4-n-Butylresorcinol-Based Linear and Graft Polymethacrylates for Arbutin and Vitamins Delivery by Micellar Systems

Exosomes based advancements for application in medical aesthetics

Beauty is an eternal pursuit of all people. Wound repair, anti-aging, inhibiting hyperpigmentation and hair loss are the main demands for medical aesthetics. At present, the repair and remodeling of human body shape and function in medical aesthetics are often achieved by injection of antioxidants, hyaluronic acid and botulinum toxin, stem cell therapy. However, there are some challenges, such as difficulty controlling the injection dose, abnormal local contour, increased foreign body sensation, and the risk of tumor occurrence and deformity induced by stem cell therapy. Exosomes are tiny vesicles secreted by cells, which are rich in proteins, nucleic acids and other bioactive molecules. They have the characteristics of low immunogenicity and strong tissue penetration, making them ideal for applications in medical aesthetics. However, their low yield, strong heterogeneity, and long-term preservation still hinder their application in medical aesthetics. In this review, we summarize the mechanism of action, administration methods, engineered production and preservation technologies for exosomes in medical aesthetics in recent years to further promote their research and industrialization in the field of medical aesthetics.

Micellar Carriers of Active Substances Based on Amphiphilic PEG/PDMS Heterograft Copolymers: Synthesis and Biological Evaluation of Safe Use on Skin

Amphiphilic copolymers containing polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) and polyethylene glycol methyl ether (MPEG) were obtained via an azide-alkyne cycloaddition reaction between alkyne-functionalized copolymer of MPEG methacrylate and azide-functionalized PDMS. “Click” reactions were carried out with an efficiency of 33–47% increasing grafting degrees. The grafted copolymers were able to carry out the micellization and encapsulation of active substances, such as vitamin C (VitC), ferulic acid (FA) and arginine (ARG) with drug loading content (DLC) in the range of 2–68% (VitC), and 51–89% (FA or ARG). In vitro release studies (phosphate buffer saline, PBS; pH = 7.4 or 5.5) demonstrated that the maximum release of active substances was mainly after 1–2 h. The permeability of released active substances through membrane mimicking skin evaluated by transdermal tests in Franz diffusion cells indicated slight diffusion into the solution (2–16%) and their remaining in the membrane. Studies on the selected carrier with FA showed no negative effect on cell viability, proliferation capacity or senescence, as well as cell apoptosis/necrosis differences or cell cycle interruption in comparison with control cells. These results indicated that the presented micellar systems are good candidates for carriers of cosmetic substances according to physicochemical characterization and biological studies.

PEG Graft Polymer Carriers of Antioxidants: In Vitro Evaluation for Transdermal Delivery

The in vitro biochemical evaluation of the applicability of polymers carrying active substances (micelles and conjugates) was carried out. Previously designed amphiphilic graft copolymers with retinol or 4-n-butylresorcinol functionalized polymethacrylate backbone and poly(ethylene glycol) (PEG) side chains that included Janus-type heterografted copolymers containing both PEG and poly(ε-caprolactone) (PCL) side chains were applied as micellar carriers. The polymer self-assemblies were convenient to encapsulate arbutin (ARB) as the selected active substances. Moreover, the conjugates of PEG graft copolymers with ferulic acid (FA) or lipoic acid (LA) were also investigated. The permeability of released active substances through a membrane mimicking skin was evaluated by conducting transdermal tests in Franz diffusion cells. The biological response to new carriers with active substances was tested across cell lines, including normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF), human epidermal keratinocyte (HaCaT), as well as cancer melanoma (Me45) and metastatic human melanoma (451-Lu), for comparison. These polymer systems were safe and non-cytotoxic at the tested concentrations for healthy skin cell lines according to the MTT test. Cytometric evaluation of cell cycles as well as cell death defined by Annexin-V apoptosis assays and senescence tests showed no significant changes under action of the delivery systems, as compared to the control cells. In vitro tests confirmed the biochemical potential of these antioxidant carriers as beneficial components in cosmetic products, especially applied in the form of masks and eye pads.

Micellar Carriers Based on Amphiphilic PEG/PCL Graft Copolymers for Delivery of Active Substances

Amphiphilic copolymers of alkyne functionalized 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate (AlHEMA) and poly(ethylene glycol) methyl ether methacrylate (MPEGMA) with graft or V-shaped graft topologies were synthesized. The functionalization of poly(ε-caprolactone) (PCL) with azide group enabled attachment to P(AlHEMA-co-MPEGMA) copolymers via a "click" alkyne-azide reaction. The introduction of PCL as a second side chain type in addition to PEG resulted in heterografted copolymers with modified properties such as biodegradability. "Click" reactions were carried out with efficiencies between 17-70% or 32-50% (for lower molecular weight PCL, 4000 g/mol, or higher molecular weight PCL, 9000 g/mol, respectively) depending on the PEG grafting density. The graft copolymers were self-assembled into micellar superstructures with the ability to encapsulate active substances, such as vitamin C (VitC), arbutin (ARB) or 4-n-butylresorcinol (4nBRE). Drug loading contents (DLC) were obtained in the range of 5-55% (VitC), 39-91% (ARB) and 42-98% (4nBRE). In vitro studies carried out in a phosphate buffer saline (PBS) solution (at pH 7.4 or 5.5) gave the maximum release levels of active substances after 10-240 min depending on the polymer system. Permeation tests in Franz chambers indicated that the bioactive substances after release by micellar systems penetrated through the artificial skin membrane in small amounts, and a majority of the bioactive substances remained inside the membrane, which is satisfactory for most cosmetic applications.

PEG Grafted Polymethacrylates Bearing Antioxidants as a New Class of Polymer Conjugates for Application in Cosmetology

The amphiphilic copolymers of poly(ethylene glycol) methyl ether methacrylate (MPEGMA) and alkyne functionalized 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate (AlHEMA) were synthesized by controlled atom transfer radical polymerization (ATRP). The reactions were carried out using the standard ATRP initiator ethyl α-bromoisobutyrate, (EiBBr) and the “bio”initiator bromoester derivative of 4-n-butylresorcinol (4nBREBr₂). Two substances with antioxidant activity used in cosmetology, (±)-α-lipoic acid (LA) and ferulic acid (FA), were subjected to esterification reactions to introduce azide groups. The “click” reactions between the alkyne contained copolymers and functionalized acids (LA-N₃, FA-N₃) were performed to obtain polymer-antioxidant conjugates (P((HEMA-click-FA)-co-MPEGMA) and P((HEMA-click-LA)-co-MPEGMA)). The conjugation was performed with an efficiency of 20–75%. In vitro experiments in a phosphate buffer saline (PBS) solution at neutral conditions demonstrated that the sufficient release was reached after 2.5 h for FA and 1 h for LA. The rapid release kinetics as well as the polymer carriers, which were applied to regulate the delivery of antioxidant substances, are beneficial in cosmetology.