Prevalence of amenorrhea in elite female competitive climbers

Social media behaviors and body type ideals predict weight loss and food tracking behaviors among recreational climbers

Introduction

Elite and recreational climbers may be at risk for disordered eating, low energy availability (LEA), and increased injury as a result. Social media use among athlete and non-athletes can lead to body image disturbances resulting in unhealthy weight loss practices exacerbating LEA and injury risk. Therefore, the objective of this study was to examine relationships between social comparative behaviors on social media, body type ideals and outcomes, and health behaviors among adult recreational climbers.

Methods

Participants (n = 324) were adult recreational climbers from the U.S. (29.30 ± 9.99 years old and 50% female). Participants answered a 66-item questionnaire comprised of demographics, climbing characteristics, social media behaviors, body type ideals, training and nutrition-seeking behaviors, and weight and food tracking behaviors.

Results

Most participants (78.7%) indicated strength-to-weight ratio was important for climbing performance. Many participants perceived they could perform better at rock climbing if their body proportions were different (59.3%). These body type ideals were found to be significant predictors of performing weight loss and food-tracking behaviors (all p < 0.001). Higher amounts of social comparative behaviors on social media and social physique anxiety independently and significantly predicted attempting weight loss to improve climbing ability (p < 0.001 and p = 0.001 respectively). Those who followed climbing influencers, used Instagram frequently for training and nutrition information, perceived they could perform better at rock climbing if their body proportions were different, or were female and college-aged had significantly higher mean social comparative behavior scores (all p < 0.01).

Discussion

This study expands on prior work with elite climbers by providing a possible explanation for how climbing-related body type ideals and certain social media behaviors can perpetuate negative body image and compensatory behaviors among a general climbing population. Because unhealthy weight management behaviors can lead to injury and health disturbances, broad education programming and social media campaigns should be developed to shift body ideals and nutrition behaviors among recreational climbers.

Association between Physical Activity and Menstrual Cycle Disorders in Young Athletes

Our study aims to evaluate clinical predictors of menstrual cycle disorders in female athletes who compete in running disciplines. This is a prospective observational study. Women were recruited between January and May 2022. Fifty-three patients were enrolled and completed a questionnaire about menstrual cycle, physical activity, and food habit characteristics. Of the women in our population, 39.6% had menstrual irregularities and reported a significantly higher number of kilometers run per week (67 vs. 35, p:0.02). The number of kilometers run per week was associated with menstrual irregularities (for 10 km, OR 1.35; IC95% 1.05-1.73; p: 0.02) after adjusting for BMI, age, level of sport and caloric intake. The variable of "km run per week" appeared as a diagnostic indicator of irregular menstrual cycle with statistical significance (AUC ROC curve 0.71, IC95% 0.54-0.86, p-value=0.01) and the cut-off of 65 km run per week is a good indicator of the presence of irregular menstrual cycle (sensitivity (SE) and specificity (SP) of 55% and 81.48%). Menstrual cycle disorders are very frequent in female athletes, and the variable of km run per week may play a role in screening endurance athletes at high risk for these disorders.

The Connection Between Resistance Training, Climbing Performance, and Injury Prevention

BACKGROUND

Climbing is an intricate sport composed of various disciplines, holds, styles, distances between holds, and levels of difficulty. In highly skilled climbers the potential for further strength-specific adaptations to increase performance may be marginal in elite climbers. With an eye on the upcoming 2024 Paris Olympics, more climbers are trying to maximize performance and improve training strategies. The relationships between muscular strength and climbing performance, as well as the role of strength in injury prevention, remain to be fully elucidated. This narrative review seeks to discuss the current literature regarding the effect of resistance training in improving maximal strength, muscle hypertrophy, muscular power, and local muscular endurance on climbing performance, and as a strategy to prevent injuries.

MAIN BODY

Since sport climbing requires exerting forces against gravity to maintain grip and move the body along the route, it is generally accepted that a climber`s absolute and relative muscular strength are important for climbing performance. Performance characteristics of forearm flexor muscles (hang-time on ledge, force output, rate of force development, and oxidative capacity) discriminate between climbing performance level, climbing styles, and between climbers and non-climbers. Strength of the hand and wrist flexors, shoulders and upper limbs has gained much attention in the scientific literature, and it has been suggested that both general and specific strength training should be part of a climber`s training program. Furthermore, the ability to generate sub-maximal force in different work-rest ratios has proved useful, in examining finger flexor endurance capacity while trying to mimic real-world climbing demands. Importantly, fingers and shoulders are the most frequent injury locations in climbing. Due to the high mechanical stress and load on the finger flexors, fingerboard and campus board training should be limited in lower-graded climbers. Coaches should address, acknowledge, and screen for amenorrhea and disordered eating in climbers.

CONCLUSION

Structured low-volume high-resistance training, twice per week hanging from small ledges or a fingerboard, is a feasible approach for climbers. The current injury prevention training aims to increase the level of performance through building tolerance to performance-relevant load exposure and promoting this approach in the climbing field.

Protocol for a 2-year longitudinal study of eating disturbances, mental health problems and overuse injuries in rock climbers (CLIMB)

INTRODUCTION

Rock climbing is a rapidly growing sport in which performance may be affected by participant's weight and leanness, and there may be pressure on athletes with respect to their eating behaviour and body weight. However, there is sparse research performed on climbers, constituting a knowledge gap which the present study aims to fill. The primary outcomes of the study are to examine disordered eating and overuse injuries in rock climbers. Secondary variables are body image, indicators of relative energy deficiency, mental health problems, compulsive training, perfectionism, sleep quality and bone density.

METHOD AND ANALYSIS

This prospective longitudinal study aims to recruit Swedish competitive rock climbers (>13 years) via the Swedish Climbing Federation. A non-athlete control group will be recruited via social media (n=equal of the climbing group). Data will be collected using streamlined validated web-based questionnaires with three follow-ups over 2 years. Inclusion criteria for rock climbers will be a minimum advanced level according to International Rock-Climbing Research Association. The non-athlete control group is matched for age and gender. Exclusion criteria are having competed at an elite level in any sport as well as training more often than twice per week. Statistical analyses will include multinominal logistic regression, multivariate analysis of variance (MANOVA) and structural equation modelling (SEM). We will assess effect measure modification when relevant and conduct sensitivity analyses to assess the impact of lost to follow-up.

ETHICS AND DISSEMINATION

The Rock-Climbers' Longitudinal attitudes towards Injuries, Mental health and Body image study, CLIMB, was approved by the Swedish ethics authority (2021-05557-01). Results will be disseminated through peer-reviewed research papers, reports, research conferences, student theses and stakeholder communications.

TRIAL REGISTRATION NUMBER

NCT05587270.

Top of the podium, at what cost? injuries in female international elite climbers

Objectives

Competitive sport climbing has made its way to the Olympic stage. This prestige has brought about route setting and training alterations which presumably affect injury epidemiology. Most of the climbing injury literature contains male climbers and lacks high performing athletes. Studies with both female and male climbers, rarely included separate analyses for performance level or sex. Therefore, injury concerns for elite female competitive climbers are impossible to discern. A former study examined the prevalence of amenorrhea in elite international female climbers (n = 114) and reported that 53.5% had at least one injury in the past 12 months, but injury details were excluded. This study's aim was to report these injury details and their associations with BMI, menstrual status and eating disorders of the cohort.

Methods

Online survey was emailed to competitive female climbers recruited through the IFSC database between June and August 2021. Data was analyzed using Mann-Whitney U, χ² and logistic regression.

Results

229 registered IFSC climbers opened the questionnaire and 114 (49.7%) provided valid responses. Respondents (mean ± SD; age = 22.9 ± 5 year) represented 30 different countries and more than half (53.5%, n = 61) reported an injury in the prior 12 months with the majority in shoulders (37.7%, n = 23) and fingers (34.4%, n = 21). Injury prevalence in climbers with amenorrhea was 55.6% (n = 10). BMI was not a significant predictor of injury risk (OR = 1.082, 95% CI: 0.89, 1.3; p = 0.440) while accounting for current ED over the past 12 months. However, the odds ratio for having an injury was doubled for those with an ED (OR = 2.129, 95% CI: 0.905, 5.010; p = 0.08).

Conclusion

With over half reporting recent injuries (<12 months) mostly to shoulders and fingers, development of new strategies for injury prevention in competitive female climbers are warranted. In addition, climbers with disordered eating behaviors and/or menstrual disturbances might be more prone to injury. More research in this population is required. Suitable screening to prevent these health issues and proper monitoring of these athletes are paramount to long-term athlete success.