Microextraction of Reseda luteola-Dyed Wool and Qualitative Analysis of Its Flavones by UHPLC-UV, NMR and MS

Development of a Combined Protein and Dye Extraction Approach for the Analysis of Keratin-Based Textiles

Archaeological textiles represent precious remains from ancient culture; this is because of the historical and cultural importance of the information that can be obtained by such relics. However, the extremely complicated state of preservation of these textiles, which can be charred, partially or totally mineralized, with heavy soil or biological contamination, requires highly specialized and sensitive analytical tools to perform a comprehensive study. Starting from these considerations, the paper presents a combined workflow that provides the extraction of dyes and keratins and keratin-associated proteins in a single step, minimizing sampling while maximizing the amount of information gained. In the first phase, different approaches were tested and two different protocols were found suitable for the purpose of the unique workflow for dyes/keratin-proteins: a slightly modified urea protocol and a recently proposed new TCEP/CAA procedure. In the second step, after the extraction, different methods of cleanup and workflow for proteins and dyes were investigated to develop protocols that did not result in a loss of aliquots of the analytes of interest and to maximize the recovery of both components from the extracting solution. These protocols investigated the application of two types of paramagnetic beads, unmodified and carboxylate-coated hydrophilic magnetic beads, and dialysis and stage-tip protocols. The newly designed protocols have been applied to cochineal, weld, orchil, kermes, and indigo keratin-based dyed samples to evaluate the effectiveness of the protocols on several dye sources. These protocols, based on a single extraction step, show the possibility of investigating dyes and keratins from a unique sample of 1 mg or lesser, with respect to the thresholds of sensitivity and accuracy required in the study of textile artifacts of historical and artistic values.

Noninvasive Characterization and Quantification of Anthraquinones in Dyed Woolen Threads by Visible Diffuse Reflectance Spectroscopy

The anthraquinone components of the roots of various species of madder (like Rubia tinctorum L. and Rubia peregrina L.) have been used for millennia as red colorants in textiles, carpets, tapestries, and other objects. To understand the selection and preparation of dyestuffs in various cultures and historical periods, these dyes (mainly alizarin and purpurin) are traditionally analyzed by means of separation methods that require sampling. This contribution focuses on establishing a fast, noninvasive, and in situ analytical procedure based on visible reflectance spectroscopy for the characterization and quantification of anthraquinones in ancient wool yarns. The method was successfully applied to Coptic textiles, and the analytical results are in agreement with prior observations obtained on samples by separation techniques.

Identification of Dyes in Coptic Textiles from the Museum of Faculty of Archaeology, Cairo University

High Performance Liquid Chromatography coupled to a Diode-Array-Detector (HPLC-DAD) is used to investigate samples which were extracted from ancient Egyptian textiles (4th–5th c. AD) of the Museum of Faculty of Archaeology, Cairo University. Madder is identified in several samples. According to semi-quantitative results, which are obtained from HPLC peak areas measured at 254 nm, madder that is rich in purpurin and poor in alizarin is identified in samples which were treated (i) only with madder and (ii) with madder and either indigo/woad (Indigofera species and other/Isatis tinctoria L.) or weld (Reseda luteola L.). The madder dye used in these samples could have been originated from Rubia peregrina L. However, the possible use of Rubia tinctorum L. (or other plants of the Rubiaceae family) by the Egyptian dyers cannot be ruled out, particularly if methods were developed by the ancient dyers to affect and control the relative composition of madder dye. The HPLC peak area ratio of alizarin versus purpurin is very high (>2.2) for samples which were treated with madder (probably originated from R. tinctorum) and a tannin source. Finally, in some samples, only indigoid dyes (indigo/woad) are identified.