Quasi-drugs developed in Japan for the prevention or treatment of hyperpigmentary disorders

Melanin accumulation in acanthotic seborrheic keratosis: Reduced proliferation and early differentiation of keratinocytes and increased number of melanocytes

Seborrheic keratosis (SK) is a common benign tumour, often associated with hyperpigmentation. To investigate the mechanism of melanin accumulation in SK, we have conducted comprehensive gene expression and histological analyses. We obtained five pairs of skin samples, including non-lesional and SK samples, from the backs of three male Japanese participants aged 40-59 years. To examine melanocytes and keratinocytes in SK, three pairs of skin samples were separated by laser capture microdissection into the basal layer and the other layer in the epidermis. We performed a comprehensive gene expression analysis to identify differentially expressed genes between non-lesional and SK skin, followed by gene ontology and pathway analysis. We found abnormal morphogenesis and cell proliferation in the basal layer, along with increased immune response and impaired cell differentiation and metabolism in the other layer of SK. We focused on cell proliferation and differentiation, as these are directly associated with melanin accumulation. Immunohistochemical analyses of Ki67, keratin 10, and keratin 14 demonstrated the decreases in the proliferation and early differentiation of the epidermis. Contrarily, no significant changes were observed in terminal differentiation markers, filaggrin and loricrin. Although the number of melanocytes was higher in SK than in non-lesional skin, melanogenic activity showed no difference. These results indicated that melanin accumulation in SK is caused by delayed melanin excretion due to reduced turnover around the basal and spinous layers of the epidermis and melanin production due to an increased number of melanocytes. Our findings provide new insights for therapeutic approaches in SK.

Anti-Melanogenic and Anti-Inflammatory Effects of 2'-Hydroxy-4',6'-dimethoxychalcone in B16F10 and RAW264.7 Cells

Chalcone is a type of flavonoid compound that is widely biosynthesized in plants. Studies have shown that consuming flavonoids from fruits and vegetables or applying individual ingredients reduces the risk of skin disease. However, the effects of chalcone on melanogenesis and inflammation have not been fully investigated. The aim of this study was to evaluate the anti-melanogenic and anti-inflammatory effects of 2'-hydroxy-3,4'-dimethoxychalcone (3,4'-DMC), 2'-hydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxychalcone (4,4'-DMC), 2'-hydroxy-3',4'-dimethoxychalcone (3',4'-DMC), and 2'-hydroxy-4',6'-dimethoxychalcone (4',6'-DMC). Among the derivatives of 2'-hydroxy-4'-methoxychalcone, 4',6'-DMC demonstrated the most potent melanogenesis-inhibitory and anti-inflammatory effects. As evidenced by various biological assays, 4',6'-DMC showed no cytotoxicity and notably decreased the expression of tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein (TRP)-1, and TRP-2 enzymes. Furthermore, it reduced cellular melanin content and intracellular tyrosinase activity in B16F10 melanoma cells by downregulating microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), cAMP-dependent protein kinase (PKA), cAMP response element-binding protein (CREB), p38, c-Jun N-terminal kinase (JNK), β-catenin, glycogen synthase kinase-3β (GSK3β), and protein kinase B (AKT) proteins, while upregulating extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK) and p-β-catenin. Additionally, treatment with 4',6'-DMC significantly mitigated the lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-induced expression of NO, PGE2, inflammatory cytokines, COX-2, and iNOS proteins. Overall, 4',6'-DMC treatment notably alleviated LPS-induced damage by reducing nuclear factor kappa B (NF-κB), p38, JNK protein levels, and NF-kB/p65 nuclear translocation. Finally, the topical applicability of 4',6'-DMC was evaluated in a preliminary human skin irritation test and no adverse effects were found. These findings suggest that 4',6'-DMC may offer new possibilities for use as functional ingredients in cosmeceuticals and ointments.

Efficacy and safety of novel topical pigment-correcting regimen with biweekly diamond tip microdermabrasion procedures on facial hyperpigmentation

BACKGROUND

Facial hyperpigmentation can negatively affect an individual's emotional and psychosocial well-being.

AIMS

Assess safety and tolerability of a combination of microdermabrasion (DG) procedures using a novel brightening pro-infusion serum (EC-DG) with a targeted at-home treatment regimen in subjects with mild to severe facial hyperpigmentation, including melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and dark spots.

PATIENTS/METHODS

This 12-week, open-label study enrolled 18 subjects (Fitzpatrick skin types I-IV) who underwent 6 in-office DG procedures with EC-DG (one procedure administered biweekly), along with daily topical application of a brightening treatment serum and dark spot cream. End points included change from baseline across multiple skin quality attributes and the Melasma Area and Severity Index (MASI), self-assessment questionnaires, and tolerability assessments.

RESULTS

The combination treatment was well tolerated and resulted in significant (p ≤ 0.05) improvements from baseline in radiance, tactile roughness, and moisturization/hydration immediately after the first treatment, in MASI score at day 3, and in overall hyperpigmentation at week 4. Most (94.1%) subjects were satisfied with treatment.

CONCLUSIONS

DG procedures using EC-DG combined with a targeted at-home skincare regimen are effective and tolerable for treating facial hyperpigmentation across a broad range of skin types.

Tocopherol succinate-loaded ethosomal gel synthesized by cold method technique: Deeper biophysical characterizations for translational application on human skin

BACKGROUND

Tocopherols are well-known antioxidant and moisturizing agent. Tocopherol succinate (TS) are widely used in many skin products especially used in anti-aging and skin whitening product formulation.

AIM

We previously reported the successful synthesis and preliminary characterizations of stable TS ethosomal gels (TSEG) (DOI: 10.1111/jocd.14907). Herein, we develop and further characterize TSEG to enhance the stability of the developed formulation with increased permeation through skin.

METHODS

Cold method technique was used to prepare TS ethosomes. The developed ethosomal vesicle size was 250 nm, which allowed TS to penetrate through the stratum corneum layer and act on melanocytes. For stability study was assessed by thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) by placing TSEG and unloaded/control ethosomal gel (CEG) at various temperature conditions, that is, 8°C, 25°C, 40°C, and 40°C ± 75% RH for 3 months. Organoleptic evaluation was done in terms of color, odor, and phase separation. Transmission electron microscopy (TEM), Fourier Transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), x-ray diffraction spectroscopy (XRD), zeta potential (ZP) and particle size (PS) was used for TSEG physical characterizations. In vitro dissolution and ex-vivo permeation studies (using Franz diffusion cell) were performed for both TSEG and CEG formulations. Human women (N = 34) were used to evaluate in vivo biophysical parameters including erythema, melanin, moisture content, sebum level, and skin elasticity.

RESULTS

Developed formulation was highly thermostable during the 3 months. Erythema, melanin, and sebum level decreased while marked improvement (p < 0.05) in moisture content and elasticity have been observed for the developed TSEG.

CONCLUSION

The developed TSEG formulation was found to be efficient, safe (no adverse effects observed), stable (at least for 3 months), and easy to use for topical application with improved skin complexation and skin integrity.

Efficacy of Oral, Topical, and Intradermal Tranexamic Acid in Patients with Melasma - A Meta-Analysis

Background and Objective

Tranexamic acid (TXA) has recently shown promising results in the treatment of melasma. The objective of this study was to generate statistical evidence on the efficacy of TXA with different routes.

Materials and Methods

We searched studies in PubMed, Cochrane, ClinicalTrials.gov, and Scopus using the Preferred Reporting Items for Systematic Reviews and Meta-Analyses 2020 guidelines. A change in melasma area and severity index (MASI)/modified MASI score from the baseline at the end of 8 and 12 weeks was seen. Inverse variance method was used for continuous data to measure standard mean difference (SMD) at a 95% confidence interval (CI). RevMan version 5.4 was used for analysis, and statistical heterogeneity across studies was reported using I2 statistics. P < 0.05 was considered significant.

Results

Totally, 28 randomized control trials were included. At 8 weeks, oral TXA showed a significant change in SMD of 1.61, 95% CI 0.44-2.79, P = 0.007; at 12 weeks, oral TXA showed SMD of 2.39, 95% CI 1.42-3.35, P < 0.00001 compared to adjuvant treatment. At 8 weeks, topical TXA did not show a significant change with SMD of -0.05, 95% CI -1.08-0.97, P = 0.92; at 12 weeks, topical TXA did not show a significant change with SMD of 0.66, 95% CI -0.10-1.42, P = 0.09 compared to adjuvant treatment. Similarly, for intradermal TXA at 8 weeks, results were not significant with SMD of 1.21, 95% CI -0.41-2.83, P = 0.14, and at 12 weeks, SMD was -0.55, 95% CI -2.27-1.18, P = 0.54 compared to adjuvant treatment.

Conclusion

Tranexamic acid in an oral formulation can be used along with adjuvant treatment for the management of melasma. Data are still required for topical and intradermal routes. Owing to the fact that our included studies had a lot of heterogeneity, more research is needed along with addressing the adverse effects of tranexamic acid as well as its variation in different skin colors.

Arctigenin-Enriched Burdock Seed Oil (ABSO): A New Skin Brightening Botanical Extract

The Arctium lappa L. plant, commonly known as burdock, has been used therapeutically for hundreds of years. Arctigenin (ATG) is an active ingredient in burdock, albeit at low quantities or mostly in the form of acrtiin (arctigenin-4-glucoside). ATG has been touted for its anti-inflammatory properties in many cell types and disease states; however, its role in skin and melanin production has not been extensively studied. Our aims for this study were to develop a burdock seed extract enriched for ATG that is amenable to quasi-drug development, determine in vitro brightening activity, and evaluate safety and skin brightening efficacy clinically in human subjects. Arctiin and ATG content were measured by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). In vitro studies utilized EpiDermTM tissues for skin irritation test, and MelanoDermTM tissues for melanin reduction capacity. A 45 subject clinical study was performed in adult subjects ranging in age from 30 to 60 years old (mean = 41.9 ± 6.7) to test the safety and skin brightening potential of 1% ABSO lotion. We demonstrate by HPLC that ABSO is a natural extract that contains ~5-times more arctigenin than BSO. Furthermore, ABSO inhibits melanin production better than BSO and retains the same melanin-reducing capacity as synthetic ATG in vitro in MelanoDerm™ 3D skin cultures. ABSO also adheres to quasi-drug criteria according to the Japanese Standards of Quasi-Drug Ingredients as determined by infrared absorption spectrum method, unsaponifiable matter, heavy metal and arsenic content, and acid, saponification, and iodine value methods. Clinical assessment of 1% ABSO lotion shows it is well-tolerated in human skin and demonstrates improved brightness and skin tone evenness. ABSO is a natural arctigenin-enriched burdock seed extract that reduces melanin content in vitro and clinically improves skin brightness.

Review on the Use of Kojic Acid—A Skin-Lightening Ingredient

This article reviews the use of Kojic Acid (KA) as a skin-lightening ingredient in the cosmetics industry. In 1907, Saito discovered KA, a natural product; it has since become one of the most investigated skin-lightening agents. This paper highlights the findings of the research conducted on this agent. It has been found that KA has certain disadvantages, and researchers have attempted to mitigate these disadvantages by designing new equivalents of KA that are more efficient in tyrosinase inhibition. These equivalents are also safe to use and have improved properties and solubility. The Cosmeceutical Ingredient Review (CIR) indicates that this ingredient can be safely used at a concentration not higher than 1% due to its cytotoxicity. Other scientific data also support its safety at a concentration of 2% or less. It was shown to be helpful in the treatment of hyper pigmentary disorders, such as freckles, age spots, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and melasma, which has been proven clinically.

A comparative evaluation of the efficacy of intralesional tranexamic acid versus platelet rich plasma in the treatment of melasma

Melasma is a benign, acquired disorder of hyperpigmentation commonly affecting the face. Though easily diagnosable, a tangible treatment for melasma still remains elusive. Our aim was to compare the therapeutic efficacy and safety of tranexamic acid (TXA) and platelet rich plasma (PRP) microinjections in treating patients with melasma. In total, 40 patients with melasma (10 males, 30 females; age range: 21-54 years) were enrolled, and randomly assigned to one of the two groups consisting of 20 patients each. Group A (3 males, 17 females) received intradermal microinjections of TXA (4 mg/ml) and group B (5 males, 15 females) received intradermal microinjections of PRP, once every 4 weeks for a total of five treatment sessions. Clinical images were taken at each visit and improvement in melasma was evaluated using both melasma area severity index (MASI) and modified melasma area severity index (mMASI) scoring systems. Percentage reduction of both MASI and mMASI scores were also assessed at each visit, and the grade of melasma improvement was accordingly outlined for each patient. The study was completed by 18 patients in group A (TXA) and 15 patients in group B (PRP). In group A, both MASI and mMASI scores reduced significantly from 16.6 ± 9.227 at baseline to 10.028 ± 8.07 at end point; and 8.885 ± 5.418 at baseline to 4.639 ± 3.863 at end point, respectively (p value <0.01). Similarly in group B significant reduction in both scores were observed at the end of treatment. MASI declined from 20.42 ± 7.979 to 12.253 ± 7.37; and mMASI plummeted to 5.613 ± 3.98 from 10.673 ± 4.642 (p value <0.01). In group A, the difference in mean reduction of MASI and mMASI from baseline to end point was 6.572 ± 4.528 and 4.211 ± 2.647, respectively. In group B, the difference in mean reduction of both scores at the end of treatment reflected values of 8.167 ± 4.975(MASI) and 5.06 ± 2.977 (mMASI). No significant adverse effects were encountered in both treatment arms during the entire duration of study. Both TXA and PRP microinjections were found to be effective and safe therapeutic options for melasma, providing rapid and substantial improvement even when used as standalone therapies. Although PRP mesotherapy was found to be slightly better than intradermal TXA in our study, the results were not significant statistically.

Topical 5% tranexamic acid with 30% glycolic acid peel: An useful combination for accelerating the improvement in melasma

Recently, topical Tranexamic acid (TXA) has been used in melasma management. On detail search of literature, this may be the first study-assessing efficacy on combining of Topical TXA with GA peel in melasma. The aim of this study is to assess efficacy, safety, and improvement in quality of life index on combining 30% GA peel with 5% TXA solution topically in melasma of epidermal type. Sixty patients of epidermal melasma were included in the study and were categorized into two groups: Combination group was treated with 30% GA peel at 2 weekly intervals with 5% TXA solution applied twice daily and Control group was treated with only 30% GA peel every 2 weeks for 12 weeks. Melasma area severity index (MASI) was used for assessing clinical improvement. Hi-MELASQOL and HRQOL scales were used to measure Melasma related quality of life and were compared between both groups. At each visit, adverse effects were noted. A significantly decreasing trend was seen regarding the MASI score when compared within the group, but the difference was statistically not significant between the two groups at 12 weeks. However, significant reduction in MASI score was attained earlier in the combination group than the control group. Similarly, there was significant improvement in Hi-MELASQOL and HRQOL in both the groups, but the difference between them was statistically not significant. Side effects experienced by patients in both groups were trivial and did not require stoppage of therapy. This study concluded that topical TXA with GA peel has comparable result with GA peel alone, but the therapeutic response was achieved in patients of combination group earlier in comparison to control group patients.

Development and cosmeceutical evaluation of topical emulgel containing Albizia lebbeck bark extract

BACKGROUND

Antioxidants are widely used in cosmetic products as they have beneficial effects on skin and prevent skin from harmful effects of environment. Albizia lebbeck has a significant potential to be used in cosmeceuticals due to its antioxidant activity.

OBJECTIVES

The aim of this study was to formulate a stable and effective o/w emulsion-based emulgel containing Albizia lebbeck bark extract, which have considerable antioxidant activity.

METHODOLOGY

Antioxidant activity of Albizia lebbeck bark extract was determined by DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) method. Emulgel containing 3% extract was developed by mixing o/w emulsion in Carbopol gel along with a placebo emulgel without extract (base). In vitro evaluation of these emulgels, that is, liquefaction, color, phase separation, centrifugation, and pH change were carried out for a period of 8 weeks at different storage conditions, that is, 8ºC, 25ºC, 40ºC, and 40ºC & 75% relative humidity (RH). In vivo evaluation of emulgels was carried out on 13 healthy female volunteers by measuring various parameters of skin, that is, melanin level, erythema level, moisture content, sebum content, and elasticity at regular time intervals after applying emulgel (both base and test formulation) for 8 weeks.

RESULTS

Antioxidant activity of Albizia lebbeck bark extract was 84.7%. Both emulgels (base and test formulation) were stable at all storage conditions. Statistical analysis showed that test formulation produced significant effects (p < 0.05) on melanin, erythema level, moisture content, sebum level, and elasticity of skin.

CONCLUSION

It can be concluded that a stable topical emulgel containing 3% Albizia lebbeck bark extract has significant antioxidant effects on human skin.

Promotion effects of flavonoids on browning induced by enzymatic oxidation of tyrosinase: structure-activity relationship

Tyrosinase, widely distributed in nature, is a copper-containing polyphenol oxidase involved in the formation of melanin. Flavonoids are most often considered as tyrosinase inhibitors but have also been confirmed to be tyrosinase substrates. Four structure-related flavonoids including flavones (apigenin and luteolin) and flavonols (kaempferol and quercetin) are found to promote not inhibit browning induced by tyrosinase catalyzed oxidation both in model systems and in mushrooms under aerobic conditions. A comparison with enzymatic oxidation and autooxidation of flavonoids alone has helped to clarify why flavonoids function as a substrate rather than an inhibitor. Flavonoids almost do not affect the kinetics of melanin formation from enzymatic oxidation of l-dopa in excess. In addition, a new brown complex formed during the reaction of flavonoid quinone and dopaquinone is suggested to enhance the browning effects by competing with isomerization and autooxidation. Structure-activity relationships of the four flavonoids in melanin formation leading to browning induced by autooxidation and enzymatic oxidation confirm the enzymatic nature of the browning.

Anti-melanogenic activity of salacinol by inhibition of tyrosinase oligosaccharide processing

Hyperpigmentation that manifests through melasma and solar lentigo (age spots), although mostly harmless for health, bothers many people. Controlling the rate-limiting activity of tyrosinase is most effective for suppressing excessive melanin formation and accordingly recent research has focused on the maturation of tyrosinase. Salacia, a medicinal plant, has been used to treat diabetes in India and Sri Lanka. Salacia extract reportedly contains components that inhibit the activity of α-glucosidase. Salacinol, the active ingredient in Salacia extract, has unique thiosugar sulphonium sulphate inner salt structure. Here, we observed that the salacinol component of Salacia extract possesses anti-melanogenic activity in comparison to various existing whitening agents. Although the anti-melanogenic mechanism of salacinol is presumably medicated by inhibition of tyrosinase activity, which is often found in existing whitening agents, salacinol did not inhibit tyrosinase activity in vitro. Analysis of the intracellular state of tyrosinase showed a decrease in the mature tyrosinase form due to inhibition of N-linked oligosaccharide processing. Salacinol inhibited the processing glucosidase I/II, which are involved in the initial stage of N-linked glycosylation. Owing to high activity, low cytotoxicity and high hydrophilicity, salacinol is a promising candidate compound in whitening agents aimed for external application on skin.

Effective lightening of facial melasma during the summer with a dual regimen: A prospective, open-label, evaluator-blinded study

BACKGROUND

Melasma is a chronic pigmentary condition that can have significant negative effects on quality of life. Vitamin C can be effective in the treatment melasma, but its delivery often proves to be challenging due to instability of the drug and subsequent cutaneous irritation at higher concentrations.

AIM

In this prospective, open-label, evaluator-blinded study, we aimed to assess the efficacy and tolerability of twice-daily application of a novel, highly potent, non-irritating 30% tetrahexyldecyl (THD) ascorbate serum in combination with 100% mineral-based sunscreen in the treatment of melasma during the summer months.

PATIENTS/METHODS

Ten female subjects of ages ranging from 18 to 60 years underwent twice-daily application of 30% THD ascorbate serum in combination with an anti-aging 100% mineral tinted broad-spectrum protection SPF 45 sunscreen moisturizer for 12 weeks during the summer months (July to September). Two blinded evaluators scored baseline and post-treatment photographs using the Griffiths' 10-point scale and global aesthetic improvement scale.

RESULTS

All subjects showed an improvement in hyperpigmentation with an average improvement of 33.7%. Seventy percent of subjects showed an improvement in skin tone evenness (redness), and among those subjects, the average improvement was 33.3%. The median global aesthetic improvement score was 2.0 (very much improved).

CONCLUSION

Our study demonstrated efficacy and safety in treating the pigmentary as well as vascular components of melasma with a novel 30% THD ascorbate serum and a purely mineral-based tinted moisturizing sunscreen.

Intradermal Tranexamic Acid Injection for the Treatment of Melasma: A Pilot Study with 48-week Follow-up

BACKGROUND: Despite being an effective treatment for melasma, there have been limited reports on the long-term efficacy of intradermal tranexamic acid (TA) injection. OBJECTIVE: This study sought to evaluate the 48-week efficacy of a 4mg/mL intradermal TA injection for the treatment of melasma. METHODS: Five female patients with melasma participated in the 48-week follow-up after receiving 4-mg/mL intradermal TA injections on the face every two weeks for seven sessions and a sunscreen prescription. Assessments were performed at baseline and Weeks 4, 8, 12, 16, and 48 using the modified Melasma Area Severity Index (mMASI) score, melanin index, and patient satisfaction score. Safety and adverse effects were also evaluated. RESULTS: The mean (standard deviation) age of patients was 53.6 (8.14) years and Fitzpatrick Skin Type IV (60%) and Fitzpatrick Skin Type V (40%) were observed. The mean (standard deviation) duration of melasma was 7.6 (2.51) years and 60 percent of participants reported a family history of melasma. There was a significant decrease in mMASI score and melanin index at 16 weeks, without a statistically significant improvement of mMASI score at 48 weeks. Melasma recurrence was observed in 60 percent of the participants, with higher mMASI scores recorded, but the severity remained less than at baseline. The patient satisfaction score was lower from Week 16 to Week 48. Interestingly, a statistically significant decrease in the melanin index was observed up to Week 48, with no serious adverse effects. CONCLUSION: The 4-mg/mL intradermal TA injection yields significant efficacy at Week 16; however, melasma recurrence occurred during the 48-week follow-up. In addition to tranexamic acid injections, maintenance therapy and sun protection should be considered for patients with melasma.

Comparison of the efficacy of intradermal injected tranexamic acid vs hydroquinone cream in the treatment of melasma

Background

Melasma is a common benign acquired pigmentary dermatosis due to a disorder in the function of the melanogenesis process. Although several treatments are currently used, it remains a great challenge.

Aim

The aim of this study is to compare the efficacy of intradermal injected tranexamic acid (TA) vs hydroquinone (HQ) cream in the treatment of melasma.

Materials and methods

In this prospective split face controlled clinical trial, 49 patients were randomly divided into two groups of A (24 persons) and B (25 persons). Patients received TA intradermal injections every 2 weeks on the right side of the face with a concentration of 4 mg/ mL in group A and a concentration of 10 mg/mL in group B. The left side in both groups was treated twice daily with topical 4% HQ cream, and treatment continued for 12 weeks in both groups. Melasma Area and Severity Index (MASI) scores were measured for each side of the face at baseline and at weeks 4, 8, 12, and 24. SPSS, version 22, P<0.05, was used for data analysis.

Results

Forty-one patients (21 in group A and 20 in group B) completed the study. The MASI score in the 12th week significantly decreased compared to the baseline for group A, group B, and HQ cream. However, no statistically significant difference was observed between the MASI score of patients in groups A and B. Also, the comparison of TA at the concentration of 4 mg/ mL compared to the 4% HQ cream showed that the MASI scores in the eighth week (P=0.02) and the 12th week (P=0.02) were significantly less in the HQ group. However, no significant difference was observed between the MASI score changes in Group B (10 mg/mL) and the 4% HQ group. Also, patients in group A had higher satisfaction than patients in group B (P=0.001).

Conclusion

Injection of TA intradermally can be an effective treatment for melasma.

Antioxidant and Tyrosinase Inhibitory Activities of Seed Oils from Torreya grandis Fort. ex Lindl

Torreya grandis Fort. ex Lindl. is a plant belonging to the Taxaceae family and Torreya grandis cv. Merrillii is the only grafted and thoroughbred species belonging to this species. In this study, we extracted five different seed oils, including T. grandis seed oil (TGSO), T. grandis "Xiangyafei" seed oil (XYSO), T. grandis "Zhimafei" seed oil (ZMSO), T. grandis "Majus"seed oil (TGMSO), and T. grandis "cunguangfei" seed oil (CGSO) using physical pressure. The resulting extracts were analyzed to determine their fatty acid composition, antioxidant activity, and inhibitory activity towards tyrosinase. The results of the antioxidant activity assays revealed that XYSO and ZMSO exhibited much greater DPPH radical scavenging activity and ferric reducing power than TGSO. Notably, all five of the seed oils showed dose-dependent inhibitory activity towards tyrosinase. XYSO and TGSO gave the highest activities of all of the seed oils tested in the current study against monophenolase and diphenolase, with IC50 values of 227.0 and 817.5μg/mL, respectively. The results of this study show that wild TGSOs exhibit strong antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibition activities. These results therefore suggest that wild TGSOs could be used as a potential source of natural antioxidant agents and tyrosinase inhibitors.

Facial Microfiber Tissue with plant extracts: A new cosmetic concept shows whitening efficacy in Asian volunteers

BACKGROUND

The Asian population presents a high incidence of Fitzpatrick skin types III and IV. The management of skin tone is a very important cosmetic issue in these groups. Efficacy check of a new cosmetic concept to achieve skin color lightening arouses great interest.

OBJECTIVE

To estimate the clinical efficacy of a new facial microfiber tissue (FMT) which combines a surface micropeeling technology (due to the structure of the microfibers) with skin whitening cosmetic actives in Asian skin. The FMT is a new concept featuring a dry microfiber tissue loaded with cosmetic actives, which is just wetted with little tap water before use.

METHODS

A total of 34 females aged 21-58 years old with Fitzpatrick skin types III and IV were enrolled in this randomized, blank-controlled trial for 12 weeks. Participants applied FMT on the left or right forearm according to random assignment. At the same time, FMT was used on the face. Skin whitening effects on the forearm and face were evaluated using Mexameter MX18 and Minolta Spectrophotometer CM-2600d. In addition, assessment by subjects via a self-evaluation questionnaire was conducted at study end.

RESULTS

The FMT treatment showed a significant whitening effect mainly on the forearm compared with blank control forearm. Facial whitening was also noted. No adverse reactions were reported during the study.

CONCLUSION

The new cosmetic concept of FMT can be used as an effective and safe whitening cosmetic agent.

Biochemical effects of the flavanol-rich lychee fruit extract on the melanin biosynthesis and reactive oxygen species

An ingredient of fruit polyphenol, resveratrol, is known to have an inhibitory effect on melanogenesis. In order to examine the functional differences between resveratrol and other fruit polyphenols, we compared biochemical effects of a resveratrol-free polyphenol, flavanol-rich lychee fruit extract (FRLFE), with other phenolic compounds including resveratrol. FRLFE as well as hydroquinone and resveratrol suppressed growth of B16F1 melanoma cells more significantly than rhododendrol or arbutin. Resveratrol suppressed mushroom tyrosinase at the lowest concentration (23.0 μmol/L) among the compounds tested. FRLFE and hydroquinone suppressed tyrosinase at almost the same concentration (half maximal inhibitory concentration [IC₅₀ ], 83.5 and 94.6 μmol/L, respectively), which was higher than rhododendrol, ascorbic acid and arbutin (IC₅₀ , 245, 345 and 421 μmol/L, respectively). Western blot analysis revealed that although resveratrol decreased expressions of tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein 1, FRLFE did not affect their expressions. Both FRLFE and resveratrol suppressed antimycin A-mediated reactive oxygen species (ROS) production in melanocytic cells. Resveratrol-mediated ROS suppression was inhibited by nicotinamide, a SIRT1 inhibitor. However, FRLFE-mediated suppression was not affected by nicotinamide. Moreover, FRLFE directly decreased superoxide in vitro, as detected by superoxide dismutase-like scavenging activity assay. These results suggest that FRLFE can protect melanocytes from cytotoxicity caused by an excess amount of melanin and ROS in a different manner from resveratrol.

Tyrosinase inhibitory constituents from a polyphenol enriched fraction of rose oil distillation wastewater

During the water steam distillation process of rose flowers, the non-volatile phenolic compounds remain in the waste. We recently developed a strategy to separate rose oil distillation water (RODW) into a polyphenol depleted water fraction and a polyphenol enriched fraction (RF20-SP207). Bioassay-guided investigation of RF20-SP207 led to the isolation of quercetin, kaempferol and ellagic acid. Their structures were elucidated by spectroscopic analysis as well as by comparison with literature data. Tyrosinase inhibition studies were performed with RF20-SP207, fractions I-IV, and the isolated compounds of the most active fraction. RF20-SP207 strongly inhibited the enzyme with an IC50 of 0.41 μg/mL. From the tested fractions only fraction IV (IC50=5.81 μg/mL) exhibited strong anti-tyrosinase activities. Quercetin, kaempferol and ellagic acid were identified in fraction IV and inhibited mushroom tyrosinase with IC50 values of 4.2 μM, 5.5 μM and 5.2 μM, respectively, which is approximately 10 times more potent than that of the positive control kojic acid (56.1μM). The inhibition kinetics, analyzed by Lineweaver-Burk plots, indicated that RF20-SP207 and fraction IV are uncompetitive inhibitors of tyrosinase when l-tyrosine is used as a substrate. A mixed inhibition was determined for ellagic acid, and a competitive inhibition for quercetin and kaempferol. In conclusion, the recovered polyphenol fraction RF20-SP207 from RODW was found to be a potent tyrosinase inhibitor. This value-added product could be used as an active ingredient in cosmetic products related to hyperpigmentation.

Anti-Aging Potential of Phytoextract Loaded-Pharmaceutical Creams for Human Skin Cell Longetivity

The exposure to ultraviolet radiations (UVR) is the key source of skin sunburn; it may produce harmful entities, reactive oxygen species (ROS), leading to aging. The skin can be treated and protected from the injurious effects of ROS by using various pharmaceutical formulations, such as cream. Cream can be loaded with antioxidants to quench ROS leading to photo-protective effects. Moreover, modern medicines depend on ethnobotanicals for protection or treatment of human diseases. This review article summarizes various in vivo antioxidant studies on herbal creams loaded with phyto-extracts. These formulations may serve as cosmeceuticals to protect skin against injurious effects of UVR. The botanicals studied for dermatologic use in cream form include Acacia nilotica, Benincasa hispida, Calendula officinalis, Camellia sinensis, Camellia sinensis, Nelumbo nucifera, Capparis decidua, Castanea sativa, Coffea arabica, Crocus sativus, Emblica officinalis Gaertn, Foeniculum vulgare, Hippophae rhamnoides, Lithospermum erythrorhizon, Malus domestica, Matricaria chamomilla L., Moringa oleifera, Morus alba, Ocimum basilicum, Oryza sativa, Polygonum minus, Punica granatum, Silybum marianum, Tagetes erecta Linn., Terminalia chebula, Trigonella foenum-graecum, and Vitis vinifera. The observed anti-aging effects of cream formulations could be an outcome of a coordinating action of multiple constituents. Of numerous botanicals, the phenolic acids and flavonoids appear effective against UVR-induced damage; however the evidence-based studies for their anti-aging effects are still needed.

Environment-induced lentigines: formation of solar lentigines beyond ultraviolet radiation

There is no doubt that ultraviolet radiation (UVR) contributes to the generation of acquired lentigines in human skin, as indicated by the term solar lentigo. A growing number of recent epidemiological and mechanistic studies, however, strongly suggest that in addition to UVR, other environmental factors contribute to lentigines' formation as well. We therefore here introduce the term 'environment-induced lentigo' (EIL) to refer to acquired pigment spots of human skin. In this view point, we (i) summarize the existing evidence to support a role of environmental toxicants other than UVR in the pathogenesis of EILs, (ii) we argue that activation of aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AHR) signalling by UVR and environmental toxicants is critically involved in triggering and sustaining a crosstalk between melanocytes, keratinocytes and fibroblasts, which then causes the development and persistence of EILs in human skin, and (iii) we discuss clinical implications for the prevention and treatment of EILs resulting from this concept.

Omeprazole, a gastric proton pump inhibitor, inhibits melanogenesis by blocking ATP7A trafficking

Omeprazole is a proton pump inhibitor used in the treatment of peptic ulcer disease and gastrosophageal reflux disease and acts by irreversibly blocking ATP4A, a P-type H+/K+ ATPase in gastric parietal cells. We found that omeprazole and its closely related congeners inhibited melanogenesis at micromolar concentrations in B16 mouse melanoma cells, normal human epidermal melanocytes, and in a reconstructed human skin model. Omeprazole topically applied to the skin of UV-irradiated human subjects significantly reduced pigment levels after 3 weeks compared with untreated controls. Omeprazole had no significant inhibitory effect on the activities of purified human tyrosinase or on the mRNA levels of tyrosinase, dopachrome tautomerase, Pmel17, or MITF mRNA levels. Although melanocytes do not express ATP4A, they do express ATP7A, a copper transporting P-type ATPase in the trans-Golgi network that is required for copper acquisition by tyrosinase. ATP7A relocalization from the trans-Golgi network to the plasma membrane in response to elevated copper concentrations in melanocytes was inhibited by omeprazole. Omeprazole treatment increased the proportion of EndoH sensitive tyrosinase, indicating that tyrosinase maturation was impaired. In addition, omeprazole reduced tyrosinase protein abundance in the presence of cycloheximide, suggestive of increased degradation. Our findings are consistent with the hypothesis that omeprazole reduces melanogenesis by inhibiting ATP7A and by enhancing degradation of tyrosinase.

Topical tranexamic acid as a promising treatment for melasma

BACKGROUND

In recent times, tranexamic acid (TA) is claimed to have whitening effects especially for ultraviolet-induced hyperpigmentation including melasma. The aim of our study was to evaluate the efficacy and safety of topical solution of TA and compare it with combined solution of hydroquinone and dexamethasone as the gold standard treatment of melasma in Iranian women.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

This was a double-blind split-face trial of 12 weeks which was conducted in Isfahan, Iran. Fifty Iranian melasma patients applied topical solution of 3% TA on one side of the face, and topical solution of 3% hydroquinone + 0.01% dexamethasone on the other side two times a day. The Melasma Area and Severity Index (MASI) and the side effects were evaluated at baseline and every 4 weeks before and after photographs to be compared by a dermatologist were taken. The patient satisfaction was documented at week 12.

RESULTS

A repeated measurement analysis was used to evaluate the changes in the MASI score before and after treatments. A significant decreasing trend was observed in the MASI score of both groups with no significant difference between them during the study (P < 0.05). No differences were seen in patients' and investigator's satisfaction of melasma improvement between two groups (P < 0.05). However, the side effects of hydroquinone + dexamethasone were significantly prominent compared with TA (P = 0.01).

CONCLUSION

This study's results introduce the topical TA as an effective and safe medication for the treatment of melasma.

S-(-)-10,11-dihydroxyfarnesoic acid methyl ester inhibits melanin synthesis in murine melanocyte cells

The development of antimelanogenic agents is important for the prevention of serious aesthetic problems such as melasmas, freckles, age spots, and chloasmas. In the course of screening for melanin synthesis inhibitors, we found that the culture broth from an insect morphopathogenic fungus, Beauveria bassiana CS1029, exhibits potent antimelanogenic activity. We isolated and purified an active metabolite and identified it as S-(−)-10,11-dihydroxyfarnesoic acid methyl ester (dhFAME), an insect juvenile hormone. To address whether dhFAME inhibits melanin synthesis, we first measured the size of the melanin biosynthesis inhibition zone caused by dhFAME. dhFAME also showed inhibitory activity against mushroom tyrosinase in Melan-a cells. Intracellular, dose-dependent tyrosinase inhibition activity was also confirmed by zymography. In addition, we showed that dhFAME strongly inhibits melanin synthesis in Melan-a cells. Furthermore, we compared levels of TYR, TRP-1, TRP-2, MITF, and MC1R mRNA expression by reverse-transcription polymerase chain reaction and showed that treatment of Melan-a cells with 35 μM dhFAME led to an 11-fold decrease in TYR expression, a 6-fold decrease in TRP-2 expression, and a 5-fold decrease in MITF expression. Together, these results indicate that dhFAME is a potent inhibitor of melanin synthesis that can potentially be used for cosmetic biomaterial(s).

An integral topical gel for cellulite reduction: results from a double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled evaluation of efficacy

BACKGROUND

Cellulite is a serious cosmetic concern for most of the 90% of women affected by it.

OBJECTIVE

To assess the clinical efficacy of a complex integral anti-cellulite gel.

METHODS

This double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled study involved 44 healthy women, aged 25-55 years. Subjects had a normal to slightly overweight body mass index and presented slight to moderate cellulite on their thighs, buttocks, and/or hips at baseline. Subjects were randomly assigned to either the treated or placebo group and accordingly applied the active product or placebo on their hips, stomach, buttocks, and thighs, twice daily for 3 months. Skin tonicity, orange-peel aspect, and stubborn cellulite were assessed at day 0, 28, 56, and 84. A self-evaluation questionnaire was completed by all volunteers.

RESULTS

At the end of the study, an average of 81% of the subjects applying the active product presented improvement in their cellulite condition versus 32% for the placebo group (all descriptors and sites combined). At day 84, skin tonicity, orange-peel appearance, and stubborn cellulite were improved in a significant manner (P<0.05) over placebo, on all studied areas. Skin tonicity improved on average by +41% for buttocks, +35% for hips, and +31% for thighs. Orange peel appearance was reduced on average by -25% for buttocks, -22% for hips, and -22% for thighs. Stubborn cellulite was reduced on average by -19% for buttocks, -24% for hips, and -22% for thighs. Circumference measurements decreased in a significant manner (P<0.05) over placebo, for the abdomen (average value of -1.1 cm) and thighs (average value of -0.8 cm). The product was well tolerated and perceived by the volunteers themselves as better performing than placebo on all criteria.

CONCLUSION

All results validate the efficacy of the present integral formulation to significantly reduce signs of cellulite and reshape the silhouette.

Inhibitory effect of phthalic Acid on tyrosinase: the mixed-type inhibition and docking simulations

Tyrosinase inhibition studies are needed due to the medicinal applications such as hyperpigmentation. For probing effective inhibitors of tyrosinase, a combination of computational prediction and enzymatic assay via kinetics was important. We predicted the 3D structure of tyrosinase, used a docking algorithm to simulate binding between tyrosinase and phthalic acid (PA), and studied the reversible inhibition of tyrosinase by PA. PA inhibited tyrosinase in a mixed-type manner with a K_i = 65.84 ± 1.10 mM. Measurements of intrinsic and ANS-binding fluorescences showed that PA induced changes in the active site structure via indirect binding. Simulation was successful (binding energies for Dock6.3 = −27.22 and AutoDock4.2 = −0.97 kcal/mol), suggesting that PA interacts with LEU73 residue that is predicted commonly by both programs. The present study suggested that the strategy of predicting tyrosinase inhibition based on hydroxyl groups and orientation may prove useful for screening of potential tyrosinase inhibitors.