Innovative Natural Ingredients-Based Multiple Emulsions: The Effect on Human Skin Moisture, Sebum Content, Pore Size and Pigmentation

Novel Arena of Nanocosmetics: Applications and their Remarkable Contribution in the Management of Dermal Disorders, Topical Delivery, Future Trends and Challenges

Nanocosmetics have attracted a considerable audience towards natural care due to their low cost, target-specific delivery, and reduced toxicity compared to chemical-based cosmetics. Nanofomulations, including nanoemulsions, nanotubes, and polymeric carriers, have become next-generation products explored for the multifaced applications of nanotechnology in skin care. The rise in the cosmetic industry demands innovative and personalized products designed using nanocarriers for better targeting and improving patient compliance. Furthermore, nanocosmetics increase the efficiency of skin permeation active ingredient entrapment, providing better UV protection. Moreover, it offers controlled drug release, targeting active sites and enhancing physical stability. Further, overcoming the drawback of penetration problems makes them sustainable formulations for precision medicine. Skincare nourishment with nanocosmetics using Indian spices helps to maintain, beautify, and rejuvenate human skin. Nanophytopharmaceuticals extracted from plants, including alkaloids, flavonoids, antioxidants, and volatile oils, are essential phyto-products for skin care. Nano herbals and nanocosmetics are a growing market and gift of nature that nourishes and cures skin ailments like acne, pemphigus, anti-aging, albinism, psoriasis, and fungal infections. The emerging concern is highlighted in the investigation of nanoformulation toxicity and safety concerns in skin care. Further, it helps to manifest research, development, and innovation in expanding the scope of herbal industries.

Rutin bioconjugates as potential nutraceutical prodrugs: An in vitro and in ovo toxicological screening

Rutin (RUT) is considered one the most attractive flavonoids from a therapeutic perspective due to its multispectral pharmacological activities including antiradical, anti-inflammatory, antiproliferative, and antimetastatic among others. Still, this compound presents a low bioavailability what narrows its clinical applications. To overcome this inconvenience, the current paper was focused on the synthesis, characterization, and toxicological assessment of two RUT bioconjugates obtained by enzymatic esterification with oleic acid (OA) and linoleic acid (LA)—rutin oleate (RUT-O) and rutin linoleate (RUT-L), as flavonoid precursors with improved physicochemical and biological properties. Following the enzymatic synthesis in the presence of Novozyme® 435, the two bioconjugates were obtained, their formation being confirmed by RAMAN and FT-IR spectroscopy. The in vitro and in ovo toxicological assessment of RUT bioconjugates (1–100 µM) was performed using 2D consecrated cell lines (cardiomyoblasts - H9c2(2-1), hepatocytes—HepaRG, and keratinocytes—HaCaT), 3D reconstructed human epidermis tissue (EpiDerm™), and chick chorioallantoic membranes, respectively. The results obtained were test compound, concentration—and cell-type dependent, as follows: RUT-O reduced the viability of H9c2(2-1), HepaRG, and HaCaT cells at 100 µM (to 77.53%, 83.17%, and 78.32%, respectively), and induced cell rounding and floating, as well as apoptotic-like features in the nuclei of all cell lines, whereas RUT-L exerted no signs of cytotoxicity in all cell lines in terms of cell viability, morphology, and nuclear integrity. Both RUT esters impaired the migration of HepaRG cells (at 25 µM) and lack irritative potential (at 100 µM) in vitro (tissue viability >50%) and in ovo (irritation scores of 0.70 for RUT-O, and 0.49 for RUT-L, respectively). Computational predictions revealed an increased lipophilicity, and reduced solubility, drug-likeness and drug score of RUT-O and RUT-L compared to their parent compounds—RUT, OA, and LA. In conclusion, we report a favorable toxicological profile for RUT-L, while RUT-O is dosage-limited since at high concentrations were noticed cytotoxic effects.

Orobol from enzyme biotransformation attenuates Dermatophagoides farinae-induced atopic dermatitis-like symptoms in NC/Nga mice

Orobol, a metabolite of genistein, is rare in natural soybean. Several studies have revealed the immune-controlling effects of orobol on inflammatory diseases. Furthermore, a few studies have demonstrated that orobol decreases pro-inflammatory compounds resulting in the alleviation of allergic reactions. However, the relationship between orobol and atopic dermatitis (AD) in animal models has not been revealed. Therefore, we sought to investigate the effects of orobol on AD-like symptoms. AD-like symptoms and skin lesions were induced by repeated topical application of Dermatophagoides farinae extract (DFE) on the skin of NC/Nga mice. Topical application of orobol attenuated DFE-induced AD-like symptoms and transepidermal water loss and increased skin hydration. Histopathological analysis revealed that orobol alleviated DFE-induced eosinophil and mast cell infiltration into the skin. These observations occurred concomitantly with the downregulation of inflammatory markers including serum TARC, MDC, and IgE. In addition, orobol alleviated dorsal Th2 cytokines such as IL-4 and IL-13. Pre-treatment of orobol decreased the activity of the MAPKs and NF-κB signalling cascade in the TNFα/IFNγ-induced HaCaT cell line. These results suggest that orobol, a natural dietary isoflavone, has therapeutic efficacy for the prevention and treatment of AD.

Engineering in vitro immune-competent tissue models for testing and evaluation of therapeutics

Advances in 3D cell culture, microscale fluidic control, and cellular analysis have enabled the development of more physiologically-relevant engineered models of human organs with precise control of the cellular microenvironment. Engineered models have been used successfully to answer fundamental biological questions and to screen therapeutics, but these often neglect key elements of the immune system. There are immune elements in every tissue that contribute to healthy and diseased states. Including immune function will be essential for effective preclinical testing of therapeutics for inflammatory and immune-modulated diseases. In this review, we first discuss the key components to consider in designing engineered immune-competent models in terms of physical, chemical, and biological cues. Next, we review recent applications of models of immunity for screening therapeutics for cancer, preclinical evaluation of engineered T cells, modeling autoimmunity, and screening vaccine efficacy. Future work is needed to further recapitulate immune responses in engineered models for the most informative therapeutic screening and evaluation.

Advantages of Hyaluronic Acid and Its Combination with Other Bioactive Ingredients in Cosmeceuticals

This study proposes a review on hyaluronic acid (HA) known as hyaluronan or hyaluronate and its derivates and their application in cosmetic formulations. HA is a glycosaminoglycan constituted from two disaccharides (N-acetylglucosamine and D-glucuronic acid), isolated initially from the vitreous humour of the eye, and subsequently discovered in different tissues or fluids (especially in the articular cartilage and the synovial fluid). It is ubiquitous in vertebrates, including humans, and it is involved in diverse biological processes, such as cell differentiation, embryological development, inflammation, wound healing, etc. HA has many qualities that recommend it over other substances used in skin regeneration, with moisturizing and anti-ageing effects. HA molecular weight influences its penetration into the skin and its biological activity. Considering that, nowadays, hyaluronic acid has a wide use and a multitude of applications (in ophthalmology, arthrology, pneumology, rhinology, aesthetic medicine, oncology, nutrition, and cosmetics), the present study describes the main aspects related to its use in cosmetology. The biological effect of HA on the skin level and its potential adverse effects are discussed. Some available cosmetic products containing HA have been identified from the brand portfolio of most known manufacturers and their composition was evaluated. Further, additional biological effects due to the other active ingredients (plant extracts, vitamins, amino acids, peptides, proteins, saccharides, probiotics, etc.) are presented, as well as a description of their possible toxic effects.

In Vitro and Clinical Safety Assessment of the Multiple W/O/W Emulsion Based on the Active Ingredients from Rosmarinus officinalis L., Avena sativa L. and Linum usitatissimum L

The multiple W/O/W emulsion supplemented with the extracts of Rosmarinus officinalis L., Avena sativa L. and Linum usitatissimum L. was prepared in the study, its active compounds were determined by HPLC and its safety was evaluated in vitro by the means of reconstituted human skin model EpiDerm™ for the assessment of its irritation, phototoxicity and early skin inflammation effects and by the 48 h human skin patch test for its skin irritation and allergenic potential. The microbiological challenge test of W/O/W emulsion was performed to ensure its preservation efficiency. The results showed that the W/O/W emulsion loaded with self-preserving plant-based bio-actives had no irritant potential, was not phototoxic and did not provoke skin inflammation or sensitization and thus could be used as a safe base for cosmetic products. Furthermore, our results demonstrate that the safety evaluation of cosmetic ingredients of natural or organic origin could be easily performed using reconstructed human skin model EpiDerm™ similar to the well-defined chemicals used in the cosmetics industry.

The Protective Effect of Rosmarinic Acid Against Unfavorable Influence of Methylparaben and Propylparaben on Collagen in Human Skin Fibroblasts

Parabens, which are widely used in food, medicines and cosmetics, have a harmful effect on human health. People are most exposed to parabens transdermally by using cosmetic products containing these preservatives. The purpose of this study was to estimate the influence of parabens (methylparaben-MP and propylparaben-PP) on the metabolism of collagen in the human skin fibroblasts and above all, to assess whether rosmarinic acid (RA-50, 100, or 150 M) can protect these cells from the adverse effects of parabens (0.001% MP and 0.0003% PP, 0.003% MP and 0.001% PP, and ​​0.01% MP and 0.003% PP). The possible mechanisms of RA action were estimated as well. Parabens decreased the expression of collagen type I and III at mRNA and protein levels, while RA (depending on the concentration) provided partial or total protection against these changes. The effective protection against the adverse effects of parabens on cell viability and proliferation was also provided by RA. The beneficial impact of RA on collagen and the fibroblasts resulted from an independent action of this compound and its interaction with parabens. This study allows us to conclude that this polyphenolic compound may protect from unfavorable health outcomes caused by lifetime human exposure to parabens contained in cosmetic products.

Encapsulating plant ingredients for dermocosmetic application: an updated review of delivery systems and characterization techniques

Today, there is a rising demand and ongoing search for novel plant-derived phytochemicals in the cosmetic market owing to the growing consumer expectations worldwide for green and natural health products. Various plant ingredients, including polyphenols, oils, volatile oils, vitamins and other herbal extracts, have been extensively used in herbal cosmetics. Recent advances in encapsulation technologies have greatly improved their chemical stability, biocompatibility, skin permeability and dermocosmetic efficiency when applied topically. This comprehensive review summarizes the up-to-date information on encapsulated plant ingredients tailored for dermocosmetic application with a focus on the development of novel delivery systems. An overview of the commonly used techniques for carrier characterization, performance-related properties and toxicological evaluation is also included, which might provide guidance for researchers to select or develop appropriate assay systems.

Direct mapping of hydrangea blue-complex in sepal tissues of Hydrangea macrophylla

The original sepal color of Hydrangea macrophylla is blue, although it is well known that sepal color easily changes from blue through purple to red. All the colors are due to a unique anthocyanin, 3-O-glucosyldelphinidin, and both aluminum ion (Al³⁺) and copigments, 5-O-caffeoyl and/or 5-O-p-coumaroylquinic acid are essential for blue coloration. A mixture of 3-O-glucosyldelphinidin, 5-O-acylquinic acid, and Al³⁺ in a buffer solution at pH 4 produces a stable blue solution with visible absorption and circular dichroism spectra identical to those of the sepals, then, we named this blue pigment as ‘hydrangea blue-complex’. The hydrangea blue-complex consists of 3-O-glucosyldelphinidin, Al³⁺, and 5-O-acylquinic acid in a ratio 1:1:1 as determined by the electrospray ionization time-of-flight mass spectrometry and nuclear magnetic resonance spectra. To map the distribution of hydrangea blue-complex in sepal tissues, we carried out cryo-time-of-flight secondary ion mass spectrometry analysis. The spectrum of the reproduced hydrangea blue-complex with negative mode-detection gave a molecular ion at m/z = 841, which was consistent with the results of ESI-TOF MS. The same molecular ion peak at m/z = 841 was detected in freeze-fixed blue sepal-tissue. In sepal tissues, the blue cells were located in the second layer and the mass spectrometry imaging of the ion attributable to hydrangea blue-complex overlapped with the same area of the blue cells. In colorless epidermal cells, atomic ion of Al³⁺ was hardly detected and potassium adduct ion of 5-O-caffeoyl and/or 3-O-acylquinic acid were found. This is the first report about the distribution of aluminum, potassium, hydrangea blue-complex, and copigment in sepal tissues and the first evidence that aluminum and hydrangea blue-complex exist in blue sepal cells and are involved in blue coloration.