High Performance Conditioning Shampoo with Hyaluronic Acid and Sustainable Surfactants

Transparent silicone-free shampoo containing proteins with strong hair conditioning properties

OBJECTIVE

With the constant upgrading of healthcare concepts, silicone-free hair products have attracted more attention among consumers. In the present study, transparent silicone-free shampoo containing proteins was successfully fabricated by mixing mild non-sulphate surfactants, compound cationic conditioners, natural silicone oil substitutes, protein conditioners, thickeners, and other auxiliary ingredients. The effects of the type of surfactants, hair conditioners and thickeners, the type and content of proteins, and the mass ratio of compound proteins on the hair foaming performance, hair grooming performance, and penetration performance were investigated.

METHODS

The basic formulation framework for transparent silicone-free shampoo was established at first. Then, various hydrolyzed proteins were further added to the basic formulation in the form of single use or compound use to prepare transparent silicone-free shampoo containing different proteins. The morphology of hair samples and penetration of protein in hair were evaluated with a scanning electron microscope and laser confocal fluorescence microscopy, respectively. And the hair grooming performance was also determined by a dynamic combing tester.

RESULTS

The compound proteins of Croquat WKP PE-LQ-WD and Gluadin® Kera-PLM with mass ratios of 1:9 and 1:1 at 2 wt% total protein content added to the silicone-free shampoo brought a higher contact angle and a lower frictional coefficient than commercial silicone-free shampoo without proteins. In addition, the compound proteins also have the dual effect of adsorbing the hair surface and penetrating deep into the interior of the hair.

CONCLUSION

The combination of cationic modified hydrolyzed protein (e.g., Croquat WKP PE-LQ-WD) and hydrolyzed protein with low molecular weight (e.g., Gluadin® Kera-P LM) at an appropriate mass ratio exhibited a strong synergistic effect on hair conditioning properties. It could provide a significant reference for developing silicone-free hair products with more benefits.

Hyaluronic Acid-Extraction Methods, Sources and Applications

In this review, a compilation of articles in databases on the extraction methods and applications of hyaluronic acid (HA) was carried out. HA is a highly hydrated component of different tissues, including connective, epithelial, and neural. It is an anionic, linear glycosaminoglycan (GAG) primarily found in the native extracellular matrix (ECM) of soft connective tissues. Included in the review were studies on the extraction methods (chemical, enzymatical, combined) of HA, describing advantages and disadvantages as well as news methods of extraction. The applications of HA in food are addressed, including oral supplementation, biomaterials, medical research, and pharmaceutical and cosmetic industry applications. Subsequently, we included a section related to the structure and penetration routes of the skin, with emphasis on the benefits of systems for transdermal drug delivery nanocarriers as promoters of percutaneous absorption. Finally, the future trends on the applications of HA were included. This final section contains the effects before, during, and after the application of HA-based products.

Dilution-Induced Deposition of Concentrated Binary Mixtures of Cationic Polysaccharides and Surfactants

This work investigates the effect of dilution on the phase separation process of binary charged polysaccharide-surfactant mixtures formed by two cationic polysaccharides and up to four surfactants of different nature (anionic, zwitterionic, and neutral), as well as the potential impact of dilution-induced phase separation on the formation of conditioning deposits on charged surfaces, mimicking the negative charge and wettability of damaged hair fibers. The results obtained showed that the dilution behavior of model washing formulations (concentrated polysaccharide-surfactant mixtures) cannot be described in terms of a classical complex precipitation framework, as phase separation phenomena occur even when the aggregates are far from the equilibrium phase separation composition. Therefore, dilution-enhanced deposition cannot be predicted in terms of the worsening of colloidal stability due to the charge neutralization phenomena, as common phase separation and, hence, enhanced deposition occurs even for highly charged complexes.

On Hair Care Physicochemistry: From Structure and Degradation to Novel Biobased Conditioning Agents

Hair is constantly exposed to various adverse external stimuli, such as mechanical or thermal factors, that may cause damage or cause it to lose its shine and smooth appearance. These undesirable effects can be minimized by using hair conditioners, which repair the hair and restore the smooth effect desired by the consumer. Some of the currently used conditioning agents present low biodegradability and high toxicity to aquatic organisms. Consumers are also becoming more aware of environmental issues and shifting their preferences toward natural-based products. Therefore, developing novel, sustainable, natural-based derivatives that can act as conditioning agents in hair care products and thus compete with the traditional systems obtained from non-renewable sources is highly appealing. This paper presents the key physicochemical aspects of the hair conditioning process, including hair structure and degradation, and reviews some of the new alternative conditioning agents obtained from natural resources.

Study of the Dilution-Induced Deposition of Concentrated Mixtures of Polyelectrolytes and Surfactants

Mixtures of polyelectrolytes and surfactants are commonly used in many technological applications where the challenge is to provide well-defined modifications of the surface properties, as is the case of washing formulations in cosmetics. However, if contemporary experimental and theoretical methods can provide insights on their behavior in concentrated formulations, less is known on their behavior under practical use conditions, e.g., under dilution and vectorization of deposits. This makes it difficult to make predictions for specific performance, as, for example, good hair manageability after a shampoo or a comfortable sensorial appreciation after a skin cleanser. This is especially important when considering the formulation of new, more eco-friendly formulations. In this work, a detailed study of the phase separation process induced by dilution is described, as well as the impact on the deposition of conditioning material on negatively charged surfaces. In order to gain a more detailed physical insight, several polyelectrolyte–surfactant pairs, formed by two different polymers and five surfactants that, although non-natural or eco-friendly, can be considered as models of classical formulations, have been studied. The results evidenced that upon dilution the behavior, and hence its deposition onto the surface, cannot be predicted in terms of the behavior of simpler pseudo-binary (mixtures of a polymer and a surfactant) or pseudo-ternary mixtures (two polymers and a surfactant). In many cases, phase separation was observed for concentrations similar to those corresponding to the components in some technological formulations, whereas the latter appeared as monophasic systems. Therefore, it may be assumed that the behavior in multicomponent formulations is the result of a complex interplay of synergistic interactions between the different components that will require revisiting when new, more eco-sustainable ingredients are considered.