New Cosmetic Formulation for the Treatment of Mild to Moderate Infantile Atopic Dermatitis

A Review of Moisturizing Additives for Atopic Dermatitis

Atopic dermatitis, the most common form of eczema, is a chronic, relapsing inflammatory skin condition that occurs with dry skin, persistent itching, and scaly lesions. This debilitating condition significantly compromises the patient’s quality of life due to the intractable itching and other associated factors such as disfigurement, sleeping disturbances, and social stigmatization from the visible lesions. The treatment mainstay of atopic dermatitis involves applying topical glucocorticosteroids and calcineurin inhibitors, combined with regular use of moisturizers. However, conventional treatments possess a certain degree of adverse effects, which raised concerns among the patients resulting in non-adherence to treatment. Hence, the modern use of moisturizers to improve barrier repair and function is of great value. One of the approaches includes incorporating bioactive ingredients with clinically proven therapeutic benefits into dermocosmetics emollient. The current evidence suggests that these dermocosmetics emollients aid in the improvement of the skin barrier and alleviate inflammation, pruritus and xerosis. We carried out a critical and comprehensive narrative review of the literature. Studies and trials focusing on moisturizers that include phytochemicals, natural moisturizing factors, essential fatty acids, endocannabinoids, and antioxidants were identified by searching electronic databases (PubMed and MEDLINE). We introduce the current knowledge on the roles of moisturizers in alleviating symptoms of atopic dermatitis. We then further summarize the science and rationale of the active ingredients in dermocosmetics and medical device emollients for treating atopic dermatitis. Finally, we highlight the limitations of the current evidence and future perspectives of cosmeceutical research on atopic dermatitis.

Efficacy of Nonprescription Moisturizers for Atopic Dermatitis: An Updated Review of Clinical Evidence

Twice-daily moisturization is recommended by international guidelines as the bedrock of the management of atopic dermatitis (AD). Moisturizers should be selected based on proven clinical effectiveness in improving the skin barrier and improving the symptoms of AD. We searched the PubMed database for clinical trials assessing daily moisturization for the treatment of AD published between 2006 and 2019. Studies had to assess the efficacy of commercially available moisturizers using objective measures of corneometry, transepidermal water loss, or incidence of flare as endpoints, and treatments had to be currently available to patients. Clinical studies showed that moisturization (typically twice daily) significantly improved the skin barrier in adults and children with AD. Longer-term flare studies showed that daily moisturization reduced the incidence of flares and extended the time between flares. Proactive moisturization of infants at high risk of developing AD may reduce its manifestation. Therapeutic moisturizers for AD are specifically formulated with ingredients that target symptoms of AD, such as itch, inflammation, or compromised skin barrier. The US FDA requires that any moisturizer available in the USA and claiming to treat AD must contain colloidal oatmeal. Healthcare providers can maximize compliance and outcomes by educating patients on the benefits of liberally applying a therapeutic moisturizer twice daily to support the skin barrier and help reduce the incidence of flares. Specific recommendations should be for clinically tested moisturizers evaluated using objective, validated skin assessments.

Stepwise approach of development of dermo-cosmetic products in healthy and atopic dermatitis paediatric population: safety evaluation, clinical development and postmarket surveillance

Background/objectives

Paediatric skin, considered sensitive, and infant skin, more susceptible to percutaneous toxicity, require specially formulated cosmetic products. As recently shown, early use of emollients in infants “at risk” of developing atopic dermatitis has shown controversial results in reducing the incidence of atopic dermatitis. Development of dermo‐cosmetic products for this specific population should especially ensure tolerance and safety. In absence of good clinical practice guideline, we propose here a stepwise approach for the development of paediatric cosmetic skincare products.

Methods

Our stepwise methodology for cosmetics aimed at paediatrics, starts with in vitro assessment of product's ingredients safety, followed by preclinical and clinical evaluations of the final product, including sequentially: (1) Repeated Open Application Test (ROAT), (2) Human Repeated Insult Patch Test (HRIPT), (3) In‐use dermatological and ophthalmological tolerance studies (sequentially in 3a: healthy adults, 3b: healthy paediatric subjects and finally 3c: paediatric patients). We also describe the integrated cosmetovigilance–toxicological surveillance during the clinical development phase and postmarketing.

Results

As illustrated with one dermo‐cosmetic product intended to be used as a preventative/maintenance treatment for atopic dermatitis in paediatric population, we show that using this stepwise methodology to test a product reduces potential risks of irritation and contact dermatitis in this sensitive population.

Conclusion

Standardized ethical stepwise development approach is needed to ensure the commercialization of safe and well‐tolerated dermo‐cosmetics for paediatrics. The approach described here could potentially serve as guidance for evaluation of new paediatric cosmetic products.