Bernasqué A, Faure C, Rezvani H, Cario M. A new eco-friendly and water-resistant sunscreen agent: Lecithin-based multilamellar liposomes.
J Cosmet Dermatol 2024;
23:918-925. [PMID:
37947116 DOI:
10.1111/jocd.16072]
[Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 06/22/2023] [Revised: 09/28/2023] [Accepted: 10/27/2023] [Indexed: 11/12/2023]
Abstract
BACKGROUND
UV skin exposure is an important matter of public health, as the worldwide rising prevalence of skin cancers indicates. However, a wide majority of commercially available sunscreens are responsible for ocean ecosystem damages such as coral reef degradation and phytoplankton mortality.
AIMS
To answer the urge for new eco-friendly UV filters, we studied the use of lecithin-based multilamellar liposomes (MLLs) of controlled size and elasticity as a bio-sourced and biodegradable alternative to classic sunscreens. These parameters control allows different skin layers targeting.
METHODS
The performance of two different MLLs compositions and a commercially available SPF50+ water-resistant liposomal sunscreen was compared on skin explants. SC-MLLs target the stratum corneum and Epi-MLLs the whole epidermis. Preparations were applied prior to skin irradiation. Their efficiencies were evaluated histologically (hematoxylin and eosin staining plus cyclobutane pyrimidine dimer [CPD] immunostaining) and by skin barrier quality assessment (trans-epithelial electrical resistance). Adhesiveness to the skin was also investigated.
RESULTS
Altogether, ex vivo results indicate MLLs offer a solar protection as effective as a SPF50+ water-resistant liposomal sunscreen but with a better skin adhesiveness and an improved skin barrier function.
CONCLUSION
Lecithin-based MLLs of controlled physicochemical parameters can be used as a new eco-friendly and water-resistant agent for solar protection. The stratum corneum targeted action of SC-MLLs appears to be more interesting, as SC-MLLs exhibit an overall better performance than Epi-MLLs at a lower cost. The skin barrier improvement showcased could be of interest to people suffering from dry skin or skin barrier impairment related disease.
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