Petroleum jelly: A comprehensive review of its history, uses, and safety

Petrolatum, also known as petroleum jelly, is a widely used topical agent, with a variety of uses in dermatology. Despite its popularity, many myths surround this ubiquitous dermatologic staple. This review details the history of petrolatum and how it is manufactured as well as how its biologic properties make it a great moisturizer. Additionally, data on its potential for flammability, allergenicity, and comedogenicity are detailed, dispelling misconceptions about petrolatum use around oxygen and as a cause of acne. The uses and benefits of petrolatum in dermatology are wide-ranging-a patch test instrument, a vehicle for medicated ointments, and a wound care essential. Given its ubiquitous presence, it is important for dermatologists to understand the history, safety profile, and myths surrounding this humble skincare staple.

A comparison between silicone free and silicone-based emulsions: technological features and in vivo evaluation

Objective

Nowadays, the use of silicones in cosmetic formulation is still controversial, given that “natural” or “biodegradable” components are preferred. Often, the exclusion and/or the discrimination of these excipients from cosmetic field are unmotivated because all things cannot be painted with the same brush. Hence, we want to bring to light and underline the advantages of including silicones in cosmetic emulsions, refuting and debunking some myths related to their use.

Methods

Silicone‐free and silicone‐based emulsions were obtained within an easy homogenization process. Droplet size distribution was assessed by laser diffraction particle size analyser Mastersizer 2000™, and by optical microscopy. The long‐time stability profiles were investigated thanks to the optical analyser Turbiscan® Lab Expert. Diffusing wave spectroscopy (DWS) by Rheolaser Master™ and frequency sweep measurements by Kinexus® Pro Rotational Rheometer were carried out to assess a full rheological characterization. In vivo studies were carried out by the evaluation of Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) over time on healthy human volunteers. A skin feeling rating was collected from the same volunteers by questionnaire.

Results

From size distribution analysis, a better coherence of data appeared for silicone‐based emulsion, as the size of the droplets was kept unchanged after 1 month, as well as the uniformity parameter. Morphological investigation confirmed a homogenous droplet distribution for both samples. Silicones enhanced the viscosity, compactness and strength of the cream, providing a suitable stability profile both at room temperature and when heated at 40°C. The solid‐like viscoelastic behaviour was assessed in the presence of dynamic oscillatory stresses. The monitoring of TEWL over time demonstrated non‐occlusive properties of emulsions containing silicones, the values of which were comparable to the negative control. Silicone‐based emulsions gained higher scores from the volunteers in silkiness, freshness and softness features, while lower scores were obtained in greasiness compared to silicone‐free emulsions. No cases of irritation were recorded by the candidates.

Conclusion

The presence of specific silicones inside a cosmetic product improved its technological characteristics. The rheological identity and the stability feature showed the real suitability of prepared emulsion as a cosmetic product. Moreover, this study demonstrated that silicone‐based emulsions are safe for the skin and did not cause skin occlusion. Improved skin sensations are registered by potential consumers when silicones are included in the formulation.

Therapeutic application of microsponges based drug delivery system

Microsponges delivery system (MDS) is highly porous, cross-linked based polymeric systems, that activates in the presence of temperature, rubbing and pH. MDS offers wide range of advantage, like controlled drug release, site-specific action, stable over a broad range of pH, poor irritation, cost effective, improved patient compliance. They can be transformed into various dosage forms like creams, gels, and lotions. MDS based system are suitable for treatment of topical disorders like acne, psoriasis, dandruff, eczema, scleroderma, hair loss, skin cancer, and other dreadful diseases. MDS application for drug delivery is not limited to topical drug delivery but also explored for oral, parenteral and pulmonary drug delivery. Microsponges were studied for colon targeting of drugs and genes. Additionally, MDS has wide application for sunscreen, cosmetics, and over the counter (OTC) products. Furthermore, MDS does not actuate any irritation, genotoxicity, immunogenicity or cytotoxicity. Therefore, this review extensively highlights about microsponges, their advantages, key factors affecting the micro-sponges' characteristics, the therapeutic application of microsponges in topical disorders, cancer, as cosmetics, recent advances in MDS and addresses the associated challenges.

Neurocosmetics in Skincare—The Fascinating World of Skin–Brain Connection: A Review to Explore Ingredients, Commercial Products for Skin Aging, and Cosmetic Regulation

The “modern” cosmetology industry is focusing on research devoted to discovering novel neurocosmetic functional ingredients that could improve the interactions between the skin and the nervous system. Many cosmetic companies have started to formulate neurocosmetic products that exhibit their activity on the cutaneous nervous system by affecting the skin’s neuromediators through different mechanisms of action. This review aims to clarify the definition of neurocosmetics, and to describe the features of some functional ingredients and products available on the market, with a look at the regulatory aspect. The attention is devoted to neurocosmetic ingredients for combating skin stress, explaining the stress pathways, which are also correlated with skin aging. “Neuro-relaxing” anti-aging ingredients derived from plant extracts and neurocosmetic strategies to combat inflammatory responses related to skin stress are presented. Afterwards, the molecular basis of sensitive skin and the suitable neurocosmetic ingredients to improve this problem are discussed. With the aim of presenting the major application of Botox-like ingredients as the first neurocosmetics on the market, skin aging is also introduced, and its theory is presented. To confirm the efficacy of the cosmetic products on the market, the concept of cosmetic claims is discussed.