Castanea sativa Bur: An Undervalued By-Product but a Promising Cosmetic Ingredient

Repurposing Castanea sativa Spiny Burr By-Products Extract as a Potentially Effective Anti-Inflammatory Agent for Novel Future Biotechnological Applications

The concept of a "circular bioeconomy" holds great promise for the health, cosmetic, and nutrition sectors by re-using Castanea sativa (Mill.) by-products. This sustainable resource is rich in bioactive secondary metabolites with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. By transforming these by-products into high-value products for human health, we can promote sustainable economic growth and reduce the environmental impact of traditional waste disposal, adding value to previously underutilized resources. In the present study, we investigated the antioxidant capacity, phytochemical composition, and in vitro antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity of C. sativa burr (CSB) aqueous extract. The spectrophotometric study revealed high total phenolic content (TPC) values with significant antioxidant and anti-radical properties. Using UPLC-MS/MS techniques, the phytochemical investigation identified 56 metabolites, confirming the presence of phenolic compounds in CSBs. In addition, CSBs significantly downregulated pro-inflammatory mediators in LPS-stimulated RAW 264.7 macrophage cells without significant cell toxicity. Lastly, in silico studies pinpointed three kinases from RAW 264.7 cells as binding partners with ellagic acid, the predominant compound found in our extract. These findings strongly advocate for the recycling and valorization of C. sativa by-products, challenging their conventional classification as mere "waste".

Biological Activity and Chemical Composition of Propolis Extracts with Potential Use in Vulvovaginal Candidiasis Management

Environmental sustainability is an increasing challenge in the pharmaceutical field, leading to the search for eco-friendly active ingredients. Among natural ingredients, propolis arises as an excellent alternative, being a complex substance with pharmacological properties. This work aims to explore the potential of propolis as a new pharmaceutical ingredient for the replacement of conventional vulvovaginal antifungals. Propolis extracts were obtained by Ultrasound-Assisted Extraction using different solvents (water, water/ethanol (50:50, v/v), and ethanol). Afterwards, the extracts were characterized regarding total phenolic content (TPC), antioxidant/antiradical activities, radical scavenging capacity, antifungal activity against strains of Candida species, and viability effect on two female genital cell lines. The aqueous extract achieved the best TPC result as well as the highest antioxidant/antiradical activities and ability to capture reactive oxygen species. A total of 38 phenolic compounds were identified and quantified by HPLC, among which ferulic acid, phloridzin and myricetin predominated. Regarding the anti-Candida spp. activity, the aqueous and the hydroalcoholic extracts achieved the best outcomes (with MIC values ranging between 128 and 512 μg/mL). The cell viability assays confirmed that the aqueous extract presented mild selectivity, while the hydroalcoholic and alcoholic extracts showed higher toxicities. These results attest that propolis has a deep potential for vulvovaginal candidiasis management, supporting its economic valorization.

Metabolomic profiling and quantification of polyphenols from leaves of seven Acacia species by UHPLC-QTOF-ESI-MS

The genus Acacia (Fabaceae) comprises >1350 species and has been used in traditional medicine as infusions and decoctions to treat wounds, sores, headaches, diarrhea, and cough. The leaf methanolic extracts of seven Acacia species growing in Egypt namely: Acacia saligna, Acacia seyal, Acacia xanthophloea, Acacia tortilis subsp. raddiana., Acacia tortilis, Acacia laeta, Acacia albida were analyzed using UPLC-QTOF-ESI-MS. A total of 37 polyphenols were identified and discussed in detail. They included phenolic acids, flavonoids, and procyanidins, among which sixteen polyphenols were identified in Acacia for the first time. Folin-ciocalteau assay and ferric reducing antioxidant power, cupric reducing antioxidant capacity, 2,20 -azino-bis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) cation radical and the scavenging capacity against 2,2-diphenyl-1- picrylhydrazyl radical were performed to investigate the total phenolic content and the antioxidant activity of the Acacia extracts, respectively. Furthermore, the absolute quantification of eighteen polyphenols common to most of the species was performed using UPLC-MS. It was evident that the differences in the chemical composition among the species accounted for the difference in antioxidant activity which was in line together with the total phenolic content.

The Potential of Mangifera indica L. Peel Extract to Be Revalued in Cosmetic Applications

The constant growth of the cosmetic industry, together with the scientific evidence of the beneficial properties of phytochemicals, has generated great interest in the incorporation of bioactive extracts in cosmetic formulations. This study aims to evaluate the bioactive potential of a mango peel extract for its incorporation into cosmetic formulations. For this purpose, several assays were conducted: phytochemical characterization; total phenolic content (TPC) and antioxidant potential; free-radical scavenging capacity; and skin aging-related enzyme inhibition. In addition, the extract was incorporated into a gel formulation, and a preliminary stability study was conducted where the accelerated (temperature ramp, centrifugation, and heating/cooling cycles) and long-term (storage in light and dark for three months) stability of the mango peel formulations were evaluated. The characterization results showed the annotation of 71 compounds, gallotannins being the most representative group. In addition, the mango peel extract was shown to be effective against the •NO radical with an IC50 of 7.5 mg/L and against the hyaluronidase and xanthine oxidase enzymes with IC50 of 27 mg/L and 2 mg/L, respectively. The formulations incorporating the extract were stable during the stability study. The results demonstrate that mango peel extract can be a by-product to be revalorized as a promising cosmetic ingredient.

New Perspectives on the Sustainable Employment of Chestnut Shells as Active Ingredient against Oral Mucositis: A First Screening

Oral mucositis (OM), a common side effect of oncological treatment, is an oral mucosal disorder characterized by painful ulcerations and increased risk of infection. The use of natural antioxidants to suppress the redox imbalance responsible for the OM condition has emerged as an interesting approach to prevent/treat OM. This study aims to explore the chestnut (Castana sativa) shells as potential active ingredient against OM. Therefore, chestnut shells were extracted at different temperatures (110-180 °C) by Subcritical Water Extraction (SWE), aiming to recover antioxidants. The extracts were also evaluated against microorganisms present in the oral cavity as well as on human oral cell lines (TR146 and HSC3). The highest phenolic content was obtained with the extraction temperature of 110 °C, exhibiting the best antioxidant/antiradical activities and scavenging efficiencies against HOCl (IC₅₀ = 4.47 μg/mL) and ROO^• (0.73 μmol TE/mg DW). High concentrations of phenolic acids (e.g., gallic and protocatechuic acids) and flavanoids (catechin, epicatechin and rutin) characterized the phenolic profile. The antimicrobial activity against several oral microorganisms present in the oral cavity during OM, such as Streptococcus, Staphylococcus, Enterococcus, and Escherichia, was demonstrated. Finally, the effects on HSC3 and TR146 cell lines revealed that the extract prepared at 110 °C had the lowest IC₅₀ (1325.03 and 468.15 µg/mL, respectively). This study highlights the potential effects of chestnut shells on OM.

Assessment of a Formulation Containing a Castanea sativa Shells Extract on Skin Face Parameters: In Vivo Evaluation

In the last years, the demand for new eco-friendly ingredients has increased on the cosmetic market. Consumers are more aware of sustainable principles and, simultaneously, more conscious regarding the skin aging process. Chestnut (Castanea sativa) shells are a food by-product produced in high quantities in Europe. This waste has been described as a rich source of phenolic compounds with skin biological effects, such as antioxidant, antiradical, and anti-inflammatory activities. Despite the huge number of assays reporting the richness of chestnut shell extracts in bioactive compounds as well as the development of cosmetic formulations containing these extracts, no in vivo assays have assessed their clinical efficacy in human volunteers. The aim of this study was to evaluate the effect on skin face parameters of a formulation containing a chestnut shell extract in human volunteers (n = 22) who applied the product twice per day, for 56 days. For that, biophysical techniques, including Corneometer®, Cutometer®, and PrimosPremium, were employed, allowing the quantification of skin hydration and firmness, as well as of wrinkles’ depth and volume and wrinkles’ skin roughness. The results demonstrated that the formulation led to a slight decrease in roughness and wrinkles’ depth, although no significant differences with respect to a placebo were observed. In addition, a clear improvement of skin hydration was achieved (t0 = 54.00 Arbitrary Units (A.U.) and t56 = 58.62 A.U.). In contrast to the placebo, the active formulation increased skin firmness up to 31.76% in 50.00% of the volunteers, but without significant differences with respect to the placebo, probably due to the short period of treatment. A long-term use of the product is recommended to possibly observe significant differences in all parameters.

Valorization of Juglans regia Leaves as Cosmeceutical Ingredients: Bioactivity Evaluation and Final Formulation Development

The cosmetic industry is constantly searching for bioactive ingredients, namely, those obtained from natural sources with environmentally friendly connotations and less toxic effects. A previous study of our research group optimized the extraction of phenolic compounds from Juglans regia by heat-assisted extraction. Due to its richness in different phenolic compounds, the present work aimed to develop a formulation containing J. regia leaf extract. The extract’s antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, wound healing, cytotoxicity, and photostability properties were evaluated. The extract was then incorporated into an O/W base cream, followed by characterization of the final formulation in terms of its antioxidant properties, phenolic composition, and stability over time and at different storage conditions. The most abundant compounds in the hydroethanolic extract were 3-O-caffeoylquinic acid (18.30 ± 0.04 mg/g), quercetin-O-pentoside (9.64 ± 0.06 mg/g), and quercetin 3-O-glucoside (6.70 ± 0.19 mg/g). Besides those, the extract presented antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, wound closure, and antibacterial effects against several skin pathogens. In addition, HaCaT cell viability was maintained up to 98% at 400 µg/mL. Within Proteus vulgaris-infected HaCaT cells, the extract also presented an over 40% bacterial mortality rate at its nontoxic concentration (200 µg/mL). After incorporating the extract, the obtained formulation presented a good physicochemical profile over time and at different storage conditions while also maintaining its antioxidant effect; as such, it can be considered stable for topical application. Future work to evaluate its performance in terms of skin permeation and detailed toxicological studies with a focus on regulatory requirements, involving skin irritation, eye irritation, genotoxicity, photo-irritation, and dermal absorption, should be conducted, as the prepared formulation demonstrated relevant properties that deserve to be further explored.

Development, Characterization, and Clinical Investigation of a New Topical Emulsion System Containing a Castanea sativa Spiny Burs Active Extract

The study focused on the development and characterization of an O/W emulsion for skincare containing Castanea sativa spiny burs extract (CSE) as functional agent. The emulsion was stable and had suitable physicochemical and technological properties for dermal application and CSE showed no cytotoxicity in spontaneously immortalized keratinocytes (HaCaT) at active concentrations. A single-blind, placebo-controlled, monocentric study was designed to evaluate the skin tolerability and the skin performance of the CSE-loaded emulsion on healthy human volunteers. An improvement was observed in skin biomechanical properties such as hydration, skin elasticity and a reduction in the periorbital wrinkles in 30 days without altering the skin barrier function, sebum, pH, and erythema values. A significant skin moisturizing effect was detected while the skin barrier function was preserved. The selected natural ingredient combined with the designed formulation and the optimized preparation method has led to a final product that satisfies the physico-chemical and technological requirements underlying the safety of use and the formulative stability over time. With no negative skin reactions and highly significant effects on skin elasticity, wrinkles, and moisturization, the CSE-based emulsion achieved very satisfying outcomes representing a promising functional formulation for skin care.

Characterization and Stability of a Formulation Containing Antioxidants-Enriched Castanea sativa Shells Extract

The cosmetic industry is a field on rise where the search for novel antioxidant ingredients, preferably from natural matrixes, became a new challenge. The reuse of Castanea sativa shells as a source of phytochemicals with pro-healthy effects in skin care products may be a valuable alternative to valorize this underexploited agro-industrial by-product. A previous study of our research group demonstrated the antioxidant properties of chestnut shells extract obtained by ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE), as well as its safeness on skin cell lines, namely keratinocytes and fibroblasts. Based on the extract richness in antioxidants, a formulation containing C. sativa shells extract obtained by this environmentally friendly technology was successfully developed in the present study. The oil-in-water (O/W) cream incorporating the chestnut shells extract was further characterized regarding organoleptic and technological properties, namely color, pH, droplets size, and viscosity. A stability study over time was also accomplished. The results demonstrate that the formulation not only displayed pleasant organoleptic characteristics attractive to consumers but also a pH compatible with skin and a suitable viscosity for topical application. The stability study revealed minor changes to droplet size and color, without affecting the general stability of the formulation. In conclusion, this study emphasized the prominent benefits of chestnut shells extract as a novel ingredient for skin care formulations.

Actinidia arguta Pulp: Phytochemical Composition, Radical Scavenging Activity, and in Vitro Cells Effects

Hardy kiwifruit (Actinidia arguta) is a highly appreciated exotic fruit endowed with outstanding bioactive compounds. The present work proposes to characterize the pulp from A. arguta organic fruits, emphasizing its radicals scavenging capacity and effects on intestinal cells (Caco-2 and HT29-MTX). The physicochemical properties and phenolic profile were also screened. The total phenolic and flavonoid contents (TPC and TFC, respectively) of pulp were 12.21 mg GAE/g on dry weight (DW) and 5.92 mg CE/g DW, respectively. A high antioxidant activity was observed (FRAP: 151.41 μmol FSE/g DW; DPPH: 12.17 mg TE/g DW). Furthermore, the pulp did not induce a toxic effect on Caco-2 and HT29-MTX cells viability up to 1000 μg/mL. Regarding in vitro scavenging capacity, the pulp revealed the highest scavenging power against NO^. (IC₅₀ =3.45 μg/mL) and HOCl (IC₅₀ =12.77 μg/mL). These results emphasize the richness of A. arguta fruit pulp to be used in different food products.

Plant Secondary Metabolites: An Opportunity for Circular Economy

Moving toward a more sustainable development, a pivotal role is played by circular economy and a smarter waste management. Industrial wastes from plants offer a wide spectrum of possibilities for their valorization, still being enriched in high added-value molecules, such as secondary metabolites (SMs). The current review provides an overview of the most common SM classes (chemical structures, classification, biological activities) present in different plant waste/by-products and their potential use in various fields. A bibliographic survey was carried out, taking into account 99 research articles (from 2006 to 2020), summarizing all the information about waste type, its plant source, industrial sector of provenience, contained SMs, reported bioactivities, and proposals for its valorization. This survey highlighted that a great deal of the current publications are focused on the exploitation of plant wastes in human healthcare and food (including cosmetic, pharmaceutical, nutraceutical and food additives). However, as summarized in this review, plant SMs also possess an enormous potential for further uses. Accordingly, an increasing number of investigations on neglected plant matrices and their use in areas such as veterinary science or agriculture are expected, considering also the need to implement "greener" practices in the latter sector.

Vine-Canes as a Source of Value-Added Compounds for Cosmetic Formulations

The majority of works about vine-canes are focused on the evaluation of their chemical composition and antioxidant potential. To the best of our knowledge, the possible applications of produced extracts in cosmetic formulations have never been explored. The aim of the present study was to evaluate the antioxidant properties of vine-canes subcritical water extracts for use as active ingredients in the cosmetic industry. For that, the phenolic content and antioxidant activity of six vine-cane varieties, namely Alvarinho and Loureiro from the Minho region and Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz (TR) from both the Douro and Dão regions, were evaluated through spectrophotometric and chromatographic methods. All extracts presented similar antioxidant activity and the highest phenolic content was reported for TR variety from the Douro region (33.7 ± 1.9 mg GAE/g dw). The capacity of vine-cane extracts to capture reactive oxygen species superoxide (O₂^-) was also studied, with the highest IC₅₀ value being obtained for Loureiro variety (56.68 ± 2.60 µg/mL). Furthermore, no adverse effects on HaCaT and HFF-1 dermal cell lines in concentrations below 100 and 1000 µg/mL, respectively, were determined. Finally, Loureiro vine-cane extract was incorporated into a topical formulation, and physical and microbiological properties were within expected values, demonstrating that vine-canes extracts can be successfully incorporated in cosmetic products.

Green-Sustainable Recovery of Phenolic and Antioxidant Compounds from Industrial Chestnut Shells Using Ultrasound-Assisted Extraction: Optimization and Evaluation of Biological Activities In Vitro

Chestnut processing industry generates large amounts of by-products, including leaves, burs and shells that are a source of bioactive compounds. The purpose of this study was to establish an ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) of phenolic and antioxidant compounds from industrial chestnut shells. A central composite design (CCD) was conducted to analyze the effects of time (4–46 min) and temperature (34–76 °C) in the antioxidant activity (2,2′-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid (ABTS), 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), and ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP)) and total phenolic compounds (TPC) of chestnut shells extracts. The optimal extraction conditions were obtained at 70 °C for 40 min. The optimal extract was characterized regarding phenolic profile, radical scavenging capacity, and effects on intestinal and dermal cell lines. The optimal extract revealed high amounts of ellagic acid (40.4 µg/mg dw), followed by caffeic acid derivative (15.4 µg/mg dw) and epigallocatechin (15.3 µg/mg dw). Indeed, the extract exhibited the highest scavenging efficiencies against NO● (IC₅₀ = 0.1 µg/mL) and HOCl (IC₅₀ = 0.7 µg/mL) and did not conducted to a decrease on HaCaT and HFF-1 viability up to 100 μg/mL. Oppositely, a decrease on Caco-2 and HT29-MTX viability was observed. This study suggests that UAE could be a sustainable option to valorize chestnut shells as raw material for different industries.