The influence of skill and task complexity on perception of nested affordances

Embodied planning in climbing: how pre-planning informs motor execution

Introduction

The aim of the study is to address embodied planning in climbing. Embodied planning was conceptualized as the interaction between perceptual-cognitive pre-planning and motor execution.

Methods

In an experimental study, 18 climbers were asked to pre-plan a climbing route and to perform the route afterward. During pre-planning, the visual search pattern of climbers was captured using a portable eye tracker. After previewing, they were invited to climb the wall.

Results

Results revealed that holds looked at during pre-planning were used twice as much during route execution than those not looked at. The duration of fixations was longer for holds used than those not used during route execution. The experience of climbers (training years) correlated with visual strategies and climbing performance, such that experienced participants climbed faster and fixated at the holds not used for a shorter time.

Discussion

The visual behaviors of climbers were influenced by their past sensorimotor experiences during route previewing, impacting subsequent climbing performance.

A systematic review of perception of affordances for the person-plus-object system

Human behavior often involves the use of an object held by or attached to the body, which modifies the individual's action capabilities. Moreover, most everyday behaviors consist of sets of behaviors that are nested over multiple spatial and temporal scales, which require perceiving and acting on nested affordances for the person-plus-object system. This systematic review investigates how individuals attune to information about affordances involving the person-plus-object system and how they (re)calibrate their actions to relevant information. We analyzed 71 articles-34 on attunement and 37 on (re)calibration with healthy participants-that experimentally investigated the processes involved in the perception of affordances for the person-plus-object system (including attunement, calibration, and recalibration). With respect to attunement, objects attached to the body create a multiplicity of affordances for the person-plus-object system, and individuals learned (1) to detect information about affordances of (and for) the person-plus-object system in a task and (2) to choose whether, when, and how to exploit those affordances to perform that task. Concerning (re)calibration, individuals were able (1) to quickly scale their actions in relation to the (changed) action capabilities of the person-plus-object system and (2) to perceive multiple functionally equivalent ways to exploit the affordances of that system, and these abilities improved with practice. Perceiving affordances for the person-plus-object system involves learning to detect the information about such affordances (attunement) and the scaling of behaviors to such information (calibration). These processes imply a general ability to incorporate an object attached to the body into an integrated person-plus-object system.

The Ecological Dynamics Framework: An Innovative Approach to Performance in Extreme Environments: A Narrative Review

(1) Background: Uncertainty in extreme sports performance environments, such as climbing, provides considerable psycho-emotional and physiological demands, notably due to the many different environments in which climbing can be performed. This variety of environments, conditions of practice and engagement would challenge the acquisition of perceptual-motor skills; (2) Methods: To better understand how perceptual-motor skills are controlled and acquired in climbing, we proposed a narrative review anchored in the ecological dynamics theoretical framework and showed how this theoretical framework would support a nonlinear pedagogy to skill acquisition and to design safe learning and training situations that are representative of extreme performance contexts; (3) Results: We explained three theoretical pillars and we provide examples for design intervention following nonlinear pedagogy, notably (i) to set a constraint-led approach (in particular task constraint), (ii) to implement conditions of practice (constant vs. variable, imposed vs. self-controlled), (iii) to promote adaptive and creative behavioral variability during practice; (4) Conclusions: The challenge for the extreme sport practitioner is how to set up conditions of practice for efficient exploration in a manner that manages the dangers of performing in uncertain environments. Representing uncertainty within the relative safety of indoor settings may be one approach for preparing climbers for performance in extreme environments.