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Castro ML, Azevedo-Silva J, Valente D, Machado A, Ribeiro T, Ferreira JP, Pintado M, Ramos OL, Borges S, Baptista-Silva S. Elevating Skincare Science: Grape Seed Extract Encapsulation for Dermatological Care. Molecules 2024; 29:3717. [PMID: 39202797 PMCID: PMC11357433 DOI: 10.3390/molecules29163717] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 07/02/2024] [Revised: 08/02/2024] [Accepted: 08/03/2024] [Indexed: 09/03/2024] Open
Abstract
The skin is the largest organ in the human body and serves multiple functions such as barrier protection and thermoregulation. The maintenance of its integrity and healthy structure is of paramount importance. Accordingly, technological advances in cosmetic sciences have been directed towards optimizing these factors. Plant-derived ingredients have been explored for their bioactivity profiles and sustainable sources. Grape by-products contain a group of bioactive molecules that display important biological activities. Nonetheless, many of these molecules (e.g., phenolic compounds) are unstable and susceptible to degradation. So, their encapsulation using nano/microsystems (i.e., microdispersions) has been explored as a promising solution. In this work, two grape seed extracts were obtained, one from a single grape variety (GSE-Ov) and another from a mix of five grape varieties (GSE-Sv). These extracts were analysed for their antioxidant and antimicrobial activities, as well as their chemical composition and molecular structure. The extract that showed the most promising properties was GSE-Ov with a DPPH IC50 of 0.079 mg mL-1. This extract was encapsulated in soy lecithin microdispersions coated with pectin, with an encapsulation efficiency of 88.8%. They showed an in vitro release of polyphenols of 59.4% during 24 h. The particles displayed a zeta potential of -20.3 mV and an average diameter of 13.6 µm. Microdispersions proved to be safe under 5 and 2.5 mg mL-1 in HaCaT and HDF cell models, respectively. Additionally, they demonstrated anti-inflammatory activity against IL-1α when tested at 2 mg mL-1. This work enabled the valorisation of a by-product from the wine industry by using natural extracts in skincare products.
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Affiliation(s)
- Maria Leonor Castro
- CBQF—Centro de Biotecnologia e Química Fina—Laboratório Associado, Escola Superior de Biotecnologia, Universidade Católica Portuguesa, Rua Diogo Botelho 1327, 4169-005 Porto, Portugal; (M.L.C.); (J.A.-S.); (D.V.); (A.M.); (T.R.); (J.P.F.); (M.P.); (O.L.R.); (S.B.)
| | - João Azevedo-Silva
- CBQF—Centro de Biotecnologia e Química Fina—Laboratório Associado, Escola Superior de Biotecnologia, Universidade Católica Portuguesa, Rua Diogo Botelho 1327, 4169-005 Porto, Portugal; (M.L.C.); (J.A.-S.); (D.V.); (A.M.); (T.R.); (J.P.F.); (M.P.); (O.L.R.); (S.B.)
- Amyris Bio Products Portugal, Unipessoal Lda, Rua Diogo Botelho 1327, 4169-005 Porto, Portugal
| | - Diana Valente
- CBQF—Centro de Biotecnologia e Química Fina—Laboratório Associado, Escola Superior de Biotecnologia, Universidade Católica Portuguesa, Rua Diogo Botelho 1327, 4169-005 Porto, Portugal; (M.L.C.); (J.A.-S.); (D.V.); (A.M.); (T.R.); (J.P.F.); (M.P.); (O.L.R.); (S.B.)
- Amyris Bio Products Portugal, Unipessoal Lda, Rua Diogo Botelho 1327, 4169-005 Porto, Portugal
| | - Adriana Machado
- CBQF—Centro de Biotecnologia e Química Fina—Laboratório Associado, Escola Superior de Biotecnologia, Universidade Católica Portuguesa, Rua Diogo Botelho 1327, 4169-005 Porto, Portugal; (M.L.C.); (J.A.-S.); (D.V.); (A.M.); (T.R.); (J.P.F.); (M.P.); (O.L.R.); (S.B.)
- Associação CECOLAB, Laboratório Colaborativo para a Economia Circular, Centro Empresarial, Rua Nossa Senhora da Conceição, 2, Oliveira do Hospital, 3405-155 Coimbra, Portugal
| | - Tânia Ribeiro
- CBQF—Centro de Biotecnologia e Química Fina—Laboratório Associado, Escola Superior de Biotecnologia, Universidade Católica Portuguesa, Rua Diogo Botelho 1327, 4169-005 Porto, Portugal; (M.L.C.); (J.A.-S.); (D.V.); (A.M.); (T.R.); (J.P.F.); (M.P.); (O.L.R.); (S.B.)
| | - João Paulo Ferreira
- CBQF—Centro de Biotecnologia e Química Fina—Laboratório Associado, Escola Superior de Biotecnologia, Universidade Católica Portuguesa, Rua Diogo Botelho 1327, 4169-005 Porto, Portugal; (M.L.C.); (J.A.-S.); (D.V.); (A.M.); (T.R.); (J.P.F.); (M.P.); (O.L.R.); (S.B.)
| | - Manuela Pintado
- CBQF—Centro de Biotecnologia e Química Fina—Laboratório Associado, Escola Superior de Biotecnologia, Universidade Católica Portuguesa, Rua Diogo Botelho 1327, 4169-005 Porto, Portugal; (M.L.C.); (J.A.-S.); (D.V.); (A.M.); (T.R.); (J.P.F.); (M.P.); (O.L.R.); (S.B.)
| | - Oscar L. Ramos
- CBQF—Centro de Biotecnologia e Química Fina—Laboratório Associado, Escola Superior de Biotecnologia, Universidade Católica Portuguesa, Rua Diogo Botelho 1327, 4169-005 Porto, Portugal; (M.L.C.); (J.A.-S.); (D.V.); (A.M.); (T.R.); (J.P.F.); (M.P.); (O.L.R.); (S.B.)
| | - Sandra Borges
- CBQF—Centro de Biotecnologia e Química Fina—Laboratório Associado, Escola Superior de Biotecnologia, Universidade Católica Portuguesa, Rua Diogo Botelho 1327, 4169-005 Porto, Portugal; (M.L.C.); (J.A.-S.); (D.V.); (A.M.); (T.R.); (J.P.F.); (M.P.); (O.L.R.); (S.B.)
| | - Sara Baptista-Silva
- CBQF—Centro de Biotecnologia e Química Fina—Laboratório Associado, Escola Superior de Biotecnologia, Universidade Católica Portuguesa, Rua Diogo Botelho 1327, 4169-005 Porto, Portugal; (M.L.C.); (J.A.-S.); (D.V.); (A.M.); (T.R.); (J.P.F.); (M.P.); (O.L.R.); (S.B.)
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Teixeira F, Costa PT, Vidigal SS, Pintado M, Pimentel LL, Rodríguez-Alcalá LM. Toward Sustainable Wax Extraction from the Saccharum officinarum L. Filter Cake Byproduct: Process Optimization, Physicochemical Characterization, and Antioxidant Performance. ACS SUSTAINABLE CHEMISTRY & ENGINEERING 2023; 11:13415-13428. [PMID: 37711765 PMCID: PMC10498761 DOI: 10.1021/acssuschemeng.3c03279] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Figures] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 06/01/2023] [Revised: 08/16/2023] [Indexed: 09/16/2023]
Abstract
Saccharum officinarum L. exploitation and processing result in different byproducts, such as filter cake (FC). This study aimed to establish the most suitable experimental conditions to obtain lipophilic bioactive compounds from FC industrial residues, considering their high efficiency, cost-effectiveness, extraction yield, composition, and physicochemical properties. Results indicated that the most appropriate methodology consisted of the pretreatment of the FC sample with H2SO4, followed by ethanolic extraction (B6 method), avoiding energy-consumption FC drying steps and providing ethanol recovery (approx. 90%). The obtained B6 extract yield was 9.59 ± 0.27 g/100 g of FC dry weight, and this methodology proved to be more efficient in obtaining fatty alcohols (20.28 ± 1.48 g/kg extract) and phytosterols (31.56 ± 0.18 g/kg extract) while maintaining lower total monosaccharide concentration (26.19 ± 1.82 mg/g extract). Furthermore, the geographically related multivariate analysis in wax composition and antioxidant activity was evaluated by comparing B6 waxes from Guariba (G) and Univalem (U), both provided by Brazil and collected in June 2020. Overall, the wax composition is affected, but the antioxidant activity is uncompromised, which indicates that the optimized wax extraction method can be applied to FC.
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Affiliation(s)
- Francisca
S. Teixeira
- CBQF—Centro de Biotecnologia
e Química Fina—Laboratório Associado, Escola
Superior de Biotecnologia, Universidade
Católica Portuguesa, Rua Diogo Botelho 1327, 4169-005 Porto, Portugal
| | - Paula T. Costa
- CBQF—Centro de Biotecnologia
e Química Fina—Laboratório Associado, Escola
Superior de Biotecnologia, Universidade
Católica Portuguesa, Rua Diogo Botelho 1327, 4169-005 Porto, Portugal
| | - Susana S. Vidigal
- CBQF—Centro de Biotecnologia
e Química Fina—Laboratório Associado, Escola
Superior de Biotecnologia, Universidade
Católica Portuguesa, Rua Diogo Botelho 1327, 4169-005 Porto, Portugal
| | - Manuela Pintado
- CBQF—Centro de Biotecnologia
e Química Fina—Laboratório Associado, Escola
Superior de Biotecnologia, Universidade
Católica Portuguesa, Rua Diogo Botelho 1327, 4169-005 Porto, Portugal
| | - Lígia L. Pimentel
- CBQF—Centro de Biotecnologia
e Química Fina—Laboratório Associado, Escola
Superior de Biotecnologia, Universidade
Católica Portuguesa, Rua Diogo Botelho 1327, 4169-005 Porto, Portugal
| | - Luís M. Rodríguez-Alcalá
- CBQF—Centro de Biotecnologia
e Química Fina—Laboratório Associado, Escola
Superior de Biotecnologia, Universidade
Católica Portuguesa, Rua Diogo Botelho 1327, 4169-005 Porto, Portugal
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Duarte M, Carvalho MJ, de Carvalho NM, Azevedo-Silva J, Mendes A, Ribeiro IP, Fernandes JC, Oliveira ALS, Oliveira C, Pintado M, Amaro A, Madureira AR. Skincare potential of a sustainable postbiotic extract produced through sugarcane straw fermentation by Saccharomyces cerevisiae. Biofactors 2023; 49:1038-1060. [PMID: 37317790 DOI: 10.1002/biof.1975] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Submit a Manuscript] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 02/13/2023] [Accepted: 05/14/2023] [Indexed: 06/16/2023]
Abstract
Postbiotics are defined as a "preparation of inanimate microorganisms and/or their components that confers a health benefit on the host." They can be produced by fermentation, using culture media with glucose (carbon source), and lactic acid bacteria of the genus Lactobacillus, and/or yeast, mainly Saccharomyces cerevisiae as fermentative microorganisms. Postbiotics comprise different metabolites, and have important biological properties (antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, etc.), thus their cosmetic application should be considered. During this work, the postbiotics production was carried out by fermentation with sugarcane straw, as a source of carbon and phenolic compounds, and as a sustainable process to obtain bioactive extracts. For the production of postbiotics, a saccharification process was carried out with cellulase at 55°C for 24 h. Fermentation was performed sequentially after saccharification at 30°C, for 72 h, using S. cerevisiae. The cells-free extract was characterized regarding its composition, antioxidant activity, and skincare potential. Its use was safe at concentrations below ~20 mg mL-1 (extract's dry weight in deionized water) for keratinocytes and ~ 7.5 mg mL-1 for fibroblasts. It showed antioxidant activity, with ABTS IC50 of 1.88 mg mL-1 , and inhibited elastase and tyrosinase activities by 83.4% and 42.4%, respectively, at the maximum concentration tested (20 mg mL-1 ). In addition, it promoted the production of cytokeratin 14, and demonstrated anti-inflammatory activity at a concentration of 10 mg mL-1 . In the skin microbiota of human volunteers, the extract inhibited Cutibacterium acnes and the Malassezia genus. Shortly, postbiotics were successfully produced using sugarcane straw, and showed bioactive properties that potentiate their use in cosmetic/skincare products.
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Affiliation(s)
- Marco Duarte
- CBQF - Centro de Biotecnologia e Química Fina - Laboratório Associado, Escola Superior de Biotecnologia, Universidade Católica Portuguesa, Porto, Portugal
| | - Maria João Carvalho
- CBQF - Centro de Biotecnologia e Química Fina - Laboratório Associado, Escola Superior de Biotecnologia, Universidade Católica Portuguesa, Porto, Portugal
| | - Nelson Mota de Carvalho
- CBQF - Centro de Biotecnologia e Química Fina - Laboratório Associado, Escola Superior de Biotecnologia, Universidade Católica Portuguesa, Porto, Portugal
| | - João Azevedo-Silva
- CBQF - Centro de Biotecnologia e Química Fina - Laboratório Associado, Escola Superior de Biotecnologia, Universidade Católica Portuguesa, Porto, Portugal
| | - Adélia Mendes
- CBQF - Centro de Biotecnologia e Química Fina - Laboratório Associado, Escola Superior de Biotecnologia, Universidade Católica Portuguesa, Porto, Portugal
| | - Inês Pinto Ribeiro
- CBQF - Centro de Biotecnologia e Química Fina - Laboratório Associado, Escola Superior de Biotecnologia, Universidade Católica Portuguesa, Porto, Portugal
- Amyris Bio Products Portugal, Unipessoal Lda, Porto, Portugal
| | - João Carlos Fernandes
- CBQF - Centro de Biotecnologia e Química Fina - Laboratório Associado, Escola Superior de Biotecnologia, Universidade Católica Portuguesa, Porto, Portugal
| | - Ana L S Oliveira
- CBQF - Centro de Biotecnologia e Química Fina - Laboratório Associado, Escola Superior de Biotecnologia, Universidade Católica Portuguesa, Porto, Portugal
| | - Carla Oliveira
- CBQF - Centro de Biotecnologia e Química Fina - Laboratório Associado, Escola Superior de Biotecnologia, Universidade Católica Portuguesa, Porto, Portugal
| | - Manuela Pintado
- CBQF - Centro de Biotecnologia e Química Fina - Laboratório Associado, Escola Superior de Biotecnologia, Universidade Católica Portuguesa, Porto, Portugal
| | - Ana Amaro
- CBQF - Centro de Biotecnologia e Química Fina - Laboratório Associado, Escola Superior de Biotecnologia, Universidade Católica Portuguesa, Porto, Portugal
| | - Ana Raquel Madureira
- CBQF - Centro de Biotecnologia e Química Fina - Laboratório Associado, Escola Superior de Biotecnologia, Universidade Católica Portuguesa, Porto, Portugal
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Chang ZY, Chen CW, Tsai MJ, Chen CC, Alshetaili A, Hsiao YT, Fang JY. The elucidation of structure-activity and structure-permeation relationships for the cutaneous delivery of phytosterols to attenuate psoriasiform inflammation. Int Immunopharmacol 2023; 119:110202. [PMID: 37075671 DOI: 10.1016/j.intimp.2023.110202] [Citation(s) in RCA: 4] [Impact Index Per Article: 4.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 02/02/2023] [Revised: 04/09/2023] [Accepted: 04/12/2023] [Indexed: 04/21/2023]
Abstract
Phytosterols have been reported to exert anti-inflammatory activity. This study aimed to investigate the capacity of campesterol, β-sitosterol, and stigmasterol on the mitigation of psoriasiform inflammation. We also tried to establish structure-activity and structure-permeation relationships for these plant sterols. To support this study, we first approached the in silico data of the physicochemical properties and the molecular docking of phytosterols with stratum corneum (SC) lipids. The anti-inflammatory activity of the phytosterols was explored in the activated keratinocytes and macrophages. Using the activated keratinocyte model, a significant inhibition of IL-6 and CXCL8 overexpression by phytosterols was detected. A comparable inhibition level was found for the three phytosterols tested. The macrophage-based study showed that the anti-IL-6 and anti-CXCL8 activities of campesterol were greater than those of the other compounds, which indicated that a phytosterol structure without a double bond on C22 and with methyl moiety on C24 was more effective. The conditioned medium of phytosterol-treated macrophages decreased STAT3 phosphorylation in the keratinocytes, suggesting the inhibition of keratinocyte hyperproliferation. β-sitosterol was the penetrant with the highest pig skin absorption (0.33 nmol/mg), followed by campesterol (0.21 nmol/mg) and stigmasterol (0.16 nmol/mg). The therapeutic index (TI) is a parameter measured by multiplying the cytokine/chemokine suppression percentage with skin absorption for anticipating the anti-inflammatory activity after topical delivery. β-sitosterol is a potential candidate for treating psoriatic inflammation due to having the greatest TI value. In this study, β-sitosterol attenuated epidermal hyperplasia and immune cell infiltration in the psoriasis-like mouse model. The psoriasiform epidermis thickness could be reduced from 92.4 to 63.8 μm by the topical use of β-sitosterol, with a downregulation of IL-6, TNF-α, and CXCL1. The skin tolerance study manifested that the reference drug betamethasone but not β-sitosterol could generate barrier dysfunction. β-sitosterol possessed anti-inflammatory activity and facile skin transport, showing the potential for development as an anti-psoriatic agent.
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Affiliation(s)
- Zi-Yu Chang
- Department of Traditional Chinese Medicine, Chang Gung Memorial Hospital, Keelung, Taiwan
| | - Chun-Wei Chen
- Department of Traditional Chinese Medicine, Chang Gung Memorial Hospital, Keelung, Taiwan
| | - Ming-Jun Tsai
- Department of Neurology, China Medical University Hospital, Taichung, Taiwan; School of Medicine, College of Medicine, China Medical University, Taichung, Taiwan; Department of Neurology, An-Nan Hospital, China Medical University, Tainan, Taiwan
| | - Chin-Chang Chen
- Department of Anatomy, School of Medicine, China Medical University, Taichung, Taiwan
| | - Abdullah Alshetaili
- Department of Pharmaceutics, College of Pharmacy, Prince Sattam Bin Abdulaziz University, Al Kharj, Saudi Arabia
| | - Yu-Tai Hsiao
- Pharmaceutics Laboratory, Graduate Institute of Natural Products, Chang Gung University, Kweishan, Taoyuan, Taiwan
| | - Jia-You Fang
- Pharmaceutics Laboratory, Graduate Institute of Natural Products, Chang Gung University, Kweishan, Taoyuan, Taiwan; Research Center for Food and Cosmetic Safety and Research Center for Chinese Herbal Medicine, Chang Gung University of Science and Technology, Kweishan, Taoyuan, Taiwan; Department of Anesthesiology, Chang Gung Memorial Hospital, Kweishan, Taoyuan, Taiwan.
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Synthesis of Bio-Based Polyester from Microbial Lipidic Residue Intended for Biomedical Application. Int J Mol Sci 2023; 24:ijms24054419. [PMID: 36901850 PMCID: PMC10003017 DOI: 10.3390/ijms24054419] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 01/04/2023] [Revised: 02/13/2023] [Accepted: 02/21/2023] [Indexed: 02/25/2023] Open
Abstract
In the last decade, selectively tuned bio-based polyesters have been increasingly used for their clinical potential in several biomedical applications, such as tissue engineering, wound healing, and drug delivery. With a biomedical application in mind, a flexible polyester was produced by melt polycondensation using the microbial oil residue collected after the distillation of β-farnesene (FDR) produced industrially by genetically modified yeast, Saccharomyces cerevisiae. After characterization, the polyester exhibited elongation up to 150% and presented Tg of -51.2 °C and Tm of 169.8 °C. In vitro degradation revealed a mass loss of about 87% after storage in PBS solution for 11 weeks under accelerated conditions (40 °C, RH = 75%). The water contact angle revealed a hydrophilic character, and biocompatibility with skin cells was demonstrated. 3D and 2D scaffolds were produced by salt-leaching, and a controlled release study at 30 °C was performed with Rhodamine B base (RBB, 3D) and curcumin (CRC, 2D), showing a diffusion-controlled mechanism with about 29.3% of RBB released after 48 h and 50.4% of CRC after 7 h. This polymer offers a sustainable and eco-friendly alternative for the potential use of the controlled release of active principles for wound dressing applications.
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Zhou Y, Cao F, Luo F, Lin Q. Octacosanol and health benefits: Biological functions and mechanisms of action. FOOD BIOSCI 2022. [DOI: 10.1016/j.fbio.2022.101632] [Citation(s) in RCA: 2] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 01/04/2023]
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