Effect of Coffee Berry Extract on Anti-Aging for Skin and Hair—In Vitro Approach

Recent Advances in the Management of Rosacea through Natural Compounds

Rosacea is a chronic skin disorder that affects more than 5% of the world's population, with the number increasing every year. Moreover, studies show that one-third of those suffering from rosacea report a degree of depression and are less compliant with treatment. Despite being the subject of prolonged studies, the pathogenesis of rosacea remains controversial and elusive. Since most medications used for the management of this pathology have side effects or simply do not yield the necessary results, many patients lose trust in the treatment and drop it altogether. Thus, dermato-cosmetic products with natural ingredients are gaining more and more notoriety in front of synthetic ones, due to the multiple benefits and the reduced number and intensity of side effects. This review is a comprehensive up-to-date report of studies that managed to prove the beneficial effects of different botanicals that may be useful in the short and long-term management of rosacea-affected skin. Based on recent preclinical and clinical studies, this review describes the mechanisms of action of a large array of phytochemicals responsible for alleviating the clinical symptomatology of the disease. This is useful in further aiding and better comprehending the way plant-based products may help in managing this complex condition, paving the way for research in this area of study.

Caffeine-Containing Emulsion: Influence of the HLB and Mixing Proportions, the Oil's Chemical Composition, and the Existence of Caffeine on Emulsion Properties

This study employs a low-energy emulsification method to prepare caffeine-containing emulsions, denoted as Caf-EM. Three different oils, including coconut, sesame, and grape seed oils, are utilized along with the surfactants Span 80 and Tween 80. We investigate the influence of various factors, including (i) the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) and surfactant ratio, (ii) the chemical composition of the oils, and (iii) the presence of caffeine, on the stability and size of emulsions. The results indicate that the HLB value and surfactant ratio are the most crucial factors affecting the emulsions' stability. The most stable Caf-EM formulation is achieved by combining mixed surfactants of Span 80 and Tween 80 with an optimal HLB value of 6.4 at a concentration of 15% (S15 to 6.4) across all oil types. This specific ratio also leads to significantly smaller emulsion droplet sizes than other ratios and is the only ratio that produces stable emulsions even without caffeine (denoted as EM). Notably, formulation S15-6.4 additionally causes a phase inversion from oil-in-water (O/W) to water-in-oil (W/O). Furthermore, the presence of caffeine in the water phase contributes to the formation of smaller and more stable emulsions. The particle size of Caf-EM is approximately 1.5 times smaller than that of EM. Regarding the oil's chemical composition, while there is a discernible trend in emulsion droplet size (coconut oil > grape seed oil > sesame oil), the differences within this sequence are insignificant, suggesting that the oil's chemical composition does not have a pronounced effect.

Validating the Health Benefits of Coffee Berry Pulp Extracts in Mice with High-Fat Diet-Induced Obesity and Diabetes

The effects of coffee (Coffea arabica L.) berry pulp extracts (CBP extracts) on the improvement of diabetes, obesity, and non-alcoholic fatty liver disease (NAFLD) were evaluated using various in vitro antioxidant activity assays and through a high-fat diet-induced mild diabetic obese mouse model. After an 84-day oral administration of CBP extracts (400-100 mg/kg), bioactivities were evaluated. The in vitro analysis showed the highest DPPH● scavenging activity of 73.10 ± 4.27%, ABTS● scavenging activity of 41.18 ± 1.14%, and SOD activity of 56.24 ± 2.81%, at a CBP extract concentration of 1000 µg/mL. The in vivo analysis of the CBP extracts showed favorable and dose-dependent anti-obesity, anti-diabetic, NAFLD, nephropathy, and hyperlipidemia refinement effects through hepatic glucose enzyme activity, 5'-AMP-activated protein kinase (AMPK) up-regulation, antioxidant activity, lipid metabolism-related gene expression, and pancreatic lipid digestion enzyme modulatory activities. This study shows that an appropriate oral dosage of CBP extracts could function as a potent herbal formulation for a refinement agent or medicinal food ingredient to control type 2 diabetes and related complications.

Hair Growth Promotion and Anti-Hair Loss Effects of By-Products Arabica Coffee Pulp Extracts Using Supercritical Fluid Extraction

Coffee has been a common ingredient in many traditional hair loss remedies, but limited scientific evidence supports its use, particularly in coffee pulp. Androgenetic alopecia (AGA) is caused by androgens, inflammation, and oxidative stress. In the present study, supercritical fluid extraction (SFE) was used under various conditions to obtain six coffee pulp extracts. The SFE-4 extract, using 50% (v/v) ethanol as a co-solvent at conditions of 100 °C and 500 bars for 30 min, exhibited the highest phenolic, flavonoid, and caffeine contents. Additionally, the SFE-4 extract increased the migration and cell proliferation of HFDPCs (human hair follicle dermal papilla cells), which control hair cycle regulation, and had scavenging effects on ABTS and DPPH radicals. Additionally, the SFE-4 extract showed potassium ion channel opener activity in HFDPCs, as well as a stimulation effect on the enzyme matrix metalloproteinase-2 (MMP-2) (28.53 ± 1.08% of control), which may be related to the vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) gene upregulation. In human prostate cancer cells (DU-145) and HFDPC cells, the SFE-4 extract significantly decreased the expression of SRD5A1, SRD5A2, and SRD5A3, an essential pathway involved in AGA. Hair growth factor genes in the Wnt/-catenin (CTNNB1) and Sonic Hedgehog (SHH, SMO, and GLI1) pathways could be significantly activated by the SFE-4 extract. These results imply that employing SFE in coffee pulp extraction could help AGA treatment by preventing hair loss and promoting hair growth pathways. This would help small coffee producers gain economic empowerment and ensure the long-term sustainability of agricultural waste utilization.

In Vitro and In Vivo Anti-Aging Effect of Coffee Berry Nanoliposomes

Encapsulation of bioactive compounds in the liposome system provides several advantages, such as enhancing the stability and lowering the toxicity of active compounds. Coffee berry extract (CBE) has previously been established to have in vitro anti-aging properties and to retard the aging of human skin. The purposes of this study were to encapsulate CBE in nanoliposomes and to assess its stability and in vitro anti-aging potential in human dermal fibroblasts (HDF), as well as in healthy human skin. In the HDF model, anti-aging potential was determined by nitric oxide (NO) and collagenase inhibition assays and a superoxide dismutase (SOD) activity assay, whereas in healthy human skin (in vivo), the skin elasticity and brightness were examined. First, liposomal CBE (L-CBE) was created with a particle size of 117.33 ± 2.91 nm, a polydispersity index (PDI) of 0.36 ± 0.03, and a zeta potential of -56.13 ± 1.87 mV. The percentages of encapsulation efficacy (%EE) and loading efficacy (%LE) were 71.26 ± 3.12% and 2.18 ± 0.18%, respectively. After undergoing a 12-week stability test, the L-CBE retained more phenolic content than the free CBE when stored at 4 °C, room temperature, and 45 °C. Compared to free CBE, the L-CBE demonstrated a more consistent, elevated, and prolonged release of phenolics from the lipid system. In human dermal fibroblasts, L-CBE showed lower toxicity, and at its maximum nontoxic concentration (10 mg/mL), it exhibited slightly higher anti-aging effects than CBE, including NO inhibition, enhanced SOD activity, and anti-collagenase activities. In clinical trials (30 volunteer subjects), none of the participants' skin was irritated when the L-CBE, the CBE, or base creams were applied. After 2 weeks of application, the L-CBE and CBE creams both demonstrated an improvement in skin elasticity and a reduction in melanin levels, and after 4 weeks, L-CBE cream showed a significantly greater improvement in skin elasticity and lightening. The results demonstrate that the encapsulation of the CBE in liposomal systems could increase its stability and skin penetration, reduce its toxicity, and maintain its anti-aging effect, which is powerful enough to be exploited in anti-aging and whitening agents for application in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals.

Collagen Hydrolysate from the Scales of Mozambique Tilapia (Oreochromis mossambicus) Improve Hair and Skin Health by Alleviating Oxidative Stress and Inflammation and Promoting Hair Growth and Extracellular Matrix Factors

Fish-derived collagen hydrolysate (CH) has shown promise in improving hair and skin health. Therefore, this study sought to comprehensively assess the effects of CH extracted from Mozambique tilapia (Oreochromis mossambicus) scales on hair and skin using in vitro and in vivo models. Human dermal papilla cells (hDPCs) were used for antioxidant and gene expression analyses, while C57BL/6 mice were orally administered CH for six weeks to assess hair growth patterns. The mice were divided into four groups: negative control (NC; distilled water), positive control (PC; 1 mg/kg finasteride), CH500 (500 mg/kg BW CH), and CH1000 (1000 mg/kg BW CH). CH mitigated catalase activity reduction in hDPCs, increased IGF-1 and VEGF levels, and decreased TGF-β1, TNF-α, and IL-1β expression. In vivo, CH treatment improved hair growth index, length, diameter, weight, and density. Scanning electron microscopy revealed reduced hair damage. Moreover, CH up-regulated IGF-1, VEGF, Elastin, and HAS2 mRNA expression while down-regulating TNF-α and IL-1β. CH enhanced hair shine, growth, and skin health while alleviating inflammation. These findings demonstrate the potential of CH in alleviating oxidative stress, promoting hair growth, and enhancing skin health, both in vitro and in vivo. Fish-derived CH offers a cost-effective and bioavailable option for improving hair and skin health.

Helwah MK, Noureldin MH, Abbas H. Dual-effects of caffeinated hyalurosomes as a nano-cosmeceutical gel counteracting UV-induced skin ageing

Caffeine (CAF) is a challenging natural bioactive compound with proven antiaging efficacy. However, being hydrophilic hampers its permeation through the skin. Our aim is to develop a novel CAF-loaded nano-cosmeceutical tool counteracting skin photoaging via improving CAF skin permeation using a bioactive nanocarrier. Caffeinated hyalurosomes are novel biocompatible antiaging nanoplatforms designed by immobilization of phospholipid vesicles with a hyaluronan polymer. Physicochemical properties of the selected hyalurosomes formulation showed nano-sized vesicles (210.10 ± 1.87 nm), with high zeta potential (-31.30 ± 1.19 mv), and high encapsulation efficiency (84.60 ± 1.05%). In vitro release results showed outstanding sustained release profile from caffeinated hyalurosomes compared to the CAF-loaded in conventional gel over 24 h. The in-vivo study revealed a photoprotective effect of caffeinated hyalurosomes, reflected from the intact and wrinkling-free skin. Results of biochemical analyses of oxidative stress, pro-inflammatory mediators, and anti-wrinkling markers further confirmed the efficacy of the prepared hyalurosomes compared to the CAF conventional gel. Finally, histopathological examination demonstrated normal histological structures of epidermal layers with minimal inflammatory cell infiltrates in the caffeinated hyalurosomes group compared to the positive control group. Conclusively, caffeinated hyalurosomes successfully achieved enhanced CAF loading and penetration into the skin besides the hydration effect of hyaluronan. Consequently, the developed delivery system presents a promising skin protection nano-platforms via the double effects of both hyaluronan and CAF, hence it guards against skin photodamage.

Delivery of Therapeutic Biopolymers Employing Silica-Based Nanosystems

The use of nanoparticles is crucial for the development of a new generation of nanodevices for clinical applications. Silica-based nanoparticles can be tailored with a wide range of functional biopolymers with unique physicochemical properties thus providing several advantages: (1) limitation of interparticle interaction, (2) preservation of cargo and particle integrity, (3) reduction of immune response, (4) additional therapeutic effects and (5) cell targeting. Therefore, the engineering of advanced functional coatings is of utmost importance to enhance the biocompatibility of existing biomaterials. Herein we will focus on the most recent advances reported on the delivery and therapeutic use of silica-based nanoparticles containing biopolymers (proteins, nucleotides, and polysaccharides) with proven biological effects.

Chlorogenic Acids and Caffeine from Coffee By-Products: A Review on Skincare Applications

Upcycling is a modern trend in the cosmetic sector, focusing on by-products reuse and waste reduction. Consumers are more aware of the origin of cosmetic products and their environmental impact, promoting the upcycling phenomenon. Converting these raw materials into products of higher quality or value contributes to the final product’s sustainability. In fact, several agri-food by-products that are typically discarded have generated great interest, due to their value-added compounds with high functionality and/or bioactivity. Coffee is well known as a cosmetic ingredient, particularly due to the presence of phenolic compounds, such as chlorogenic acids, and caffeine. Caffeine is widely used in cosmetic formulations due to its photoprotector and anti-aging properties, as well as lipolytic action in cellulitis, and hair regrowth. Chlorogenic acids are powerful antioxidants and exhibit anti-aging and photoprotector abilities. Coffee by-products, such as coffee beans, possess these bioactive compounds and other chemical characteristics that can provide functional properties in cosmetic formulations. Coffee silverskin and spent coffee grounds are high-volume by-products of the coffee industry. Their use has been explored in different cosmetic formulations demonstrating safety, stability, acceptability as well as skin improvement, thus supporting their valorization as natural and sustainable new ingredients in skincare products.