shown that pExo carriers efficiently deliver acetyl hexapeptide-8 to the skin's dermis, surpassing the performance of free peptides. Cosmetic skincare effect analysis has also indicated that pExo-loaded cosmetic peptides deliver superior results. Therefore, the NanoGlow technique harnesses the natural size and properties of pExo to maximize the bioavailability of cosmetic peptides, holding great promise for developing advanced peptide delivery systems in both the cosmetic and medical drug industries.

Microemulsions and Nanoemulsions for Topical Delivery of Tripeptide-3: From Design of Experiment to Anti-Sebum Efficacy on Facial Skin

The targeted delivery of a hydrophilic Tripeptide-3 to the skin using microemulsions or nanoemulsions for facial oil reduction was the focus of this study. The impact factors affecting oil/water transparent dispersion formation, such as the surfactant system, HLB value, and co-solvent, were identified through the water titration method and pseudoternary phase diagram plots. The interfacial tension between caprylic/capric triglyceride (CCT oil) and water was significantly reduced by the surfactant/co-surfactant combination (Smix) of Cremophore® RH40 and a double-tails co-surfactant, polyglycerol-3-diisostearate, at an HLB of 13 together with a water-to-co-solvent (PG) ratio of 1:1. A two-level full factorial design of experiment (FFD-DoE) emphasized the independent variables of the HLB value, co-solvent, and CCT oil contents affecting the optimal compositions for micro- or nanoemulsion formation. The low-energy spontaneous emulsification of the optimized combination at a low Smix content (10%) yielded the translucent oil-in-water Tripeptide-3 nanoemulsions with an internal droplet size of 25.7 ± 1.20 nm, a narrow polydispersity index of 0.237 ± 0.129, and 70.6 ± 0.58% transmittance. The in vitro skin permeation study revealed a significantly higher skin penetration and retention of the Tripeptide-3 nanoemulsions compared to the high surfactant microemulsions and coarse emulsions. Skin irritation and oil control efficacy were evaluated in healthy volunteers before and after product application for 28 days. The obtained nanoemulsions not only decreased sebum production but also enhanced skin moisture levels. In conclusion, the meticulously designed nanoemulsions, incorporating suitable excipients, show a promising delivery system for hydrophilic peptides to control sebum overproduction in oily facial skin.

Peptide-containing nanoformulations: Skin barrier penetration and activity contribution

Transdermal drug delivery presents a less invasive pathway, circumventing the need to pass through the gastrointestinal tract and liver, thereby reducing drug breakdown, initial metabolism, and gastrointestinal discomfort. Nevertheless, the unique composition and dense structure of the stratum corneum present a significant barrier to transdermal delivery. This article presents an overview of the current developments in peptides and nanotechnology to address this challenge. Initially, we sum up peptide-containing nanoformulations for transdermal drug delivery, examining them through the lenses of both inorganic and organic materials. Particular emphasis is placed on the diverse roles that peptides play within these nanoformulations, including conferring functionality upon nanocarriers and enhancing the biological efficacy of drugs. Subsequently, we summarize innovative strategies for enhancing skin penetration, categorizing them into passive and active approaches. Lastly, we discuss the therapeutic potential of peptide-containing nanoformulations in addressing a range of diseases, drawing insights from the biological activities and functions of peptides. Furthermore, the challenges hindering clinical translation are also discussed, providing valuable insights for future advancements in transdermal drug delivery.

Investigating the effects of Argireline in a skin serum containing hyaluronic acids on skin surface wrinkles using the Visia® Complexion Analysis camera system for objective skin analysis

Objective

To analyze the effects of Argireline on skin surface wrinkles using the Visia® camera system developed by Canfield Scientific Inc., U.S.A., for facial image capture.

Method

Nineteen female participants were recruited from a plastic surgery clinic. Initial facial images captured the left, front, and right sides of the participants' faces, which were documented as timepoint one. Following this, the participants immediately began to apply a facial skin serum containing triple hyaluronic acids produced by CNC cosmetic GmbH, Philippsburg, Germany. The serum was applied once in the morning and once in the evening. Participants received two identical containers labeled L for left and R for right, with each container to be used on the corresponding facial side, particularly around the eye area. One container contained Argireline, a synthetic hexapeptide, which previously was deemed to be a biosafe alternative to botulinum neurotoxin. The study was conducted as double-blind; neither the participants nor researchers knew which of the two containers contained Argireline. Participants were allowed to use their own cosmetic products throughout the study. After four weeks, the participants returned to have their faces recaptured using the Visia® camera, which was documented as timepoint two. The absolute scores of the wrinkles were noted, and results on both sides of the face were calculated and compared. The "TruSkinAge®" measurement provided by the Visia® camera was reviewed for each face side. Results between both time points and both sides of the face were compared. After the data analysis was complete, the company was contacted to determine which container contained Argireline.

Results

Nineteen participants returned for facial image capture. There were no significant adverse events, allergic reactions, or skin irritations. The investigation revealed that the wrinkle score slightly decreased for the right and left side of the face following four weeks of serum application. However, this decrease was not significant (p>0.05) based on the Wilcoxon matched pairs tests for the wrinkle scores (right side p=0.060 and left side p=0.176) and Truskin Ages® results (right side p=0.096 and left side p=0.489).Comparing the data from the right side with that from the left side of the face revealed that neither demonstrated a significant reduction in wrinkle score (p=0.829) or Truskin Ages® results (p=0.804). Argireline was included in the serum applied to the right side of the face. However, no statistical significance was seen in the results on this side of the face indicating any possible effects.

Conclusion

Wrinkle scores and Truskin Ages® results were observed to decrease non-significantly following the application of a skin serum involving hyaluronic acid. The Visia® imaging method was used to analyze the data objectively. Differences between both sides of the face that were treated with and without Argireline were not statistically significant. Therefore, the effect of Argireline was not proven. While Argireline presented with low toxicity, its efficacy was found not to be significant. Therefore, it is not deemed to be an alternative treatment to botulinum toxin.

Parahydrogen hyperpolarized NMR detection of underivatized short oligopeptides

Parahydrogen hyperpolarization has evolved into a versatile tool in NMR, allowing substantial sensitivity enhancements in analysis of biological samples. Herein we show how its application scope can be extended from small metabolites to underivatized oligopeptides in solution. Based on a homologous series of alanine oligomers, we report on an experimental and DFT study on the structure of the oligopeptide and hyperpolarization catalyst complexes formed in the process. We demonstrate that alanine oligomers coordinate to the iridium carbene-based catalyst in three different ways, each giving rise to distinctive hydride signals. Moreover, the exact structures of the transient oligopeptide-catalyst complexes are oligomer-specific. This work gives a first insight into how the organometallic iridium-N-heterocyclic carbene-based parahydrogen hyperpolarization catalyst interacts with biopolymers that have multiple catalyst binding sites. A preliminary application example is demonstrated for oligopeptide detection in urine, a complex biological mixture.

Polydioxanone Bioactive Sutures-Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline): An Intelligent System for Controlled Release in Facial Harmonization

Introduction

We propose a new facial lifting protocol using polydioxanone (PDO) threads embedded in acetyl hexapeptide-8 (Argireline [Arg]). We assume that Arg reinforces the effects of PDO threads, as it is a mimetic of botulinum toxin. Because the PDO suture is hydrolyzable, this assumption is analyzed by instrumental analysis.

Objective

To demonstrate the capacity of the PDO suture as a system for the controlled release of acetyl hexapeptide-8 to apply in deep wrinkles of the upper third.

Materials and Methods

Three segments of 1-cm long 21G PDO threads immersed in 1 mL of Arg. PDO threads were observed under an optical, electron microscope at 24, 48, and 72 h later. They were also weighed before and after being soaked in Arg, and employing ultraviolet (UV)-visible spectroscopy, the release rate of Arg from the PDO suture was measured. Finally, was insert the thread PDO-Arg following a protocol designed especially for deep static wrinkles in the upper third.

Results

The electronic weighing revealed that the PDO thread enjoys capillarity by the peptide, doubling its weight every 24 h. UV spectra revealed that PDO thread is a well-controlled release system for Arg, allowing its sustained release for 1 h. Optical and electronic photomicrographs confirm the swelling of the PDO thread by absorbing Arg by its capillarity, but this hydrophilicity does not lead to its premature physical degradation.

Conclusions

The PDO thread system with Arg is an intelligent bioactive system useful in facial harmonization. It recommend conduct clinical trial to verify his superior lifting effect.

Design and Evaluation of Complex Polypeptide-Loaded Dissolving Microneedles for Improving Facial Wrinkles in Different Areas

Wrinkles are one of the most intuitive manifestations of skin aging. Complex polypeptide-loaded dissolving microneedles (CP-DMNs) for facial wrinkles in different areas have been developed and evaluated for the first time. In optimizing formulations, we compared the differences in CP-DMNs heights on skin insertion depth and skin repair and healing. Furthermore, systemic safety experiments were carried out to provide a reference for clinical application. On this basis, an 84-day efficacy assessment based on the improvement of facial wrinkles in different areas and a comparison between CP-DMNs vs. placebo was performed on 30 healthy subjects. As a result, DMNs with a height of 300 μm presented sufficient strength to pierce the stratum corneum with minimized skin damage. In addition, CP-DMNs possessed excellent biological safety and skin compatibility for clinical application. Compared with placebo, CP-DMNs exhibited obvious improvements in wrinkles distributed in the corners of eyes, under-eyes, and nasolabial folds. Furthermore, after using CP-DMNs for 84 days, facial wrinkles in five different areas were smoothed. In short, the complex polypeptides showed apparent anti-wrinkle efficacy with the aid of DMNs technology, and CP-DMNs seemed to work better on deeper wrinkles, such as frown lines and nasolabial folds.

The Effect of Synthetic Acetylhexapeptide-8 (AH8) on Sebaceous Function

OBJECTIVE

This study aims to evaluate the in vitro and clinical effects of topical acetylhexapeptide-8 (AH8) on the appearance of oily skin.

METHODS

In vitro SEB-1 human sebocyte cell lines were exposed to different concentrations of AH8 , then the lipid content of the sebocytes was measured. For the randomized, controlled, split-face clinical study, participants received AH8 10% lotion formulated in Cetaphil Moisturizing Facial Lotion on one side of their face and the control vehicle lotion on the other side of their face. Facial oiliness was assessed by a trained physician using a 3-point grading system, high-resolution digital photographs, and a sebumeter (SM815). Participants also filled out self-assessments of their skin oiliness.

RESULTS

The in vitro experiments showed that sebocyte lipid content significantly decreased after AH8 treatment (p < 0.05 at 0.00005% AH8 , p=0.09 at 0.0005% AH8 , p < 0.05 at 0.005% AH8,and p < 0.001 at 0.025% AH8). In the clinical study, participants trended towards a 10% reduction (p=0.16) in sebum production after AH8 treatment in comparison to the vehicle treatment.

CONCLUSION

AH8 inhibits the accumulation of lipids in sebocytes in vitro without altering cell proliferation or SREBP-1 expression. Topical AH8 trended toward decreased sebum production in human participants. The use of AH8 may serve as a promising agent to reduce sebocyte lipid production and the appearance of oily skin.

Matrikines as mediators of tissue remodelling

Extracellular matrix (ECM) proteins confer biomechanical properties, maintain cell phenotype and mediate tissue repair (via release of sequestered cytokines and proteases). In contrast to intracellular proteomes, where proteins are monitored and replaced over short time periods, many ECM proteins function for years (decades in humans) without replacement. The longevity of abundant ECM proteins, such as collagen I and elastin, leaves them vulnerable to damage accumulation and their host organs prone to chronic, age-related diseases. However, ECM protein fragmentation can potentially produce peptide cytokines (matrikines) which may exacerbate and/or ameliorate age- and disease-related ECM remodelling. In this review, we discuss ECM composition, function and degradation and highlight examples of endogenous matrikines. We then critically and comprehensively analyse published studies of matrix-derived peptides used as topical skin treatments, before considering the potential for improvements in the discovery and delivery of novel matrix-derived peptides to skin and internal organs. From this, we conclude that while the translational impact of matrix-derived peptide therapeutics is evident, the mechanisms of action of these peptides are poorly defined. Further, well-designed, multimodal studies are required.

Application of Confocal Raman Microscopy for the Characterization of Topical Semisolid Formulations and their Penetration into Human Skin Ex Vivo

PURPOSE

The quality testing and approval procedure for most pharmaceutical products is a streamlined process with standardized procedures for the determination of critical quality attributes. However, the evaluation of semisolid dosage forms for topical drug delivery remains a challenging task. The work presented here highlights confocal Raman microscopy (CRM) as a valuable tool for the characterization of such products.

METHODS

CRM, a laser-based method, combining chemically-selective analysis and high resolution imaging, is used for the evaluation of different commercially available topical acyclovir creams.

RESULTS

We show that CRM enables the spatially resolved analysis of microstructural features of semisolid products and provides insights into drug distribution and polymorphic state as well as the composition and arrangement of excipients. Further, we explore how CRM can be used to monitor phase separation and to study skin penetration and the interaction with fresh and cryopreserved excised human skin tissue.

CONCLUSION

This study presents a comprehensive overview and illustration of how CRM can facilitate several types of key analyses of semisolid topical formulations and of their interaction with their biological target site, illustrating that CRM is a useful tool for research, development as well as for quality testing in the pharmaceutical industry.

Skin permeability, a dismissed necessity for anti-wrinkle peptide performance

The skin offers various benefits and potential for peptide delivery if its barrier performance can be reduced temporarily and reversibly. Since peptides possess high molecular weight, hydrophilic nature (in most cases), and ionizable groups in the structure, their skin delivery is highly challenging. Apart from this, they are susceptible to the proteolytic enzymes in the skin. Anti-wrinkle peptides, like other peptides, suffer from insufficient skin permeability, while most of them must penetrate deep in the skin to present their efficacy. Although the cellular studies indicate the effectiveness of such peptides, without the ability to permeate the skin sufficiently, this efficacy is useless. Poor skin permeability of anti-wrinkle peptides has led to ongoing research for finding feasible and noninvasive enhancement methods that would be desirable for consumers of cosmetic products. In this paper, the possibility of skin permeation of anti-wrinkle peptides as well as the chemical, physical, and encapsulation approaches that have been employed to date to increase permeability of these difficult molecules are thoroughly reviewed.

Quantitation of Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 in Cosmetics by Hydrophilic Interaction Liquid Chromatography Coupled to Photo Diode Array Detection

Bioactive peptides are gaining more and more popularity in the research and development of cosmetic products with anti-aging effect. Acetyl hexapeptide-8 is a hydrophilic peptide incorporated in cosmetics to reduce the under-eye wrinkles and the forehead furrows. Hydrophilic interaction liquid chromatography (HILIC) is the separation technique of choice for analyzing peptides. In this work, a rapid HILIC method coupled to photodiode array detection operated at 214 nm was developed, validated and used to determine acetyl-hexapeptide-8 in cosmetics. Chromatography was performed on a Xbridge® HILIC BEH analytical column using as mobile phase a 40 mM ammonium formate water solution (pH 6.5)-acetonitrile mixture 30:70, v/v at flow rate 0.25 mL min−1. The assay was linear over the concentration range 20 to 30 μg mL−1 for the cosmetic formulations and 0.004 to 0.007% (w/w) for the cosmetic cream. The limits of quantitation for acetyl hexapeptide-8 were 1.5 μg mL−1 and 0.002% (w/w) for the assay of cosmetic formulations and cosmetic creams, respectively. The method was applied to the analysis of cosmetic formulations and anti-wrinkle cosmetic creams.

Advantages of Hyaluronic Acid and Its Combination with Other Bioactive Ingredients in Cosmeceuticals

This study proposes a review on hyaluronic acid (HA) known as hyaluronan or hyaluronate and its derivates and their application in cosmetic formulations. HA is a glycosaminoglycan constituted from two disaccharides (N-acetylglucosamine and D-glucuronic acid), isolated initially from the vitreous humour of the eye, and subsequently discovered in different tissues or fluids (especially in the articular cartilage and the synovial fluid). It is ubiquitous in vertebrates, including humans, and it is involved in diverse biological processes, such as cell differentiation, embryological development, inflammation, wound healing, etc. HA has many qualities that recommend it over other substances used in skin regeneration, with moisturizing and anti-ageing effects. HA molecular weight influences its penetration into the skin and its biological activity. Considering that, nowadays, hyaluronic acid has a wide use and a multitude of applications (in ophthalmology, arthrology, pneumology, rhinology, aesthetic medicine, oncology, nutrition, and cosmetics), the present study describes the main aspects related to its use in cosmetology. The biological effect of HA on the skin level and its potential adverse effects are discussed. Some available cosmetic products containing HA have been identified from the brand portfolio of most known manufacturers and their composition was evaluated. Further, additional biological effects due to the other active ingredients (plant extracts, vitamins, amino acids, peptides, proteins, saccharides, probiotics, etc.) are presented, as well as a description of their possible toxic effects.

Neurocosmetics in Skincare—The Fascinating World of Skin–Brain Connection: A Review to Explore Ingredients, Commercial Products for Skin Aging, and Cosmetic Regulation

The “modern” cosmetology industry is focusing on research devoted to discovering novel neurocosmetic functional ingredients that could improve the interactions between the skin and the nervous system. Many cosmetic companies have started to formulate neurocosmetic products that exhibit their activity on the cutaneous nervous system by affecting the skin’s neuromediators through different mechanisms of action. This review aims to clarify the definition of neurocosmetics, and to describe the features of some functional ingredients and products available on the market, with a look at the regulatory aspect. The attention is devoted to neurocosmetic ingredients for combating skin stress, explaining the stress pathways, which are also correlated with skin aging. “Neuro-relaxing” anti-aging ingredients derived from plant extracts and neurocosmetic strategies to combat inflammatory responses related to skin stress are presented. Afterwards, the molecular basis of sensitive skin and the suitable neurocosmetic ingredients to improve this problem are discussed. With the aim of presenting the major application of Botox-like ingredients as the first neurocosmetics on the market, skin aging is also introduced, and its theory is presented. To confirm the efficacy of the cosmetic products on the market, the concept of cosmetic claims is discussed.

Diving into 3D (bio)printing: A revolutionary tool to customize the production of drug and cell-based systems for skin delivery

The incorporation of 3D printing technologies in the pharmaceutical industry can revolutionize its R&D, by providing a simple and rapid method to produce tailored one-off batches, each with customized dosages, different compounds, shapes, sizes, and adjusted release rates. Particularly, this type of technology can be advantageous for the development of topical and transdermal drug delivery systems, including patches and microneedles. The use of both systems as drug carriers offers advantages over the oral administration, but the possibility of skin irritation and sensitization, and the high production costs, may hinder the expansion of this market. In this context, 3D printing, a high-resolution technique, allows the design of high quality, personalized, complex and sophisticated structures, thus reducing the production costs and improving the patient compliance. This review covers the 3D printing concept and discusses the relevance of this technology to the pharmaceutical industry, with a special focus on the development of topical and transdermal products - patches and microneedles. The potential of 3D bioprinting for skin applications is also presented, highlighting the development of patch-like skin constructs for wound and burn treatment, and skin equivalents for in vitro research and drug development. Several recent studies were selected to support the relevance of the subjects addressed herein. Additionally, the limitations of these printing technologies are discussed, including regulatory, quality and safety issues.

Argireline: Needle-Free Botox as Analytical Challenge

Argireline-containing cosmetics attract public interest due to their confirmed reduction of facial wrinkles. Argireline is a peptide that works by inhibiting the release of neurotransmitters in the neuromuscular junction, producing a botox-like effect. Therefore, it is used as a safe needle-free alternative to botox treatment. In this work we investigated the presence of Argireline in cosmetic creams and sera by application of reversed phase liquid chromatography and tandem mass spectrometry (RP-HPLC/MS and MS/MS). The analysis revealed the presence of argireline and its oxidized form in several different cosmetics. The methionine residue in Argireline sequence was indicated as oxidation point according to neutral loss MS studies. The developed sample preparation strategy minimizes and monitors methionine oxidation, bringing to our attention the question of impact of ingredients on the stability of cosmetic product.

Geometrical optimisation of a personalised microneedle eye patch for transdermal delivery of anti-wrinkle small peptide

Acetyl-hexapeptide-3 (AHP-3) is a small peptide with good anti-wrinkle efficacy and safety profile. However, due to its hydrophilicity and high molecular weight, its skin permeation is generally poor. An innovative microneedle (MN) patch such as the curved, flexible or personalised MN patch is a viable avenue to deliver AHP-3. However, the well-researched geometrical relationship of MN on a flat MN patch cannot be assumed for these novel MN patches due to a complex mix of axial and shear forces. In this study, 3D printing was used for the fabrication of various MN patches with different MN geometries and curvatures. Both mechanical strength and skin penetration efficiency were used to determine the optimal MN geometry. The optimal MN geometry was then applied to the fabrication of a personalized MN patch (PMNP) for anti-wrinkle therapy, via 3D printing. In all, the general principles of MN geometrical effects on mechanical strength and skin penetration efficiency for a curved and a flat MN patch were similar. A MN height of 800 μm, tip diameter of 100 μm, interspacing of 800 μm and base diameter of 400 μm was observed to be the optimal MN geometry across all curvatures. In vitro skin permeation study demonstrated enhanced transdermal delivery of AHP-3 using the fabricated PMNP. Therefore, PMNP with optimized MN geometry can potentially be a novel approach to augment transdermal delivery of AHP-3 for effective wrinkle management.

Enhanced Skin Permeation of Anti-wrinkle Peptides via Molecular Modification

Wrinkles can have a negative effect on quality of life and Botox is one of the most effective and common treatments. Argireline (Arg0), a mimetic of Botox, has been found to be safer than Botox and effective in reducing wrinkles, with efficacies up to 48% upon 4 weeks of twice daily treatment. However, the skin permeation of Arg0 is poor, due to its large molecular weight and hydrophilicity. Arg0 exists in zwitterionic form and this charged state hindered its skin permeation. Chemical modification of the peptide structure to reduce the formation of zwitterions may result in increased skin permeability. We investigated a total of 4 peptide analogues (Arg0, Arg1, Arg2, Arg3), in terms of skin permeation and wrinkle reduction. The 4 peptides were dissolved in various propylene glycol and water co-solvents. Enhanced human skin permeation was demonstrated by both Arg2 and Arg3 in vitro. On the other hand, the abilities of the 4 analogues to reduce wrinkle formation were also compared using primary human dental pulp stem cells derived neurons. By measuring the inhibition of glutamate release from the neurons in vitro, it was shown that Arg3 was the most effective, followed by Arg1, Arg0 and Arg2.