Green Cosmetic Surfactant from Rice: Characterization and Application

Influence of the emulsifier on nanostructure and clinical application of liquid crystalline emulsions

Liquid crystals are appealing in pharmaceutical and cosmetic fields due to their unique structures that combine the properties of both liquid and solid states. Forming an emulsion into liquid crystals can be affected by a number of factors, including the emulsion composition and temperature. Changing the types and concentrations of surfactants could be another factor that affects liquid crystals. Currently, most liquid crystal research focuses on the nanostructure of liquid crystal systems without evaluating the efficacy of liquid crystals clinically. In this study, liquid crystalline emulsions made from camellia seed oil with four different surfactants (Olivem 1000, Polyaquol-2W, Nikkomulese LC, and Lecinol S-10 with Tween 80) were created. The liquid crystal emulsions were formulated in the form of oil-in-water (o/w) emulsions with Camellia oleifera seed oil serving as the main ingredient in the oil phase (10% w/w). All formulations exhibited liquid crystal characteristics with lamellar structures as determined by the polarized light microscopy and small-angle X-ray scattering with supporting data of the nanostructure from wide-angle X-ray scattering and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). They all showed good stability under normal (room temperature) and accelerated conditions (4 °C and 40 °C) in long-term storage (6 months). Using the reconstructed human epidermis as a skin model, all formulations did not cause skin irritation. In the clinical trial, all formulations were able to reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increase skin hydration immediately after application. This lasted at least 10 h. All formulations showed distinct Maltese crosses under the polarized light microscope with a positive result for liquid crystals in wide angle X-ray scattering (WAXS) and small angle X-ray scattering (SAXS) methods. Moreover, among all formulations tested, Formulation D, which contained Lecinol S-10 and Tween 80 as emulsifiers, showed the most robust interaction between the surfactant and water molecules in the lamellar structure under DSC. The formulation was stable in long-term normal and accelerated conditions. Above all, Formulation D, which was formulated with Lecinol S-10 with Tween 80, had the best clinical result, was nonirritating to the skin, and can be used as a cream base in the pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical sectors.

A review on the synthesis of bio-based surfactants using green chemistry principles

OBJECTIVES

With increasing awareness of the potential adverse impact of conventional surfactants on the environment and human health, there is mounting interest in the development of bio-based surfactants (which are deemed to be safer, more affordable, are in abundance, are biodegradable, biocompatible and possess scalability, mildness and performance in formulation) in personal care products.

METHOD

A comprehensive literature review around alkyl polyglucosides (APGs) and sucrose esters (SEs) as bio-based surfactants, through the lens of the 12 green chemistry principles was conducted. An overview of the use of bio-based surfactants in personal care products was also provided.

RESULTS

Bio-based surfactants are derived primarily from natural sources (i.e. both the head and tail molecular group). One of the more common types of bio-based surfactants are those with carbohydrate head groups, where alkyl polyglucosides (APGs) and sucrose esters (SEs) lead this sub-category. As global regulations and user mandate for sustainability and safety increase, evidence to further support these bio-based surfactants as alternatives to their petrochemical counterparts is advantageous. Use of the green chemistry framework is a suitable way to do this. While many of the discussed principles are enforced industrially, others have only yet been applied at a laboratory scale or are not apparent in literature.

CONCLUSION

Many of the principles of green chemistry are currently used in the synthesis of APGs and SEs. These and other bio-based surfactants should, therefore, be considered suitable and sustainable alternatives to conventional surfactants. To further encourage the use of these novel surfactants, industry must make an effort to implement and improve the use of the remaining principles at a commercial level.

Red Raspberry Seed Oil Low Energy Nanoemulsions: Influence of Surfactants, Antioxidants, and Temperature on Oxidative Stability

The aim of this study was to assess and improve the oxidative stability of red raspberry seed oil−RO, a potential topical ingredient derived from food industry by-products, on its own and when incorporated in low energy nanoemulsion (NE). The RO’s oxidative stability was assessed at 5, 25, and 40 °C during one month of storage and expressed in: peroxide value, p-anisidine, and thiobarbituric reactive substances—TBARS value, while for NEs, lipid hydroperoxides and TBARS values were monitored. Both synthetic (butylated hydroxytoluene—BHT and ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid—EDTA), and natural (oregano essential oil—ORE and oak fruit extract—OAK) antioxidants were used. Pure RO and RO with BHT or ORE were stable at 5 °C and 25 °C, but at 40 °C BHT showed only moderate protection, while ORE was prooxidant. NEs prepared with new biodegradable polyglycerol esters-based surfactants, with droplet sizes of < 50 nm and narrow size distribution, showed improved physicochemical stability at room temperature, and especially at 40 °C, compared to NEs with polysorbate 80, which required the addition of antioxidants to preserve their stability. Natural antioxidants ORE and OAK were compatible with all NEs; therefore, their use is proposed as an effective alternative to synthetic antioxidants.

Green Synthesis Optimization of Glucose Palm Oleate and Its Potential Use as Natural Surfactant in Cosmetic Emulsion

This study aimed to optimize the green synthesis of glucose palm oleate catalyzed by Carica papaya Lipase (CPL) through transesterification in a solvent-free system. Palm olein was used as a fatty acid donor for transesterification reactant and was also employed as a reaction medium. Reaction optimization was performed by using response surface methodology (RSM). Seventeen synthesis conditions were generated by a Box–Behnken design and the products were further determined by ultra-performance liquid chromatography (UPLC). Fatty acid compositions of palm olein identified by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) found that oleic acid (51.77 ± 0.67%) and palmitic acid (37.22 ± 0.48%) were major components. The synthesis variable factors of 50 °C, 45 h reaction time, and 1400 U of CPL were predicted by the RSM to be optimum conditions and thus provided the highest glucose palm oleate of 0.3542 mmol/g. Conjugation between palm olein fatty acids and glucose via transesterification resulted in glucose palm oleate being obviously verified by UPLC, Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), and thin-layer chromatography (TLC) analyses. The synthesized sugar fatty acid ester revealed an HLB value of 6.20 represented by the lowest % creaming index (%CI) of 35.40 ± 3.21%. It also exhibited a critical micelle concentration (CMC) of 3.16 × 10−5 M. This study is the first report to reveal the transesterification of glucose and palm olein catalyzed by CPL in a system without using any solvent. Glucose palm oleate has been shown to be derived from an environmentally friendly synthesis process and would be promising as a potential alternative natural surfactant for cosmetic application.

Low energy nanoemulsions as carriers for essential oils in topical formulations for antioxidant skin protection

In this study several essential oils (EOs): basil - BA, lemon balm - LB and oregano - OR were incorporated into nanoemulsions (NEs) as prospective carriers for natural and sensitive bioactives. NEs were prepared via the phase inversion composition (PIC) method, which is an energy-efficient cold process. Physicochemical stability of NEs was confirmed by particle size distribution analysis, electrical conductivity and pH value measurements, as well as by optical microscopy observations. The type of EO and the surfactant and oil mix concentration were found to be crucial factors governing the NE properties and stability. Raman spectra of the EOs confirmed main active ingredients and provided detection of interactions with the nanocarrier, which is a novel application of this technique. The antioxidant activity towards DPPH radical in methanol was concentration-dependent with a similar trend for individual oils and oil-loaded NEs (OR> LB> BA). However, the ABTS test in an aqueous medium revealed notable change in the order of activity after EO nanonisation at higher EO concentrations. Overall, it was found that OR-NE was the most effective and stable system, since OR acted as a co-stabiliser in the NE formulation, and its remarkably high antioxidant activity was successfully preserved during 6 months of storage.

Bio-Surfactant Assisted Aqueous Exfoliation of High-Quality Few-Layered Graphene

Realizing the efficacy of the liquid-phase exfoliation technique to obtain a greater quantity of graphene, this study demonstrates a cost-effective technique of bio-surfactant-assisted liquid-phase exfoliation of few-layer graphene (FLG) with a low defect ratio. An ultrasonic bath without any toxic chemicals or chemical modification was employed to exfoliate the graphene at room temperature. Several state-of-the-art characterization techniques such as TEM, AFM, XRD UV-Vis, and Raman spectroscopy were used to confirm the presence of the graphene. The dispersion exhibits a typical Tyndall scattering to the red laser beam. After a 7-h sonication of the dispersion, followed by a centrifugation frequency of 500 rpm for half an hour, the graphene concentration was found to be 1.2 mg/mL. The concentration decreases monotonically with an increase in the frequency, as a higher frequency causes sedimentation of the larger flakes or removes the adsorbed surfactant molecules from the graphene structures that collapse the graphene sheets into the graphite. The presence of an amino acid head-group in the surfactant facilitated exfoliation in an aqueous solution at well below the critical micelle concentration (CMC) of the surfactant. The product demonstrates all characteristic features of an FLG system. The TEM and AFM image reveals large-area graphene with a wrinkle-free surface; these morphological properties are confirmed by XRD and Raman spectroscopy. This study suggests that a sonication-induced process with a biocompatible surfactant can produce a cheap, large-surface-area graphene system for a wide range of applications. Moreover, the use of a probe sonicator as an alternative to the bath-type sonicator, together with the demonstrated technique, may reduce the time needed, and leads to a manifold increase in the yield.

Polyglycerol Ester-Based Low Energy Nanoemulsions with Red Raspberry Seed Oil and Fruit Extracts: Formulation Development toward Effective In Vitro/In Vivo Bioperformance

This study focuses on the development of biocompatible oil-in-water (O/W) nanoemulsions based on polyglycerol esters, as promising carriers for natural actives: red raspberry seed oil—RO and hydro-glycolic fruit extracts from red raspberry—RE and French oak—FE. Nanoemulsions were obtained via phase inversion composition (PIC) method at room temperature by dilution of microemulsion phase, confirmed by visual appearance, percentage of transmittance, microscopic, rheological and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) investigations. The results have shown that the basic RO-loaded formulation could be further enriched with hydro-glycolic fruit extracts from red raspberry or French oak, while keeping a semi-transparent appearance due to the fine droplet size (Z-ave: 50 to 70 nm, PDI value ≤ 0.1). The highest antioxidant activity (~92% inhibition of the DPPH radical) was achieved in the formulation containing both lipophilic (RO) and hydrophilic antioxidants (FE), due to their synergistic effect. The nanoemulsion carrier significantly increased the selective cytotoxic effect of RO towards malignant melanoma (Fem-X) cells, compared to normal human keratinocytes (HaCaT). In vivo study on human volunteers showed satisfactory safety profiles and significant improvement in skin hydration during 2 h after application for all nanoemulsions. Therefore, polyglycerol ester-based nanoemulsions can be promoted as effective carriers for red raspberry seed oil and/or hydro-glycolic fruit extracts in topical formulations intended for skin protection and hydration.

Graphene Oxide Increases Corneal Permeation of Ciprofloxacin Hydrochloride from Oleogels: A Study with Cocoa Butter-Based Oleogels

In this work, oleogels of cocoa butter (CB), rice bran oil (RBO), and graphene oxide (GO) were prepared. The prepared oleogels were subjected to various characterization techniques such as bright-field microscopy, X-ray diffraction (XRD), crystallization kinetics, differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), and mechanical studies. The influence of increasing GO content on the in vitro drug release and ex vivo corneal permeation of the model drug (ciprofloxacin HCl-CPH) from the oleogels was also investigated. Bright-field micrographs showed that increment in GO content reduced the size of the globular particles of CB. XRD analysis revealed that CB was crystallized in its β' and β polymorphic forms in the oleogels, which was in agreement with thermal studies. The mechanical characterization demonstrated that the presence of GO improved the elastic nature and stress-bearing properties of the oleogels. Moreover, GO altered the crystallization kinetics of CB in the oleogels in a composition-dependent manner. The in vitro release of CPH from the oleogels occurred through either Fickian diffusion or fat network relaxation or a combination thereof. Furthermore, the inclusion of GO enhanced the ex vivo permeation of CPH molecules across the caprine cornea. Hence, we concluded that the prepared oleogels could be explored as potential delivery systems for ophthalmic applications.