In Vitro Anti-Photoaging and Skin Protective Effects of Licania macrocarpa Cuatrec Methanol Extract

Comparison of five retinoids for anti-photoaging therapy: Evaluation of anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidative activities in vitro and therapeutic efficacy in vivo

Over the past decades, increasing evidences have demonstrated that five retinoids, including retinol (ROL), retinol acetate (RAc), retinol propionate (RP), retinol palmitate (RPalm), and hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR), can be potential therapeutic agents for skin photoaging. However, therapeutic efficacies and biosafety have never been compared to these compounds. This study aimed to determine the optimal retinoid type(s) for anti-photoaging therapy both in vitro and in vivo. Our data demonstrated that four retinoids (RPalm, RP, HPR and ROL) but not RAc were effective for anti-photoaging treatment at 5 μg/mL in vitro, with action mechanisms associated with antioxidative, anti-inflammatory and anti-skin ECM degradation activities. Notably, both RPalm and RP appeared superior to HPR and ROL for those activities. Importantly, both RPalm and RP were shown to be optimal for anti-photoaging therapy when topically applied at 5 mg/kg in a UVB-induced mice model of photoaging, which is consistent with their high anti-photoaging activities in vitro. Additionally, topical application of these five retinoids showed satisfactory biosafety without causing significant apoptosis in animal organs, although RP application led to a slight decline in animal body weights. Collectively, these data have laid a good foundation for the next development of the clinical application of these retinoids for skin healthcare.

A Comprehensive Quality Analysis of Different Colors of Medicinal and Edible Honeysuckle

Honeysuckle (the dried flower bud or opening flower of Lonicera japonica Thunb.), a medicinal and edible substance, has is greatly popular among consumers for its remarkable health effects, such as antioxidant, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory effects. However, due to the influences of processing methods, storage conditions, and other factors, honeysuckles show different colors which can directly reflect the quality and the price on the market. In order to comprehensively compare the quality of different colors, 55 batches of honeysuckle samples were collected and analyzed. Their color parameters, chlorophyll content (chl), total phenol content (TPC), total flavonoid content (TFC), antioxidant activity (AA), main active compounds, and metabolites were measured. As a result, the initial green-white (GW) samples, a kind of highest-quality honeysuckle, had the smallest a* value, largest h*, chl, TPC, TFC, and AA values, and highest content of chlorogenic acid and cynaroside. There was a significant difference between GW samples and a series of discolored samples. As the color darkened or lightened, the quality gradually decreased. The yellow-brown (YB) samples were of the worst quality and were no longer available for clinical and health purposes. A series of differential metabolites, such as quercetin-7-O-glucoside and secologanoside, could be used as important references to evaluate the quality of differently colored samples. The metabolic profile of honeysuckle provided new insights into the process of color change and laid a foundation for further honeysuckle quality control. The correlation results showed that the a* and h* values significantly affect the abovementioned quality indicators and the 10 main active compounds. In other words, the color difference could directly reflect the quality and clinical efficacy. Multiple regression analysis was carried out using combined L*, a*, and b* values to predict the quality of honeysuckle. This is the first time the quality of different color honeysuckle samples on the post-harvest link has been systematically compared and a demonstration of medicinal and edible substances with different colors has been provided.

Antiphotoaging and Skin-Protective Activities of Ardisia silvestris Ethanol Extract in Human Keratinocytes

Ardisia silvestris is a traditional medicinal herb used in Vietnam and several other countries. However, the skin-protective properties of A. silvestris ethanol extract (As-EE) have not been evaluated. Human keratinocytes form the outermost barrier of the skin and are the main target of ultraviolet (UV) radiation. UV exposure causes skin photoaging via the production of reactive oxygen species. Protection from photoaging is thus a key component of dermatological and cosmetic products. In this research, we found that As-EE can prevent UV-induced skin aging and cell death as well as enhance the barrier effect of the skin. First, the radical-scavenging ability of As-EE was checked using DPPH, ABTS, TPC, CUPRAC, and FRAP assays, and a 3-(4-5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2-5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide assay was used to examine cytotoxicity. Reporter gene assays were used to determine the doses that affect skin-barrier-related genes. A luciferase assay was used to identify possible transcription factors. The anti-photoaging mechanism of As-EE was investigated by determining correlated signaling pathways using immunoblotting analyses. As-EE had no harmful effects on HaCaT cells, according to our findings, and As-EE revealed moderate radical-scavenging ability. With high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) analysis, rutin was found to be one of the major components. In addition, As-EE enhanced the expression levels of hyaluronic acid synthase-1 and occludin in HaCaT cells. Moreover, As-EE dose-dependently up-regulated the production of occludin and transglutaminase-1 after suppression caused by UVB blocking the activator protein-1 signaling pathway, in particular, the extracellular response kinase and c-Jun N-terminal kinase. Our findings suggest that As-EE may have anti-photoaging effects by regulating mitogen-activated protein kinase, which is good news for the cosmetics and dermatology sectors.

Anti-Oxidative and Anti-Aging Effects of Ethanol Extract of the Officinal Breynia (Breynia vitis-idaea) In Vitro

The skin is the largest organ of the human body, and it is also the one most exposed to external environmental contaminants. The skin is the body's first defense against harmful environmental stimuli, including ultraviolet B (UVB) rays and hazardous chemicals. Therefore, proper care of the skin is required to prevent skin-related diseases and age-related symptoms. In this study, we analyzed anti-aging and anti-oxidative effects of Breynia vitis-idaea ethanol extract (Bv-EE) in human keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts. The Bv-EE had free radical scavenging activity and decreased the mRNA expression of MMPs and COX-2 in H₂O₂- or UVB-treated HaCaT cells. The Bv-EE also inhibited AP-1 transcriptional activity and phosphorylation of c-Jun N-terminal kinase, extracellular signal-regulated kinase, and mitogen-activated protein kinase 14 (p38), which are major AP-1 activators upon H₂O₂ or UVB exposure. Furthermore, the promoter activity and mRNA expression of collagen type I (Col1A1) increased in HDF cells treated with Bv-EE, and Bv-EE recovered the collagen mRNA expression decreased by H₂O₂ or UVB exposure. These results suggest that Bv-EE has anti-oxidative effects by inhibiting the AP-1 signaling pathway, and shows anti-aging effects by upregulating collagen synthesis.

The Potential of Purple Waxy Corn Cob (Zea mays L.) Extract Loaded-Sericin Hydrogel for Anti-Hyperpigmentation, UV Protection and Anti-Aging Properties as Topical Product Applications

Sericin-hydrogel formulations incorporating purple waxy corn (Zea mays L.) cob extract (PWCC) were developed as potential topical skin cosmetic products. Sericin has wound healing properties, protects against ultraviolet (UV) radiation, and exhibits anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidation, and anti-tyrosinase activities. PWCC is a rich source of anthocyanins with antioxidants, UV protective, anti-inflammatory, and collagen-enhancing activities. Six hydrogel formulations (S1-S6) were investigated for anti-melanogenesis on the B16F10 melanoma cell line and UV-protection on human keratinocytes (HaCaT) and anti-aging activities on normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDFs). The results showed that the hydrogel formulations enhanced the anthocyanin permeation through the skin. The S4 formulation indicated the highest inhibition of tyrosinase activity and reduced the melanin pigment, increased the cell viability of the UV-induced HaCaT cells, the inhibition of collagenase and elastase, and increased the collagen type I production without cytotoxicity. Therefore, the PWCC loaded-sericin hydrogels show a high potential as a novel anti-hyperpigmentation, UV protection, and anti-aging products for topical applications.

Protective Function of Malus baccata (L.) Borkh Methanol Extract against UVB/Hydrogen Peroxide-Induced Skin Aging via Inhibition of MAPK and NF-κB Signaling

Ultraviolet (UV) irradiation induces ROS production, which activates activator protein (AP)-1 and nuclear factor (NF)-κB signaling and downstream molecules, ultimately triggering the generation of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and degradation of collagen. The aim of this study was to investigate the protective effect of methanol extract from Malus baccata (L.) Borkh (Mb-ME) against aging. DPPH and ABTS assays showed that Mb-ME had a significant antioxidant capacity. Flow cytometry results indicated that Mb-ME attenuated UVB and H₂O₂-stimulated apoptosis and reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation. RT-PCR analysis in HaCaT and HDF cells suggested that Mb-ME treatment blocked the expression of MMPs, COX-2, IL-1β, IL-6, HYALs, and p53 while promoting the levels of TGM1, FLG, HASs, Sirt1, and Col1A1. Mechanically, Mb-ME inhibited the phosphorylation of MAP kinases and NF-κB signaling. Overall, these results strongly suggest that Mb-ME can be developed as an antiaging therapy.