Melanogenesis and Melasma Treatment

Laser-mediated Solutions: Breaking Barriers in Transdermal Drug Delivery

Skin diseases pose challenges in treatment due to the skin's complex structure and protective functions. Topical drug delivery has emerged as a preferred method for treating these conditions, offering localized therapy with minimal systemic side effects. However, the skin's barrier properties frequently limit topical treatments' efficacy by preventing drug penetration into deeper skin layers. In recent years, laser-assisted drug delivery (LADD) has gained attention as a promising strategy to overcome these limitations. LADD involves using lasers to create microchannels in the skin, facilitating the deposition of drugs and enhancing their penetration into the target tissue. Several lasers, such as fractional CO2, have been tested to see how well they work at delivering drugs. Despite the promising outcomes demonstrated in preclinical and clinical studies, several challenges persist in implementing LADD, including limited penetration depth, potential tissue damage, and the cost of LADD systems. Furthermore, selecting appropriate laser parameters and drug formulations is crucial to ensuring optimal therapeutic outcomes. Nevertheless, LADD holds significant potential for improving treatment efficacy for various skin conditions, including skin cancers, scars, and dermatological disorders. Future research efforts should focus on optimizing LADD techniques, addressing safety concerns, and exploring novel drug formulations to maximize the therapeutic benefits of this innovative approach. With continued advancements in laser technology and pharmaceutical science, LADD has the potential to revolutionize the field of dermatology and enhance patient care.

Anti-Melanogenic Activity of Ethanolic Extract from Garcinia atroviridis Fruits Using In Vitro Experiments, Network Pharmacology, Molecular Docking, and Molecular Dynamics Simulation

Melanin, the pigment responsible for human skin color, increases susceptibility to UV radiation, leading to excessive melanin production and hyperpigmentation disorders. This study investigated the ethanolic extract of Garcinia atroviridis fruits for its phenolic and flavonoid contents, antioxidant activity, and impact on melanogenesis pathways using qRT-PCR and Western blot analysis. Utilizing network pharmacology, molecular docking, and dynamics simulations, researchers explored G. atroviridis fruit extract's active compounds, targets, and pharmacological effects on hyperpigmentation. G. atroviridis fruit extract exhibited antioxidant properties, scavenging DPPH• and ABTS•+ radicals radicals and chelating copper. It inhibited cellular tyrosinase activity and melanin content in stimulated B16F10 cells, downregulating TYR, TRP-1, phosphorylated CREB, CREB, and MITF proteins along with transcription levels of MITF, TYR, and TRP-2. LC-MS analysis identified thirty-three metabolites, with seventeen compounds selected for further investigation. Network pharmacology revealed 41 hyperpigmentation-associated genes and identified significant GO terms and KEGG pathways, including cancer-related pathways. Kaempferol-3-O-α-L-rhamnoside exhibited high binding affinity against MAPK3/ERK1, potentially regulating melanogenesis by inhibiting tyrosinase activity. Stable ligand-protein interactions in molecular dynamics simulations supported these findings. Overall, this study suggests that the ethanolic extract of G. atroviridis fruits possesses significant antioxidant, tyrosinase inhibitory, and anti-melanogenic properties mediated through key molecular targets and pathways.

Potent pigmentation inhibitory activity of incensole-enriched frankincense volatile oil-identification, efficacy and mechanism

BACKGROUND

Frankincense volatile oil (FVO) has long been considered a side product in pharmaceutical industry since frankincense of large molecular weight is the prime target. However, the volatile oil recycled in the extract process might contain a series of functional actives, serving as promising ingredients in the cosmetic field.

METHODS

Gas chromatography-mass spectrometer was utilized to determine the species and amount of active ingredients in FVO. Subsequently, zebrafish models were used to evaluate pigmentation inhibition, ROS elimination and neutrophil activation. In vitro DPPH test was also conducted to consolidate the anti-oxidation efficacy. Based on the test results, network pharmacology was incorporated, where GO and KEGG enrichment analyses were performed to discover the interrelations between active ingredients.

RESULTS

About 40 actives molecules were identified, including incensole, acetate incensole, and acetate incensole oxide. The FVO demonstrated great depigmentation activity by suppressing melanin synthesis, as well as providing free radical scavenging and anti-inflammation effect. In network pharmacology analysis, 192 intersected targets were identified. By enrichment analysis and network construction, a series of whitening signal pathways, and hub genes, containing STAT3，MAPK3，MAPK1 were identified.

CONCLUSION

The current study quantified the components of FVO, evaluated its efficacy in skin depigmentation, and give pioneering insights on the possible mechanism. The results confirmed that the FVO could serve as whitening agent in topical uses.

Platelet-Rich Plasma in Dermatology: New Insights on the Cellular Mechanism of Skin Repair and Regeneration

The skin's recognised functions may undergo physiological alterations due to ageing, manifesting as varying degrees of facial wrinkles, diminished tautness, density, and volume. Additionally, these functions can be disrupted (patho)physiologically through various physical and chemical injuries, including surgical trauma, accidents, or chronic conditions like ulcers associated with diabetes mellitus, venous insufficiency, or obesity. Advancements in therapeutic interventions that boost the skin's innate regenerative abilities could significantly enhance patient care protocols. The application of Platelet-Rich Plasma (PRP) is widely recognized for its aesthetic and functional benefits to the skin. Yet, the endorsement of PRP's advantages often borders on the dogmatic, with its efficacy commonly ascribed solely to the activation of fibroblasts by the factors contained within platelet granules. PRP therapy is a cornerstone of regenerative medicine which involves the autologous delivery of conditioned plasma enriched by platelets. This is achieved by centrifugation, removing erythrocytes while retaining platelets and their granules. Despite its widespread use, the precise sequences of cellular activation, the specific cellular players, and the molecular machinery that drive PRP-facilitated healing are still enigmatic. There is still a paucity of definitive and robust studies elucidating these mechanisms. In recent years, telocytes (TCs)-a unique dermal cell population-have shown promising potential for tissue regeneration in various organs, including the dermis. TCs' participation in neo-angiogenesis, akin to that attributed to PRP, and their role in tissue remodelling and repair processes within the interstitia of several organs (including the dermis), offer intriguing insights. Their potential to contribute to, or possibly orchestrate, the skin regeneration process following PRP treatment has elicited considerable interest. Therefore, pursuing a comprehensive understanding of the cellular and molecular mechanisms at work, particularly those involving TCs, their temporal involvement in structural recovery following injury, and the interconnected biological events in skin wound healing and regeneration represents a compelling field of study.

Catechol-mimicking transition-state analogues as non-oxidizable inhibitors of tyrosinases

Tyrosinases are copper-containing metalloenzymes involved in several processes in both mammals, insects, bacteria, fungi and plants. Their phenol oxidation properties are especially responsible for human melanogenesis, potentially leading to abnormal pigmentation, and for postharvest vegetable tissue browning. Thus, targeting tyrosinases attracts interest for applications both in dermocosmetic and agrofood fields. However, a large part of the literature about tyrosinase inhibitors is dedicated to the report of copper-interacting phenolic compounds, that are more likely alternative substrates leading to undesirable toxic quinones production. To circumvent this issue, the use of catechol-mimicking copper-chelating groups that are analogues of the tyrosinase oxidation transition state appears as a valuable strategy. Relying on several non-oxidizable pyridinone, pyrone or tropolone moieties, innovative inhibitors were developed, especially within the past decade, and the best reported analogues reached IC50 values in the nanomolar range. Herein, we review the design, the activity against several tyrosinases, and the proposed binding modes of reported catechol-mimicking, non-oxidizable molecules, in light of recent structural data.

Clinical Applications of Polypodium leucotomos (Fernblock®): An Update

Exposure to sun radiation leads to higher risk of sunburn, pigmentation, immunosuppression, photoaging and skin cancer. In addition to ultraviolet radiation (UVR), recent research indicates that infrared radiation (IR) and visible light (VIS) can play an important role in the pathogenesis of some of these processes. Detrimental effects associated with sun exposure are well known, but new studies have shown that DNA damage continues to occur long after exposure to solar radiation has ended. Regarding photoprotection strategies, natural substances are emerging for topical and oral photoprotection. In this sense, Fernblock^®, a standardized aqueous extract of the fern Polypodium Leucotomos (PLE), has been widely administered both topically and orally with a strong safety profile. Thus, this extract has been used extensively in clinical practice, including as a complement to photodynamic therapy (PDT) for treating actinic keratoses (AKs) and field cancerization. It has also been used to treat skin diseases such as photodermatoses, photoaggravated inflammatory conditions and pigmentary disorders. This review examines the most recent developments in the clinical application of Fernblock^® and assesses how newly investigated action mechanisms may influence its clinical use.

Quercetin 3-O-Galactoside Isolated from Limonium tetragonum Inhibits Melanogenesis by Regulating PKA/MITF Signaling and ERK Activation

Quercetin 3-O-galactoside (Q3G) is a common dietary flavanol that has been shown to possess several bioactivities, including anti-melanogenesis. However, how Q3G exerts its anti-melanogenic effect has not been studied. The current study, therefore aimed to investigate the anti-melanogenesis potential of Q3G and elucidate the underlying action mechanism in α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced hyperpigmentation model of B16F10 murine melanoma cells. Results showed that α-MSH stimulation significantly increased tyrosinase (TYR) and melanin production, which were significantly downregulated by Q3G treatment. The treatment with Q3G suppressed the transcriptional and protein expressions of melanogenesis-related enzymes TYR, tyrosinase related protein-1 (TRP-1), and TRP-2, along with the melanogenic transcription factor microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) in B16F10 cells. It was shown that Q3G downregulated MITF expression and suppressed its transcriptional activity by inhibiting the cAMP-dependent protein kinase A (PKA)-mediated activation of CREB and GSK3β. In addition, MAPK-regulated MITF activation signaling was also involved in the inhibition of melanin production by Q3G. The results suggest that the anti-melanogenic properties of Q3G rationalize further studies in vivo to confirm its action mechanism and consequent utilization as a cosmetic ingredient against hyperpigmentation.

A Novel multi-fruit acids formula design on molecular basis for skin brightening via a system biology approach

BACKGROUND

Fruit acids have long been recognized as highly effective actives with world-wide popularity, covering skin peeling, anti-acne, anti-wrinkle applications, and skin depigmentation.

AIMS

There are complicated interconnections between the fruit acid formula and skin pigmentation behaviors. However, the lack of systematic researches on multi-ingredient formula restricted our understanding on its mechanism. Therefore, it is of great necessity to study the interactions and cascades among components, potential gene targets, signaling pathways, and biological processes via a system biology approach.

METHODS

We used system biology, molecular fingerprint, and structural biology to calculate and collect target information of the functional formula. Gene Ontology (GO) enrichment analysis was further applied to study the biological processes and pathways of the formula, and a multi-level network model of "component - molecular target - signaling pathway - skin disease" was established. Besides, the zebrafish model was utilized to verify the formula.

RESULTS

We obtained 69 hub targets by constructing a protein-protein interaction (PPI) network based on the intersection between multi-fruit acids formula (mandelic acid, lactobionic acid, niacinamide, and hydroxytyrosol) and skin indications targets (whitening-sebum balance). In vitro zebrafish models, including pigmentation, antioxidant, and radiation protection models, showed that the current formula significantly alleviated pigmentation intensity and intracellular free radical content, thus proving the efficacy of skin brightening and UV irradiation protection.

CONCLUSIONS

This research uncovered the underlying mechanism of multi-fruit acids formula and predicted its function in skin brightening and UV irradiation prevention.

Bamboo Lignin Fractions with In Vitro Tyrosinase Inhibition Activity Downregulate Melanogenesis in B16F10 Cells via PKA/CREB Signaling Pathway

Cosmetic ingredients originating from natural resources have garnered considerable attention, and the demand for whitening ingredients is increasing, particularly in Asian countries. Lignin is a natural phenolic biopolymer significantly effective as a natural sunscreen, as its ultraviolet protection efficacy ranges from 250 to 400 nm. However, using different types of lignin as cosmetic ingredients is difficult owing to the heterogeneity of lignin and the lack of in vitro and in vivo safety and efficacy data. Thus, steam-exploded lignin (SEL) was prepared from bamboo, fractionated via successive organic solvent extraction, and sequentially fractionated using ethyl acetate, methanol, and acetone to investigate its potential as a natural whitening material. Gel permeation chromatography showed that the molecular weight of acetone-soluble and acetone-insoluble SEL fractions were the lowest and the highest, respectively. Monomer structures of the four lignin fractions were elucidated using 1H, 13C, and 2D heteronuclear single quantum coherence nuclear magnetic resonance and pyrolysis gas chromatography/mass spectrometry. The antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibition activities of the four fractions were compared. The methanol-soluble SEL fraction (SEL-F2) showed the highest antioxidant activity (except 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl scavenging activity), and the enzyme inhibition kinetics were confirmed. In this study, the expression pattern of the anti-melanogenic-related proteins by SEL-F2 was confirmed for the first time via the protein kinase A (PKA)/cAMP-response element-binding (CREB) protein signaling pathway in B16F10 melanoma cells. Thus, SEL may serve as a valuable cosmetic whitening ingredient.

Efficacy of Cysteamine and Methimazole in Treating Melasma A Comparative Narrative Review

Melasma is a chronic and acquired pigmentary condition that primarily affects women and undermines patient satisfaction and confidence. Melasma mostly affects females, accounting for 90% of all cases. It affects people of all races, particularly those with skin types IV and V who live in areas with lots of UV radiation. According to the studies, Melasma lesions are seen throughout the face in centrofacial, malar, and mandibular patterns. Melasma lesions on the forehead, cheeks, nose, upper lip, and/or chin are the most prevalent centrofacial pattern. Melasma lesions can also be detected along the periorbital area, especially in Asian people. Melasma is notably resistant to treatment, with many patients experiencing only temporary relief and relapses. Combining therapies that target numerous pathologic components, including photodamage, inflammation, aberrant vascularity, and abnormal pigmentation, generally results in the most dramatic therapeutic improvements. Treatments for dark circles include topical depigmenting medicines like hydroquinone, kojic acid, azelaic acid, and topical retinoic acid, and physical treatments such as chemical peels, surgical adjustments, and laser therapy. The objective of therapy should be to figure out what's causing the hyperpigmentation and what's contributing to it. This article provides an overview of melasma therapies and the efficacy of methimazole and cysteamine for melasma therapy.

The Relationship between the IC50 Values and the Apparent Inhibition Constant in the Study of Inhibitors of Tyrosinase Diphenolase Activity Helps Confirm the Mechanism of Inhibition

Tyrosinase is the enzyme involved in melanization and is also responsible for the browning of fruits and vegetables. Control of its activity can be carried out using inhibitors, which is interesting in terms of quantitatively understanding the action of these regulators. In the study of the inhibition of the diphenolase activity of tyrosinase, it is intriguing to know the strength and type of inhibition. The strength is indicated by the value of the inhibition constant(s), and the type can be, in a first approximation: competitive, non-competitive, uncompetitive and mixed. In this work, it is proposed to calculate the degree of inhibition (iD), varying the concentration of inhibitor to a fixed concentration of substrate, L-dopa (D). The non-linear regression adjustment of iD with respect to the initial inhibitor concentration [I]0 allows for the calculation of the inhibitor concentration necessary to inhibit the activity by 50%, at a given substrate concentration (IC₅₀), thus avoiding making interpolations between different values of iD. The analytical expression of the IC₅₀, for the different types of inhibition, are related to the apparent inhibition constant (KIapp). Therefore, this parameter can be used: (a) To classify a series of inhibitors of an enzyme by their power. Determining these values at a fixed substrate concentration, the lower IC₅₀, the more potent the inhibitor. (b) Checking an inhibitor for which the type and the inhibition constant have been determined (using the usual methods), must confirm the IC₅₀ value according to the corresponding analytical expression. (c) The type and strength of an inhibitor can be analysed from the study of the variation in iD and IC₅₀ with substrate concentration. The dependence of IC₅₀ on the substrate concentration allows us to distinguish between non-competitive inhibition (iD does not depend on [D]0) and the rest. In the case of competitive inhibition, this dependence of iD on [D]0 leads to an ambiguity between competitive inhibition and type 1 mixed inhibition. This is solved by adjusting the data to the possible equations; in the case of a competitive inhibitor, the calculation of KI1app is carried out from the IC₅₀ expression. The same occurs with uncompetitive inhibition and type 2 mixed inhibition. The representation of iD vs. n, with n=[D]0/KmD, allows us to distinguish between them. A hyperbolic iD vs. n representation that passes through the origin of coordinates is a characteristic of uncompetitive inhibition; the calculation of KI2app is immediate from the IC₅₀ value. In the case of mixed inhibitors, the values of the apparent inhibition constant of meta-tyrosinase (Em) and oxy-tyrosinase (Eox), KI1app and the apparent inhibition constant of metatyrosinase/Dopa complexes (EmD) and oxytyrosinase/Dopa (EoxD), KI2app are obtained from the dependence of iD vs. n, and the results obtained must comply with the IC₅₀ value.

Licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra, G. uralensis, and G. inflata) and Their Constituents as Active Cosmeceutical Ingredients

The interest in plant extracts and natural compounds in cosmetic formulations is growing. Natural products may significantly improve cosmetics performance since they have both cosmetic and therapeutic-like properties, known as cosmeceutical effects. Glycyrrhiza genus, belonging to the Leguminosae family, comprises more than 30 species, widely distributed worldwide. The rhizomes and roots are the most important medicinal parts currently used in pharmaceutical industries and in the production of functional foods and food supplements. In the last few years, the interest in their potential activities in cosmetic formulations has greatly increased. Glycyrrhiza spp. extracts are widely implemented in cosmetic products for their good whitening effect. The biological effects of Glycyrrhiza extracts are especially ascribable to the occurrence of specialized metabolites belonging to the flavonoid class. This review focuses on the botany and the chemistry of the main investigated Glycyrrhiza spp. (G. glabra, G. uralensis, and G. inflata) along with their cosmeceutical activities categorized as skin anti-aging, photoprotective, hair care, and anti-acne. It has been highlighted how, along with Glycyrrhiza extracts, three main flavonoids namely licochalcone A, glabridin, and dehydroglyasperin C are the most investigated compounds. It is noteworthy that other molecules from licorice show potential cosmeceutical effects. These data suggest further investigations to clarify their potential value for cosmetic industries.