Effects of Different Hangboard Training Intensities on Finger Grip Strength, Stamina, and Endurance

Pull-Up Performance Is Affected Differently by the Muscle Contraction Regimens Practiced during Training among Climbers

Sport climbing performance is highly related to upper limb strength and endurance. Although finger-specific methods are widely analyzed in the literature, no study has yet quantified the effects of arm-specific training. This study aims to compare the effects of three types of training involving different muscle contraction regimens on climbers' pull-up capabilities. Thirty advanced to high-elite climbers were randomly divided into four groups: eccentric (ECC; n = 8), isometric (ISO; n = 7), plyometric (PLYO; n = 6), and no specific training (CTRL; n = 9), and they participated in a 5-week training, twice a week, focusing on pull-ups on hangboard. Pre- and post-training assessments were conducted using a force-sensing hangboard, analyzing force, velocity, power, and muscle work during three pull-up exercises: pull-ups at body weight under different conditions, incremental weighted pull-ups, and an exhaustion test. The CTRL group showed no change. Maximum strength improved in all three training groups (from +2.2 ± 3.6% to +5.0 ± 2.4%; p < 0.001); velocity variables enhanced in the ECC and PLYO groups (from +5.7 ± 7.4 to +28.7 ± 42%; p < 0.05), resulting in greater power; amplitude increased in the ECC group; and muscle work increased in the PLYO group (+21.9 ± 16.6%; p = 0.015). A 5-week training period effectively enhanced arm performance, but outcomes were influenced by the chosen muscle contraction regimens and initial individual characteristics.

Handgrip strength and upper limb functional performance measures in people over 18 years old: Analysis of relationships and influencing factors

BACKGROUND

Handgrip strength is a common, simple, and inexpensive method to measure muscle strength. On the other hand, the functional performance measurement involves a usual task which implies repeating elements between the individuals' interaction and the environment. This is fundamental for projecting their results to daily life situation.

PURPOSE

To explore the relationship between grip strength and measures of functional performance of the upper limbs (ULs) in people over 18 years of age, and to determine the influence of sociodemographic and anthropometric variables on the relationship.

STUDY DESIGN

A cross-sectional study was conducted under the analytical empirical approach, using linear associations between handgrip strength and functional performance measurement tests (correspondence analysis).

METHODS

Three hundred sixty-two male and female individuals between 18 and 91 years of age from 4 Colombian cities participated. The grip strength of both ULs measured with a digital dynamometry was associated with the Box and Block Test (BBT, manual dexterity), Nine-Hole Peg Test (NHPT, daily living tasks), and Jebsen-Taylor Hand Function Test (JJT, ability to grasp, pick up, and place). Multiple linear regression analyzes were performed to assess possible explanatory factors of a sociodemographic and anthropometric order.

RESULTS

A significant association was found between the grip strength of dominant and non-dominant ULs with all functional performance tests (ρ > 0.27 and p < .001), except for the writing and simulated feeding subtests of the JJT (ρ ≤ 0.16). An interactive effect of age was found in the relationship between grip strength and the 3 functional performance tests.

CONCLUSIONS

These results support the association between grip strength with the NHPT, JJT, and BBT measures and the interactive effect of age on the performance of all tests.

Assessing climbers' pull-up capabilities by differentiating the parameters involved in power production

This study explored the capabilities of sport climbers to pull up with arms. The methodology aimed at assessing (i) concentric capabilities of arm muscles, (ii) body coordination skills (iii) characteristics of energy storage and (iv) capabilities to resist fatigue. Twenty-eight climbers were tested and the force exerted was recorded during three pull-up exercises: jump tests (with or without coordination, or preceded by an eccentric phase), incrementally weighted pull-ups and maximum number of pull-ups. Force, velocity, muscle power and muscle work were analysed using ANOVA with post-hoc tests and principal component analysis. Correlations with climbing level were also studied. Overall, jump test results showed that body coordination and stretch-shortening cycle phenomena contributed significantly to performance but only the body coordination was related to the climber's grade level. Muscle work and maximum number of pull-ups are correlated with climbing level which showed that the capacity to resist fatigue is another crucial capability of climbers arms. The development of force capacities appeared crucial for performing whereas the velocity capabilities seemed to originate from the climber's own characteristics/style without correlating with climbing performance. Our study provides the basis for evaluating these parameters in order to help trainers in the diagnosis process and training follow-up.

Change in grip strength, hang time, and knot tying speed after 24 hours of endurance rock climbing

Background

Non-professional climbers are increasingly attempting long routes in a single day. Many suffer injury or rely on search and rescue teams when they become too fatigued to finish. Predicting fatigue is difficult, and existing studies have only studied climbers over durations less than an hour, while many outdoor multipitch climbs require more than an hour of climbing.

Objectives

To determine how strength, endurance, and dexterity reflect fatigue after 24 h of continuous climbing.

Methods

Volunteer competitors completed measurements of grip strength, static hang time to failure, and time to tie a figure-eight follow-through knot. Measurements were taken during the registration period before the competition and again within an hour after the competition ended. Measurements were compared using the paired t-test. Subgroup analysis was applied to competitors by division. Linear regression was applied to determine the relationship between vertical feet climbed and the number of routes climbed during the competition on each metric.

Results

Thirty-six total climbers (average age 29.4 years old) completed pre- and post-competition measurements. After 24 h of climbing (n = 36), mean grip strength decreased by 14.3-15 lbs or 14.7%-15.1% (p < 0.001) and static hang time decreased by 54.2 s or 71.2% (p < 0.001). There was no significant change in time to tie a figure-eight-follow-through knot. Grip strength and hang time decreases were significant in climbers with outdoor redpoints of 5.10a and above. Hang time decreased by 5.4 s per 1,000 vertical feet climbed (p = 0.044).

Conclusion

Climbers can expect to experience a 14.7%-15.1% decrease in grip strength and 71.2% decrease in static hang time after 24 h of continuous climbing. These changes may make it difficult to climb consistently over a long objective, and climbers can use these measures at home to train for longer climbing routes. Future studies on shorter climbing intervals can help determine rates of decline in performance measures.