Understanding the Sensitive Skin Subject to Achieve a More Holistic Diagnosis

Genipa americana L.: A New Phytochemical for White Hair Coloring

This work describes a new hair dyeing methodology using a chemical reaction between geniposide, an iridoid glycoside extracted from the fruit of Genipa americana (geniposide extract, GE) and the amine group of hair keratin. The influence of reaction conditions (pH, temperature, and extract concentration) on the staining of hair fibers, color development, fiber morphology, and mechanical hair properties of black and white human hair samples, was evaluated before and after GE dyeing treatment. Eye contact safety of GE was also studied using HET-CAM. The treatment of white hair fibers using GE at 20 mg mL-1 , temperature of 80 °C and pH 5.5 presented the greatest color change (ΔE=54.0). The higher pH influence was observed at pH 10.0 on white hair tresses (ΔE=6.8), using an GE concentration of 20 mg mL-1 and room temperature (25 °C). Treated samples showed marked changes on mechanical and morphological properties. The HET-CAM did not show any change, thus demonstrating that using GE is safe. In conclusion, the temperature and concentration of the extract were the variables that mostly influenced the color and hair damage. A new approach for hair dyeing was established where iridoids may potentially be useful as a natural hair dyeing.

Psychological Aspects of Sensitive Skin: A Vicious Cycle

Sensitive Skin Syndrome (SSS) has been the subject of intense research in the past several years. Recent reviews confirm that about 40% of the population report moderate or very sensitive skin, and an additional 30% report slightly sensitive skin. Although certain phenotypes are more susceptible, anyone can suffer from SSS and this condition can manifest in all anatomic sites. A wide variety of environmental and lifestyle factors can trigger SSS symptoms of itching, stinging, burning, pain, and tingling. In order to avoid such triggers, the SSS individuals often alter their behaviors and habits such as restricting their daily activities, and modifying the use of everyday products that non-sensitive individuals take for granted. In addition, there is an association between SSS and some common psychological problems. Sensitive skin symptoms such as itching, stinging, burning and pain can result in sleep disorders, fatigue, stress and anxiety. Conversely, lack of sleep and stress from external sources can make the SSS sufferer more prone to the symptoms. This becomes a vicious cycle that impacts consumers’ quality of life and well-being. We are beginning to understand the importance of the underlying causes that can impact skin conditions. However, in order to better understand the SSS individual, we need to also be aware of the psychological factors that can trigger and/or worsen this skin condition, as well as the psychological stresses the condition places on the individual.

Occurrence of Allergens in Cosmetics for Sensitive Skin

Sensitive skin is characterized by symptoms such as stinging and tingling in response to stimuli that usually do not cause unpleasant sensations. Epidemiological studies show that individuals with sensitive skin are more prone to developing skin allergies, although the link between both conditions is unknown. Aiming to evaluate the presence of allergens in facial-skin products for sensitive skin, a pool of 88 cosmetic products from international brands marketed in pharmacies and parapharmacies was analyzed. A list of allergens identified in product labels was compiled and grouped according to their function. Fragrances were the most common allergens, followed by skin-conditioning agents, surfactants, and preservatives. Fragrances presenting the highest use percentages were linalool, benzyl alcohol, geraniol, and citronellol. Overall, the majority of cosmetic formulations were absent of fragrance allergens, being present only in 7% of products. Other allergens were found in most products (95%). This finding should be interpreted with caution, since many of these compounds are rare sensitizers and studies demonstrating their risk for individuals with sensitive skin are lacking. With this study, useful information for health professionals is provided to support their advice and to help consumers choosing cosmetic products.