Preparation and Characterization of Callus Extract from Pyrus pyrifolia and Investigation of Its Effects on Skin Regeneration

Callus Derived from Petals of the Rosa hybrida Breeding Line 15R-12-2 as New Material Useful for Fragrance Production

Rose (Rosa hybrida) is a major flower crop worldwide and has long been loved for its variety of colors and scents. Roses are mainly used for gardening or cutting flowers and are also used as raw materials for perfumes, cosmetics, and food. Essential oils, which are extracted from the flowers of plants, including roses, have various scents, and the essential oil market has been growing steadily owing to the growing awareness of the benefits of natural and organic products. Therefore, it is necessary to develop a system that stably supplies raw materials with uniform ingredients in line with the continuous increase in demand. In this study, conditions for the efficient induction of callus were established from the petals of the rose breeding line 15R-12-2, which has a strong scent developed by the National Institute of Horticultural and Herbal Science, Rural Development Administration. The highest callus induction rate (65%) was observed when the petals of the fully open flower (FOF) were placed on the SH11DP medium so that the abaxial surface was in contact with the medium. In addition, the VOCs contained in the petals of 15R-12-2 and the petal-derived callus were analyzed by HS-SPME-GC-MS. Thirty components, including esters and alcohols, were detected in the petal-derived callus. Among them, 2-ethylhexan-1-ol, which showed 59.01% relative content when extracted with hexane as a solvent, was the same component as detected in petals. Therefore, petal-derived callus is expected to be of high industrial value and can be suggested as an alternative pathway to obtaining VOCs.

Extract of Bletilla formosana callus elevates cellular antioxidative activity via Nrf2/HO-1 signaling pathway and inhibits melanogenesis in zebrafish

BACKGROUND

Bletilla species are endangered terrestrial orchids used in natural skin care formulas in Asia for a long history. In order to explore the bioactivity potential of Bletilla species as a cosmetic ingredient in a sustainable resource manner, the callus of Bletilla formosana (Hayata) Schltr. was established and extracted by an eco-friendly supercritical fluid CO₂ extraction (SFE-CO₂) method. The intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activity and antioxidation-related gene expression of the callus extract were evaluated in both Hs68 fibroblast cells and HaCaT keratinocytes. The melanogenesis-inhibitory effect was investigated in B16F10 melanoma cells and in an in vivo zebrafish model.

RESULTS

The calli of B. formosana were propagated for 10-15 generations with a consistent yellow friable appearance and then subjected to SFE-CO₂ extraction to obtain a yellow pasty extract. Obvious intracellular ROS scavenging activity of the extract was detected in both Hs68 and HaCaT cells with 64.30 ± 8.27% and 32.50 ± 4.05% reduction at the concentration of 250 μg/mL. Moreover, marked expression levels of heme oxygenase-1 (HO-1) and (NAD(P)H) quinone oxidoreductase-1 (NQO1) genes were detected after 6-h and 24-h treatments. These results indicate the cellular antioxidative activity of B. formosana callus extract was probably activated via the nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (Nrf2)/HO-1 signaling pathway. Melanogenesis-inhibitory effect of the extract was observed in α-MSH stimuli-inducing B16F10 cells with 28.46% inhibition of intracellular melanin content at the concentration of 50 μg/ml. The effect was confirmed with in vivo zebrafish embryos that showed a relative pigmentation density of 80.27 ± 7.98% at the concentration of 100 μg/mL without toxicity.

CONCLUSION

Our results shed light on a sustainable utilization of Bletilla species as a potential ingredient for skin.

Biotechnological Approaches to Producing Natural Antioxidants: Anti-Ageing and Skin Longevity Prospects

Plants are the main source of bioactive compounds that can be used for the formulation of cosmetic products. Plant extracts have numerous proven health benefits, among which are anti-ageing and skin-care properties. However, with the increased demand for plant-derived cosmetic products, there is a crucial prerequisite for establishing alternative approaches to conventional methods to ensure sufficient biomass for sustainable production. Plant tissue culture techniques, such as in vitro root cultures, micropropagation, or callogenesis, offer the possibility to produce considerable amounts of bioactive compounds independent of external factors that may influence their production. This production can also be significantly increased with the implementation of other biotechnological approaches such as elicitation, metabolic engineering, precursor and/or nutrient feeding, immobilization, and permeabilization. This work aimed to evaluate the potential of biotechnological tools for producing bioactive compounds, with a focus on bioactive compounds with anti-ageing properties, which can be used for the development of green-label cosmeceutical products. In addition, some examples demonstrating the use of plant tissue culture techniques to produce high-value bioactive ingredients for cosmeceutical applications are also addressed, showing the importance of these tools and approaches for the sustainable production of plant-derived cosmetic products.

Enhanced Extraction Efficiency of Flavonoids from Pyrus ussuriensis Leaves with Deep Eutectic Solvents

In this study, deep eutectic solvents (DESs) were synthesized using different ratios of choline chloride (CC) and dicarboxylic acids, and their eutectic temperatures were determined. The DES synthesized using CC and glutaric acid (GA), which showed a higher extraction efficiency than conventional solvents, was used for the extraction of flavonoid components from Pyrus ussuriensis leaves (PUL), and the extraction efficiency was evaluated using the response surface methodology. The flavonoid components rutin, hyperoside, and isoquercitrin were identified through high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC), equipped with a Waters 2996 PDA detector, and HPLC mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS) analyses. The optimum extraction was achieved at a temperature of 30 °C using DES in a concentration of 30.85 wt.% at a stirring speed of 1113 rpm and an extraction time of 1 h. The corresponding flavonoid content was 217.56 μg/mL. The results were verified by performing three reproducibility experiments, and a high significance, with a confidence range of 95%, was achieved. In addition, the PUL extracts exhibited appreciable antioxidant activity. The results showed that the extraction process using the DES based on CC and GA in a 1:1 molar ratio could effectively improve the yield of flavonoids from PUL.

Effects of Tiarella polyphylla D. Don Callus Extract on Photoaging in Human Foreskin Fibroblasts Hs68 Cells

Ultraviolet (UV)-irradiation causes an overproduction of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and collagen (COL) degradation causing skin sunburn, inflammation, or photoaging in human. In this study, we prepared callus from Tiarella polyphylla D. Don ( T. polyphylla) stem and its phytochemical profiles were analyzed using HPLC-MWD. The effects of T. polyphylla callus extract evaluated against on UVB-induced damage in human foreskin fibroblast (Hs68). Hs68 was exposed to UVB in the presence or absence of T. polyphylla callus extract at concentrations of 100 and 250 µg/mL. Cell damage caused by UVB was inhibited by T. polyphylla callus extract, which was tested by cell viability and caspase 3 activity in Hs68 cells. Further experiment revealed that T. polyphylla extract suppressed the level of MMP-1, but increased the level of type I procollagen. In addition, T. polyhylla callus extract inhibited UVB-mediated COL (-1 and -3) protein degradation and MMP (-1, 2, and -3) overexpression in Hs68. These results suggest that T. polyphylla callus extract has considerable potential as a cosmetic ingredient with anti-aging effects.

Plant In Vitro Systems as a Sustainable Source of Active Ingredients for Cosmeceutical Application

Cosmeceuticals are hybrids between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals which are being designed for a dual purpose: (1) To provide desired esthetical effects and (2) simultaneously treat dermatological conditions. The increased demand for natural remedies and the trends to use natural and safe ingredients resulted in intensive cultivation of medicinal plants. However, in many cases the whole process of plant cultivation, complex extraction procedure, and purification of the targeted molecules are not economically feasible. Therefore, the desired production of natural cosmetic products in sustainable and controllable fashion in the last years led to the intensive utilization of plant cell culture technology. The present review aims to highlight examples of biosynthesis of active ingredients derived through plant in vitro systems with potential cosmeceutical application. The exploitation of different type of extracts used in a possible cosmeceutical formulation, as well as, their activity tested in in vitro/in vivo models is thoroughly discussed. Furthermore, opportunities to manipulate the biosynthetic pathway, hence engineering the biosynthesis of some secondary metabolites, such as anthocyanins, have been highlighted.