A Potential Role of Keratinocyte-Derived Bilirubin in Human Skin Yellowness and Its Amelioration by Sucrose Laurate/Dilaurate

Identification of Yellow Advanced Glycation End Products in Human Skin

Skin yellowness is a hallmark of dull or unhealthy skin, particularly among Asians. Previous research has indicated a link between skin glycation and skin yellowness. However, the specific glycated chemicals contributing to yellowish skin appearance have not been identified yet. Using HPLC-PDA-HRMS coupled with native and artificially glycated human epidermal explant skin, we identified intensely yellow colored glycated chromophores "(1R, 8aR) and (1S, 8aR)-4-(2-furyl)-7-[(2-furyl)-methylidene]-2-hydroxy-2H,7H,8AH-pyrano-[2,3-B]-pyran-3-one" (abbreviated as AGEY) from human skin samples for the first time. The abundance of AGEY was strongly correlated with skin yellowness in the multiple skin explant tissues. We further confirmed the presence of AGEY in cultured human keratinocytes and 3D reconstructed human epidermal (RHE) models. Additionally, we demonstrated that a combination of four cosmetic compounds with anti-glycation properties can inhibit the formation of AGEY and reduce yellowness in the RHE models. In conclusion, we have identified specific advanced glycation end products with an intense yellow color, namely AGEY, in human skin tissues for the first time. The series of study results highlighted the significant contribution of AGEY to the yellow appearance of the skin. Furthermore, we have identified a potential cosmetic solution to mitigate AGEY formation, leading to a reduction in yellowness in the in vitro RHE models.

Facial Skin Aging Characteristics of the Old-Perceived Age in a 20-40 Years Old Chinese Female Population

Purpose

In the quest for a youthful appearance, women use a variety of anti- aging cosmetics. Defining skin problems is especially important for the selection of anti-aging solutions. However, the skin problems faced by Chinese women at different ages are different. This study aimed at Chinese women aged 20-40 years old and analyzed facial skin aging characteristics of those with old-perceived age.

Patients and Methods

The total of 400 standard facial photographs from Chinese female volunteers aged 20-40 was assessed by another 126 Chinese women. The facial areas and skin aging characteristics that influenced age estimation were collected at the same time. Skin aging characteristics, including wrinkles, skin tone, pigmentation and pores, were analyzed based on facial photographs. Groupings were made based on deviation of perceived age from chronological age, and skin aging characteristics among groups were compared.

Results

The perceived age of Chinese women aged 20-40 has a moderate correlation with chronological age. Women aged 20-30 generally had an old-perceived age. Deep skin tone was a prominent problem in this age group, with those who had the older-perceived age observed the darker and redder skin tone. Women aged 31-40 were perceived partly old but appeared with wrinkle aggravation, as well as deepening of redness, enlarged pores, and increased pigmentation at the mid-face. The perceived older women also had more visible frown lines and darker skin tone at the upper face.

Conclusion

The perceived age of Chinese women aged 20-40 tends to deviate from their chronological age. Women aged 20-30 with old-perceived age are associated with deep skin tone, even found darker and redder in older-perceived women group, while women aged 31-40 are associated with wrinkles and deterioration at mid-face area and upper-face problems drive more attention in older-perceived women group.

Skin Color Analysis of Various Body Parts (Forearm, Upper Arm, Elbow, Knee, and Shin) and Changes with Age in 53 Korean Women, Considering Intrinsic and Extrinsic Factors

Background/Objectives: Skin color is innately determined by race and other genetic factors, and it also undergoes acquired changes due to various intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Previous studies on skin color have mainly focused on the face, and research has recently expanded to other body parts. However, there is limited information about the age-dependent changes in the skin color of these body parts. The purpose of this study is to analyze the differences in skin color between various body parts and the changes in skin color of each body part with age. Methods: This study examined the skin color of 53 Korean women subjects evenly distributed in age from the 20s to 60s on several body parts: forearm, upper arm, elbow (extended or folded), knee (extended or folded), thigh, and shin. The lightness (L*), redness (a*), and yellowness (b*) were measured using a spectrophotometer, and the individual typology angle (ITA°) was calculated from the L* and b* values. The melanin index and erythema index were measured using the mexameter. Results: The results showed that the elbow skin had the lowest L* and ITA° values and the highest a* and b* values among the examined body parts, followed by the knee. The melanin index and erythema index were also high in the skin of these body parts. In the analysis of age-dependent changes in the skin color of various body parts, the forearm skin exhibited the most notable decrease in the L* and ITA° values and increases in the a* and b* values, followed by upper-arm skin. The melanin and erythema indices in the forearm also increased as the subjects aged, whereas those in the elbow and knee rather decreased with age. Conclusions: This study suggests that differences in intrinsic and extrinsic skin aging in various body parts may be expressed as different changes in skin color and raises the need for cosmetic and dermatological research to identify the physiological significance of these changes.

Regulation of Epidermal Ferritin Expression Influences Systemic Iron Homeostasis

Absorption of dietary iron is largely regulated by the liver hormone hepcidin, which is released under conditions of iron overload and inflammation. Although hepcidin-dependent regulation of iron uptake and circulation is well-characterized, recent studies have suggested that the skin may play an important role in iron homeostasis, including transferrin receptor-mediated epidermal iron uptake and direct hepcidin production by keratinocytes. In this study, we characterized direct keratinocyte responses to conditions of high and low iron. We observed potent iron storage capacity by keratinocytes in vitro and in vivo and the effects of iron on epidermal differentiation and gene expression associated with inflammation and barrier function. In mice, systemic iron was observed to be coupled to epidermal iron content. Furthermore, topical inflammation, as opposed to systemic inflammation, resulted in a primary iron-deficiency phenotype associated with low liver hepcidin. These studies suggest a role for keratinocytes and epidermal iron storage as regulators of iron homeostasis with direct contribution by the cutaneous inflammatory state.

Development of a method for evaluating skin dullness: A mathematical model explaining dullness by the color, optical properties, and microtopography of the skin

BACKGROUND

Skin dullness has long been a major concern of Japanese women. It is usually evaluated and judged visually by experts. Although several factors are recognized to play a role, it is unclear to what extent such physiological characteristics contribute to skin dullness. The purpose of this study is to establish an objective method for evaluation, which will assist in developing cosmetics products targeting skin dullness.

METHODS

We conducted a skin measurement study on 50 Japanese women in their 30-50s, where skin dullness was visually assessed by a group of experts to obtain an average dullness score, and several skin parameters were obtained. We then developed a regression model that explains the visual assessment score using these physiological parameters.

RESULTS

The results of partial least squares analysis of the dullness perception and physiological characteristics showed that skin dullness can be defined by colorimetric, optical, and skin surface microtopography parameters. Additionally, the contribution of each parameter to the model was determined. Our results suggest that dullness perception is highly affected by the melanin content and yellowness of the skin, followed by skin reddishness, roughness, and translucency score, whereas glossiness has less effect. Strikingly, the contribution ratio of each parameter varied among age groups. Furthermore, we confirmed that the predicted value of skin dullness increases with age.

CONCLUSION

Our results will help the design of cosmetics targeting factors specific to age groups in developing effective solutions for skin dullness.

Sleep Deprivation Increases Facial Skin Yellowness

Sleep shortage is a major concern in modern life and induces various psycho-physical disorders, including skin problems. In cosmeceutics, females are aware that sleep deprivation worsens their facial skin tone. Here, we measured the effects of sleep deprivation on facial skin yellowness and examined yellow chromophores, such as bilirubin and carotenoids, in blood serum as potential causes of yellowness. Total sleep deprivation (0 h sleep overnight, N = 28) and repeated partial sleep deprivation (4 h sleep for 5 consecutive days, N = 10) induced significant increases in facial skin yellowness. The higher yellowness was sustained even after both sleep deprivation types stopped. However, circulating levels of yellow chromophores were unchanged in the total sleep deprivation study. Neither circulating interleukin-6 nor urinary biopyrrin levels were affected by total sleep deprivation, suggesting that apparent oxidative stress in the body was not detected in the present total deprivation protocol. Facial redness was affected by neither total nor repeated partial sleep deprivation. Therefore, blood circulation may play a limited role in elevated yellowness. In conclusion, facial skin yellowness was indeed increased by sleep deprivation in our clinical studies. Local in situ skin-derived factors, rather than systemic chromophore change, may contribute to the sleep deprivation-induced elevation of facial skin yellowness.

Transcriptomic Analysis of Human Keratinocytes Treated with Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate, a Beneficial Cosmetic Ingredient

Galactomyces ferment filtrate (GFF, Pitera™) is a cosmetic ingredient known to have multiple skin care benefits, such as reducing redness and pore size via the topical application of its moisturizer form. Although GFF is known to act partly as an antioxidative agonist for the aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AHR), its significance in keratinocyte biology is not fully understood. In this study, we conducted a transcriptomic analysis of GFF-treated human keratinocytes. Three different lots of GFF consistently modulated 99 (22 upregulated and 77 downregulated) genes, including upregulating cytochrome P450 1A1 (CYP1A1), a specific downstream gene for AHR activation. GFF also enhanced the expression of epidermal differentiation/barrier-related genes, such as small proline-rich proteins 1A and 1B (SPRR1A and SPRR1B), as well as wound healing-related genes such as serpin B2 (SERPINB2). Genes encoding components of tight junctions claudin-1 (CLDN1) and claudin-4 (CLDN4) were also target genes upregulated in the GFF-treated keratinocytes. In contrast, the three lots of GFF consistently downregulated the expression of inflammation-related genes such as chemokine (C-X-C motif) ligand 14 (CXCL14) and interleukin-6 receptor (IL6R). These results highlight the beneficial properties of GFF in maintaining keratinocyte homeostasis.