A Comparison of Two Antecubital Fossa Tests with Personal Care Products

Detergent-induced epidermal barrier dysfunction and its prevention

Various detergents are used as skin cleansing products. In some cases, skin cleanser removes not only dirt but also valuable skin lipids. Therefore, detergents may disrupt epidermal barrier function despite that using of detergents are required for good skin hygiene. Lipid supplements can reverse detergent-induced dysfunction of the skin barrier. Elevated transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and riboflavin penetration in 5% SLS-treated rat and human skin were reversed by supplementation of monoglyceride (MG), squalene (SQ), cholesterol ester (CE) and pseudo-ceramide (Cer2). MG and Cer2 achieved the best results. MG appears to inhibit elution of intercellular ceramides, since more ceramides remained when the detergent was supplemented with MG. Topical application of Cer2 is not effective for recovery from artificially induced barrier disruption, but supplemented Cer2 into skin cleanser has a beneficial effect for prevention of detergent-induced barrier disruption. In conclusion, the prevention of barrier disruption is most important matter for maintaining skin health and barrier function. Therefore, we think that Cer2-supplemented skin cleanser is useful for conservation of skin barrier function.

Non-animal testing strategies for assessment of the skin corrosion and skin irritation potential of ingredients and finished products

The dermatotoxicologist today is faced with a dilemma. Protection of workers and consumers from skin toxicities (irritation and allergy) associated with exposure to products, and the ingredients they contain, requires toxicological skin testing prior to manufacture, transport, or marketing. Testing for skin corrosion or irritation has traditionally been conducted in animals, particularly in rabbits via the long established Draize test method. However, this procedure, among others, has been subject to criticism, both for its limited predictive capacity for human toxicity, as well as for its use of animals. In fact, legislation is pending in the European Union which would ban the sale of cosmetic products, the ingredients of which have been tested in animals. These considerations, and advancements in both in vitro skin biology and clinical testing, have helped drive an intensive effort among skin scientists to develop alternative test methods based either on in vitro test systems (e.g. using rat, pig or human skin ex vivo, or reconstructed human skin models) or ethical clinical approaches (human volunteer studies). Tools are now in place today to enable a thorough skin corrosion and irritation assessment of new ingredients and products without the need to test in animals. Herein, we describe general testing strategies and new test methods for the assessment of skin corrosion and irritation. The methods described, and utilized within industry today, provide a framework for the practicing toxicologist to support new product development initiatives through the use of reliable skin safety testing and risk assessment tools and strategies.

Modern skin cleansers

The course of development of skin cleansers has been one of continual improvement. Soap-based products, used since antiquity, offered improved cleansing over mechanical methods or water alone but could irritate and dry skin. Bars based on synthetic detergents that offer improved skin compatibility compared with soap have become available over the past several decades. Body washes have been growing in consumer popularity. Some of the first body washes introduced into the market offered a moisturization benefit in addition to mildness. Some second-generation body washes that are now on the market use even more sophisticated formulation schemes, such as coacervate technology, to deliver emulsified petrolatum to the skin during washing, providing mild cleansing and a significant dry skin improvement benefit. Consumer demand and the formulation possibilities provided by new product formats, new technologies, and new ingredients will undoubtedly lead to the delivery of even greater skin benefits in the future.