Trends in Use of Prescription Skin Lightening Creams

Efficacy and safety of novel topical pigment-correcting regimen with biweekly diamond tip microdermabrasion procedures on facial hyperpigmentation

BACKGROUND

Facial hyperpigmentation can negatively affect an individual's emotional and psychosocial well-being.

AIMS

Assess safety and tolerability of a combination of microdermabrasion (DG) procedures using a novel brightening pro-infusion serum (EC-DG) with a targeted at-home treatment regimen in subjects with mild to severe facial hyperpigmentation, including melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and dark spots.

PATIENTS/METHODS

This 12-week, open-label study enrolled 18 subjects (Fitzpatrick skin types I-IV) who underwent 6 in-office DG procedures with EC-DG (one procedure administered biweekly), along with daily topical application of a brightening treatment serum and dark spot cream. End points included change from baseline across multiple skin quality attributes and the Melasma Area and Severity Index (MASI), self-assessment questionnaires, and tolerability assessments.

RESULTS

The combination treatment was well tolerated and resulted in significant (p ≤ 0.05) improvements from baseline in radiance, tactile roughness, and moisturization/hydration immediately after the first treatment, in MASI score at day 3, and in overall hyperpigmentation at week 4. Most (94.1%) subjects were satisfied with treatment.

CONCLUSIONS

DG procedures using EC-DG combined with a targeted at-home skincare regimen are effective and tolerable for treating facial hyperpigmentation across a broad range of skin types.

Skin-lightening products and Jordanian women: Beliefs and practice. A cross-sectional study

BACKGROUND

The use of skin-lightening products (SLPs) among Jordanian women has immensely increased and healthcare professionals have a vital role in raising public awareness of SLPs. The aim of this study is to identify SLPs practices among Jordanian women and their basic knowledge of the agents and the side effects associated with using these products.

METHODS

A cross-sectional study conducted during October to December of 2022. Jordanian women above 18 years of age were invited to participate via a survey link. Descriptive statistics were used, and logistic regression was applied to screen for variables affecting the knowledge score of the participants.

RESULTS

The mean age of the study participants (n = 384) was 32.04 (SD = 12.678). Results demonstrated that more than half of the participants (n = 193) reported current or past use of SLPs. Additionally, less than one-fifth (18.2%) of the participants (n = 70) reported previously experiencing some side-effects after using SLPs. About 90% of participants thought that these side-effects were caused by the active ingredients in SLPs. Most of the participants were able to identify some of the active ingredients used in SLPs such as Vitamin C (87.8%) and Hydroquinone (62.0%). It was also found that young participants, and those employed, or university students had higher knowledge scores of SLPs' active ingredients, and of their side-effects.

CONCLUSION

This study demonstrated that Jordanian women are adequately informed about skin-lightening products. Moreover, the practices revealed an educated pattern of action when obtaining information regarding SLPs. Fundamentally, healthcare providers should be influential in educating consumers on the proper use. Strict guidelines and policies should target the practices concerned with these products.

Exogenous Ochronosis: Characterizing a Rare Disorder in Skin of Color

Exogenous ochronosis is a rare dyschromia that primarily impacts those with skin of color. It is characterized by blue-black pigmentation and is associated with the long-term application of skin-lightening creams containing hydroquinone. Commonly confused with other dyschromias, the use of skin lightening topicals can cause paradoxical skin darkening in patients with known exogenous ochronosis. This is highly distressing to patients, often worsening the underlying dyschromia and making treatment more difficult. A 10-year retrospective analysis was conducted that revealed 25 patients with exogenous ochronosis. The average patient used a skin lightening cream for 9.2 years, with exogenous ochronosis most commonly arising on the cheeks (68%), forehead (24%), and temples (20%). Furthermore, this study identified that patients with exogenous ochronosis may respond well to treatment with Q-switched Alexandrite laser and microneedling. The incidence of exogenous ochronosis is likely to increase as demographics shift and access to a wide range of over-the-counter topicals becomes more available, both in the United States and worldwide. Therefore, it is imperative to better characterize exogenous ochronosis to identify best treatment practices for all patients.

Targeting Tyrosinase in Hyperpigmentation: Current Status, Limitations and Future Promises

Hyperpigmentation is a common and distressing dermatologic condition. Since tyrosinase (TYR) plays an essential role in melanogenesis, its inhibition is considered a logical approach along with other therapeutic methods to prevent the accumulation of melanin in the skin. Thus, TYR inhibitors are a tempting target as the medicinal and cosmetic active agents of hyperpigmentation disorder. Among TYR inhibitors, hydroquinone is a traditional lightening agent that is commonly used in clinical practice. However, despite good efficacy, prolonged use of hydroquinone is associated with side effects. To overcome these shortcomings, new approaches in targeting TYR and treating hyperpigmentation are desperately requiredessentialneeded. In line with this purpose, several non-hydroquinone lightening agents have been developed and suggested as hydroquinone alternatives. In addition to traditional approaches, nanomedicine and nanotheranostic platforms have been recently proposed in the treatment of hyperpigmentation. In this review, we discuss the available strategies for the management of hyperpigmentation with a focus on TYR inhibition. In addition, alternative treatment options to hydroquinone are discussed. Finally, we present nano-based strategies to improve the therapeutic effect of drugs prescribed to patients with skin disorders.

Engineered production of bioactive polyphenolic O-glycosides

Polyphenolic compounds (such as quercetin and resveratrol) possess potential medicinal values due to their various bioactivities, but poor water solubility hinders their health benefits to humankind. Glycosylation is a well-known post-modification method to biosynthesize natural product glycosides with improved hydrophilicity. Glycosylation has profound effects on decreasing toxicity, increasing bioavailability and stability, together with changing bioactivity of polyphenolic compounds. Therefore, polyphenolic glycosides can be used as food additives, therapeutics, and nutraceuticals. Engineered biosynthesis provides an environmentally friendly and cost-effective approach to generate polyphenolic glycosides through the use of various glycosyltransferases (GTs) and sugar biosynthetic enzymes. GTs transfer the sugar moieties from nucleotide-activated diphosphate sugar (NDP-sugar) donors to sugar acceptors such as polyphenolic compounds. In this review, we systematically review and summarize the representative polyphenolic O-glycosides with various bioactivities and their engineered biosynthesis in microbes with different biotechnological strategies. We also review the major routes towards NDP-sugar formation in microbes, which is significant for producing unusual or novel glycosides. Finally, we discuss the trends in NDP-sugar based glycosylation research to promote the development of prodrugs that positively impact human health and wellness.

Single and combined 1064 nm Q-switched Nd: YAG laser therapy in melasma: a meta-analysis

PURPOSE

This article attempted to describe the efficacy and safety of 1064QNYL in combination with other treatments for refractory melasma.

METHODS

Two researchers independently retrieved randomized controlled trials (RCTs) according to inclusion and exclusion criteria. Primary outcome was evaluated with MASI and mMASI scores in control group and experiment group. The secondary outcome was evaluated with MI scores. We calculated 95%CI of standardized mean difference (SMD) and heterogeneity of the included literature by Higgins I² test, and assessed publication bias by Funnel plots, Egger's, and Begg's tests.

RESULTS

A total of 12 articles including 322 subjects were analyzed. Experiment group was treated with 1064QNYL combined with single treatment (e.g., PDL, IPL, RF, TA). Control group was treated with 1064QNYL alone. A greater reduction of Melasma Area and Severity Index (MASI)/modified Melasma Area and Severity Index (mMASI) scores were shown in experiment group than that in control group at the end of the treatment (SMD, -0.37; 95%CI -0.70 to -0.04, p=0.03, I² =33%). The SMD of MI scores further supported this conclusion by -0.32 (95%CI -0.63 to -0.02, P =0.04, I² =27%). As for adverse events (AEs), combined treatment gave rise to more mild burning, stinging, and erythema that resolved spontaneously. Several studies reported focal purpura, punctate leukoderma, hyperpigmentation and hypopigmentation, and so on.

CONCLUSION

Combined 1064QNYL treatment was better than single laser treatment, with the highest short-term benefit and long-term follow-up to maintain the effect in favor of combined treatment.

A Mixture of Topical Forms of Polydeoxyribonucleotide, Vitamin C, and Niacinamide Attenuated Skin Pigmentation and Increased Skin Elasticity by Modulating Nuclear Factor Erythroid 2-like 2

It is well-known that increased oxidative stress caused by ultraviolet B (UV-B) radiation induces melanogenesis and activates metalloproteinases (MMPs), which degrade collagen and elastin fibers, leading to decreased skin elasticity. Various antioxidant agents, such as vitamin C and niacinamide, have been evaluated for use as treatments for photoaging or skin pigmentation. In this study, we evaluated the ability of a topical liquid formula of polydeoxyribonucleotide (PDRN), vitamin C, and niacinamide (PVN) delivered via a microneedling therapy system (MTS) to attenuate photoaging and pigmentation by increasing nuclear factor erythroid 2-like 2 (NRF2)/heme oxygenase-1 (HO-1) and decreasing MMP expression in a UV-B-radiated animal model. The effects of the PVN were compared with those of individual PDRN and hydroquinone (HQ) compounds. The expression of NRF2/HO-1 significantly increased in response to HQ, PDRN, and PVN in UV-B-radiated animal skin. The activity of nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate hydrogen oxidase decreased in response to HQ, PDRN, and PVN, and the superoxide dismutase activity increased. The expression of tumor protein p53 and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor and tyrosinase activity decreased in response to HQ, PDRN, and PVN, and this decrease was accompanied by decreased melanin content in the skin. The expression of nuclear factor kappa-light-chain enhancer of activated B cells and MMP2/3/9 decreased in response to HQ, PDRN, and PVN in UV-B-radiated skin. However, the expression of collagen type I α1 chain and the amount of collagen fibers that were evaluated by Masson's trichrome staining increased in response to HQ, PDRN, and PVN. The contents of elastin fibers, fibrillin 1/2 and fibulin 5 increased in response to HQ, PDRN, and PVN. In conclusion, PVN delivered via MTS led to decreased melanogenesis and destruction of collagen and elastin fibers by MMPs, and, thus, PVN decreased skin pigmentation and increased skin elasticity.

Functional Characterization of Melanin Decolorizing Extracellular Peroxidase of Bjerkandera adusta

Melanin pigmentation in the human skin results from complicated cellular mechanisms that remain to be entirely understood. Uneven melanin pigmentation has been counteracted by inhibiting synthesis or transfer of melanin in the skin. Recently, an enzymatic approach has been proposed, wherein the melanin in the skin is decolorized using lignin peroxidase. However, not many enzymes are available for decolorizing melanin; the most studied one is lignin peroxidase derived from a lignin degrading fungus, Phanerochaete chrysosporium. Our current study reveals that versatile peroxidase from Bjerkandera adusta can decolorize synthetic melanin. Melanin decolorization was found to be dependent on veratryl alcohol and hydrogen peroxide, but not on Mn²⁺. The degree of decolorization reached over 40% in 10 min at 37 °C and a pH of 4.5. Optimized storage conditions were slightly different from those for the reaction; crude enzyme preparation was the most stable at 25 °C at pH 5.5. Since the enzyme rapidly lost its activity at 50 °C, stabilizers were screened. As a result, glycerol, a major component in several cosmetic formulations, was found to be a promising excipient. Our results suggest that B. adusta versatile peroxidase can be considered for future cosmetic applications aimed at melanin decolorization.

Skin-Lightening Products: Consumer Preferences and Costs

Disorders of skin hyperpigmentation have an appreciable impact on quality of life, carrying social and cultural importance that influences widespread consumer demand for cosmetic lightening products. We sought to investigate product factors that may influence consumer preference when choosing an over-the-counter cream for skin-lightening purposes. The keyword "lightening cream" was searched in the "Beauty and Personal Care category" of online retailer Amazon.com. The top fifth percentile of products was determined by filtering the search results for a minimum of four out of five stars from customer reviews, and then further filtered by products with over 100 reviews. Number of reviews, rating, price per unit, vehicle, application instructions, ingredients, and review attributes were evaluated. Over 2,900 products were catalogued as "lightening cream" on Amazon.com. There were 40 products rated >4 stars and >100 reviews, constituting the top 1.34% of entries. Tocopheryl was present in 58% of the top 40 products, ascorbic acid in 40%, and niacinamide in 20%. Notably, 22.5% of the top 40 products contained no known skin-lightening ingredient. There was a moderate positive correlation (R2=0.378) between price and consumer rating, with kojic acid being the most expensive per ounce ($24.89) and salicylic acid being the most highly rated (4.54 stars; $15.00/oz). This study provides insight on the factors influencing the choice, preferences, and satisfaction of consumer that sought Amazon for the purchase of lightening products.

Arbutin as a Skin Depigmenting Agent with Antimelanogenic and Antioxidant Properties

Arbutin is a compound of hydroquinone and D-glucose, and it has been over 30 years since there have been serious studies on the skin lightening action of this substance. In the meantime, there have been debates and validation studies about the mechanism of action of this substance as well as its skin lightening efficacy and safety. Several analogs or derivatives of arbutin have been developed and studied for their melanin synthesis inhibitory action. Formulations have been developed to improve the stability, transdermal delivery, and release of arbutin, and device usage to promote skin absorption has been developed. Substances that inhibit melanin synthesis synergistically with arbutin have been explored. The skin lightening efficacy of arbutin alone or in combination with other active ingredients has been clinically evaluated. Combined therapy with arbutin and laser could give enhanced depigmenting efficacy. The use of arbutin causes dermatitis rarely, and caution is recommended for the use of arbutin-containing products, especially from the viewpoint that hydroquinone may be generated during product use. Studies on the antioxidant properties of arbutin are emerging, and these antioxidant properties are proposed to contribute to the skin depigmenting action of arbutin. It is hoped that this review will help to understand the pros and cons of arbutin as a cosmetic ingredient, and will lead to future research directions for developing advanced skin lightening and protecting cosmetic products.